'99 Accord EX
F23A1 - 2.3L
5 speed
"3/99 - 12/03"
updated 2/8/07 |
EJ's '99 Accord Project |
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'99 Accord EX F23A1 - 2.3L 5 speed |
|
"3/99 - 12/03" |
Starting Position: The car was purchased stock except for Honda fog lights, wing, cassette deck, and mud flaps - all dealer installed.
Final Mods:
Sparco Torino Drivers Seat
TYC Elegante tail lights
17" Velox VX-6R wheels w/ Kumho Ecsta MX 215/45ZR17 tires (everyday summer use)
16" Rota Slipstream wheels w/ Falken Azenis 215/45ZR16 tires (autocross days)
Neuspeed Sport springs & Tokico Premium shocks
Neuspeed front & rear anti-sway bars
Neuspeed upper strut tie bar
Injen Race Division Cold Air Intake
Denso Iridium spark plugs & Magnecor 8mm wires
Neuspeed stainless steel brake lines
Magnaflow cat-back stainless steel exhaust
Random Technology hi-flow catalytic converter
Neuspeed N2 exhaust header & copper head gasket
AEM TruPower under drive pulleys
NR Auto white face gauges
DC Sports shift knob
DC Sports short shift adapter
DC Sports oil cap & battery tie-down
Parts waiting to be installed:
None
Parts on order:
None - (phew!)
Wish List:
Update - I opted for the 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII (www.EJEvo.com). ** 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution.... or maybe a WRX STi.... or a Mazda RX-8... or an Acura RSX Type-S... or a Mazda 6s
"Wish I Hadn't" List:
Razo RM35 magnesium/aluminum pedals, generic carbon fiber/polished emergency brake handle, EL Indiglo Gauges, carbon fiber instrument panel cover - purchased from AutoDynamic.com. These are just a poor, generic fit, and that's exactly what you DO NOT need on the controls of your car. The pedals look nice, but they catch on the carpet and interfere with the full travel of the gas pedal. I'm not convinced the parts would stay on under hard use, so I'm going to eBay them. If interested, send me an email.
Razo RA54 carbon fiber/polished shift knob The Razo kit consists of a machined aluminum shift knob body that has the middle portion of it wrapped in carbon fiber. The top of it screws off to reveal a 3 position setup where you drop 1 of 3 included plastic caps inside. The caps are 8, 10, and 12mm in diameter in order to cover a wide range of shift stick thread sizes. I used the 10mm, which was the only 1 that fit, but it seemed to engage the threads on the shift stick pretty far up into the cap. The caps are also adjustable to position the knob's height - high, medium, low. I positioned the cap so that the shift knob itself sits as low as possible on the shift stick - I didn't want to take away any of the positional advantage my DC Short Shift adapter had given me. I'm disappointed in the shift feeling of the knob - the knob itself is pretty easy to get used to - but because the parts inside are modular to allow for universal fit, there is some play in those parts, so that the knob does not have a solid feel. I've placed a Jolly Rancher candy wrapper inside the knob and that seems to have taken a lot of the movement out of it. My other option is to place some adhesive in the parts and glue them together. This would work, but I want to try to keep the modularity of the knob intact in case I want to set it up differently on down the road. The machined aluminum on top of the knob has a very bad habit of sloughing off dirt and dead skin from the palm of your hand. It is almost impossible to keep the knob clean. It has also been very cold during this winter. I've replaced this with a DC Sports shift knob. The DC knob screws directly on the threads of the shift lever so there's no looseness to worry about, plus it is a smooth surface that doesn't hold dirt. The DC knob gets very cold and hot, however, so I'd recommend a leather knob for better comfort. I gave the Razo knob away to the gentleman who helped me find OG Racing to settle my Sparco problems.
Jet V-Force Power Control Module (part# 67001) purchased via a group buy on GroupBuyCenter.com. Jet has acknowledged that there were thermal and programming issues w/ this module (LEDs caused excessive heat build-up in case, fuel map programming error caused bogging). I've gotten Jet to agree to take the module in trade (+ $60) for an ECU Upgrade. I've paid too much for the ECU upgrade by going this route ($280 vs$240 street price).
