|
When contemplating a small layout, I wanted a lightweight, easy to handle base for the track bed and topography. The track
would follow an up-'n-over folded figure eight pattern. As an experiment, I decided to try foam-core. It is thin, light,
easy to cut with a utility knife and readily available at art or office supply stores. On a square foot basis, foam-core
is perhaps more expensive than other options. However, for a small layout it is relatively economical; the total investment
for my purposes (2 pieces) was about seven dollars.
After cutting both pieces to the needed size (to fit inside a small suitcase), I put the bottom piece aside for the time
being and drew the track plan on the top one. With a utility knife, I then cut two topo-lines to create the necessary change
in elevation; this harkens back to the "cookie-cutter" method used in the past with plywood. I also cut 3 sides
of each foot print for 5 buildings, so they would sit level, rather than being tilted due to the "lay of the land"
(see Picture 1 for the cookie-cutter look).
Using the excess foam-core, I cut two pairs of very long wedges (about 4.5 feet and 6 feet long) to create the necessary supports
for the track/topography incline up and back down. An added advantage of foam-core is the ability to finely sand the exposed
edge to smooth imperfections and to easily create vertical easements at the top and bottom. With one piece of each pair,
I made cuts every inch through one paper side and the foam leaving the other paper side intact to create a long hinged wedge
that I glued on the under side aligned with the inner edge of the ties. With the remaining pieces, I cut matching 1 inch
sections (all the way through this time) and glued them underneath in alignment with the outer edge of the ties. I added
a cross piece of foam-core for lateral stability; in hindsight, this may not have been necessary (see Picture 2 for a close
up of this underside incline support).
With more excess foam-core, I cut additional support strips and glued them to the underside of the top. Each was cut to the
thickness of the gap which would exist between the top and bottom pieces when assembled. The green ones support the building
foot prints; the red ones add additional stability to prevent flexing of the finished layout (see Picture 3 for an "underview"
of the supporting structure).
Finally, the bottom was glued to all those supporting pieces; a sufficient number of weights were distributed on the top to
ensure contact everywhere while the glue dried. I used yellow carpenter's glue because I had an extra bottle, but white glue
should have worked just as well. Once dry, I painted the top, leaving the track plan visible to make the next step easier.
(See Picture 4; in the lower left, notice the visible incline support sandwiched between the top and bottom layers.)
Using Z-Thek's roadbed, I installed the track and ballast in one easy step. I was impressed that I could curve the roadbed
in a 5.5 inch radius at the tightest part of the inner curve without the roadbed bunching up and creating an uneven surface.
The electrical wires were easily threaded through holes in both layers. Stone texture paper created retaining walls, and
small scraps of extruded styrofoam were used to add additional topographical features (see Picture 5).
Landscaping materials were added, along with a roadway made simply from grayboard cut to shape, painted an appropriate weathered
gray and glued in place. Since the foam-core surface is flat, the grayboard adheres well, and roads are an easy project to
tackle. This is another advantage of working with this material. More extruded styrofoam scraps were added in both rear
corners to relieve the stark flatness (see Picture at top of page).
Finally, the buildings were glued in place, and additional landscaping materials added more surface texture (both visual and
actual). As a final touch, vehicles and people populated the town to fill the landscape with a multitude of stories and scenes
(see Pictures 6 and 7).
There are two things to watch for with foam-core. It damages easily when struck sharply; thus it must be handled a bit more
carefully than some other materials (although extruded styrofoam is subject to the same problem.). The resulting indentations
can be difficult to conceal after the fact. In my situation, the layout resides inside a suitcase, so this is not a problem.
I have made an additional test track layout [See LAYOUT - UBUNGSBERG] on a foam-core base and it stands up well with only
minor attention when handling.
Secondly, foam-core can warp easily as the paper sides absorb moisture. But this can be easily countered by gluing a supporting
frame of foam-core stringers underneath. My suitcase layout is so strong it resisted my early attempts to force-warp it;
my Unbungsberg test track is built on a 1 inch deep box of foam-core with 3 stringers inside and it is dimensionally very
stabile. (By the way, I squeezed a 1.25 inch thick layer of sponge foam inside the base; this prevents the top layer from
acting as a sounding board and made a very noticeable decrease in running sound.)
All in all, foam-core is a good material for a small or temporary layout. Patching two or more together is not a great
solution; larger pieces are hard to obtain, and are relatively expensive when found. But for a small layout -- perhaps a
simple Christmas oval, or a favorite scene from one's younger years -- foam-core is a great way to get going and have a train
up and running without the delay of building benchwork or an elaborate under structure.
[UPDATE since original publication in Ztrack: I have since discovered a much thicker foamcore product -- which is also
available in much larger sheets -- at art supply stores. While more expensive, it seems to offer a significant advantage
in terms of its ability to resist (or eliminate) warping. It would not be advantageous for creating topography in a "cookie
cutter" manner as I did, but for an extremely lightweight flat surface upon which to build, it might be the right choice.
I have not worked with it, so I can only offer the information that it is available.]
This material is also an excellent choice for making a small display diorama; its availability, low total investment,
and ease with which it can be worked all recommend it for such a project. A display diorama is also a great way to test landscaping
techniques or to practice specific approaches to scenery execution. Not sure what color ballast you want to use on the big
layout? Make a diorama or two and see what effect you like. Want to attempt a different season of the year? Try a diorama
and play with different looks. And when you are all done, put some favorite rolling stock or locomotives on the tracks and
use those dioramas to show them off in a colorful and exciting setting. Foam-core makes this possible with very little investment
or effort.
|
