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Esoteric Climbing and Exploration in the Eastern Sierra

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summit register of Humpfries
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    Useful Misinformation for Eastside Mountaineering

Saturday, January 30, 2010

rossi hill tai chi
tai chi in the backyard
11:46 am pst

Saturday, September 8, 2007

Patricia Bowel
   The Amazing Austin Archer provided the Cactus Rancher and I with a tour of the crag at the cirque above Patricia Lake up Rock Creek.  Astro-Dawg is climbing strong and made sure that we left well exercised.  It is beginning to be a little chilly in the shade up in the mountains, so hurry up and finish off this season's list.  Here is a pic of our rope gun on the fun warm up 5.10 "Stoic Tree Arete".
austin on the stoic arete
2:45 pm pdt

Saturday, July 14, 2007

Big Johnson
  The Cactus Rancher and I got out early this morning and somehow managed to stumble to the summit of Mt. Johnson [12,871'] from the Treasure Lakes col.  This peak is more complex than we expected, but will go at class 3 up the back [western] side, if one is sensible enough to use proper routefinding.
  From the summit we looked down into Kings Canyon National Park, which is surprisingly close, considering how long it takes to drive there.  Here is myself on the summit, with the Citadel and the rest of the Kings Canyon highcountry in the background.  Look closely and notice my devilish visage.....
summit of johnson
2:55 pm pdt

Saturday, June 16, 2007

Lost in the Evolution Range
   Today Milo and I had a good time in the cirque above South Lake.  The plan was to sleep in and do a little season opener on one of the lower peaks above Treasure Lakes, but the dominant pryamid of the NE spur of Mt. Gilbert  attracted our attention at once, despite an obvious headwall near the summit.This obstacle turned out to be a bit more than we planned for, but we still did a whole lot more climbing than we meant to do.  Since we just ran out without much information on where  we were going, we just aimed for the coolest looking peak in the vacinity.  I could not believe it when I came home and looked it up, only to discover that the obvious pinnacle is simply an unnamed subpeak of Gilbert.  The route was excellent, with good exposure, and the bothersome headwall is probably only mid fifth class.  I will probably go back a little better prepared, and name the peak after myself...
stymied by the headwall
5:08 pm pdt

Friday, May 25, 2007

What a Fox......
  This beautiful animal has been coming down every evening and eating mullberries that fall on the ground outside my little Manzanar barracks.   It looks just like a large and healthy Grey Fox.......
my pet fox
6:36 pm pdt

Sunday, May 20, 2007

Down Like Buttermilk
  The kids came over this weekend and motivated me to run around outside a little while.  A certain sign of impending summertime is the lack of crowds at the Buttermilks.  There were only a few cars tucked away in a couple discrete campsites.  My daughter had to delete some rabbit pics so she could take this one of me on top of some random pinacle.   If anyone wants to see rabbits on my front porch, just let me know.....
Bishop crest
12:03 pm pdt

Wednesday, May 9, 2007

Still Alive
  It has been brought to my attention that 'Spew is in need of updating.  A  few broken links folks have been complaining about have been repaired.  Apparently this is the only place to get a topo of Baddaddy up above Rovanna.  It is a good route that needs some traffic, being one of the best cracks around at the grade.
  Perhaps someone will remind me to keep this place updated.  What does everyone want to see here?  For now, here is a pic of me goofing off on some limestone up in Marble Canyon, across the river:
bouldering in marble canyon
1:59 pm pdt

Sunday, July 16, 2006

A Visit to the Cathouse
  The backyard just keeps getting more interesting.  Yesterday, I was downclimbing a narrow slot in the summit formation and had a close encounter with a family of bobcats.   The mamma cat stood her ground and glared at me while the three kittens scrambled away.  It is a perfect location for a den, as the only way in is through a narrow cave opening, unless someone happens to be climbing down the wall from the summit pinnacle.  This morning i decided to grab a camera and see if I could do it again.   The kittens were hidden, but I caught the mother sleeping:bobcat momma asleep
  The sound of the camera woke her up, but she stayed put long enough for the kittens to run away, and for me to get a second pic.  The photographic quality could be better, but what the heck.  How often does the opportunity come up to get personal contacts with wildcats?
10:06 am pdt

Tuesday, July 4, 2006

Smokestack Lightnin'
   Flux and I spent a few hours up on Smoke Blanchard's old rock course in the Buttermilk Country this afternoon.  Smoke was the Eastside's first documented Bhudist  as well as a prolific explorer of the local terrain.  His convoluted route thru the Buttermilk topography is legendary, and no one remembers exactly just where it went, although sections of it are easy enough to spot.  We enjoyed a little thunder and lightning as we explored some of the terrain. 
  Check out the deep canyon-like watergroovesbehind the Skindiver formation:
  Smoke was an American original.  His cryptic  route thru the Granite  reminds me that there is a hidden American legacy that is not about war and profit.  It is incredible how there is always a way when the path seems least probable.  Flux got tricked into this downclimb as the water groove in the last picture just kept getting steeper as we descended:
the descent of flux
  We enjoyed a nice rainstorm as we climbed out of the formations, which felt nice in the heat.  Please, remember to play careful with fire on this holliday.
buttermilk highball
5:37 pm pdt

Sunday, July 2, 2006

Still There....
  Milo and I started off our high-country season a little late this year, only to discover that there is still plenty of snow in the mountains.  We had a good time "soloing" the Southeast Face of Mount Emmerson [13,204'], even though we found some running water at the crux and a big snowpatch about mid-way.  This is an excellent route that I have done three times now, finally someone came with me.  It is a long climb with over 3,000' of rockclimbing, with an approach of only a mile or two.  It appears to be gaining in popularity recently.
  Here is the snowpatch at the midpoint notch.  We were able to climb up the moat between the rock and the snow, with a few crazy overhanging  mixed moves done in approach shoes:
snowmoat on emmerson
   Above 12,000' or so is still frozen.   Here is a cool view of some high lakes around Paiute Pass taken from the summit arete of the climb:
way up above paiute pass
  Milo's space suit is prettier than mine.  He enjoyed the exellent stone on the upper pitches.  The climbing goes on forever, but we still made it down in time for lunch and this update.  Thanx for visitin' wormspew.....
milo on crack
3:50 pm pdt

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Disclaimer   The opinions offered here are mine.  I believe that sucsess on the peaks depends on trusting yourself.  If you do not have a trusting relationship with your body and mind, or if you are not sure, or if you are unwilling to provide the commitment, then you should probably stick with sport climbing and such.  To the mountain ecosystem, you are only a rich supply of nutrients, so step carefully!

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