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Approaching Tour Rouge in the Mont Blanc Massif
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In the decade after graduating college, I was obsessed with rock climbing and mountaineering.  Lately I have contented myself with stiff dayhikes in the northeast.  Scroll down to see some highlights from peaks and crags. 

Mont Blanc Massif, French Alps:
In summer 2001, Jim Voss and I climbed about 20 alpine rock routes above Chamonix over 6 weeks.  We spent 1 week in the Envers des Aiguilles Hut, 3 nights in the Argentiere Hut, 3 nights in the Cosmiques Hut, 2 nights camped on the Nantillons Glacier, and the rest camped in the valley. 

Sam Page, "Six Weeks in Chamonix", California Mountaineering Club Newsletter, Vol. 13, No. 1 (January 2002).

Envers des Aiguilles Hut
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Photo by Sam Page (July 2001)

Relaxing at the Envers des Aiguilles Hut
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Le Marchand de Sable, Tour Rouge
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That's me at a hanging belay after some challenging climbing.

Me on the Argentiere Glacier
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The Argentiere Hut is barely visible directly left of my shoulder on the moraine.

The Cosmiques Hut (in center)
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Photo by Sam Page (July 2001)

Me on route to the Cosmiques Hut
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The prominent peaks in the background are Grandes Jorasses (L) and Dent du Geant (R)

My notable climbs in the Mont Blanc Massif:
 

Cordier Pillar, Grand Charmoz, TD 5+ A1, 600m (bailed 1-2 pitches from top)

 

Bienvenue au Georges V, First Pointe des Nantillons, TD+ 6a+, 350m

 

Le Marchand de Sable, Tour Rouge, TD+ 6a A1, 280m (skipped last pitch of snowy 3)

 

Voie Marilene on Pointe Lachenal (TD 5+ A1, 250m)

 

Southeast Spur, Le Minaret, TD 5+ A1, 250 m (bailed 1 pitch from top)

 

Vaucher Route, Gendarme 3068, TD, 6a, 400m

 

South Ridge, Chapelle de la Gliere, D 5b, 400m

 

Voie de Galbert, Southwest Face, Tour des Crochues, D- 5b, 200m

 

Le Piege, Tour Verte, TD+ 6a A1, 200m

 

UCPA, First Pointe des Nantillons, TD- 5, 320m (bailed 1 pitch from top)

 

Eperon Nord, North side of Papillon Ridge, D+ 5, 300m

 

Genepi Ridge, Aiguille de Genepi, 5, 250m

 

Couzy Route, Aiguille L'M, TD 5, 200m

 

East Ridge, Pyramide du Tacul, D 4, 250m

 
California:
I lived in Mammoth Lakes in 1994, and in Riverside from 1999-2004.  During that time I climbed all over California.  
 

Me hiking toward Temple Crag (California Sierras)
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Photo by Steve Aho (May 2001)

The Moon Goddess Arete on Temple Crag
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Photo by Steve Aho (May 2001)

Sam Page, "Trip Report: Temple Crag, Moon Goddess Arete", California Mountaineering Club Newsletter, Vol. 12, No. 3 (July 2001).

Sam Page, "Trip Report: Middle Palisade", California Mountaineering Club Newsletter, Vol. 13, No. 3 (July 2002).

My notable climbs in California include:
 
Fairview Dome, Regular Route (5.9, 9 pitches) with Ed Lupyak (summer 2002) and Rob Stockstill (summer 1994).
 
Cathedral Peak, Southeast Buttress (5.6, 6 pitches) with Ed Lupyak (summer 2002) and Steve Offerman and Kelly ? (summer 1994).
 
Mt. Shasta, Whitney Glacier Route with California Mountaineering Club (June 2002).
 
Split Mt., North Slope (steep snow) with California Mountaineering Club (June 2002).
 
Middle Palisade, Northeast Face (4th class, steep snow) with California Mountaineering Club (May 2002).  I neglected final summit pitch.
 
Tahquitz, Whodunit (5.9, 6 pitches) with Ian Gillespie (spring 2002?) and Steve Aho (spring 2001).  I also climbed over a dozen other routes at Tahquitz.
 
Orange Flake, Joshua Tree (5.8, 4 pitches) with Ian Gillespie (spring 2002?) and Greg Smith (spring 2001).
 
Temple Crag, Moon Goddess Arete (IV, 5.8 var.) with Steve Aho, Jack Cronk, and Jan Lorenzen from camp below route (May 2001).  We neglected summit.
 
Lone Pine Peak, North Ridge (III, 5.7 var.) with Scott Sederstrom in 14 hours car-to-car (May 2000).
 
Royal Arches Route, Yosemite (5.7, A0, 15 pitches) with Jim Voss (May 2000).
 
Braille Book, Yosemite Valley (5.8, 5 pitches) with Jim Voss (May 2000).
 
Nutcracker, Yosemite Valley (5.8, 6 pitches) with Jim Voss (May 2000).
 
Mt. Hubris, Cosmic Wall, in Castle Crags (5.6, 6 pitches) with Jim Voss (summer 2000).  Gave me sciatica!
 
