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Esoteric Climbing and Exploration in the Eastern Sierra

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    Useful Misinformation for Eastside Mountaineering

Sunday, July 25, 2004

Trailor Park
  Today I ran out into the blazing desert over the Pine Creek Moraine, and finally got an up close look at the immense Trailor Park Boulder.  It lies at the base of the next canyon over from Baddaddy Canyon, about 1/2 mile from the house boulder.  It is as monolithic as anything, almost as big as the infamous Peabodies.  The overhanging north face looks like two Mandalas stacked on top of each other-ewww!  The south and west faces are slabby, but still hard enough, and about 40 feet tall!  I found no evidence of any climbing done previously, but the boulder is visible from miles away, if you know where to look.  It was too hot and scary to summit today, but the slabby sides look doable enough, although very much a highball!  Take a look:
trailor park boulder
  .....if i were a real photographer, I would get up early and get some better lighting!
  Between this thing and the nearby House Boulder [scroll down for pics] there is some whirled class highball granite out there behind the Pine Creek Moraine.   The TrailorPark was too scary for today, but I found a sweet 20'  handcrack on another boulder down the moraine:
sweet little handcrack on the moraine[look closely at the reflection in my glasses to see my self portrait technique]
This one was fun enough to do twice.  Here is a pic I took near the top by wavin' the camera around in the air over my head:
dangerous photography!
1:09 pm pdt

Wednesday, July 21, 2004

  Last night I went to the house for a beer, and coiled up on the sprinkler hose on the front porch was this young gopher snake.  There is a persistant and prolific nest of sparrows on our front porch, and this guy had a suspicious bulge in his stomach, and acted a little cranky when I petted him.  I put him in the neighbor's tree to digest his dinner, then we went and got a pizza for ours.  The largest snake I ever saw in the wild was a gopher snake almost eight feet long, about fifteen years ago, and only about two miles from here.  They are probably relatives....
baby sparrow eatin
3:41 pm pdt

Sunday, July 18, 2004

Stormy Weather
   It has certainly been a humid, sticky July.  Afteernoon storms have almost become the rule, except they are usually sparse enough that a bit of running around is required to get very wet.  The sagebrush smells really nice.....
  Spent a couple hours up canyon checking out the House Boulder, reccomended by Milo.  That damn thing is huge!  About three stories, give or take....  It took me a little while to suss out the 30' downclimb, but I eventually summited, and took a few pics.  There are some incredible lines on it, the frothy dark streak on the North face is particularily intriguing!  I doubt if any lines on this immense block have been done, except for the easy lines on the east and west faces,  the rock is excellent  compact silver granite, with abundant knobs and crystals.  To find it, follow the approach trail to Baddaddy Canyon untill the moraine is crossed, then turn downslope and the huge boulder will soon come into view below the hill, takes about 30 minutes from the car.  About a half mile to the north, is the even bigger Trailer Park Boulder, which is the size of a double wide stuck on end.  Pics of that one will have to come later...
house boulder and me I climbed the left skyline off of the big block-
halfway up halfway up, holdin' th' camera over my head!
lookinLookin' down from the tiny summit at the way I came up[and had to go back down!]
north face of the house boulderand finally, check out this bubbly streak on the 30' north face!  I will post another pic on my bouldering page[see"interesting climbs and stuff" on the nav bar]
      If yer in Tahoe next weekend, be sure to peek at http://www.tungstencityband.com
  .......And  also, the sudden abscence of McCall is noted.  I hope that everything is for the best for him.
.......Now, On to the Storm!
1:08 pm pdt

Tuesday, July 13, 2004

T' Dye For......
  What a mess!  No, really, it wasn't so bad.  We cranked out around 30 new tye-dyes yesterday  here on Idaho Street, take a look at the yeild:
tye-dye kids
I was pretty lazy last week, but here is a pic from the one time I went bouldering up on Pine Creek:
6:27 am pdt

Sunday, July 11, 2004

Color in our life
Hung around the house and listened to the band record there new album, kinda boring.  Hyperspatial experiences, and a cool gig at Mobile on Thursday.  Th' kids returned from Yosemite, so we had a tye-dye party.
Milo sez," so, Herm, how long since youv'e done this?"
old tie dye
I gotta  lot of these.....
handstomorrow I'll post some pics of the results......
7:48 pm pdt

Monday, July 5, 2004

Season Opener
  Milo and I finally got up into the high country for the first time this year and went up to Ruby Peak[13,198'] in the Rock Creek Cirque, because it is only 4 miles in, and we had done it before a bunch of times.  We got in around 3,000 feet of climbing up to perhaps low 5th class,  that  we decided was really only class 4 with some dispersed sections of perhaps 5.10[?].  [not really; 'sept maybe.....we got lost]
  Ruby peak has mostly good rock with a whole lot of options.  We ascended the East ridge and traversed a portion of the North Ridge, until we saw a gully that went home.  Lots of rock up there.....Milo hiking in to ruby peak
we went up the left skyline of ruby  peak and then traversed the crest northward.
milo jammin
the tungstencity band bass player/songwriter  jammin'....
teetering blocks of granite
easy climbing, but which of these blocks is holding up all the others?
exposed climbing
our hero lookin' a little nervous....
traversing the North Ridge of Ruby Peak today.......
the bugs have been keepin' me busy these daze- it sure feels good to feel some pain up in the mountains.  Maybe something else, next week?
3:22 pm pdt

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Disclaimer   The opinions offered here are mine.  I believe that sucsess on the peaks depends on trusting yourself.  If you do not have a trusting relationship with your body and mind, or if you are not sure, or if you are unwilling to provide the commitment, then you should probably stick with sport climbing and such.  To the mountain ecosystem, you are only a rich supply of nutrients, so step carefully!

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