Some day I'll get farther on the famous Kalalau Trail – or simply "Na Pali" – than Hanakapi'ai Beach and Hanakapi'ai Falls, but it hasn't happened yet. On our August 2005 visit with Bill and Elizabeth we did manage the Hanakapi'ai Falls, a splendid hike itself, and later in the week B & E pushed over 5 miles down the Kalalau Trail towards Hanakoa, but this trip turned out to be more about separating myth from reality on how to hike this world-renowned stretch of coastline.

The two miles in to Hanakapi'ai Beach is mostly a 650' climb followed by a steeper, but equal, drop. The trail was well traveled the day we went – a Tuesday no less – and we were amazed at the number of people who do the four-mile RT in flip-flops with a towel around their neck, some without even water, as if strolling to a neighborhood beach. Some of them looked pretty spanked on the climb out later that afternoon.

At Hanakapi'ai Beach, you cross the river and then turn upstream, and the trail becomes more narrow. We crossed the river four or five more times before reaching a stunning pool with a very tall falls.

Although we counted more than 40 people going into Hanakapi'ai Falls – as we were coming back out – we seemed to hit a seam at the Falls itself. There were only two people there we when arrived, with a few more straggling in as we ate lunch and swam under the falls. So the messages is: leave the parking lot at Ke'e Beach early – we were on the trail by 8:30 or so – if you want your experience at the falls to be more wilderness and less a Los Angeles public pool on the 4th of July.

Hike Photos

Comments on The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook©, 5th Ed. — pg. 186
Our mileage was a bit less than the book. The hike to Hanakapi'ai Beach is a bit under 2 miles and the side-trip to Hanakapi'ai Falls was closer to 1.6 miles, for a total of 7 RT, not 8. The side trip up to the falls is indeed much tougher than the Kalalau Trail before it. There is a sign about 100 yards downstream of the falls that declares the end of the trail and prohibits you to go to the pool itself due to the danger of falling rock. This was soundly ignored, although on the way out we passed a group that was having a robust discussion of the merits and dangers of proceeding.

During our stay we discussed a number of options for hiking the length of the Kalalau Trail, including the Hanakoa Falls and "Big Pool" side trips, which are only allowed by permit and are assumed to be overnight hikes. In talking to local friends and an excursion company, by the end of our stay we had determined that the boat tour companies won't drop off or pick up anyone from Kalalau Beach – they claim it's illegal, but that doesn't seem to be the case. It may be more a matter of it cutting into their trade: paid excursions. However, private boat owners will drop you off, although they won't actually land on the beach – so you have to wade ashore. Next trip.