I was going to put a number of subjects together in this posting. But it would
have been a very long entry. Instead I will work through various topics in individual postings. It has been a very busy 2
weeks.
Lubumbashi
I went to Lubumbashi with the Embassy's Public Affairs Officer (PAO). I had made
arrangements for an Embassy family to care for Sydney -- her bags were packed! She had to wait for her "pick up"
at 8 a.m. I left home at 6 a.m. The drive to the airport at this early hour is very interesting.
There isn't much motor traffic; the microbuses and taxis are just beginning to start the day. The foot traffic, however, is
incredible -- there's a steady stream of people/workers and children in their school uniforms flowing into town.
On the airport road, we had to pull over once for a large motorcade (Bill's driver advised that it was President Kabila) to
pass. Upon arrival at the airport, I was met by the State expeditor; my bags went through the x-ray machines and he
took my passport & tickets to check me in and do whatever else. I waited in the VIP lounge. I used my time
wisely...I worked on an "Easy French Reader," completing the exercises to help me improve my comprehension.
The flight was on time and pleasant. Almost full but not crowded. We had one stop in Mbuji-Mayi
for a "passenger exchange." I'm told Mbuji-Mayi is the center of diamond mining. I'm told diamonds are often found on
top of the ground here. I didn't see any on the runway!
We arrived in Lubumbashi at 12:45 p.m., which surprised me because my iternerary said I'd arrive at
14:00. So, I asked the fellow next to me, "ou sommes nous?" I'm sure he thought -- "dumb American." But
he was pleasant and reassured me that I should get off the plane. The speaker system is worse, not better, than those
on US planes. Just to be sure, at the exit, I asked the flight attendent, "C'est Lubumbashi." She giggled and
said yes. I said, "donc, je vais departer."
The PAO, who went to Lubumbashi the previous day, met me at the airport. Once again, I was wisked into
the VIP lounge. This is the life!
We then checked into Planet Hollybloom (no misspelling and not kidding). We stayed in the
brand new section but the PAO told me the older rooms are named, "Demi Moore," "Bruce Willis," "Arnold Schwarzenegger," etc.
Later that afternoon, we met with the Lubumbashi American community -- a "town hall meeting."
The Counsel and another staff person from the American Embassy - Lusaka (Zambia) led the meeting. Because Lusaka is only a
few short hours by car (and the roads are good), many Americans use the Lusaka Embassy for consular services. Good teamwork!
During the night there was a strong rain storm -- it's rainy season south of the Equator. Waking
at 3 a.m., there was no electricity. I fretted because I've lived in developing countries before, I knew I should have brought
my Grant Thornton flashlight! I finally read for a while by the light of my cell phone and then dropped off to sleep
again.
On Saturday a.m., Dr. Radja - a Congolese educator and 'activist' for development -- took the PAO and
me to a prison (rehibilitative) on the outskirts of town. I have pictures of the challenging road we had to travel
but, the cable I need to upload them to my computer is in our HHE shipment (not expect to arrive until April/May). So I'll
have to add them later. No pictures at the prison.
The Embassy awarded Dr. Radja a grant to teach the basics of democracy & human rights to the prisoners.
The prison has many barracks for male prisoners and one barracks for female prisons. There was a very cute two month
old baby with his mom and another pregnant woman in the women's barracks. The male and female populations are separated
only by guards. There are a total of 476 prisoners -- the majority of which are still awaiting sentencing.
I read a speech prepared for me by the Embassy's Public Diplomacy Staff (in French). Dr. Radja translated
into Swahili. Dr. Radja also gave them "gifts" from other donors: checker boards, cups, spoons, bowls, some sports
shirts, a volleyball & net, a scoccer ball, and playing cards. After our presentation, one fellow (I assume a prisoner)
ran across the compound with one of the checker boards, advising everyone that he is the champion! It was refreshing!
We also visited two English classes while at the prison. One of the professors of English is also
a prisoner. In English I said, "Hello, How are you?" The classes responded in chorus: "I am fine." "My name is
Linda." One inmate responded, "My name is Dimi." The books they use as a basis for the English lessons must be
very old because, in one of the classes, the professor had writen on the chalkboard, "How are you?" with one response listed
as "I'm in the pink."
