ekLED - Custom designed LED conversions for Muscle Cars
FAQ
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FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions.....
*Q - "I've heard that I need to install resistors, or change my turn-signal flasher to get LED lights to work..."
A - The reason for the resistors is to create enough "load" (amperage draw) to trip your existing thermal flasher can. The resistors sold/recommended by others create HEAT! Some are even encased in ceramics so they don't melt & can dissapate the heat! I don't endorse installing "mini-toasters" into your wiring harness!
 I'd rather spend $12 for an electronic flasher than cut my wiring and install a toaster in my trunk!
 
ekLED Modules are sold with the understanding that you may have to change your existing flasher to an aftermarket electronic flasher. Our customers have a 50/50 track record of needing to do this or not. If you do, the unit that has had the best results is the: Tridon EL-12  It's available at all major auto-parts stores for about $12.

Electronic Flashers

 
*Q - "I can buy a pair of "LED Replacement Bulbs" for $20... why should I spend more...?"
A - LED replacement bulbs are just that.... A cluster of LED's mated to a traditional bulb base, made to fit within the dimensional confines of a traditional 1157 bulb - a "one size fits all" solution.
What they don't tell you is that LED's are "optically directional". LED's that have sufficient brightness for automotive duty only have a 10 to 20 degree "viewing angle". An aftermarket "bulb replacement LED" will work, but in use will provide a hot-spot circle of illumination directly in-line with the socket... leaving the rest of the lens area dark.
ekLED Modules are designed using an "array" of LEDs. The LEDs are positioned throughout the area of an OEM lens, and maximize the diffusion properties of the lens.
 
*Q - "Will I have to cut or splice into my vehicle's wiring harness?"
A -  ekLED modules use a proprietary bulb adapter. It clicks into the existing socket just like the bulb you are replacing. There are NO modifications necessary to your vehicles wiring or sockets!
 
*Q - "I'm thinking about your conversion to use my backup lights/reflectors as auxiliary turn/stop lamps... are there any modifications needed?"
A -  Depending on the year/model you may need to drill 1 or 2 small (1/4") holes in your taillight housings. This is necessary to "snake" a feed wire into the backup lamp housing. It will not be visible from the outside, and a dot of silicone will seal up the hole.... a minimal modification for 50% more lighting!