Ghost Towns (and Historic Towns) of Mojave National Preserve

 

Written by Robert C. Jones

Kennesaw, Georgia

 

jone442@bellsouth.net

 

Home page of the author

 

Click here to purchase the accompanying booklet

 

Rock Springs, site of Camp Rock Springs

 

 

See also my "Nevada Ghost Towns", "Ghost Towns (and Historic Towns) of Arizona", "Ghost Towns (and Historic Towns) of California: Bodie, Bay Area, Mojave", "Ghost Towns of Death Valley", and "Ghost Towns (and Historic Towns) of New Mexico"

 

Published by Robert C. Jones

Copyright 2004, 2005, 2007, 2008

 

Robert Jones
P.O. Box 1775
Kennesaw, GA 30156

 

Table of Contents

Table of Contents. 2

Introduction. 3

Barnwell 5

Caruther’s Canyon (Giant Ledge Mine) 6

Cima. 8

Death Valley Mine  New 2008

Fort Piute  New 2008

Goffs. 14

Government Holes. 16

Ivanpah #1. 18

Ivanpah #3. 19

Kelso. 21

Lanfair. 23

Nipton. 25

Rock Springs (Camp Rock Springs) 27

Route 66  New 2008

Vanderbilt area. 35

Sources. 39

Notes. 40

Introduction

This is my third booklet on California ghost towns.  The first, Ghost Towns of Death Valley, reflects the results of 11 trips to Death Valley over a period of eleven years.  The second booklet examined a wider area, over a longer period of time –Bay Area, Bodie, and the Mojave.  This booklet returns to a more limited tableau – Ghost Towns (and Historic Towns) of Mojave National Preserve.

 

The first time that I visited Mojave National Preserve was in 1999, when I was looking for an alternate way to get from Death Valley to Kingman.  It was love at first sight – and the Preserve is now my second favorite vacation spot (next to Death Valley). 

 

Mojave National Preserve was established in 1994 through the California Desert Protection Act.  Its 1.6 million acres makes it the third largest entity in the National Park System (contiguous States).  Among its most popular sites are historic railroad towns, the Cima Dome, Providence Mountains State Recreation Area/Mitchell Caverns, the Kelso Dunes, the Mojave Road and (until recently), the most remote telephone booth in the United States.

 

Like its larger neighbor to the North (Death Valley), Mojave Preserve also has its share of ghost towns and abandoned mining camps.  Different people have different definitions of ghost towns.  Some are very narrow, such as “abandoned 19^th century mining towns”.  My definition is a bit broader – anyplace where people used to live or work, now abandoned, that shows extant signs of habitation.  So, 19^th century and 20^th century abandoned mining towns fit easily into that definition, but so do abandoned factories, mills, army camps, prisons, Missions, etc.  Perhaps “ghost site” would be a more appropriate nomenclature for this broader definition. 

 

I’ve also included in this booklet some sites that aren’t abandoned, but are smaller than in their heyday – Cima, Kelso, Nipton and Goffs are examples.  Whether these are true ghost towns, or are better described as historic towns, I leave to the reader to decide.

 

For the ghost towns and camps described in this booklet, I have defined several different classifications:

 

• DEAD: Meaning that the former mining camp or town is completely deserted, and has no inhabitants or businesses. Ivanpah #1 and Vanderbilt are examples.
• GHOST OF ITS FORMER SELF: Meaning that the population has decreased radically since the boom days, with just a few hardy souls keeping it alive. Kelso and Nipton are examples.
• ARRESTED DECAY: Meaning that a governmental or corporate body is attempting to prevent further decay of the site.  The Rock House at Rock Springs is an example.

 

Also regarding the ghost towns in this study, I have used a personal rating system (0 low; 10 high) to rank three categories in each ghost town.  These include:

 

• REMAINS: What is the quantity and quality of remaining boom-days structures in the town or area?
• ACCESSIBILITY: How easy is it to get to the site?  Paved roads or dirt?  Gasoline available within 50 miles?  
• EXPLORING: How accessible are the buildings in the town?  Posted "No Trespassing" areas are rated low; open areas in National Forests/Parks are rated high.

 

I hope this little photographic study proves interesting to fans of these lonely reminders of our American heritage.