Jacobs Electronics I.C.E. Pak purchased via phone directly from Jacobs Electronics. Had trouble finding room to install 3 modules that make up the package. Much larger components than I had anticipated, and heavy, too. This is an expensive unit ($380) and requires you to send your distributor cap in for modification. Why they can't send a modified cap with the kit is beyond me. Bad reviews on SuperHonda web boards caused me to send this back. I'm going to look at an MSD SCI unit (part #6320 w/ rev limiter, or #6300 w/o rev limiter). Jacobs gave me attitude about sending this back, despite their return policy being followed to the letter!
Parts that should never see the light of day:
Grant Styling Ring ("carbon") from my local Pep Boys. The images on Grant's website don't show how poor quality this item really is. The ring actually has a gray and black checkerboard pattern on it - anyone who is vaguely familiar with carbon fiber is aware that it looks nothing like that! On top of that, it barely fits over half of the circumference of the steering wheel - that looks totally stupid. Insultingly overpriced ($70 retail, shouldn't be over $20). Beware of Grant Products - they obviously don't have a problem with deception. I'll give Grant credit - even after complaining to them via email, they told me how to return the part for a full refund.
Installed: 6/30/03
Description: Molded competition-style driver's seat, sliders, and application-specific seat base.
Cost/Vendor: $599 purchased from now-defunct 1320Tuning.com. Sliders & brackets were extra $100. Seat base for 98-00 Accord was $60 from authorized vendor OG Racing.
Wrench Difficulty: 7 up to 10
Bang for the Buck: 5
Cool Factor: 7
The Sparco Torino was a dream of mine when I first saw the seat in an ad. Those dreams don't necessarily match reality, however. The seat is very good at holding the driver in place during extreme driving. However, the seat is very narrow in the hips, and may not be suitable for drivers with waists bigger than 34". Seat makes ingress and egress from the vehicle more difficult due to bolsters on the side of the seat bottom. Model-specific seat base required significant modification to fit model - cutting and welding is required. Instructions are thin on detail. Sliders are not as good as stock seat sliders and can pose a safety hazard if not adjusted carefully. Seat installation was very labor intensive due to fitment issues. Seat sits as high, if not higher!, than stock seat on middle of 3 mounting positions. Mounting in lowest position is near impossible as mounting brackets interfere with seat base bolts and will require bending/cutting in order to mount that low. Sliders may not slide freely depending on mounting position. Stock seat belt fits pretty well when used in conjunction with Torino seat. I'll be taking a trip to Boston soon and will report on long-term comfort of this seat.
The wife hated this seat and thus I didn't mount a passenger side seat, and I removed this Sparco seat from the vehicle during the autocross off-season.
TYC Elegante tail lamps (Modena style)
Installed: 5/31/03
Description: Modena-style tail lenses.
Cost/Vendor: $160 purchased from AutoDynamics.com.
Wrench Difficulty: 2
Bang for the Buck: n/a
Cool Factor: 7
The TYC lenses have one big advantage over other lenses - they are legal! They are SAE/DOT compliant, and have the proper markings molded right into the lense. This is what a reputable vehicle inspection shop will look for. The TYC Elegante lenses for the 6th gen Accord sedan look great - from straight on. However, they do appear a bit weird from the sides. The round lenses are raised and stick out almost 4 inches on the corners - I'm not sure if this is because of visibility requirements to obtain the SAE/DOT compliancy or if the designers thought it was unique. It's unique alright, but I'd rather they were more flush to the rest of the tail lamp assembly. They look awesome at night, and really set the car off. The black assembly color matches well with my black paint, but they appear to be starting to fade somewhat from UV exposure. If they fade much more then I'll need to get them painted.
Velox VX-6R wheels w/ Kumho Ecsta MX 215/45ZR17
Installed: 4/27/03
Description: 4 17"x7" Velox VX-6R wheels, 4x114.3/4x100 bolt pattern, 42mm+ offset, gun metal w/ polished lip
Cost/Vendor: $580 purchased from AFS Motorsports in a group buy. Kumho's were $492 shipped from TireRack.com.
Wrench Difficulty: 2
Bang for the Buck: 7
Cool Factor: 7
These wheels are reasonably light - 16.5 lbs each. Any time you can keep the weight of the wheel below the rim size then you're doing good. The weight differences between my 15" Hondas (Enkei), 16" Rotas, and 17" Velox's isn't that big, so I don't feel any performance loss when switching up, like I used to with the heavy Borbets. The gunmetal color is a nice compromise for my dark theme - not as dark as the black Rotas - and the polished lip helps set the wheels off from the tires. I'm using my McGard SplineDrive lugs from my Rotas. These wheels are made in China, so I'm hoping the quality is better than most products I've experienced from China. These wheels carry the same certifications as the Rota wheels, but unlike the Rotas, they are rated at 690kg (vs. 520kg) - so the extra weight brings you some extra sturdiness. Not that it's been a problem on the Rotas so far.... The Kumhos seem to be very sticky - throwing up road grit at a good pace. The Kumhos appeared to wear at a fairly rapid pace - approximately 40% of the tread was off in just one year of use.
