Ghost Towns of Death Valley - Western Side

 

Written by Robert C. Jones

Kennesaw, Georgia

 

jone442@bellsouth.net

 

Click here to return to the "Ghost Towns of Death Valley" home page

 

Click here to purchase the booklet and/or DVD slideshow

 

 

 

See also my "Nevada Ghost Towns", "Ghost Towns (and Historic Towns) of Arizona", "Ghost Towns (and Historic Towns) of California: Bodie, Bay Area, Mojave", "Ghost Towns (and Historic Towns) of Mojave National Preserve" and "Ghost Towns (and Historic Towns) of New Mexico"

 

 

Broken Pick, Trail Canyon, Death Valley

 

Published by Robert Jones

 

Copyright 1996, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008

 

 Robert Jones
P.O. Box 1775
Kennesaw, GA 30156


Table of Contents

Table of Contents. 2

Introduction. 3

Aguereberry Camp/Eureka Mine/Harrisburg. 5

Argenta Mine. 7

Ashford Mill 8

Ballarat 9

Barker Ranch. 11

Broken Pick/Trail Canyon. 14

Christmas Mine. 16

Darwin. 17

Eagle Borax Works/Shorty Harris Grave. 20

Galena Canyon. 21

Goldbelt 22

Harmony Borax Works. 24

Journigan’s Mill 25

Keystone Mine (Lotus Mine) 26

Lippincott Mine. 29

Lost Burro Mine. 30

Old Stovepipe Wells. 30

Owl Hole Springs/Black Magic & New Deal Mines. 31

Panamint City. 33

Queen of Sheba Mine/Carbonate. 34

Skidoo. 36

Starr’s Mill 38

Tucki Mountain. 39

Ubehebe Mine. 40

Warm Springs Camp/Gold Hill Mill 41

Wildrose Canyon Kilns. 43

Sources. 44

 


Introduction

“I am unable to give all the required information.  Have been in this mining district 3 years but never was at the County Seat.  Am within 12 miles of the great Death Valley, and if I remain here much longer, will be nearer some other death valley.”  (Isaac G. Messic, in an 1877 application for a post office for Panamint City (National Archives))

 

1925 photo shows the hazards of travel in Death Valley (from the collection of Juanita Kasson Ingram)

 

The photos in this portfolio were taken in and around the Western[1] part of Death Valley from 1996-2008.  Death Valley is truly an amazing place.  It contains the lowest point in the Western Hemisphere (Badwater, -282 feet below sea level), but is surrounded by extremely tall mountain peaks (including Telescope Peak, at 11,049 feet above sea level!).  The park itself contains 3,336,000 acres (90% wilderness), making it the largest national park in the contiguous United States.

 

Death Valley is also, of course, one of the driest and hottest spots in the world.  Average rainfall per year is only 1.65 inches!  The average high temperature in July is 116.2!  (The highest temperature ever recorded there was 134 degrees). 

 

Death Valley has a fascinating mining history.  Miners first passed through here in 1849 during the California gold rush, not realizing that there were vast deposits of gold and borax just waiting to be taken out of the mountains and Valley floor.  By the late 19th century though, large scale gold and borax mining operations were in full swing.  In the 20th century, talc mining would join borax as the two most important minerals mined in the Death Valley area.

 

Ghost towns in general are fast decaying away, the victims of weather, vandals, and owner's neglect.  The 100+ ghost towns and mining camps within and near Death Valley are probably in better shape than most because of the preservative affect of the extremely dry climate, and the protection offered by Death Valley being a national park (and, earlier, a national monument).  However, the ghost towns here are slowly fading away.

 

In some cases, whole towns (such as Harrisburg or Kasson) have disappeared so completely that it is almost as if they never existed.  One should keep in mind, though, the temporary nature of many of these boom and bust mining towns.  Harrisburg, for example, was primarily a tent city.  When it went bust, the miners moved the tents to new claims.  Even in more substantial towns with wooden buildings, it wasn't unusual to completely move the buildings to a new area after the town went bust.

 

In general, the most common extant ruins in Death Valley include mill ruins, metal or stone mine buildings, mine openings, and metal water towers.  There are few mercantile or residential structures remaining (Rhyolite and Aguereberry Camp being two exceptions).  The best-preserved towns are post-1950s company mining camps (Ibex Springs, Broken Pick, Warm Springs, Keystone Mine, etc.)

