Milo told me that he'd found a 400' finger crack that followed an exposed butress,
Turned out that he had allready done a few other routes in this secret canyon on excellent granite......
Pro: thin to 3". Double up on 1/2" to 2" cams. Single 200'
rope for the raps.
Park at the first switchback in Pine Creek Road
above Rovanna. The crag is invisible behind the sandy moraine on the north side of the road. A trail
starts from the pull-out, and ascends the steep hill, before it drops down to the North across a sage flat to
a gully, where it turns uphill. The crags are visible ahead on the left side of the canyon. Some
class 3 is encountered in the gully just before the crags. Baddaddy is on the third butress to the left. The
approach takes 45 minutes to an hour. A 3' cairn is stacked up at the base.
A bouldery start leads to a thin crack that goes thru a roof and then follows a rightward traversing arch.
Three bolts were placed along the final portion of the pitch. The second pitch follows a fun hand and
finger crack to a spectacular roof, turned to the left to a big spike protuding from the lip. The last pitch climbs
a beautiful unfolding diehedral to finish on the exposed crest of the arete. This is a really good route!
Descent: Rappel from the bolted belay stations. A 200' rope is best, the raps are
all about 90'. -watch out....
