Wormspew
interesting climbs and stuff
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Wormspew Bouldering

phathead V3
link to wormspew bouldering
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The best three pitch finger crack on the Eastside
link to Baddaddy page
click here for info about Baddaddy

link to werm's pew page
click here to see another new route upcanyon...

mary the dog's webpage
Click here for Mary's peak list

Caveat Emptor.   Reccomended Routes and Lists of stuff

Recommendations: Some Cool Sierra Routes
 
 
 
1]Snake Dike, in Yosemite-  The most coreographed route in the world.  The line was drawn,  "thou shalt climb here."
 
2]Southeast Face of Mount Emmerson -  grade III, 5.4.  A prominent crack system to a cool summit ridge, reasonable rock and a short approach make this one to check out!
 
3]The Gendarmes, Rock Creek Cirque-  A wildly tilted picket fence extending nearly a mile between Ruby peak and Mount Mills.
 
4] Traverse of the Crest of Paiute Crags #11 and #10-  There are terrifying sections of stacked footballs lower down, but the crest is improbably purple and solid.  Really Cool, a 20 minute approach, and I probably got about the third ascent ever!  Use Roper's guide!
 
5]Cathedral Range Traverse, Toulumne-  Great rock and lots of nice strolling between the cruxy bits.  User friendly, not too commiting.
 
 
 
Moderate Low Elevation Fun Mini-Peaks:

The Fang
buttermilk country spire
A fun 2 pitch 5.2 climbs the sunlit face.

The Fang-  Look south from the cattleguard at the buttermilks, the obvious sharp pinnacle on the skyline in front of grouse montain.  The NW face has a way cool 2or 3 pitch 5.1.  The approach takes about 30 minutes, and you can sand surf most of the way back down.                                       South butress of Buttermilk Dome-  Right behind the Iron Man Traverse is a grainy slab leading to toilet sized cat-litter huecoes.  Negotiate a balancy 5.4 lieback to gain the crest, some more moonscoops and a final lieback lead to the summit in about two pitches or so.  This is one of my favorites!                             Tungsten Hills Dome/Alabama Getaway-  On the way to the tungsten hills circuit, you drive past this cute little dome.  Park at the sewage pond for the youth corectional facility and hike up the wash to the south to the face of the obvious dome.  We tried an X rated direct route and bailed.  It can be done w/o bolts, but only by a superman.  So we started off a ledge to the left and followed the big ledge accross the N face, and then some slabby stuff.  We did the FA on my Ex's 32 birthday, hence the name[ferdeadheads]  Two pitches,  5.3,  med. stoppers.  Since then,  I occasionally do it as a quick solo.                         Possum Pinnacle in Pine Creek Canyon.  -Park at the little creek crossing 1/2 mile before Pratt's Crack Canyon, and hike 10 minutes North to a collection of low angle, old-timy routes.  Also in the area is Elderberry Butress and Possum Ridge- A personal standing project of mine.  Harder than it appears, and very, very long.  Unkown if there has been a complete ascent.         Behind the pack station at the Pine Creek trailhead is a little red-lookin' peak with a subsidary peak on it's NE flank.  The Country Glass Arete is a fun, slightly trecherous route up the NE arete of this subsidary peak[see photo].
  Boyscout Buttress, 2 miles north of Lone Pine.- A couple miles north of town on the old highway, you pass this side canyon,  left turn, "NoDumping"  There is an interesting giant boulder with a S. facing steep finger crack in the north  fork of the side canyon.  Boy Scout Buttress is in the S. fork, facing north, and is visible from US 395.  It is the right hand of 2 buttresses.  2 pitches of granite patina, very little cracks for gear, but a great mini-solo [5.3], if you happen to be in Big Pine.

Country Glass Arete [III 5.4]
country glass arete behind pine creek pack station
The Country Glass Arete climbs the right hand skyline of this peak above the Pine Creek trailhead.

possum ridge and elderberry buttress up pine creek
Possum Ridge is the tower left of center

South Ridge of Buttermilk Dome [5.4]
click for a larger image

Alpine Ridges and Aretes      [also, check out my Summer Trips  page]

 
 
