Mt. Lindsey (14,042’)
June 7, 2009
Route: North Face (ascent), North Couloir (descent) from Lily Lake TH
Round Trip: 8 miles
Elevation Gain: 4,200’
Caroline(USAKeller), Fritz(killingcokes), Rob(lodgling), KeithK

Words and pictures cannot replace the experience… get out there and DO it!

And so it begins… At least that’s what I wrote last year as I began my very modest and extremely disappointing 2008 hiking season. A series of adversities dampened the summer, and the year only served as a reminder that sometimes things aren’t what you want them to be, but that you have to work forward and keep striving for improvement. With 2009 off to a very solid start, summiting a 14er in each month this year to date, things are definitely moving in a positive direction. Plans to climb the Blanca Group on Memorial Day weekend were summarily washed down the proverbial drain, leaving me lamenting a lost three day weekend, and still without a new summit to place a check next to. Mt. Antero emerged as the next destination; why not climb that heap of minerals before the summer hoards turn it into a perpetually permanent cloud of dust? Seemed like a good idea, until my intended partner came down with the flu and had to cancel. Now what? Not ten minutes later, Caroline comes to the rescue! Well, she proposes a plan B, dependant on whether or not other plans work out. Fair enough, we’ll just see how it goes. At noon, I am discouraged, as it seems like I’ll be on my own for Sunday. Three hours later, another corner is turned, and it appears that the Sangre de Cristo Range is going to be a reality after all! The excitement of the Sangres notwithstanding, I would also meet the “legendary” USAKeller for the first time, after two years of commenting on her trip reports, and admiring her commitment and perseverance through her 14er quest. How can this not be a killer way to start the summer?

Wind! Howling, gusting, pelting wind! As we prepare our sleeping pads for at least an attempt to rest through the night under a brilliant full moon, a light approaches and a voice cuts through the gale. “Keith?” Fritz inquires, as he strolls up to the truck. It was great to meet Fritz, whom I’ve only known from trip reports, usually involving terrifying appearing ski descents off of mountains that I only hope to climb safely when they’re dry. Rob would soon join us, and we chatted for a short while, set a plan for the all too early wake up time, and settled in to charge the batteries.

After a restless but reasonably comfortable night, 4:30 a.m. arrived far too early, as it normally does during these adventures into the wilds of Colorado’s backcountry. We stirred ourselves from warm bags and emerged out into the relentless breeze to begin organizing gear, consume some calories and gather motivation to begin moving. Some Led Zeppelin in Fritz’s truck warmed us to the task, and we set out for an unseen destination, well hidden by the Iron Nipple and “Huerfano Peak”.

Blanca Peak dominates the view up valley…
 

The group breaks out of the trees for a short time, with the views beginning to pop…

The river crossing proved to be just deep enough to be problematic, and after a brief workout involving small boulder tossing, Rob, Fritz and Caroline finally elected to remove footwear and just gut it out. My Gore-Tex boots and gaiters allowed me to work across the partially submerged log crossing with only a quick submerged step to risk.

A look back at my route across the river…


The trail stays in the trees below a large boulder field, but somehow we found ourselves too high and negotiating the talus. After a short discussion, we dropped back down and resumed the hike on increasingly more present snow, eventually angling left along the edge of the boulders and beginning to grunt up the steep slope on hard snow.

A cliff face foreshadows the spectacular ruggedness of what’s to come…

Blanca Peak and Ellingwood Point begin to absorb the day’s first sun hit…

I’ve been impressed every time I’ve hiked with ski-toting partners this year. Watching Caroline struggle with her skis and boots catching every tree they could possibly find, as well as the fact that we could not get them to ride straight on her pack gave me a very real appreciation of her commitment to this sport. Fritz tried to help her out by adjusting her pack, but her skis just did not want to cooperate. I am guessing it’s a pack adjustment that will need to be made, back in the comforts of suburbia.

Caroline perseveres in spite of her skis arguing at every possible opportunity…

A glance back down the valley tells us that the sun is shining somewhere…

As we began to climb, the choices became limited. Either try to scamper straight up talus, or climb steep, hard snow banks through the trees. Rob led a line up the snow, and it became steeper as we went. Eventually reaching a longer snowfield, I found that I could not even kick steps in the snow with my mountaineering boots, and paused to consider the options. Caroline used her whippet to chip some steps, and her and Fritz worked right up the slope, obviously more comfortable with the snow that I was. A lone hiker, John, had caught up to us, and decided to strap on his crampons, and I followed suit.