From the prison, we met the director of the new Lubumbashi branch of the Congo American Language Institute
(CALI) for a picnic with her English clubs. The PAO introduced me and I introduced (in English) a documentary about
August 1963 "The March on Washington" and Dr. Martin Luther King Jr's "I have a dream" speech. It made me quite emotional.
After the film and a no-host picnic lunch, we enjoyed a creative but very long talent show. There
were poems recited (including Psalm 123 and This Land is Your Land by Arlo Guthrie), stories told, songs
sung, and even a lengthy "soap opera" -- all in English. I certainly could not do the same in French. In the soap opera,
the single father "stole" his son's girlfriend and married her. It was something to behold.
The PAO, the CALI director and I posed for numerous pictures with the various English clubs and students.
I've posted a couple photos the CALI director sent me.
Saturday evening, we had dinner back at Planet Hollybloom (excellent restaurant) with the American
who owns the Trust Merchant Bank - $14 million in assets. I cannot wait to have my US banking association friends (Jay,
Pat, Diane, Ken....) share experiences with him. He specializes in "micro-credit." But his micro-credit activities
are very similar to those of community banks in the US.
On Sunday a.m., we went with Dr Radja again this time to a Mosque to inaugurate a Embassy grant for
English classes. This is part of the State Departments outreach to the Muslim community. Dr. Radja and the CALI
director will teach English to secondary students at the Muslim school. The head of Mosque was very grateful for the
support. We did not have to cover our heads. We would have had a tour of the mosque; however, they were preparing for
a funeral.
Sunday noon we met a woman who is the Program Director for HOPE DRC - a micro-credit bank funded
by Hope International -- she's from Richmond, VA. I've added Hope's URL to my "Favorite Links" page.
After a lunch full of "Hope," the PAO & I headed to the airport. Again, we got the VIP
treatment. The flight home was direct -- no chance to pick up those diamonds. It was a bit bumpy but quite comfortable.
If you've read this far, you are now going to read what I consider the best part of the trip!
When we arrived at the Kinshasa Airport, we deplaned through the tail (no jet ways here). Passing
under the wing, walking on the tarmac, the flight attendant caught my eye. I thought she was going to thank
me for flying Hewa Bora (good winds in Swahili, I'm told) Airlines. Instead, she said the pilot wanted to
talk with me. The pilot came running down the 1st class stairs. He said, "I wanted to come back to talk with you
during the flight but the turbulence kept me up front." I told him, "You did a good job because I didn't notice a great deal
of turbulence, it was a good flight." He said, "I want to thank you. I was able to study for 4 years in the US. Because
of that, I have this job, which I love. Thank you to your country!" I love this job.
Other stories to come....
Today Bill & I went to Brazzaville, Republic of the Congo; it's the country across the river. US Ambassador
Weisberg (Brazzaville) sent the Embassy boat (large speed boat) to get us and the British Ambassador & his wife.
The port/dock is called the "Beach." If you've read Machela Wong's In the Footsteps of Mr. Kurtz, you'll
have a pretty good picture in your head of what the "Beach" is like. There are lots of people there: vendors, business
people waiting to cross to Brazzaville or coming in from Brazzaville, police, and the handicapped who use hand-pedals to power
a "vehicle" that looks like a cross between a wheelchair & a bicycle.
The normal barge crossing, I'm told, takes about 2 - 2.5 hours. We crossed in the speed boat in about 15 minutes.
Of course, our passage through customs was expedited and "limos" (a Chevy Suburban for us and a Chevy sedan for the Brits)
were waiting to wisk us to the Ambassador's home for lunch. There is nothing like VIP treatment; it's way too easy to
get used to. It is fun to wait in the VIP room and to meet the director of the port (on both sides).
The British Ambassador is credentialled in both Republic of Congo (Brazzaville) and the Democratic Republic of Congo
(Kinshasa), whereas the US has an Ambassador assigned to each country. Congo-Brazzaville was the French Congo before
independence in 1960. Congo-Kinshasa was the Belgium Congo until independence in 1960; President Mobutu renamed the country
Zaire in 1971. When Mobutu was overthrown 1997, the name reverted to Democratic Republic of Congo (or Congo-Kinshasa
familiarly).
