Today's Route.....

Anthony Creek to Bote Mountain (3.6 mi)-Bote Mountain to Appalachian Trail (1.7 mi)-AT to Jenkins Ridge (.3 mi)-Jenkins Ridge to Hazel Creek (8.9 mi)-Hazel Creek to Lakeshore Trail (4.5 mi)-#86 to boat ramp (.5 mi).

"Rarely in Smoky Mountain nomenclature is a ridge named for a trail. One exception is a short, stocky ridge extending south from Blockhouse Mountain to Pickens Gap known as the Jenkins Trail Ridge. Following the spine of the Jenkins Trail Ridge is the Jenkins Ridge Trail." (Kenneth Wise, Hiking Trails of the Great Smoky Mountains)

Al and I hiked 19.5 miles of trails today, June 2, 2009, for me to complete the 8.9 mile Jenkins Ridge Trail that I’d not previously hiked. Only a friend would do this for another friend. This hike represents the fifth trail from the end of my hiking all 900 miles of maintained trails in the Smokies--a feat I once thought would "never" happen.

We’d staged a car at the Fontana Marina a day earlier, arranged for a 7:00 p.m. boat shuttle pick up at campsite #86 at Hazel Creek upon completing our day, and begun our hike in earnest around 6:20 a.m. at the Anthony Creek trailhead at the back end of the Cades Cove Picnic Area. Overnight parking is not allowed in the picnic area and since we would be getting back home late, Al opted to park his car on Laurel Creek Road for our next-day retrieval of it. Starting our hike this early meant our wildflowers photography would be achieved only with flash. So it was.

Anthony Creek Trail is a much loved and used trail. There’s a horse camp on this trail as well as five bridged crossings over Anthony Creek.. The trail was steep at times continually climbing until we reached Bote Mountain. We found one tent pitched at campsite #9 alongside Anthony Creek. The campsite is open and spacious with many large trees.

From the campsite, the trail climbed another .6 mile to the junction with Bote Mountain Trail.

Bote Mountain Trail was nicer than I had remembered. I have remarked more than once that Bote Mountain is one of the uglier trails in the Smokies in my opinion but today it was anything but that.

Wildflowers were plentiful on this segment.  We made a mental note to visit this trail again next spring wildflower season.

Spence Field

As the footpath approached the Appalachian Trail at the edge of Spence Field, it became extremely rocky. "Spence Field is, to many, the most delightful spot on the long crest of the Smokies" (Tom Condon, Hiking Trails of the Smokies). Today it was a mountaintop meadow of thick grass and blueberry bushes. And the views were splendid.

Jenkins Ridge Trail is a one-of-a-kind-trail.

Al said it would be and it was! It’s seldom walked as trails in the Smokies goes and it was vastly overgrown most of the way. Brambles and thorns--a long-hiking-pants kind of day. The trail traverses the full gamut of vegetation types in its descent from high grassy bald to lower elevation pine forest. It was sheer bliss for me–a trail I had never walked before today.  We were alone this day for most of our many miles.

Jenkins Ridge is a beautiful trail and the wildflowers are bountiful.  In my words, "bootiful." 

We WILL visit this trail next wildflower season.

At times the rocky trail bed made walking difficult. We paused at Haw Gap, enjoying the meadow-like area while we ate a snack. Earlier Al had told me about the steep descents along this trail; little did I know what was in store for me. The major part of the steepness occurs during the last two miles. Can you say 28% grade? The trail drops steeply off Cherry Knob with no switchbacks breaking the downward journey. A steep rise precedes the crossing of Woodward Knob (3,940'). In the next .7 mile the trail descends 600' which is the steepest part of the Jenkins Ridge Trail. Hiking Trails of the Smokies describes this section of Jenkins Ridge Trail as "a lung buster or knee breaker," depending upon whether one is going up or down. We chose the knee breaker and I believe the correct direction!

We arrived at Pickens Gap at mile 6.5 and from that point on, it was a well graded roadway downhill to Hazel Creek Trail. A highlight, spotted by Al, was a Lily-leaf Twayblade in bloom. We also visited the Higdon cemetery (20 graves) at 2 miles from Pickens Gap.

One mile from Pickens Gap, Little Fork and Sugar Fork creeks combine. Little Fork is notable for two reasons: the Adams-Westfeldt copper mine and author Horace Kephart, Our Southern Highlanders.

Hazel Creek Trail

At 8.9 miles we reached Hazel Creek, the Hazel Creek Trail and the old settlement of Medlin. Campsite #84, Sugar Fork, is near the junction. It’s a pleasant one and the only campsite along the Hazel Creek watershed which doesn’t allow horses!

All along this segment of the Hazel Creek trail are interesting artifacts and structures worth exploring if time permits. The Calhoun House, built by the Higdon family, sits to the right of the bridge that we crossed on our way to Hazel Creek campsite #86 for our boat shuttle rendezvous.

We arrived at the town of Proctor and Hazel Creek (campsite #86) earlier than we had anticipated, so we sat in the river and cooled off whilst waiting on our boat shuttle back to the marina. We’d averaged 1.6 mph, hiked 12.2 hours and took at least 400 photographs. John shuttled us back across the river for $50. A great ending to a perfect day.

Click here to open our photo gallery for this hike (opens in a new window).

Footnote:

The most complete historic record of Hazel Creek to date is Hazel Creek from Then till Now by Duane Oliver. Al and I both bought copies of his work directly from Mr. Oliver who lives in North Carolina.

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Posted 6/21/2009.

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