 

In this portfolio, I have defined several different types of ghost towns:

 

*      DEAD: Meaning that the former mining camp or town is completely deserted, and has no inhabitants or businesses. Chloride Cliff is an example.

*      GHOST OF ITS FORMER SELF: Meaning that the population has decreased radically since the boom days, with just a few hardy souls keeping it alive. Ballarat and Rhyolite are examples.

*      ARRESTED DECAY: Meaning that a governmental or corporate body is attempting to prevent further decay of the site.  Harmony Borax Works is an example.

 

Throughout this study, I have used a personal rating system (0 low; 10 high) to rank three categories in each ghost town.  These include:

 

*      REMAINS: What is the quantity and quality of remaining boom-days structures in the town or area?

*      ACCESSIBILITY: How easy is it to get to the site? 

*      EXPLORING: How accessible are the buildings in the town?  Posted "No Trespassing" areas are rated low; open areas in National Forests/Parks are rated high.

 

This booklet focuses primarily on what there is to see in the Death Valley ghost towns today, as opposed to extensively examining the history of the sites.  I hope this little photographic study proves interesting to fans of these lonely reminders of our American heritage.

 

- Robert Jones, Kennesaw, Georgia

Aguereberry Camp/Eureka Mine/Harrisburg

 

Founded/abandoned:

1905/1945

Population:

1905: 300 (Harrisburg)

Ghost town type:

Dead

Mining type:

Gold

Location:

On the west-central side of Death Valley, between Skidoo and Wildrose Spring

Remains:

10

Accessibility:

7

Exploring:

10

Background:

The two most famous prospectors in Death Valley mining lore, Shorty Harris and Pete Aguereberry, found the gold strike at Harrisburg in 1905.  By 1906, the tent city of Harrisburg had vanished, as miners flocked to the new finds at nearby Skidoo. 

 

Pete Aguereberry, however, continued to mine his Eureka Mine until his death in 1945.  In later years, it is said that he made more money giving tourists guided mine tours than he did from actual mining.

What is left to see:

Harrisburg has entirely vanished, as it was mostly a tent city.  However, the remains of Pete Aguereberry's camp and mining operation (Eureka Mine) are among the most well preserved ghost town remains in Death Valley.  Beds, refrigerators and stoves remain in place as if Old Pete just stepped out for a trip to the local store. 

 

Aguereberry's Camp

 

 

 

 

Cashier Mill (c. 1917)

 

Eureka Mine

Argenta Mine

 

Founded:

1924

Ghost town type:

Dead

Location:

From Emigrant Junction on State Highway 190, travel about 13 miles S on Emigrant Canyon Road.  On your left will be a road that heads back to a small maintenance area.  A dirt road heads to the NE just as you enter the maintenance area.  Take that road about a mile, and you’ll see the Argenta Mine ruins (Alternate route – drive down the wash from the end (NE) of the maintenance yard, until you see the mine ruins)

Remains:

5

Accessibility:

8 (high clearance)

Exploring:

10

Background:

*      George C. Crist started significant operations here in 1924, although there are extant references to a 19th century mine by the same name.

What is left to see:

Foundations of numerous buildings; several old cars; a large water tank; mine openings.

 

Argenta Mine

Main Street at the Argenta Mine shows the foundations of a bunkhouse (foreground)

Ashford Mill

 

Founded/abandoned:

c. 1915 (mine established 1907)

Ghost town type:

Dead

Mining type:

Gold

Location:

Southern part of Death Valley, 25 miles E of Shoshone

Remains:

5

Accessibility:

10

Exploring:

10

Background:

Ashford Mill was established c. 1915 to process ore from the nearby Golden Treasure mine.  Curiously enough, the mill shut down after processing a few tons of ore, and was never reopened.

 

The mill site is easily accessed, as it is about 100 yards off of Route 178.

What is left to see:

One concrete mill building; concrete pilings from the mill.