Beginning the steep grunt up hard snow…(photo courtesy USAKeller)
 

Regrouping at the edge of another boulder field, I took off the spikes, glad that I took the time to put them on. In hindsight, switching from poles to axe might have been sufficient, but hey, I’m carrying the damn things, might as well practice putting them on and off! An easy scamper across the talus brought us to more trees, but the sound of water rushing ahead spurred us on, and we quickly dropped into the creek bed, knowing that tree line was quick to approach, and good solid snow would lead us upstream and into the basin ahead.

Fritz and Caroline walk the easy snow, as another magnificent cliff face dominates the view for a few steps…

As the gulley bends, the splendor of the Blanca group begins to take shape…

Finally feeling sunlight for the first time, we stopped for a needed break to apply sunscreen, eat, hydrate, and get ready for the easy approach through the basin. The wind would begin to make its presence felt again, after the calm we enjoyed on the journey through the valley. Watching the clouds fly across the sky, we knew that it would be breezy ahead. Continuous snow provided steady hiking, and we moved higher and higher into the basin, aiming for the summer trail, visible on the mini-ridge ahead.

Hiking into the basin, our first look at Mt. Lindsey. The Iron Nipple screams for attention…



The jagged ridge cutting through the basin east of Blanca’s Gash Ridge…

These little guys aren’t waiting for summer!
 

Aiming for the summer trail, just left of center…
 

I had a feeling of excitement as the real climbing began, first up to the mini-ridge, then on to the saddle between Mt. Lindsey and the Iron Nipple. We crossed a bit of snow, then hopped up the talus, trying to follow the snow covered standard trail, but just taking the path of least resistance.

Caroline carrying all that weight up a mountain...
 

Fritz is likely pointing out some strip of snow he sees on the Blanca Group…

Such an impressive wall!
 

Caroline and Fritz finishing off the final stretch to the first saddle…

A glance over the shoulder reveals more Sangrelicious eye candy…

And of course, our target is getting closer…
 

We reached the main saddle, and took another breather. A party of 2 was clearly visible working their way up the Northwest couloir, as was the solo hiker we had met earlier. The skiers began to switch from hiking shoes to ski boots, and I just contemplated the looks of this enormous cone in front of me. It looked impossibly steep, which I knew was an illusion, but still… As I watched, the solo climber began coming back down, which had that nervous voice in my head questioning my commitment to this endeavor. The party of two were also milling about at the top of the main couloir, looking unsure of the route. Hmm, the wind? Too icy? Steep? Doubts began to dominate my thought processes, and I voiced my nervousness. Rob had already begun the traverse, and Caroline and Fritz were nearly geared up and ready. Caroline reassured me with very practical advice, we would work across the traverse to the base of the couloir, and if I was feeling less than confident, we’d go down. I knew in the back of my mind that the climbing wasn’t scaring me, it was getting down! Fritz was completely confident that the North Couloir would allow reasonably easy down climbing, and that I’d be fine. I was very grateful to be in such good company. I felt completely validated by these three climbing partners; I had no reservations about trusting them.

Caroline begins to traverse…
 

I hate side hill traverses like this, but it wasn’t all that bad. Crampons provide a huge boost in confidence, and I felt good about my axe technique, which Fritz even commented on. The solo climber, John, met us, and explained that it just became too steep for his comfort. Fair enough, I was no longer nervous, just anxious, because I knew that I was capable. As we reached the base of the climb, Rob exclaimed that the snow was “money”, and my spirits continued to improve. Caroline asked if I was good, and I didn’t hesitate to affirm. It was time to go up! Fritz would follow me, keeping an eye on me and as a last resort assist if an arrest were to become necessary.

Rob and Caroline, about half way up…
 

A great staircase kept me assured and positive…


Believe it or not, I was having fun…(photo courtesy USAKeller)


The steepest section, near the top…
 

Caroline and Fritz encouraged me the entire time, telling me that I was doing great, and I felt so good to be in their company. I knew I could do this; it was a matter of focus and concentration. During the entire climb to the summit, I did not look down, just kept my eyes ahead and up. I regret that I didn’t take more pictures, but I was definitely staying in the “zone” as much as I could. As we reached the top, the continuous line of snow ahead was promising. The other party had chosen to head straight up to the ridgeline, which looked a bit steep and rocky, but I could see why they would be cautious about continuing on our line. The first obstacle was a step around a large rock, then into a steep, unforgiving gulley. Rob ventured out, testing every step, and reported that the first 10 feet or so on the northeast aspect was a bit sugary, but then the snow improved considerably after that. One at a time, we traversed without incident. Following the most obvious path, up we went, eventually turning right to reach the ridge. One rock outcrop created a narrow ledge that had to be negotiated, and Fritz guided me in using my pick to anchor above the rock and step my way around it. I felt like I was tackling this increased difficulty with flying colors, but was still relieved when the terrain began to mellow near the top. Reaching the summit ridge should have been a triumph, but the wind immediately erased my elation. We had been sheltered for the past hour, and now the gale was hitting with full force!