NR Auto White Gauge Face overlays & carbon fiber gauge trim. These gauge faces require no wiring and are illuminated by the stock instrument cluster lights.
Installed: 6/1/02 - 6/14/02.
Description: Simple white overlay gauge faces, no power needed. Not as contrasting at night as they should be. Removing a light or 2 from the illumination of the gauges may actually help this situation.
Cost/Vendor: $95 for gauge faces purchased direct from NR Auto. About $30 for the gauge trim from AutoDynamic.com
Wrench Difficulty: 5
Bang for the Buck: 3
Cool Factor: 5
The gauge faces are a bear to get on right. Popping the gauge cluster was a bit of a challenge, despite the Haynes manual. Popping the metal clips that keep the cluster in place required quite a bit of force - so much that one of the clips took off on me and I have yet to find it. That was ok, because I didn't put the clamps back on, owing to the need to continuously pull the cluster out and try to prevent the gauge faces from binding the tach needle. It takes a light touch to get the gauge faces over the needles, but once they are over, you just need to use the included double-sided tape to get the gauge face to lay flat. Problem is, that's almost impossible. What you are best off doing is making sure that the opening for the needle is centered as much as possible around the needle base. That way, the needle base won't contact the gauge face since the opening is just slightly larger than the base itself. NR would do well to cut the openings just a bit bigger to leave some wiggle room. You never see the openings, as the original black gauge face blends right in with the black needle bases. My other criticism for NR is that they made the markings clear w/ a white face. That works fine during the day, because the clear shows the dark background behind it, but at night when you turn the headlights on, the original numerals are illuminated, and they show thru the clear markings, to make a white marking on white background! When I repositioned the tach face to keep the opening evenly around the needle base, it made the new face off kilter with the original face. However, with the markings just off of each other, you get a nice shadow effect showing thru, and this enhances the contrast at night when the lights are on. Who needs to see the speedo anyway?
Injen Race Division CAI (cold air intake) from RaceSearch.com, via a group buy on GroupBuyCenter.com.
Installed: 5/24/02 - Will probably be pulled off each winter, and put the DC Sport system on then.
Description: Polished Cold Air Intake (part # RD1670P). 1 piece CAI to replace disappointing DC Sports DAC intake.
Cost/Vendor: $224 purchased from RaceSearch.com, via a group buy on GroupBuyCenter.com
Wrench Difficulty: 3
Bang for the Buck: 7
Cool Factor: 6
The intake looks great, and it is a quality piece. The only difficulty here is making sure the filter doesn't suck up water being down low in the right front fender well. Getting at the filter for maintenance or seasonal changes will be somewhat involved in that you need to remove the right side of the bumper cover to gain access to the area that holds the filter. I never did introduce an AEM bypass valve on this system, and even ran it during the winter. I simply taped up some of the holes in the bottom to limit water and snow entry, while making sure to allow any that did enter to drain out.
Installed: 5/16/02
Description: 4 16" Rota Slipstream wheels, 4x114.3 bolt pattern, 40mm+ offset, flat black
Cost/Vendor: $500 purchased from Mach III in a group buy.
Wrench Difficulty: 2
Bang for the Buck: 7
Cool Factor: 7
These wheels are light - 13.2 lbs each - and are thus much lighter than my Borbet alloy wheels by about 7 lbs. The weight difference translates into noticeable performance increases, both from an acceleration and handling standpoint. Much less wheel bounce now - the shocks have less weight to control. Black color is not my favorite - but I got tired of waiting for these and black was available and silver wasn't. Impatience will kill you every time. Had to purchase special lug nuts (McGard SplineDrive) and special lug wrench in order to do this right. The black finish on the wheels appears to be pretty fragile, and I'm wondering if they'll be able to stand up to daily driving and all the little sandblasting that occurs each day. That might be why they were labeled 'For Racing Only'. My kid took one look at them and said "What happened to your hubcaps?". Thanks for the compliment, kid. Guess now I'll have to paint my car silver for the wheels to stick out - J!