 

- Robert Jones, Kennesaw, Georgia, June 2007

Barnwell

 

Background

Barnwell was a small railroad town, originally called Manvel after the onetime President of the Santa Fe Railroad.  The first railroad to reach here was the Nevada Southern Railway in 1893.  The NSR was purchased by the Santa Fe in 1902.  The Barnwell and Searchlight Railroad was completed in 1907 (later leased by the Santa Fe).  Prior to 1907, a stagecoach ran from Barnwell to Searchlight.   

 

According to Alan Henscher, quoted on Death Valley and Mojave historian Larry Vredenburgh’s Web page:

 

“Manvel served as the nearest railhead for several widely scattered mining camps, including Vanderbilt, Goodsprings, Crescent, and Montgomery. A shipment to the Montgomery mines, 125 miles northwest, for example, totaled 25 tons. The trade increased in the late 1890s, when the Copper World Mine was opened up and gold was discovered 20 miles to the east, at what became Searchlight, Nevada. By early 1898, Manvel supported a flour, grain, and lumber dealer, a general store, a hotel, a blacksmith, the post office, and a stage line running to Montgomery. A school district was organized in January, 1900.”[1]

 

Barnwell’s decline was rapid: fires decimated the town in 1908 and 1910; production in the mines that Barnwell served declined; and all railroad service ended in 1923.

What’s left to see

There are several residential buildings still left in Barnwell, but all are on private property.

 

 

Caruther’s Canyon (Giant Ledge Mine)

 

Background

Caruther’s Canyon makes a nice day-hike, as it provides interesting flora and fauna, and an abandoned mine (the Giant Ledge Mine).  The three mile roundtrip hike starts at a (wonderful) primitive campground, and climbs about 400 feet to the mine.  I don’t recommend driving beyond the campground – the road gets very rough very quickly.

What’s left to see

At the Giant Ledge Mine – a collapsed ore chute, and a couple of mine openings.  On the way from New York Mountains Road to the campground – interesting remains of a water tank and windmill.

 

If you get this far, you’re close to the trailhead for the hike up Caruther’s Canyon. 

 

Ruins of an ore chute at Giant Ledge Mine

Cima

 

Background

Cima, like nearby Kelso and Nipton, was a railroad town, formed c. 1906.  It originally served as a shipping center for gold and copper ore from the nearby Excelsior Mine (later, the Standard Mine), when 16-team wagons lumbered on the 10-mile route.  In time, it also served as a shipping center for nearby ranches, as well as a site for helper engines on the Las Vegas grade.  It was never a large town – the number of buildings standing in the 1920s probably weren’t much more numerous than what is there today.

What is left to see

There are several picturesque abandoned buildings (one looks like it might have been a gas station), as well as some railroad debris.  The post office/general store was built in the early 1960s.  The general store was open when I visited in 2007.  Great place to watch UP trains rumble through the Mojave.

 

 

 

Cima general store and post office

Death Valley Mine

 

Background

The following items regarding Death Valley Mine are from the Barstow Printer, written between 1911-1914.  They give a glimpse into life at an active mine in the Mojave in the early 20^th century, and also show two problems that mining operations may have to face – litigation, and fire.  The excerpts also show that an isolated mining camp could serve as a social center for area residents.

 

Mr. Alex Wright and Mrs. J. H. Cooper of the Death Valley mine, and a crowd of people spent a very pleasant evening with music and dancing (August 26, 1910)

 

A very pleasant surprise party, in honor of Miss Irene Panell [schoolteacher] was given at the Death Valley mine. Sandwiches, cake and ice cream were served. (June 2, 1911)

 

Death Valley Mining Co. shipped in a team of horses recently. Looks like they mean business (January 5, 1912)

 

Death Valley mine is working a force of men; car of oil just arrived. R. A. Salisbury, president of the company, recently arrived from Los Angeles. (January 26, 1912)

 

Alex Leitch is driving the big team at the Death Valley mine. (January 26, 1912)

 

Death Valley mine closed by litigation-ounce (once?) produced some high-grade ore, and buildings around it were built and furnished on high-grade plans. The bunk house has 40 rooms, steam heat, electric light, baths, etc., and cost $11,500. Manager's quarters cost $8,000 and reminds one of an emperor's palace. (April 19, 1912)

 

The Death Valley Mining Co., lost their engine houses and machinery by fire recently. By hard work they saved the gallows frame and etc. They have installed a gasoline hoist. (September 19, 1913)  (From http://vredenburgh.org/mining_history/; Barstow Printer excerpts copied by Ted R. Weasma)

What is left to see

Death Valley Mine is one of the great ghost sites in the Mojave.  Extant are two houses, a garage, an interesting industrial revolution-looking building, a lift hoist (which still has the levers on the lift mechanism!), a cabin, and much rubble over a wide area.