More steep snow…


Fritz and I coming up the slope… (photo courtesy USAKeller)


The ridge crawl to the summit…
 

It was at this point that I felt the least comfortable; the wind was absolutely howling, and I felt like I could easily lose my balance. I was very surprised at how narrow the ridge was, and it was not going to be an easy stroll to the summit. I could see a lone climber on the summit, which I assumed must be the two climbers we had seen above us on the ridge. Fritz told me “it’s just walking”, and I realized what he was saying, but my instincts still had me crouching to get my axe in the snow as much as possible. I felt like a duck at times, but just kept my balance and planted every step with deliberate focus. Rob and Caroline topped out, and I had that familiar feeling of success mixed with relief. Nothing else in my day to day life requires such single mindedness, and the mental energy required to climb these big mountains, especially this time of year, is something that I’m still developing. This was definitely an important step forward for me.

Looking south at Culebra, somewhere in there…
 

The impressive twelvers, the Spanish Peaks…
 

Crestonetacular!


Little Bear, Blanca, Ellingwood, and Fritz’s skis…
 

Fritz and I on the summit…(photo courtesy USAKeller)

Caroline stands tall on her skis with the glorious Blanca Group behind her…(photo courtesy USAKeller)

None of us were overly thrilled to be pelted by the wind, but Fritz found a bit of shadow a few feet down from the summit, and we sat and prepared for the descent. John was on the summit with us, having glissaded down into the basin, then traversing to the North Couloir, and climbing it! Wow, that’s some energy, I thought. He was on vacation from Seattle, so I could see that he really wanted to get the most out of it. Since the others were on skis, he would lead me back down his ascent route, assuring that it was not steep and would even be glissadeable. Geared up and ready, Rob began the ski down into the northernmost branch of the couloir, while we took some summit shots of Fritz and Caroline on their skis. A thumbs up, and it was show time. I watched Caroline glide away, and then began my own trek down to catch John and begin plunge stepping the relatively steep upper slope of the couloir. Within a hundred feet or so, we were sitting down, and it was time for a ride! Unfortunately, my camera had begun complaining about its batteries on the summit, and I didn’t take any pictures during the glissade, or even looking back up the couloir. It’s too bad, because it was essentially a continuous glissade all the way to our exit point, roughly a thousand feet in total! Unfortunately, we then realized the reality of needing to climb back out of the basin. Regrouping on a scree bench, we began the arduous task ahead.

Looking at the upper section of the couloir; Rob and Fritz skiing, with John and I left of center beginning our glissade…(photo courtesy USAKeller)

The slog back to the saddle from the basin…
 

Always smiling, even after a broken ski pole!


In retrospect, it wasn’t that hard…


Fritz and Rob chill out of the wind…


A look back at our traverse; the North Couloir can barely be made out far off left of center…

California Peak to the northwest…


After a break on the saddle, it was time to get moving and get home. The ski trio headed up the ridge to find a good line and I found a trail down dry scree to the lower saddle. As soon as I reached the saddle, Fritz and Caroline came skiing down, apparently not able to find snow to their liking higher up.

This is so fun to watch!


Screeching to a halt!


Lower down the ridge, they found their line…


I stopped to chat with this little guy…


As my skiing friends quickly disappeared down the basin, I continued hiking, finally reaching the snow fields, and almost jogging all the way down the basin until I finally caught the group on dry ground next to the tributary stream. We were all tired and ready to get out, but the last mile or so was sure to be a pain, as the trail was barely discernible for the most part, and deep snow drifts would force plenty of postholing and bushwhacking. Fritz and Rob said good bye, as they needed to get to the truck as quickly as possible, and Caroline and I rested for a short while longer, before following suit. We just followed the edge of the gulley all the way down, essentially, until veering north and finally finding the trail. Fortunately, the track of those before us was quite evident, and we linked tracked snow patches together until eventually reaching the clear trail for good.
It had been a brilliant day all around, climbing a difficult peak for me, and Caroline skiing a big line in the Sangres. I was tired, but unbelievably happy at the same time. Fritz and Rob were great to climb with, and the group as a whole seemed to have a really good vibe. Caroline was terrific on the whole trip, and it was a real treat to finally meet and hike with USAKeller! What a fantastic start to 2009!

A final look at the Huerfano Valley; beautiful, remote and rugged. God bless Colorado’s backcountry!

Fritz's Great TR: http://makingturns.com/

Caroline's Excellent TR:  http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=6115

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