 

 

Mill ruins at Ashford Mill

Ballarat

 

Founded:

c. 1890s

Population:

c. 1900:  400/500

Ghost town type:

Ghost of its former self

Mining type:

Gold

Location:

Outside of the Park boundaries, on the western side

Remains:

7

Accessibility:

5

Exploring:

3

Background:

*      Named after the mining district in Australia

*      '49ers camped near here on their way to California

*      Prospector "Shorty" Harris died here in 1934

*      Post office closed in 1917

*      Last resident died in 1968 ("Seldom Seen Slim")

*      Briefly a stopover for Charles Manson and his “family” in 1969

What is left to see:

Ballarat was completely dead for a period after the death of its last resident in 1968, but there are several residents now, and a small "General Store" which caters to tourists.  There are several intact, abandoned buildings (made mostly out of wood and clay), as well as a maintained graveyard.  Ballarat is often the embarkation point for the 10 hour round trip hike to the ghost town Panamint City.

 

Charles Manson’s truck – abandoned in Ballarat in 1969

 

Ballarat Jail/Morgue.  According to “Lightfoot Louie” (town caretaker), the building was built in 1900 for $336.50.

 

Assay Office, used by Fred Grey.  Charles Manson’s “family” stayed in this house briefly before leaving for the Barker Ranch in 1969.

 

“This was the home of Fred Grey – Assayer, miner and honorary mayor of Ballarat.  He lived here 51 years.  He had a college education (USC) in mining, engineering and assaying.” (“Lightfoot Louie”)

 

School house – “The first school marm was Mrs. Mary Bigelow for the first and only school year 1899-1900.  Frank “Shorty” Harris lived here several years before his death in 1934.” (“Lightfoot Louie”)

Barker Ranch

 

Ghost town type:

Dead

Location:

A little over 21 miles from Ballarat (south on Wingate Road for 15 miles, then east up Goler Wash)

Remains:

10

Accessibility:

3 (recommend 4-wheel drive up Goler Wash, although the “falls” have been much improved recently)

Exploring:

10

Background

 

Not all of the myths and legends about Death Valley have to do with Argonauts and miners from long ago.  In October of 1969, well within the living memory of many of us, Charles Manson and his “family” were apprehended in two raids at the Barker Ranch on the outskirts of Death Valley.  (Photo: The Barker Ranch in 2007)

 

Manson and his followers had moved into the area as early as summer of 1968, and sporadically inhabited the Barker Ranch and the nearby Myers Ranch (owned by the grandmother of one of the “family” members).  Curiously, Manson met several times with Mrs. Barker, who lived at Indian Ranch, north of Ballarat.  She had given her permission for Manson to use the Barker Ranch, but of course wasn’t aware of the crimes committed by Manson and his family.

 

The first of the two raids occurred on October 10, 1969, when a combined force of National Park Service Rangers, California Highway Patrol officers, and representatives from the Inyo County district attorney’s office launched a quasi-military raid on the Barker Ranch.  Among the 13 people (mostly women) captured in the raid was Lynette “Squeaky” Fromme, who would later try to assassinate President Gerald Ford (September 5, 1975).  The second raid occurred on October 12, 2007, and involved National Park Service Rangers, California Highway Patrol officers, and deputy sheriffs from Inyo County.  Among those captured in this second raid was the leader of the “family”, Charles Manson.  He was found hiding under a vanity in the small Barker Ranch bathroom.  No shots were fired, and no one was hurt during the two raids.

 

Ironically, Manson and his followers were not apprehended for the Tate/LaBianca/Hinman murders, but rather for the arson of a Death Valley “Michigan Articulating Loader” near the Lippincott Mine a month before (as well as various auto theft, stolen property and firearms charges).  It wasn’t until mid-November of 1969 that the “family” became prime suspects in the aforementioned murders (one jailed “family” member had spilled the beans to her cell mates). 

 

In time, Manson and various family members would be convicted of 9 murders, and sentenced to death or life imprisonment.  In June of 1972, the U.S. Supreme Court temporarily ended the death penalty and all death sentences were commuted to life imprisonment.

 

For an in depth account of the capture of Manson and his “family”, see the indispensable Desert Shadows: A true story of the Charles Manson Family in Death Valley by Bob Murphy (Sagebrush Press, 1993).

