FOLLOWING THESE TIPS will save you time and frustration, and will actually increase your enjoyment of roses. I learned by personal experience over the years that many of the recommended procedures for rose-care are only myths! There are a few essentials, but basically if the right rose varieties are planted in the right locations with ample water and periodic feeding, they will give years and years of beauty and satisfaction.
LOCATION OF PLANTING -- Roses need good air circulation and at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day, preferably morning sunlight. Filtered shade after 2 pm maximizes flower color and increases flower longevity in hot, dry areas. This step is important: it can save you lots of time and effort -- and unnecessary aggravation.
BAREROOT PLANTS -- Available only in winter, but easy to work with if you follow the rules: Choose plants with plump stems. Break off any sprouts. Cut back stems to only 8-10 inches. (Removing the sprouts and cutting back the stems were hard lessons for me to learn, and they may seem counterproductive to you, too, as they first did to me. But I can reassure you, following these two steps will result in much stronger plants than you will have if you leave the shoots on and refuse to cut back the stems!) Next cut off any broken roots. Thoroughly mix up to one-quarter cup of granulated rose food into loose soil at the bottom of the hole. Spread roots, and plant your new rose bush with the crown (that knobby area from which all the stems come up) AT soil level in mild climates, or about two inches BELOW soil level where the ground freezes. You don't really need to worry about the size of the hole; just make sure all the roots are buried. Water the ground well, then cover the entire plant with excess soil or mulch. (Yes, the entire plant!) This acts as insulation, protecting the whole plant as new roots establish themselves. After two weeks remove this excess insulating soil. Feed again when the first flowers open.
CONTAINER-GROWN ROSES -- There are two main advantages to buying container-grown rose plants: (1) you can see their flowers before you spend your money, and (2) you may plant them practically any time of year. Before planting, mix one-fourth cup of rose food with the soil in the hole. Be careful not to break the root ball when planting. Water well to help the plant get established. Feed again about 6 weeks later.
MULCH -- Adding up to 4 inches of organic mulch, in the form of wood shavings, leaf mold, compost, or a living groundcover such as Nasturtiums or Aptenia 'Red Apple,' or even daylilies, around plants optimizes growth and reduces watering and rose diseases. The difference is amazing!
WATERING -- If you live in an area where irrigation is necessary, here is the general information you need regarding watering. Keep the ground around your roses damp, but not soggy. That may require irrigating 2-4 times per week during hot or windy weather in some climates. Consider using a "weeping hose" on a time clock -- it's easy to install, promotes optimal watering levels, and often saves money on water bills. Remember to mulch your plants; this also conserves moisture and reduces both work and expense. Watering roses, especially the foliage, in early morning hours reduces diseases (with the major exception of black spot). But never sprinkle rose foliage in the afternoon or evening, since this promotes diseases and ruins your enjoyment of roses.
FEEDING -- Feed with a high-phosphorus balanced fertilizer at least twice a year (early Spring and mid-Summer). For super roses, feed after every flush of flowers (about every 6-8 weeks) from Spring until mid-Summer. To eliminate aphids without spraying, use a plant food containing a systemic insecticide, such as "Ortho Systemic Rose & Flower Care" or "Spectracide Rose & Flower Care," for the first and last feedings of the year. In cold winter areas feed in early Autumn with a high-potassium formula to help increase stamina during cold weather.
SPRAYS -- You can avoid spraying somewhat by (1) selecting varieties known to be resistant to the diseases in your locality, (2) planting them in a sunny location where there is ample air movement, (3) watering early in the morning but not in the afternoon or evening, and (4) by feeding in Spring and mid-summer with systemic plant foods. Otherwise, if necessary, use Sevin (carbaryl) for caterpillars and grasshoppers, Malathion for aphids, Benlate (benomyl) for mildew and triforine or chlorothalonil for blackspot. Fungicides must be applied weekly for 4-8 weeks in spring and fall to be effective. Mildew and blackspot usually disappear during hot, dry weather even without spraying. (I rarely spray my roses, and they still provide a beautiful garden!) Remove infected leaves from the garden to reduce the spread of diseases.
ANNUAL PRUNING GUIDELINES - GENERAL -- Remove dead and spindly branches. Leaving straight canes usually results in larger spring flowers, while pruning so canes are branched usually gives more, and smaller, spring blooms. You don't really need to worry about which direction the remaining top bud is facing while you prune: the plants will grow back anyway. After pruning, remove all foliage from the plant and from the ground; this helps to reduce disease problems in the springtime (and it tidies up your garden, too).
ANNUAL PRUNING IN MILD CLIMATES -- Prune your roses between December and February by cutting back all bush roses to about one-fourth the height they attained during the year. Most should be cut back to a height of 18-24 inches annually; lower every 3-4 years.
ANNUAL PRUNING IN COLD-WINTER AREAS -- Prune in late winter or early spring after the danger of frost has past; cut back the plants to about a third of the height they attained during the previous season.
SUMMER PRUNING -- In mid-summer, if the plants grow too big, it's good to cut them back a little to shape the plants and keep them in bounds for the fall flush of flowers. Just don't over-do it -- the plants still need lots of leaves to keep up their energy.
WINTER PROTECTION -- Where freezing weather threatens rose plants, it is wise to cover them with a protective mulch. Oak leaves often give the best results; but where these are not readily available, other organic mulches will help a great deal. The idea is to shield the plants from wind and from alternate thawing and freezing. When you are considering what to use, remember to plan for its removal later: some materials may be difficult to remove.
CUTTING FLOWERS FOR INDOORS -- Cut flowering stems either early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Cut above the lowest 5-leaflet leaf (usually 3-5 inches above the base of the stem). Immerse stem in a tall container of warm water, and refrigerate at least one hour. Remove the flowers from the refrigerator and arrange them in a vase. Freshen the water every day.
