 |
Put the threading cross on two holding sticks. You can now separate a bundle of threads to be threaded through the reed. |
 |
I have found the warp groups that were wound together are easily separated. |
 |
Now you need to pass the cross through the reed.
This is the most dangerous step to warping in my opinion.
Note the use of plastic grocery bags to hold the warp chains.
|
 |
Drape the warp ends over a third stick.
The stick should be between the cross sticks and the headles. |
 |
If you are warping a jack loom, place blocks or books under the harnesses to raise them to a good working level. |
 |
Set at the back of the loom and thread the headles.
I check the threading at the end of each pattern block. I also slip knot the block's threads together. |
 |
This is a view of threading the headles from the front of the loom |
 |
Tie onto the cloth beam.
Remove all of the sticks from between the cross and the headles. They are not necessary now that the headles are threaded. |
 |
Make the first half of a tabby shed. Place a stick through the shed between the headles and the warp beam.
Note the use of sticks or blocks to keep the shed raised. |
 |
Make the second half of a tabby shed. Place a stick through the shed.
This will help the tension as you wind on.
I leave the sticks in while I weave too. They help make a clean shed.
|
 |
If your warp is too sticky, you can remove the cross sticks while winding on and then put them back before you start weaving.
Note the use of the "C" clamps to keep the warp from spreading to much while winding on.
|