What’s left to see

The bathroom where Charles Manson was captured

 

The Barker Ranch today is pretty much intact.  The kitchen and dining room still have furniture in them, and the famous bathroom where Manson was apprehended is still intact (although the vanity is gone).  The kitchen also has a set of shelves that contain notes from various people who have visited the site over the years.  One recent note stated that “I just wanted to see if I could figure out what was in Charlie’s mind”.  A nearby bunkhouse made of railroad ties remains in good shape.  The site also has a picnic table.

 

One of my favorite features of the Barker Ranch are the two signs pointing to rest facilities – if you follow them, they lead to an outdoor toilet with no walls.  Luckily, the Barker Ranch is in a particularly isolated part of Death Valley. 

 

The road to the Myers Ranch is closed, and it is posted private property.

 

A note on the directions:  As you climb Goler Wash and near the top, you’ll pass the large, abandoned Keystone Mine on the right.  About 1.2 miles past that, you’ll make a hard left through Sourdough Spring.  After climbing the short hill, take the road to the right to get to the Barker Ranch, not the road that has the DVNP sign.

 

Bunkhouse

Barker Ranch from the ridge to the north

Kitchen

Very outdoor plumbing

Broken Pick/Trail Canyon

 

Founded:

1950s

Ghost town type:

Dead

Mining type:

Tungsten

Location:

9.5 miles W from the West Side Road, in Trail Canyon

Remains:

10

Accessibility:

1

Exploring:

10

Background

Broken Pick Served as a company town for mining operations in Trail Canyon.

What’s left to see

Some of the more substantial “town” remains in Death Valley National Park, including several buildings, an abandoned mobile home, and an outhouse with an intact toilet seat.

 

View of several remaining structures at the Broken Pick site

 

 

Christmas Mine

 

Founded/abandoned:

Late 19th century – 1970s

Ghost town type:

Dead

Mining type:

Silver

Location:

From Emigrant Junction on State Highway 190, travel about 17.4 miles on Emigrant Canyon Road.  You’ll see a dirt road going off to the east.  Take this road about 1.6 miles until you see the outhouse.

Remains:

3

Accessibility:

6 (high clearance – 4WD would be helpful in a few spots)

Exploring:

10

 

Background:

*      Silver mining occurred here on and off from the 19th century to the 1970s

 

What is left to see:

A two-seater outhouse; the roof frame of a cabin; an abandoned cyanide canister.

 

The only remaining structure at the Christmas Mine town site – a two-seater outhouse

 

Collapsed bunk house

Darwin

 

Founded:

1874

Ghost town type:

Ghost of its former self (has a post office)

Population:

1877: 2,000

2000: 59

Mining type:

Silver, lead, zinc

Location:

Just outside of DVNP on West-central side, 5.5 miles off of SR 190

Remains:

10

Accessibility:

10 (paved road access)

Exploring:

2 (mostly private property)

Background:

Founded in 1874 (Post Office, 1875), Darwin had a population of 2,000 by 1877.  The silver mines declined soon after that, and Darwin declined.  A second boom occurred from 1937-1951, when the Anaconda Corporation mined lead and zinc here.

 

From 1926-1937, Darwin was the western gateway into Death Valley, and experienced a small tourist boom.  In 1937, SR 190 was completed, bypassing the old mining town.  The old road from Darwin to Darwin Falls is still passable, albeit in generally poor condition.

What is left to see:

The main intersection in town – Main and Market Streets – has interesting buildings on all four corners, including an old post office, a dance hall, the old school, and abandoned residences.

 

According to the 2000 census, there are 40 occupied households in the town, with a total population of 59.  There is an operating post office in Darwin.

 

The most interesting ruins are posted private property – the Darwin Mines property is being maintained for potential future mining operations (similar to Ryan).  There are 20+ buildings on the Darwin Mine property, but they are not open for exploration.

 

Darwin Dance Hall (a.k.a. Miner’s Union Hall, Crosson’s Corner)

Old Darwin post office/store

Old schoolhouse

Maintained Darwin Mines buildings

 

This 1897 post office map (National Archives) shows Darwin in relation to Keeler, Modock (an 1870s silver town), and Ballarat.  The text says “From Modock to Ballarat there is only a trail, but a wagon road could be made with about 1000 dollars. I mark the place where blasting would be necessary with a X.”