 

 

Fort Piute

 

Background

Fort Piute is one of several frontier forts built between Barstow and the Colorado River just after the Civil War to guard U.S. Mail routes (Camp Rock Springs is another).  According to the interpretive sign at the site:

 

“As many as eighteen enlisted men of Company “D,” 9^th U.S. Infantry once served duty here within the crumbling walls of “Fort Pah-Ute”.  Although never established as an official fort, “Pah-Ute Creek.” As it was commonly called, did house a small number of army troops from November 17, 1867 to May 3, 1868.”

 

What is left to see

There is little left at this particularly lonely site – an interpretive sign, some low walls, and some petroglyphs. 

 

The only way to get to Fort Piute from the west is to hike (about 5.5 miles roundtrip) from the trail head mentioned above (there is also a poor 4WD road that comes in from the US 95 side).  From the trail head, climb to the top of the ridge immediately to the east on the closed portion of the old Mojave Road.  Continue down the ridge on the other side, staying on what remains of the road.  Eventually, you’ll run into Piute Creek.  The trail continues to the left above the Creek.  Once on that trail, you’ll see Fort Piute in the distance.  Note: The return trip from the Fort up the closed portion of the Mojave Road is not for the faint of heart or body.

 

 

 

These low walls are all that is left of Fort Piute

Goffs

 

Background

Goffs was founded in 1883 as a railroad town.  In time, it acted as a siding, a turnaround for helper engines up from Needles, and a water station for thirsty steam locomotives.  The small town grew as it became a location for Santa Fe railroad workers to live.

 

It’s most prominent building, the 2,000-square foot school, operated from 1914-1937.  The school (and Goff’s itself) declined after 1931, when Route 66 was re-routed several miles to the south.  Also, as railroading technology changed, Goff’s importance as a water station declined. 

 

After a brief revival during World War II, Goffs went into a long decline.  Today, Goffs claims 23 inhabitants.  (For a definitive history of Goffs, see http://www.desertusa.com/mnp/mnp_goff.html)

What is left to see

Kelso has its depot, Nipton has its hotel, and Goffs has its fabulous Goffs Schoolhouse, restored at a cost of $150,000 in 1998.  The schoolhouse is open to visitors from time to time, as is the nearby outdoor Goffs museum.  The museum includes various old cars, farming and mining implements, and Route 66 and railroad memorabilia.

 

The Goffs General Store looked pretty forlorn when I was there.

 

Goffs General Store

 

Goffs Schoolhouse (1914-1937)

 

Part of the outdoor museum, with the schoolhouse on the left

 

1921 Buick.  Note the sign to Lanfair in the upper left corner.

 

Government Holes

Background

Government Holes was the site of a gun battle in 1925, incited by the tensions between homesteaders and cattle ranchers in the Lanfair Valley.  When the gunfight between J.W. Robinson and Matt Burts was over, both men were dead.

 

The NPS describes the situation that led up to the fight:

 

“The beginning of homesteading in the 1910s brought a new dynamic to land use. Homesteaders had to make a living off the land, including raising crops. They erected fences to keep cattle from trampling their fields, thereby removing some of the best grazing lands in the area from the public domain. As can be expected water, always in short supply, was a subject sure to create controversy. Most of the best water holes had been appropriated by the cattle companies, and bitter fights erupted over water use. In one situation, an old-fashion shootout at a well called Government Holes erupted that left two men dead. And some homesteaders resorted to cattle theft to put a good meal on the table. Eventually dry weather and poor land caused most homesteaders to leave the desert, leaving cattlemen again in control of the situation.”  (http://www.nps.gov/archive/moja/mojahtra.htm)

What’s left to see

While there was once a small town here, nothing is left now except two water tanks, an old corral, and a windmill.

