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Questions & Answers

Top Ten Questions About Log Homes

1. What is the best log home company?

There are over 300 companies that offer log home kits and packages. Each is a little different than the others. But they are also much alike in that most have been in business for many years, offer a good product, have considerable experience, and have a stable of satisfied customers.

Log home companies can differ by log styles, wood species, building methods, floor plans, milling and drying techniques, warranties, customer service, package options, and pricing — just to name just a few. The good news is that there are enough companies out there to meet the needs of practically any log home enthusiast.

2. What is the best wood type?

Like log home companies, wood species all have different characteristics. Some are more dense and sturdier, some less dense but more energy efficient, some are more insect resistant but still need protectant (like all wood types), some are more expensive, some shrink less, some accept protective stain better, some are less likely to crack (check) or warp, and some are more lightweight and easier to work with (lower labor costs).

Only a handful of the hundreds of different wood varieties are used for log homes. These are the varieties that have proven to be the most effective for the purpose. Of this handful, a particular log company may choose to work with only one or two.

Log home companies who use particular wood species have likely been using them for years. They understand the characteristics of each and know how each works in their homes.

So is there one wood type that is best for log home construction? Not really. If pressed, we might say that the cedars are generally superior — but the pines, the firs, the spruces, cypess, and some hardwoods are very close behind. Personal preferences regarding appearance and cost will likely be the real determining factors for you.

3. Are log homes more expensive?

Yes and no. Log homes are not inherently more expensive than stick-frame homes. However, most log homes are custom homes, unlike the cookie-cutter spec homes built by developers using the same sub-contractors, same plans, in the same development — all of which cuts cost.

One-of-a-kind custom homes that are built to unique customer requirements will always cost more, whether they are log homes or not. Therefore, most log homes will cost in a range of 10% to 30% more than a typical spec home of the same size.

4. What will my log home actually cost to build?

Building a log home is not so much different than building a more conventional home, except that the walls (and usually only the first-floor walls) are logs instead of "stick" framing. All other construction can be almost exactly the same as for any other home.

However...log home buyers don't want just any other home. They want cathedral ceilings, full masonry fireplaces, metal roofs, wrap-around porches, heavy timber railings and stairs, lofts, beamed ceilings, tongue-and-groove wood floors, energy-efficient windows and doors, and wooded lots with a view.

The cost of these custom features can add significantly to the cost of an otherwise simple home. As mentioned previously, you can expect the final cost of a custom log home to be 10%-30% greater than a similar spec home.

5. What is the best log style (profile)?

There are round logs, rectangular logs, half-round logs, milled logs, and handcrafted logs — and a number of variations of each of these. Your choice may be partially influenced by the style that is popular in your area. For example, large round logs are popular in the West, more modest rectangular ("square" or "dovetail") logs in the Southeast mountains.

Machine-milled logs can be hand-hewn to resemble handcrafted logs. Handcrafted logs can be hewn to shapes other than round. Milled-log homes can have contrasting handcrafted beams and accents on the inside. Conventionally framed houses can even have real-log siding for a log home look.

Some people don't like round logs because of the uneven exposure to sun and weather, and dust on inside walls. Others don't think milled square logs look authentic. Half-round ("D" logs) that are round on the outside and flat on the inside are a good compromise for many people.

There are other considerations as well when choosing a log style. To chink, or not to chink? Drip edge, or no drip edge? V joint or no joint? Dovetail corners or butt-and-pass? Tongue-and-groove or coped joint?

6. Why are prices so different between log home kits?

Comparing prices from different log home producers can be maddening. The problem is that no two "kits" are exactly the same. Some are very basic, containing only the logs. Others can contain every pre-cut log, window, door, stair case, plywood sheet, two-by-four, and trim piece that you'll need to complete your house. And there is everything in between.

The secret to comparing kit prices is to fully understand exactly what is contained in each package, and attempt to compare on an "apples-to-apples" basis. Some kits might include random-length logs that must be cut at the site (lower package cost - higher labor cost), instead of pre-cut logs. Another variable is the quality of material being offered. If two kits both contain windows as part of the package, one might include high quality energy-efficient (expensive) windows while the other includes a lower quality (less expensive) product.

Generally, if you can actually work out a true apples-to-apples comparison of kit packages, you won't find prices to be tremendously different between companies in the same part of the country. However, there may be significant variations between the prices of companies that are located in widely separated parts of the country.

7. Can I act as my own contractor to save money?

Yes, you can be your own contractor. But the question is do you want to. And are you qualified? And do you have the time?

Although being your own contractor can save you 15%-35% of your total home construction cost, you should know what you are getting yourself into. You should know something about construction and building techniques, have some knowledge of local building codes, be very well organized, know sub-contractors in your area, be a tough manager, and be willing to spend a lot of time at the building site.

Hiring a general contractor who has experience in building log homes, knows sub-contractors, can manage finances, and has project management skills can easily be worth the money you think you'll save by doing it all yourself.

8. What log drying method is best?

Every log home producer has a method and philosophy of how logs must be prepared for the building process. The purpose of drying is to reduce the possibility of shrinkage, warping, checking, and insect infestation. It makes the wood more stable for construction.

Some companies advocate slow air drying, some prefer faster controlled kiln-drying, some say a combination of both is best, and some don't dry their logs at all.

Regardless of the technique, if it's not done correctly, it won't produce the desired results.

Although there are no published studies (to our knowledge) regarding the effectiveness of the various drying methods, it seems to make good sense that logs used in home construction should either be carefully air-dried for at least a year, or kiln-dried for a time that insures that the center section of the log has properly dried.

9. What log stacking and joinery method is best?

If you visit a log home show or browse log home manufacturer web sites, you quickly get introduced to the various methods by which logs can be joined together. Each method is designed to tightly attach one log to another in a vertical stack, and at the corners, so that no air gaps exist, even if the logs settle later.

Milled logs are machined in the factory to fit together properly at the home site. Handcrafted logs are individually fitted at the home site as they are stacked.

To attach stacked logs, companies use thru-bolts, screws, spring-loaded rods, or spikes — or a combination. Insulation between logs can be foam, flexible chinking, foam tape, or caulking material. Applied properly, each of these methods can be very effective. Improperly applied, even a good method won't work well.

Log home companies design their stacking and joinery systems to work with their particular log styles and construction techniques. There are no scientific studies that show one system is better or more reliable than another. So, again, you should go with your own judgment, knowing that there's little chance you'll make a bad choice.

10. What problems can I expect when building a log home?

Some of the possible problems you might encounter as you plan and build your log home are: financing difficulties (usually because the bank doesn't understand log homes), construction delays (for a variety of reasons), poor work quality (because of poor contractors and builders), cost overruns (primarily due to poor planning or mid-course changes to plans).

The key to minimizing the possibility of problems is to know exactly what you want, make detailed plans and schedules, realistically budget your project, line up financing well ahead of time, choose proven contractors and builders, and stick with your plans. Mid-project additions and changes are the potential enemies of any good project, and can turn a dream project into a nightmare.

Regardless of how well you plan, some problems should be expected. Simply deal with them if they occur and don't let them create unnecessary stress in what should otherwise be an enjoyable adventure.

Question:

What is the insulating "R" factor of your log walls?

 

Answer:

The R-value of an 8-inch thick log wall, when coupled with the log wall's thermal mass qualities, performs slightly better than a 2x6 stud wall with BAT insulation and brick veneer (which is about R-16), assuming the log walls are properly constructed. This is according to a report on log home energy efficiency by the Log Homes Council.

 

Question:

I was wondering how well the log walls insulate and how efficient a log home is in general.

 

Answer:

Thanks for your question. See the energy efficiency report from the Log Homes Council at their website for complete information. There you will find the energy efficiency report.

 

Question:

What is the difference in R-value or insulation factor between a 6\" log and an 8\" log?

 

Answer:

The 8-inch log wall R-value coupled with thermal mass properties is equivalent to about R-16, whereas the 6-inch wall is slightly less than R-13.

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Question:

Is delivery included with your pricing and how do you deliver? Will I have to have a crane or forklift on the job-site to take material off the truck? What kind of truck do you deliver on and is there any chance of damage from delivery.

 

Answer:

Delivery via 48-ft. flatbed trailers to as near your jobsite as road conditions allow is included with all Daniel Boone Log Homes, delivered in the continental USA. You will need to rent a forklift capable of lifting 6,000 pounds to unload the trucks. Of course there is the possibility of damage with any delivery, but we rarely have any kind of problem with that, we deliver around 12 trucks per week. When something is damaged in transit, we replace it. We have insurance for such as that. If the big trucks will not be able to get to your jobsite, you can likely get a local building supply company to offload at their store, then bring the material to the jobsite on smaller trucks. They will usually do this at a low cost, if any, in order to get your other business.

 

 

 

Question:

Is the homeowner\'s insurance usually more expensive for a log home?

 

Answer:

No. Homeowners insurance should be about the same as with a conventional home. It may take a bit more shopping, as some insurance companies are not yet up to speed with the popularity of log homes. Not to worry. There are plenty of companies that write policies for log homes, and the rates are generally no higher than with conventional homes.

 

Question:

What is the difference between a timber-frame home and a log home? Is the price considerably different as well?

 

Answer:

A timber frame home generally consists of a framework of posts and beams. The posts are usually 12 feet apart or so. All areas between the posts are built in using conventional 2x6 stud walls with siding on the outside and sheetrock on the inside. Log Homes will have the outside perimeter walls made of logs (solid wood). The rafters and joists for the roof system and second floor will be exposed beams. The ceilings will be tongue and groove. The cost of the two homes will be very similar. Try using $100.00 per square foot as a completed cost estimate to see if these type homes fit your budget. They are very nice and very high quality.

 

Question:

Is the building of the log home included in the package price (the shell)

 

Answer:

The published prices do not include any labor. Generally, in our area of the USA, the package can be constructed for $18-$25 per sq. ft. Your total turnkey cost excluding land and land features (landscaping, well, septic, etc.) ranges from $85.00 to $125.00 per sq. ft., depending on labor choices and quality of finish materials used.

 

Question:

I thought we wanted a wood-burning fireplace, as opposed to a gas fireplace. However, we have been getting lots of advice to put in gas, with a big reason being the energy efficiency. Any thoughts on this? Will a wood-burning fireplace really rob our house of its heating and cooling? Thanks for your help.

 

Answer:

With a wood-burning fireplace, you will have to leave the chimney flue open until the fire is completely out so as not to smoke-up your home. During this time, the chimney will suck air out of your home. With a gas fireplace, you can close the flue immediately after turning off the flame, and no heat is lost. There are two kinds of gas logs, vented and invented. The invented type burns very efficiently and puts out a great deal of heat. However, the flame is blue and does not look very real. The vented type burns very inefficiently, but it looks like a real fire and does give off some heat

 

 

 

 

Question:

Do you know of any vacuum attachments that would stretch over to the open beams or up along the 30ft window ledges?? Every time I use my extension with a cleaning cloth/mop, the cloth gets snagged on the cedar and usually leaves a string of cloth and I just can\'t get the dust off! Any suggestions??

 

Answer:

Since each vacuum manufacturer has different dimensions on their attachments, my suggestion would be to look up your manufacturer on the internet and see what types of extension attachments are available for your system.

 

Question:

What is the difference in the insulation factor for a house made of pine and one of 6x12 western red cedar? I understand that it is a combination of r-factor and thermal mass + good construction.

 

Answer:

Since pine and western red cedar are both conifers, the insulation factor would be basically the same.

 

Question:

DO YOU OFFER GARAGE PACKAGES ALSO? IF SO CAN YOU GIVE ME AN IDEA OF WHAT YOU OFFER AND COSTS?

 

Answer:

Yes, we do offer garage packages. We have many different sizes and models. Please let us know what you are planning to build, the size you are looking for and we will obtain pricing for you.

 

 

 

 

Question:

When the log home starts splitting on only some of the boards.... what can be done to fix this or is it going to be a potential problem in the future?

 

Answer:

When the log starts splitting is called checking. We can recommend a product for you but if treated properly this should not cause any problems in the future.

 

Question:

What's the price difference between a standard gas fireplace as opposed to putting in a metal and wood-burning fireplace with metal chimney?

 

Answer:

Fireplaces are not part of a Daniel Boone Log Home package. You would need to check locally where you are building for this cost.

 

Question:

Is it better to have the fireplace in a corner or in a place where it is not on a support wall or outside wall because of settling?

 

Answer:

It should not make any difference with the fireplace location. Our homes are designed with to have such a small amount of shrinkage that it would just make it a matter of preference on where you want to put your fireplace.

 

Question:

Do log homes depreciate?

 

Answer:

No unless, like any other home, if it were not kept up properly.

 

 

 

 

Question:

What is the best style and wood species for a log home?

 

Answer:

Daniel Boone Log Homes offers Northern White Pine.

 

Question:

Can we visit your manufacturing facility?

 

Answer:

Yes, we would love to have you visit our plant. Unlike many of our competitors, we don’t have any secrets to protect. In fact, we encourage you to visit and observe our superior manufacturing technique.

Question:

Do you know of any problems with allergies and the products used to seal logs like Weatherseal or Sikkens?

 

Answer:

I am not aware of any allergenic issues with these two brands. However, I am not certain of all the technical data and testing performed by these companies. Perhaps you should contact them by phone: Sikkens 1-800-833-7288 and Continetal (Weatherseal) 1-800-305-5869.

 

Question:

I have seen many characteristic comparisons of log homes to other type of homes (e.g., brick homes), but I have never seen the comparison on estimated useful life. Can you provide some data? Thanks.

 

Answer:

I do not have hard data concerning the longevity of log homes, but I can comment on our experiences. We have constructed thousands of log homes in the last 65 years and do not know of any which have deteriorated beyond use. Log homes do require regular maintenance. Preservatives must be reapplied over time, the frequency of which depends on the quality of the preservative used and environmental factors. In conclusion, a log home, if properly constructed and maintained will last for generations.

Question:

What would be the approx. difference be in I poured slab versus a floor with wooden joists

 

Answer:

A slab is much cheaper, as it replaces the foundation and sub floor. You could save $6,000.00 to $8,000.00 on the average house, depending on costs in your area.

Question:

I was told by a few people that the plumbing and ductwork will be much more expensive in a log home. Is this true?

 

Answer:

I do not see why it would be more expensive. Granted, the installers may have to be a bit more creative since they are usually dealing with exposed beam ceilings and second floor systems. However, most ductwork is run under the sub floor and behind knee walls upstairs. Plumbing is generally under the sub floor as well and inside stud walls. We are building our personal log home and did not experience significant increases in cost due to plumbing and ductwork. I would expect the same for you as well. Thanks for your question.

Question:

Once I sign a Purchase Agreement, can I make changes to my package?

 

Answer: 

         Packages are frequently amended to add or subtract materials and to rearrange floor plans.

Question:

What is the insulating "R" factor of your log walls?

 

Answer:

The R-value of an 8-inch thick log wall, when coupled with the log wall's thermal mass qualities, performs slightly better than a 2x6 stud wall with BAT insulation and brick veneer (which is about R-16), assuming the log walls are properly constructed. This is according to a report on log home energy efficiency by the Log Homes Council.

 

Question:

I was wondering how well the log walls insulate and how efficient a log home is in general.

 

Answer:

Please see the energy efficiency report from the Log Homes Council at their website for complete information. There you will find the energy efficiency report.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Question:

I have seen the term \"turnkey\" in many real estate brochures and log home web sites. However, nowhere can I find a definition of this term. Can you explain what it means? Thank you!

 

Answer:

The term turnkey refers to a home that is completely built...where the general contractor can hand you the key, and you can move right in. Therefore, a turnkey cost of a home is the absolute total cost unless items are specifically excluded (like the cost of your land, and the cost of a well or landscaping). A log home package cost is the cost of the materials needed to construct the shell of the home, delivered to your jobsite. No labor or interior materials are included unless specifically noted.