Wormspew
Baddaddy!
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   Welcome to the best three pitch finger crack on the Eastside.....

baddaddytopo.jpg
iyam just visible at the crux on the FFA

Here I might add a description of the photo above, including such information as when and where it was taken and why it's important to me.

  Milo told me that he'd found a 400' finger  crack  that followed an exposed butress,  Turned out that he had allready done a few other routes in this secret  canyon on  excellent granite......
Pro:   thin to 3".   Double up on 1/2" to 2" cams.  Single 200' rope  for the raps.
   Park  at the first switchback in Pine Creek Road   above Rovanna.  The crag is invisible behind the sandy moraine on the north side of the road.  A trail starts from the  pull-out, and ascends the steep hill, before it drops down to the North across a sage flat to  a   gully, where it turns  uphill. The crags are visible ahead on the left side of the canyon.  Some class 3 is encountered in the gully just before the crags.  Baddaddy is on the third  butress to the left. The   approach takes 45 minutes to an hour.     A  3' cairn is stacked up at the base.   A bouldery start   leads to a thin crack that goes thru a roof and then follows a  rightward traversing arch.  Three bolts were placed along the  final  portion of the pitch.  The second pitch follows a fun hand and finger crack to a spectacular roof, turned to the left to a big spike protuding from the lip.   The last pitch climbs a beautiful unfolding diehedral to finish on the exposed crest of the arete.   This is a really good route!
Descent:  Rappel  from the bolted belay stations.  A 200' rope is best, the raps are all about 90'.   -watch out....

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This .10a Roof near the bottom of the first pitch, takes 1 1/2"-2' pro

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the incredible third pitch starts as an awkward tips lieback, unfolding to a spectacular finish.

wormspew
above is as below- Hermes Trisgestus