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WaitukubuliI’m a nature person. Naturally, I would have to visit Dominica, which is known as The Nature Island of the Caribbean. Its lush green rainforest areas, its gorgeous turquoise waters, its sulfuric volcanic terrains and its dramatic waterfalls delight the senses and inspire return visits. If you have never had the pleasure of traveling through Dominica, I highly recommend it, particularly to those nature and adventure loving eco-travelers. The first time I visited Dominica, I was on official business. I suddenly felt closer to Detroit-area Dominicans I have met: Peter Shillingford, Winfred and Michael Julien, Sevarin Charles and others. I had looked forward to finally seeing a place I had heard so much about. After many stops in mini planes and a wild ride from Melville Hall airport, I arrived a day early to visit my friend and fellow Peace Corps Volunteer Gigi up in Glanvillia, near Portsmouth. She was a teacher at CALLS in Portsmouth and was enjoying her experiences despite being constantly taken for a wealthy medical student at the nearby Ross Medical School. I was amazed at the tidiness in the Cabrits and really enjoyed snorkeling along the rugged coastline at Douglas Bay. For those unaware, Cabrits refers to the goats that were introduced by the Spanish meant as fresh meat for future trans-Atlantic voyagers. This park features the fortifications of Fort Shirley, dating from the 1770s and maintained by the government as a National Park. Gigi really showed me the area and then we made our way down the “long” highway to Roseau. Remember, I had been living in St Vincent where there is no long stretch of highway or even a straight road. The only straight piece of road in St Vincent is at Diamond, the site of many car races. We attended a conference at the Holy Redeemer Retreat House in Eggleston, which is not far from Roseau. However, it is just far enough that your days are filled with tropical vegetation: hibiscus, heliconia and my favorite, frijhee (fern tree). Your nights are filled with the songs of hundreds (or more!) of crapo (frogs). Lying in your room at night listening to the sounds makes you really feel like you are in Dominica. There were more than sixty of us enjoying the local cuisine, taking day trips and soaking up much needed R&R in between beneficial sessions provided by the Peace Corps. We had guest speakers such as noted Dominican scholar and historian Lennox Honeychurch, whose research includes the influence and presence of the Lebanese and Syrian sub-culture. We collaborated as colleagues about cross-cultural issues in the classroom, health and safety issues and much more. One trip involved a group of us going to visit the Carib Reservation on the northeast side of the country. We walked around and met some of the local people, who showed us traditional basket making, frijhee trunk carving and murals. They also had a carbet, the traditional dwelling made of banana leaves and other natural materials. The ride was long and hot, but well worth it because we also went to the Emerald Pool. This is one of my favorite places in Dominica, of which there are many. This place is so named because the water and all the surrounding area is the most lush, bright green you have ever seen. A dip is required, even if you didn’t bring a suit! I encouraged a reluctant swimmer to join us who subsequently panicked and nearly drowned me! I emerged later, a few pounds heavier with emerald colored water, but feeling refreshed nonetheless. The valuable lesson lies in never encouraging people to swim who are not quite so skilled, lest you be the one to bear the consequences! I purchased a card for my mother that featured a representation of traditional Creole dress made with authentic fabric. This three- dimensional treasure is framed and positioned proudly in the dining room. We treasure such cultural artifacts and always delight in receiving them as gifts or during our travels. We were lucky enough to be in town the night of a big Nelly Stharre show at the Calabash Heights/Arawak House. She wowed us with her delicate yet rootsy reggae style. She was suited up like a military officer, but her message was peace. The venue was very cultural, with representations of Dominican scenery tastefully adorning the stage. Her troupe of talented musicians provided support for such songs as “Rain Jah” and “Babajanai”. It was a truly memorable and powerful event to experience a true Dominican of mixed ancestry uniting all the audience members through her universal messages of peace, coexistence, love and understanding. It was a great trip. I was continually being amazed by the massive differences and stunning similarities between the islands of the Caribbean. My fascination was piqued and thus, I was destined to return again. The second trip was strictly