 
Mount Humpfrys  was a lot of fun, mostly class 4 untill the last 300'.   Oh yeah, there is one little notch about a third of the way, a really insignificant notch, where if you don't find the hidden sidepull off left, you will be sorry!  Married Men's Point is only the notch before the final steep pitches.  There was some kitty litter farms up high on the route, but overall it reminds me of the ultimate Buttermilk crag, which it is.  Definately start the arete at the notch below the peaklet, and stay on the crest the whole way unless you chicken out.  On these type of routes, it doesn't help to try too hard to match up your topo to reality.   Almost always, even the most improbable sections of an arete will go if you cling to the very crest.  This is a great long route, almost a mile of climbing, and not too hard.
The Mathess Crest in Toulmne is a must do if you like ridge traverses.   The rock is excellent , but be aware that if you stay on the crest and traverse the entire formation, it is really a bit more of a project than reported in the guide book.  Probably about 5.7, III+.
A traverse of the entire Crystal Crag ridge, from north to south, is actually  pretty long, with all of the hard climbing in the first bit.  The white towers are sorta cool.  Of course, it is easy to bail down the west face after you summit.  5.6 or 5.7, [III if you do the whole thing.]
The crest of Wheeler Peak is easily accessible, yet wild.  Traversing  the entire crest is never more than 4th class and never very scary.
The Paiutes were traversed somehow in 1975 by Beech and King.  Those dudes were Bad A@@!
 
 

Alpine Rock Ridges
link to summer trips page
East Arete of Mount Humphrys [III 5.4]

 Rock Creek cirque is silvery granite.  Ruby Peak's east ridge is a great class 3-4 with a short approach; the best start for the Gendarme Ridge.  The traverse from Mono Pass to  Ruby Peak is good, but suffers from a boring sandy plateau section, and some grainy rock.  But the last little bit before Ruby is "bigger the Furthur  you go".   All routes on Bear Creek Spire are worthy, if you know what to expect.  When I ran into Jason, we were both just happened to be soloing Royal Arches, and he thought that the last peaks in the Rock Creek chain [Rosy Finch and that other one] were way better than people were saying [choss heaps!].  Last year, he soloed the Rock Creek Traverse, or at least tagged all the main summits, in 21 hours.
There are some long ridges that start really close to the road in Pine Creek Canyon.  People have climbed here for years, but I doubt that some of these long aretes have been followed to their terminus.  Possum Ridge and the Country Glass Arete are two of my standing projects-  Endless, free soloable ridges with short approaches.  With no simple way down [the catch].  There are also unreporeted  trad and bolted routes, as well as bouldering, in the Canyoun.

Beware that none of my climbs have a very impressive grade.  I don't want to sandbag anyone.  Some of the trickiest stuff in the mountains is class 4.  Route finding and loose rock tremendously complcate the difficulty of a route.   Speed is essential, but speed without expert routefinding is suicide in the peaks.  Don't just jump on a big peak and expect a crag route.                   -On ridge climbs, you must always decide if the best line lies to either side of the crest.  99% of the time, the shortest and best line is to exactly follow the exposed crest.  There will probably be easier ledges and gullies, there always are, but they will require additional downclimbing and weaving around the fat sides of gendarmes,  instead of quickly swinging from summit to pointy summit.  It  is just simple geometry;  A straight line along the top of the crest is a shorter line than any line that winds around the sides of features.  The difficulty right out on the edge may or may not be harder than taking less direct routes, but it is always shorter, and it about always will go,  no matter how improbable it looks.  The exposure can be horrendous, but that's why you do it, right?  The rock quality is almost always better right on the crest;  it's the crest because all the softer choss has fallen away.  Get it?     -Go forth and Rideth thine Ridge!

 
 
About Ratings:
Is crumbling wall of sand class 2 going down and class 6[aid] going up?  If you dig holds out, is it class 5?  A Mud  puddle is class 1, unless you get stuck and they pull you out with a rope.  Then it is at least class 4.
A teetering wall of football shaped blocks is 5.2, but since you have to hold everything in place, it feels about 5.11.  No 5.13 sport climber has ever summited a 30'000' peak.  A manzanita slope may be scary, deadly exposed class 2.  Class 2 talus wants to mousetrap your ankle and flip you into the abyss.  It lurks were you never look.  4th class almost always has short little sections of 5.9.    The grade of 5.3 is unofficially reserved for only the most gruesome, awkward pitches. 
When the guidebook says look for the 5.2 hand crack on the left, there will be about forty possible options, unless there isn't a damn thing.  It isn't the guidebook author's fault;  he is not responsible for the behavior of mountains.  It's best to know  just that there is a route; and to cultivate the ability to follow your nose.
THERE IS A COREOGRAPHY FOR ALL TERRAIN FOR ALL CREATURES THAT BELONG THERE