Mt. Dana, Dana Couloir (Class 4 ice) with Scott Sederstrom (fall 1994)
 
Mt. Morgan North, Nevahbe Ridge (3rd/4th class) with Scott Sederstrom and Mark Shelp (fall 1994).
 
Mt. Whitney, Mountaineer's Route (5th class var.) with Christian Szautner from bivy at Icefloe Lake (Summer 1994).
 
Bear Creek Spire, Northeast Ridge (5th class) with Steve Offerman and Jimmy Kale in 1 day (summer 1994). 
 
Carson Peak, Central Rib of North Face (4th+ class) with Brian Ketron and Steve Offerman (summer 1994).
 
Mt. Lyell and Mt. McClure (3rd class, steep snow) with Jimmy Kale (late spring 1994). 
 
Mt. Ritter and Mt. Banner (3rd class, steep snow) solo from bivy at col (spring 1994). 

Me approaching the steep snow on Split Mt.
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Red Rocks, Nevada:
In spring 2000, 2001, and 2002, I made about a dozen weekend climbing trips to Red Rocks.  

Near the top of "Crimson Chrysalis"
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Left: Ginger Cracks; Right: Crimson Chrysalis.
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Photo by Ian Gillespie

My notable climbs at Red Rocks include:
 
Crimson Chrysalis (5.9, 9 pitches) with Ian Gillespie (spring 2002) and Jim Voss (spring 2000).
 
Johnny Vegas to Solar Slab (5.7, 10 pitches) with Ed Lupyak (spring 2002) and Ian Gillespie (spring 2001).
 
Beulah's Book to Sunflower (5.9, 9 pitches) with Jim Voss and his friend Matt (spring 2000).
 
Solar Slab Gully to Solar Slab to top (5.6, ~15 pitches) with Jim Voss (spring 2000).  We made the mistake of descending the wrong gully.
 
Frogland (5.8, 7 pitches) with Ed Lupyak (spring 2002), Ian Gillespie (spring 2001), and Jim Voss (spring 2000).
 
Ginger Cracks (5.9, 7 pitches) with Jim Voss (spring 2000).
 
Refried Brains (5.9, 6 pitches) with Jim Voss (spring 2000).
 
The Gobbler (5.10-, 4 pitches) with Jim Voss (spring 2000). 
 
Olive Oil (5.7, 6 pitches) with Ian Gillespie (spring 2001) and Jim Voss (spring 2000).  Crowded! 
 
Tunnel Vision (5.7, 6 pitches) with Jim Voss (spring 2000).
 
Group Therapy (5.7, 6 pitches) with Jim Voss (spring 2000).
 
Geronimo (5.7, 5 pitches) with Jim Voss (spring 2000).
 
Dark Shadows (5.8-, 4 pitches) with Jim Voss (spring 2000).
 
Catwalk (5.6+, 8 pitches) with Jim Voss (spring 2000).  Wet!
 
Cat in the Hat (5.6, 5 pitches) with Ian Gillespie (spring 2001?) and Jim Voss (spring 2000).

Pitch 5 of "Frogland"
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Canadian Rockies:
During the entire month of July 1999, Jim Voss and I endured two days of rain and snow for every day of sun, and managed to get in a few good alpine climbs.

My notable Canadian Rockies climbs include:
 
Mt. Edith Cavell, East Ridge (III, 5.3) with Jim Voss in spring conditions (July 1999).
 
Mt. Louis, Gmoser Route (III, 5.8, 12 pitches) with Jim Voss (July 1999).
 
Castle Mountain, Upper Brewer Buttress (II, 5.6, 10 pitches) with Jim Voss (July 1999).
 
Medicine Slabs, Cadot Crack (III, 5.8, 14 pitches) with Jim Voss (July 1999).
 
Tower of Babel, McKay Route (5.7, 6 pitches) with Jim Voss (July 1999).
 

Tetons:
I spent all of summer 1996 in the Tetons, climbing about 25 alpine routes to significant summits.  

That's me on the summit of Mt. Owen
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Grand Teton north face in background. Photo by Sean Neilson (June 1996).

Click here for my article (published in Gravity Magazine) about a mini-epic on Mt. Owen

Click here for my tongue-in-cheek retrospective on life at the Grand Teton Climber's Ranch

My notable Teton climbs include:
 
Grand Teton, East Ridge (III, 5.7+) with Christian Beckwith and a bivy on route.
 
Grand Teton, North Face (IV, 5.8) with Brian Harder in 19.5 hours car-to-car.
 
Grand Teton, North Ridge (IV, 5.9 var.) with Neil Gleichman via Valhalla Canyon and a bivy on route.
 
Grand Teton, Owen-Spalding (II, 5.4) in late spring in plastic boots with Dean Halfacre from Moraine camp.  Also from Lower Saddle camp with Mark Shelp. 
 
Grand Teton, Upper Exum (II, 5.4) in late spring in plastic boots from Lower Saddle camp with Dean Halfacre, Jim Voss, and Ryan Voss.  This was my first route up the Grand in summer 1993 (also in plastic boots). 
 
Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge (III, 5.7) twice from Moraine camp, once with Christian Szautner.
 
Grand Teton, Petzoldt Ridge (III, 5.6) with Sean Neilson from Lower Saddle camp.
 
Grand Teton, Underhill Ridge (III, 5.8) with Christian Beckwith from Moraine camp.
 
Mt. Owen, Serendipity Arete (IV, 5.7, A0) with Paul Nash from Valhalla Canyon with bivy 100 feet below summit.
 
Mt. Owen, Koven Couloir (II, 5.2) with Sean Neilson in late spring from Teton Glacier camp.  Epic!
 
Mt. Moran, CMC Route (II, 5.6) with Tracey Silberman.
 
Middle Teton, Glacier Route (III, 5.4) with Jim Voss from Garnet Canyon camp.
 
Middle Teton, Buckingham Ridge (III, 5.7) with Dustin Welch in one day.
 
Middle Teton, Northwest Couloir (III, 5.6) from Lower Saddle camp with Dean Halfacre, Jim Voss, and Ryan Voss.
 
Middle Teton, Southwest Couloir (II, steep snow) 2x, solo and with my father (summer 1993).
 
Matternought Peak, Taminah Arete (III, 5.9) from Taminah Lake camp with Christian Szautner.
 
Nez Perce, Northwest Ledges (II, 5.4) in plastic boots with Dean Halfacre, Jim Voss, and Ryan Voss from Garnet Canyon camp. 
 
Mt. Buck, East Face (4th class snow) with Dean Halfacre in late spring.
 
Chief Joseph Buttress (III, 5.9/10) with Steve Bullock.
 
Open Book (III, 5.9, 7 pitches).
 
Irene's Arete (III, 5.8, 6 pitches) with Tracey Silberman.
 
Teewinot, East Face (II, 4th class snow/rock) three times.
 
Symmetry Spire, Durrance Ridge (5.8, 8 pitches) with Christian Szautner.
 
Symmetry Spire, Southwest Ridge (5.7, 7 pitches).
 
Storm Point, Guides Wall (5.9+, 6 pitches) 2x, once with Dean Halfacre.
 
Baxter's Pinnacle, South Ridge (5.8+, 5 pitches).
 

The Tetons
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Photo by Sean Neilson

Treks:

Mt. Everest Base Camp:
In spring 1995, I went on a 45-day self-guided trek in the Khumbu Himal of Nepal, much of it with Dan Morris and David Pettner.  We stayed in "tea shops" every night, with the exception of two nights in a tent.  We started at road's end in Jiri and trekked three weeks to Everest Base Camp.  We then retreated to Pheriche and summitted two 19,000 foot peaks in the vicinity.  Dan and I then crossed the Cho La Pass and spent over a week exploring the Gokyo valley.  I then descended to Lukla and helicoptered back to Kathmandu.    

Kanchenjunga Massif, Indian Himalayas:
In late winter 1995, I went on an 11-day guided trek to Goecha La Pass in Sikkim, India.  I decided to take this trek only after viewing the amazing Kanchenjunga Massif from Darjeeling, India.  In order to trek in the restricted state of Sikkim, I had to by law (1) acquire a special 14-day maximum stay visa, (2) find at least three other trekkers to accompany me, and (3) hire an entourage of guides, cooks, and porters.  I talked two Kiwis into joining me, and they recruited their American acquaintance Dan Morris.  Though we were slowed by waist-deep snow, giardia, an unusual chicken theft scandal, bitter cold, incredibly strong winds, and a lazy and discouraging Sherpa guide, Dan Morris and I finally set off on our own and attained our destination: the 16,500 foot Goecha La Pass. 

North Cascades:
In early fall 1994, Mark Shelp and I hiked the northernmost 260 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail in 26 days from Snoqualmie Pass in central Washington to Manning Provincial Park in Canada.  Overcompensating for my lack of food on the John Muir Trail (see below), I arranged for two massive food drops along the way and probably gained weight.

John Muir Trail:
In late summer 1994, I hiked the entirety of the John Muir Trail through the heart of the California Sierras.  I began solo at Whitney Portal and hooked up with Mark Shelp and Bethany Elson along the way.  After 17 days and 225 miles, my spectacular hike ended in Yosemite Valley.  Though I prided myself on using no food drops, and thus carrying two weeks of food (heavy!), I did not bring nearly enough.  I thereby fantasized about food for most of the trip and devoured several food caches abandoned by other hikers.       

And finally . . .
 
White Mountains, New Hampshire:
This is where it all began for me.  On annual trips, my dad would drag me, sometimes my mom, and sometimes a stray cousin or two up several 4,000 foot peaks.  By the age of sixteen, I had become a member of the White Mountain Four Thousand Footer Club.

What is the White Mountain Four Thousand Footer Club?

Franconia Ridge from Mt. Lafayette
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Photo by Sam Page (January 4, 2007)

King Ravine, Mt. Adams
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Photo by Sam Page (June 2006)

Click here for more of my photos

 
 
Last updated June 11, 2009