 

This page from the National Archives shows the Darwin postmasters from 1928-1960.

Eagle Borax Works/Shorty Harris Grave

 

Founded:

1882

Ghost town type:

Dead

Mining type:

Borax

Location:

West Side Road, 12 miles from northern intersection with Badwater Rd.

Remains:

1

Accessibility:

7

Exploring:

10

Background

Isadore Daunet mined Borax here from 1882-1884.  He eventually went bankrupt, and committed suicide in 1884.

What is left to see

A partially processed pile of Borax.  About half a mile from the Borax Works is the grave of famous Death Valley prospector Shorty Harris and his friend Jim Dayton.

 

Shorty Harris grave site

Galena Canyon

 

Ghost town type:

Dead

Mining type:

Talc

Location:

4+ miles W from the West Side Road, in Galena Canyon

Remains:

8

Accessibility:

4

Exploring:

10

Background

*      Includes mine remains from Bonney Talc Mine, the Mammoth Mine, and the White Eagle Mine

*      Galena Canyon may have been the escape route for the 49ers saved by William Lewis Manly and John Rogers

What’s left to see

Large tanks (one contained diesel fuel, one contained ammonium nitrate) of the Mammoth Mine, on a high cliff with a spectacular view of Death Valley; a small office (White Eagle Mine); an impressive ore-loading chute, that still has talc in the chutes (White Eagle Mine)

 

White Eagle Talc Mine ore chute

 

Tanks used to hold ingredients to create explosives at Mammoth Mine

White Eagle Talc Mine office

Goldbelt

 

Founded/abandoned:

1904, 1915, 1950s

Ghost town type:

Dead

Mining type:

Gold, tungsten, talc

Location:

From Teakettle Junction, travel a little over 14 miles south on Hunter Mountain Road, and then look for one of two roads that head southeast toward Goldbelt Spring.  Goldbelt is located less than a mile after turning off of Hunter Mountain Road.

Remains:

3

Accessibility:

4 (recommend 4-wheel drive)

Exploring:

10

Background

Gold was found near Goldbelt Spring in 1904 by famed Death Valley prospector Shorty Harris.  Harris also discovered tungsten in 1915.  In the 1950s, a small talc mine operated near the spring.

What’s left to see

All of the remains left at Goldbelt are from the 1950s talc mine.  The remains include three collapsed shacks, one dugout cabin, the remains of a water delivery system from the springs, a corral, and an abandoned vehicle.  The nearby Calmet Mine has an abandoned ore  (wollastonite) chute.

 

In the late 1980s, two of the shacks and an outhouse were still standing.  All are gone or collapsed in 2007.

 

This 1987 photo by Michael Hirsch (from Berg am Irchel, Switzerland) shows two of the three shacks still standing.  Michael’s motorcycle broke down here in 1987 – a long way from anywhere! 

 

One of the collapsed shacks (2007 photo)

Calmet Mine

Harmony Borax Works

 

Founded/abandoned:

1882/1888

Ghost town type:

Arrested Decay

Mining type:

Borax

Location:

1.5 miles N of Furnace Creek Ranch

Remains:

5

Accessibility:

10

Exploring:

8

Background:

Borax, used as a cleaning agent for clothes, as well as other industrial purposes, was one of the main ores mined and processed in Death Valley.   The Borax was scooped up from the Valley floor by Chinese workers, hauled to the Harmony Borax Works, and processed into borax crystals.  From there, the crystals were hauled by the famous 20 Mule Teams to Mojave, 165 miles away.  The Works shut down every summer, because the extreme heat in Death Valley interfered with the refining process.

What is left to see:

The site is now maintained by the National Park Service, although it was originally preserved by the United States Borax & Chemical Corporation, a successor of the original owners.  The shells of two outlining buildings can be seen, as well as remains of the mill itself.  Two wagons and a water tank from an original 20 Mule Team stand on the site.  Also, two-foot tall Borax "haystacks" still stand  about 3 miles west of the site.   

 

Coleman – the nearby town that housed the workers

Harmony Borax Works

Borax and water wagons pulled by the famous "20 Mule Teams"

c. 1890s 20-mule team (Stanley Paher collection)

Borax "haystacks", still visible after over 100 years on the Death Valley floor!