vacation and I was determined to see as much of the country as I possibly could. This was to be no easy task considering that my PCV colleagues were busy with their assignments. First I went to the cruise ship wharf in Castries to catch the high-speed L’Express catamaran so early in the morning that the vegetable vendors were just rolling into the marketplace. Of course, after many delays, we finally made our way to Martinique. It was hurricane season and I never was so sick in my life on a moving vessel. I was able to spot endless miles of blue ocean and gemlike islets between episodes. After delays in Fort-de-France, we zoomed toward Roseau and arrived hours past schedule. After being shoved by the masses carrying merchandise to sell, gifts for loved ones and countless other parcels, I spotted my friend Ann. We took in a cool beverage at a Canadian-owned internet café in downtown Roseau and headed off to Bellevue Chopin. This was to be like no other trip, as I was ready with my backpack and my hiking boots. I set off to backpack, hitchhike and bus around the country. Next stop was The World Creole Music Festival in Roseau. It also happened to be Dominica’s 21st birthday and these days were on record as having the largest number of people on the island in the history of the island. This event was a three-night, non-stop international event with big names from all of the Afro-Francophone diaspora. Bands came from Haiti, France, Congo and more. Friday was a"Ragga-Bouyon Extravaganza”, Saturday was the “Cadence-Soukous Invasion” and Sunday was the “Zouk-Compa Explosion”. Of course, you know WCK and Exile One were at that show! One of the days, as the sun was rising, I noticed that I was asleep standing up. Jessica and I hitched all the way to Trafalgar and slept like rocks. Now it was time to see what the back of the $5EC bill is all about: Trafalgar Falls. The “mama” and “papa” double falls tumble about 90ft spraying all the way down to reddish and black boulders. I was sure that I was in heaven and that I had no need to ever walk, work or eat again. This, as my readers know, is my favorite thing in the world: swimming in the pool of a waterfall. But there is so much more yet to come. Next, it was time to hike to the Boiling Lake! Yes, for those Dominicans out there, I hiked and I survived. My legs will never be the same again. This hike is rated as advanced and I never called myself a pro hiker. This, however, is a Dominican essential. This is the largest such geologic formation in the world and the volcanic gases which make it like a massive and dangerous Jacuzzi cause temperatures to stay between 180 and 200F. It is approximately 70 yards across and the hike takes most people 3-4 hours each way through tropical rain forest and the Valley of Desolation. The name sums it up, nothing grows and the sulfuric rocks are interspersed with streams of boiling black or white water. After half a day on the couch, I decided I needed to find my way to the sulfur bath at Soufriere. I was sure that would provide relief. It rained the whole day and the water was cool, but it was work the trek to this southern part of the island. Next is a ride from the former Minister of Agriculture and an orange farmer to Dublanc to see Alissa and Panman. Alissa was working on developing the trail program at the recently developed Syndicate Trails and Waterfalls area that used to be Shillingford Estates (inland from Coluhaut and Barbers Block). A site pass is US$2 or EC$5.30 and that helps maintain the trails and provide educational programs. This area has many different farmers working the land, mostly for fruit. As you walk along through the dense greenery, you can hear Sisserou and his friends flying overhead. The most amazing part of this day was when we came around a bend and we heard a faint humming, only to look over and see hundreds of beautiful hummingbirds of varying sizes and colors feeding on bougainvillea and other flowering bushes. It was a breathtaking sight, especially since that is my favorite bird. Of course, the day would not be complete without a dip in the waterfall after a strenuous hike upstream in the water. Although development is occurring in Dominica, it seems to be more responsible development than some of the other islands that are developing too rapidly. It is clear that Dominica is aware of the value placed on the hottest commodity of them all, nature. If Dominica destroys the natural beauty, the tourism will no longer be responsible, slightly upscale eco-tourism by nature lovers. Goals for the next rip include seeing more of the country in general, finally meeting Marie Louise up on King’s Hill and of course, swimming at Sari-Sari, Victoria and Spanny Waterfalls. Please send your comments to
me via email at rahielh@hotmail.com For additional stories by Rahiel Elaine Housey checkout her web site |