Brazzaville is similar and yet very different from Kinshasa. It's quiet in comparison but we did run into similar
traffic (really not unlike Washington, DC on a Friday afternoon). Whereas Kinshasa has 6+million residents in the city
alone, the Republic of Congo has approximately 4 million people in the entire country. To us the Brazzaville streets
seemed to be in much better repair and there seemed to be more new buildings.
After a lovely lunch and chats with U.S. Ambassador Weisberg & his wife, the European Union Rep, and the Belgium
Ambassador to Brazzaville & his wife, we again boarded the speed boat for the quick - no more than 15 minutes - trip across
the mighty Congo River. Getting out of the boat unto the rustic port facility in Kinshasa was a challenge -- it was a high
step and my knees aren't that strong. But I was graciously helped by our expediter and the port manager. I didn't
fall into the River -- that was my biggest concern. By the way, I wore my life jacket fully buckled for both the
trip to and from Brazzaville; so did the British Ambassador's wife. I think we're about equally brave when it comes
to River crossings.
We did see the barge pulling out of Kinshasa as we returned. It was jammed packed -- just as Wong describes in her book.
Another book that accurately describes Congo barges is Jeffrey Tayler's Facing the Congo. There is no doubt
in my mind the barge crossing takes more than 2 hours; it was packed and moving very slowly.
Bill & the DCM are at a reception at the Belgium Embassy (in Kinshasa) this evening. Even after only 8 weeks in country
I am relieved when the invitation doesn't include "spouse." After the reception, we and Sam & Odile are going out
to a Portugese restaurant. Bill leaves tomorrow for a week in the States and Sam & Odile leave next Thursday for
their well deserved R&R. No I won't be in charge!! I am going to travel to Lubumbashi (southeast Congo) next
Friday, returning on Sunday (same day as Bill returns). I'm traveling with the Public Diplomacy/Public Affairs Officer.
I'll fill you in on that adventure next week.
Until next time...
Tomorrow we will be in country for 8 weeks; we arrived on November 22, 2007 (U.S. Thanksgiving). Because we arrived
at the onset of the holiday season, December was a whirlwind of social and official activity. But January has not slowed
significantly.
I am, however, keeping with my New Year's resolution to become involved and to get active. On January 10, 2008,
I accompanied the DCM's wife - Odile - and two other foreign service spouses to the Grace of God Orphanage. The Orphanage
is located just beyond the Mutombo Hospital in the Mesina district of Kinshasa, one of the poorest areas of the City.
Go to "Favorite Links" to for a link to Odile's photos of our visit.
Unfortunately, I wasn't at my best; I was suffering from a painful intestinal attack. Nevertheless, the visit was
worth every minute. I was able to play with the children briefly and I certainly learned a lot.
Yesterday, January 15, Odile lead another group of us to Sister Victorine's other orphanage in another extremely poor
part of town. Remember, Kinshasa has more than 6 million residents. This time I was healthy. So, I did take the
opportunity to lead the children in singing "The Itsy-Bitsy Spider." They got the tune (as best as I could share it
with them) and they nailed the actions -- the words were a little slurred. But for hearing me sing through it once and
then joining in, they did a great job. Erica, who I'm finding out is a true artist, taught them how to draw various
characters, animals and insects. It was amazing to see how quickly and accurately they copied her dirt drawings.
Odile is leading an effort to raise funds to improve the latrines and showers at Grace of God -- currently, as you can
see in the photos, they have one toilet and one shower (that works occasionally) for more than 30 children. We plan
to improve the facilities and add 2 more toilets and another shower.
Because electricity and water flows are erratic, we want to add a water tank so that water can be collected and
available more regularly. We cannot do much about the electricity. After that, we hope to tackle improvements
to the walls and roof of the facility. We will be looking to family and friends, as well as formal grant organizations,
for help. Odile already has identified a charitable organization that we can channel the funds through so that contributions
from U.S. donors can be tax deductible. She's still working on the details but we'll get the information out soon.