"Old Dinah", a steam engine that was briefly used to haul ore to railheads.  "Dinah" could travel 3.5 miles per hour, and broke down often!  The engine is now located at Furnace Creek Ranch.

Journigan’s Mill

Founded/abandoned:

1937/1967

Ghost town type:

Dead

Mining type:

Gold mill (cyanide)

Location:

6.6 miles from SR190 on Emigrant Canyon Road

Remains:

6

Accessibility:

10 (all paved roads)

Exploring:

10

 

Background

Journigan’s Mill was a gold mill (cyanide) that operated from 1937-1967.  Its name came from its original owner, Roy Journigan.

What’s left to see

Two large chemical tanks (compare to Galena Canyon), several concrete cyanide tanks, various rubble, including 4 old cars.

 

 

 

Keystone Mine (Lotus Mine)

 

Ghost town type:

Dead

Mining type:

Gold

Location:

About 19.4 miles from Ballarat (S on Wingate Road for 15 miles, then 4.4 miles east up Goler Wash)

Remains:

10

Accessibility:

3 (recommend 4-wheel drive up Goler Wash, although the “falls” have been much improved recently)

Exploring:

10

Background

 

The first mining in the area is said to have been done by Carl Mengel (a friend of Shorty Harris).  In 1935, the property was acquired by Lotus Mines.

In the 1980s, the Keystone Mine operated a gold mine here.  Most of the remains date from that later operation.

 

According to the Sierra Club website, the stone cabin is part of the BLM Adopt-A-Cabin Program, and is periodically fixed up by interested campers.  There are also rumors that mining may begin again in this area.

What’s left to see

Among the most extensive mining camp remains in or near Death Valley National Park (Keystone Mine is about 1.2 miles from the DVNP border).  In the area just off of Goler Wash are several standing buildings, including the heretofore mentioned stone cabin.  There are also 4 abandoned travel trailers, mill ruins, mining equipment, and much debris.  Far up the canyon to the south is the actual entrance to the Keystone Mine.  The mine had a 2,800-foot inclined rail-tram that carried ore down to Goler Wash.

 

 

Interior of stone cabin at the Keystone Mine.  The sign says “We like to camp here.  Do not vandalize!”

 

There are various other mine camp ruins scattered along Goler Wash, as the photos below show.

 

 

Remains of 1920s gold mill site

Newman Mine Office

Bottom of cable tram from the Lestro Mountain Mine (located near Newman Mine Office)

Lippincott Mine

 

Founded:

1906 (Lead King Mine)

Ghost town type:

Dead

Mining type:

Lead

Location:

10 miles S of Teakettle Junction

Remains:

3

Accessibility:

2

Exploring:

10

Background

While this mine was founded in 1906, the largest operations occurred from 1940 – 1953 when the site was leased by George Lippincott.  The lead mined here was smelted at Bonnie Claire (Lippincott Smelter).  This was also the site where Charles Manson and several of his followers torched a Death Valley National Park road grader in 1969.

What’s left to see

An abandoned water truck, a washing machine, and wood and concrete rubble are all that mark this especially lonely site.  The even sparser remains of the Homestake Mine can be found about a mile away near the Homestake Camping Area.

 

Scant remains at Lippincott Mine

Lost Burro Mine

 

Founded/abandoned:

1907/1970s

Ghost town type:

Dead

Mining type:

Gold

Location:

About 4 miles W from Teakettle Junction

Remains:

7

Accessibility:

3

Exploring:

10

Background:

The great name comes from a story that says that the original founder of the mine (Bert Shively) picked up a gold-laced rock to throw at some stray burros.  Heavy operations at this mine came and went in various decades, including 1912-1917, 1928, and the 1970s.

What is left to see:

A wood frame cabin, a dugout cabin, mill ruins, and an outhouse.  Note:  The road from Hunter Mountain Road to this mine is in VERY bad shape.

 

Old Stovepipe Wells

Founded/abandoned:

late 19th century

Ghost town type:

Dead

Location:

North-central part of Death Valley, east of Stovepipe Wells Village

Remains: