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Here are a couple of examples of saddles. The dressage saddle is more than ten years old - take good care of a well-made saddle and it should last for many years, even decades.

dressage.jpg
Dressage saddle

A dressage style saddle has a deeper seat and straighter flaps than a hunt seat saddle. Right now, it's stylish to have long billets (the straps that the girth is attached to); this one has standard, short billets. A new saddle equivalent to this one costs about $1,800 today. . . I spent less than 1/3 of that, and for my purposes, style is definitely a secondary consideration.

You need to have saddle pads that fit the shape of the saddle - make sure there's enough pad so that the saddle isn't resting on a trimmed edge that will dig into your horse. A large square pad is ok with a saddle like this, but don't use a hunt-seat pad under a dressage saddle.

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Light-duty Western saddle

There are many kinds of Western saddles tailored to many different activities. This is a general, light-duty saddle, suitable for pleasure riding or light trail riding.

Western showing requires a saddle lavishly decorated with silver. There are saddles built especially for roping, barrel racing, and cutting, just to name a few. The most important thing is that the saddle fit your horse, but I'd advise buying a saddle that's made for the activity you're interested in.

The tree of a Western saddle is designed to distribute load over the broadest possible area of the horse's back. It's important that it fit correctly. Make sure that the saddle doesn't "bridge" (touch only a the front and back, with gaps in the center), and that there's sufficient clearance for the horse's withers under the gullet. If possible, bring the horse to the tack store for fitting. Many stores permit you to try the saddle on the horse as long as it is unmarked if you return it.

A word about pads: don't rely on pads to adjust a poor fit (this goes for English as well as Western saddles). A pad is there to absorb sweat, to keep the underside of the saddle from being exposed to the salts and proteins in sweat that will damage the leather. A saddle that fits well, fits with no pad at all. Always fit the saddle without a pad first, then add the appropriate pad.

On a tight budget, check out the consignment or second-hand sections of tack stores. You can sometimes find a very good quality used item that will serve you better than a cheap, new one.

Listen first, whisper later...