 

 

Ivanpah #1

 

Background

Ivanpah was founded in 1870 to support mining operations in the Clark Mountains.  It was all but deserted by 1900.  Ivanpah is located NORTH of I-15 - note that there is also a railroad town named Ivanpah south of I-15 within the Mojave Preserve.

What is left to see

Not much.  There are a few crumbling walls, and some debris around the Spring.  It’s biggest claim to fame today is that it is the site of a geocache.

A note on getting there

We found Ivanpah a bit of a challenge to get to, so here are some tips:

• On maps, it may be listed as “Ivanpah Springs”
• I-15, Exit 289, Yates Well Road
• Head West from the Interstate.
• Turn right at the first road you come to
• Turn left on the dirt road that heads due West towards Clark Mountain.  Some maps list it as Coloseum or Colosseum Rd.
• After about 6 miles, look for a large flat area to your left (large enough to turn a tractor trailer around).  You’re there!  GPS coordinates:

·         Latitude N35° 32.430’

·         Longitude W115°  31.671’

 

 

Ivanpah Spring

Ivanpah #3

 

Background

There are two town sites in the Mojave Preserve with the name Ivanpah (and a third site briefly held the name in 1903/05).  The oldest site was in the Clark Mountains, and is described above.  The second extant site is located at a bend in the Ivanpah Road in the northeastern part of the Preserve. 

 

The California Eastern Railway was extended into the Ivanpah Valley (from Branwell) in 1902, and a small town called Ivanpah was established at its terminus.  In c. 1905, the post office moved from Ivanpah to Leastalk, at the junction of the California Eastern Railway and San Pedro, Los Angeles, and Salt Lake Railroad.  In 1908, most of Ivanpah #2 burned to the ground. 

 

In the mid 1920s, Leastalk changed its name to South Ivanpah, and then to Ivanpah.  The post office (and general store) hung on until 1966.

What’s left to see

The wonderful old Ivanpah General Store, now in the keeping of the National Park Service.  There are a couple of small occupied residences a couple of miles to the west of the store, but they probably don’t date back to the “old days”.

 

 

This abandoned building served as the Ivanpah General Store, until 1966 when it became a residence.  The NPS took it over in 2005.

Kelso

 

Background

Kelso came into existence in 1906 as a railroad town.  It provided water to thirsty steam engines, a place to hook on “helper” engines so that trains could successfully navigate the grade to nearby Cima, and (in 1924) a stopover for railroad crews at the Kelso Depot.  The Depot also served as a food stop for passenger trains, until after World War II.

What is left to see

The fabulous Kelso Depot has been reconditioned by the National Park Service, and is now the Mojave National Preserve Visitor’s Center.  Several buildings from the “old days” are left, including the old Post Office, the jail, and several houses and railroad buildings.  The town is still “alive”, as various Preserve personnel live there.

 

The Kelso Depot, abandoned by the UP in 1985, is now the Visitor Center for Mojave National Preserve

 

The remodeled Kelso Depot in October 2004

 

Lanfair

Background

Unlike many of the towns in the Mojave National Preserve that were based on mining or the railroad for their subsistence, Lanfair (and the broader Lanfair Valley) was definitely in the farming and ranching business.  Edwin Lanfair settled there in 1910, and became a successful farmer.  Others soon joined him – up to 175 people during the peak years in the late teens/early twenties of the 20^th century.

 

As described in the section on Government Holes, tension existed between the farming “homesteaders” and local ranchers.  Although wells existed in Lanfair itself, many Lanfair residents preferred to haul their water from Government Holes, adding to the tension.   

 

In time, the homesteaders left – the last farm was abandoned in 1930.  Among the reasons for Lanfair’s demise - a period of increasing drought.

What’s left to see

With the exception of one still occupied residence (posted private property), there is very little left of the old Lanfair.  Some scattered cement foundations and a couple of cement water tanks are all that is left of Lanfair proper.

 

 

 

 

Nipton

 

Background

Nipton was founded as a railroad town in 1905, serving area mines and ranchers.  The original railroad, the San Pedro, Los Angeles, and Salt Lake merged with the Union Pacific in 1910, and today, almost 100 years later, UP trains still rumble through the town. 

 

During the Silent Film era, the Hotel Nipton was a favorite haunt of film star Clara Bow, who owned a nearby ranch.  Her husband, Rex Bell, drove cattle to Nipton for shipment to stockyards.

 

In 1984/85, the Freeman family bought most of the town, and started to recondition it.  The RV park, in which we’ve stayed many times, was actually constructed in the late 1980s to house miners working at the nearby Morningstar Mine and others.  The miners are gone, but the camping area and hotel remain.

What is left to see

The must-see place in Nipton is the wonderful Nipton Hotel, reconditioned and open for business.  The (also) reconditioned general store dates to the 1940s.  In addition, there are various aging railroad buildings, including a now unused freight depot. 

 

Nipton is one of the choice spots in the Mojave for train watching – many UP freights pass through the town daily (and occasionally stop for engineer coffee breaks at the general store).  Nipton is also an excellent embarkation point for visits to the Mojave National Preserve.

 

The Nipton Hotel, once frequented by silent film star Clara Bow

 

 

Rock Springs (Camp Rock Springs)

Background

Military activity occurred here as early as 1860, but Camp Rock Springs was officially established in 1866.  It was a lonely, sparse place to live, as a plaque at the site indicates:

 

"To the United States soldiers at Camp Rock Spring – who guarded the U.S. Mail.  No glory there, nor much chance for military fame; but true patriots and heroes were they, to submit to such privations - Yet these are the nurseries of the Army, and from such hard schools we graduated a Grant, Sherman, Sheridan, and Thomas." (Brevet General James T. Rusling)

 

Water was always a problem.  Rock Springs itself only intermittently had water, and the poor quality of its water led to the first wells being dug at Government Holes, a mile away. 

 

Among the reasons for the establishment of Camp Rock Springs – to patrol the Mojave Road, protect the U.S. Mail, and to protect local citizens from potentially hostile Indians.  The camp was abandoned after only 17 months, because the mail routes changed.

 

Mining started in the area as early as 1865.

What’s left to see

The only thing left of Camp Rock Springs is a plaque and some interpretive panels. 

 

Above the springs (closest to the parking area with the rest room) is the Rock House, once occupied by World War I gas victim Bert Smith.  Some sources say that the rock house is made up of stones from Camp Rock Springs structures.  In the same area are various ruins (mining and ranching) and rubble.

 

 

All that remains of Camp Rock Spring is this plaque

 

Interpretive display at the Camp Rock Springs Site

 

The Rock House

 

Remains of mining activity

Route 66

Route 66 only touches the Mojave National Preserve between Goffs and Fenner, but a long, relatively unspoiled stretch of Route 66 runs just south of the Preserve from Fenner to Ludlow.  There are many abandoned houses, municipal buildings, gas stations, stores, and a fabulous old motel.  This side trip is well worth the detour from I-40.

 

According to a State of California kiosk:

 

Early alignments of Route 66 paralleled the railroad tracks to avoid steep grades.  Many towns along this stretch of road began as railroad water stops, and blossomed with small businesses offering hospitality and vital services to travelers.  Communities such as Essex, Cadiz Summit, Chambless and Amboy have been home to one room schoolhouses, train depots, cafes, motorcourts, gas stations and campgrounds.  Most are closed now, but here and there are remnants of the highway’s past glory.

Essex

According to the 1946 A Guidebook to Highway 66 by Jack D. Rittenhouse:

 

ESSEX. (Pop. 55; alt. 1,720'; gas; lunchroom; small grocery; post office.) Like so many of the small places along US 66 through the Mojave Desert, Essex chiefly serves the needs of the tourists.

 

For the next 100 miles, there will be scarcely any change in the scenery. Mountain ranges parallel the highway - each cluster of mountains having its own name. Far ahead lie the San Gabriel Mountains, beyond which lies the orange grove country which so many people consider the true California.[2]

 

Essex today has a handful of residents.  The café is closed.

 

 

Essex Café in 2008

Danby

Danby began as a camp for highway construction workers in the 1920s.  At one time, this small town had a garage, and (curiously) a functioning courthouse. 

 

When we were there in 2008, it appeared that one of the extant houses was still occupied.

 

The silent remains of the 1966 J & J Garage in Danby

Chambless

Chambless is sometimes referred to as Cadiz Junction, since the road south to Cadiz intersects Route 66 here.  However, most modern maps refer to the town as “Chambless, which is after Jim and Fannie Chambless, the builders of the Chambless store/garage which still stands today.

Chambless Store

Amboy

 

By far, the largest concentration of interesting buildings along this stretch of Route 66 is in Amboy, which includes the old Amboy School, Roy’s Motel and Café, an old church, and various buildings and structures.  Amboy also boasts the only functioning gas station between Fenner and Ludlow on Route 66.

 

Amboy was founded in 1883, and has served variously as a mining center, a railroad town, and a tourist stop on Route 66.  There are still a handful of residents living here.

 

Amboy Crater is just west of town.

 

Roy’s Motel and Café was built in the early 1940s.  Note one of the original cabins on the right.

 

The Amboy school was originally founded in 1903, and closed in 1999

 

 

Ludlow

Ludlow has a split personality.  It is part modern Interstate gas and food stop, and part a forgotten stretch of Route 66.  The gas stations and the café that serve Interstate 40 travelers are within site of the abandoned buildings on Route 66.

 

According to the 1946 A Guidebook to Highway 66 by Jack D. Rittenhouse:

 

LUDLOW. (Pop. 170; alt: 1,782'.) Although quite small, Ludlow appears to be a real town in comparison to the one-establishment places passed on the way here from Needles. It offers a garage, motels, cafe, and gas station. Ludlow is still a busy little center, providing supplies for nearby mines. At one time, narrow-gauge railroads ran north from here to Death Valley mines.

 

US 66 continues westward through the desert. To many easterners, the desert is a terrifying thing, but to many who frequent the region the desert is a thing of majestic beauty. There are many desert lovers, who find its scenery, minerals, history and pioneer lore a fascinating interest.[3]

 

 

Abandoned buildings along old Route 66 in Ludlow

Vanderbilt area

Background

Vanderbilt was a thriving gold mining town in the 1890s, serving the nearby Gold Bronze and Boomerang mines.  One of its claims to fame is that Virgil Earp once owned a saloon there.  The difficulty of mining in the area and the lack of water were among the reasons that led to the town’s demise. (Photo to right: Head frame in Vanderbilt)

 

Just over the hill from Vanderbilt are the remains of the Portal Mine, and Goldome.  The latter especially is a much later mining operation.  It was assumedly still functioning in the early 1990s, as I’ve seen a reference to its operation after the Desert Protection Act was passed in 1994. 

What’s left to see

The huge Goldome site has some of the most impressive mining remains anywhere in the U.S. (equal to the huge abandoned mills at Silver City, NV, Gold Hill, NV, and Bodie, CA).  The site includes a huge conveyor system, a cyanide leaching facility, and many intact buildings with lots of interior paraphernalia still present.

 

The next site NE of Goldome is the Portal Mine Site, which has scant mill ruins, and a large water tank that evidently was later used for the storage of explosives.

 

Just north of the Portal Site are the ruins of Vanderbilt itself.  I’m guessing that the extensive dugout house (two chimneys) and the area around it are from the original 1890s mining town.  The head frame (shown on the previous page) is probably from later mining activity.

 

 

 

Extensive remains at Goldome

 

 

 

Vanderbilt Site

This dugout has two chimneys, and lots of space inside, as the photo below shows

 

 

Sources

• A Guidebook to Highway 66 by Jack D. Rittenhouse (1946; reprinted by University of New Mexico Press, 1989)
• The Historical Mining Towns of the Eastern Mojave Desert  by Alan Hensher, (2005, Robert E. Reynolds editor, Old Ores, Mining History in the Eastern Mojave Desert: California State University , Desert Studies Consortium and LSA Associates, Inc. pages 22-27)
• Later Mining History of the Mescal Range, Ivanpah Mountains and south Clark Mountain (1996, Larry M. Vredenburgh) (http://vredenburgh.org/mining_history/)
• Mojave National Preserve: Ranching
• (http://www.nps.gov/archive/moja/mojahtra.htm)
• Mojave Preserve: A Visitor’s Guide, by Cheri Rae & John McKimmey (Olympus Press, 1999)
• The Silence and the Sun by Joe de Kehoe (2007, Trails End Publishing Company)
• http://www.nipton.com/history.html
• Color photos by Robert Jones