Installed as part of these wheels are McGard Splinedrive Lugnut set (part #MCG-65457BK) from Summit Racing Equipment. The stock Honda lugnuts just don't fit the Rota wheels, so I bought this lug kit to fix the issue. The kit includes lug nuts, locking lug nuts, Splinedrive wrench & lock key, chrome valve stems. I opted to save the chrome valve stems for use on other wheels. Why not stay with the black rubber valve stems, now that they'll match the black wheels?
Installed: 7/15/01 - De-installed: 5/15/02 - Because they aren't stamped 'DOT SAE', they don't pass NYS inspection! I had to put the stock lenses back in, and now that they're in, I'm liking the stock lenses better...
Description: 4 piece altezza tail lense set.
Cost/Vendor: $279.95 from Autodynamic.com.
Wrench Difficulty: 3
Bang for the Buck: 5
Cool Factor: 7
While I've had some people say that altezzas are 'played out', I don't believe that's true here on the East Coast. You just don't see them much here, so they stand out. The install wasn't bad at all, just removing the plastic screws that hold the trunk trim in place, and then removing a few hex nuts from the stock units - of course you have to unlock and remove the bulb bases before you pull the stock lenses. The Taiwanese no-name lenses that I have seem to be pretty good quality, although I wasn't impressed with the tolerances of the lenses for locking the bulb bases into the units. I ended up snapping off a tab on one of my turn signal bases - too tight to get that easy click twist lock motion. Otherwise, they look good during the day, and are real sharp at night. 2 tips - 1) make sure you have yellow turn signal bulbs (#1157) on hand before you install the lenses (this'll keep you street legal and off the cops' minds), and 2) run a bead of clear silicone seal around the edges of the lenses in order to keep moisture out of the inside of the lenses. While the lenses are sealed by the factory, I did find some gaps here and there that could let some crap in. If they get moisture or dirt in them, the game's over.
Neuspeed N2 ceramic exhaust header
Installed: 5/8/01
Description: ceramic coated 4-2-1 exhaust header.
Cost/Vendor: $278 ($258 for header & $20 for Mr. Gasket copper header gasket) from Carparts.com.
Wrench Difficulty: Installed by garage
Bang for the Buck: 7
Cool Factor: 5
Update - the only portion of the header that didn't hold up well was the underside of the pipe that connects to the cat. The ceramic coating got sandblasted by road grime and started to rust. I simply sanded it and hit it with hi-temp paint from time to time. ** I'm very happy with the quality of the Neuspeed header. The ceramic coating on it has held up very well over the seasons, and I'm confident it will hold up for years to come. Looks good, good fitment, and adds to an aggressive exhaust note.
Magnaflow Cat-back s/s exhaust (part#15690)
Installed: 5/8/01
Description: stainless steel cat-back exhaust system.
Cost/Vendor: $350 from Husker High Performance Exhaust.
Wrench Difficulty: Installed by garage
Bang for the Buck: 7
Cool Factor: 5
This vendor is great! Great prices, excellent technical support (better than Magnaflow themselves!!), and quick delivery. All gaskets and new bolt hardware included. Larry's Foreign Auto, who did the install, said that the system wasn't the best fit they've seen and it took considerable effort to get it right. Not a system for the do-it-yourselfer, in their opinion. I have had some rub issues with the system - notably when you are reversing and the engine lugs down and shakes the exhaust system, but not a real problem. The sound is deep and throaty, without it being too loud. No problems with the finish on the unit as of yet.
5/28/02 - I have noticed some slight corrosion on the tail pipe of this system. It polishes up pretty well and hasn't progressed much beyond the initial stages as of 11/19/03.
11/19/03 - My garage reports that the exhaust has broken the weld between the pipe just aft of the resonator on the B pipe, on the muffler side of the resonator. This results in a minor exhaust leak, and a small metallic rattle under medium-hard to hard acceleration. I'll be contacting Magnaflow for instructions.
12/23/03 - My garage removed the entire system so I could trade the Accord in with the stock exhaust attached. Looking at the Magnaflow pipes, I see no broken welds, so I don't know where the rattle was coming from. Husker and Magnaflow were all set to accept the system for inspection and replacement if necessary - kudos to them for living up to their promise.
Random Technology Hi-flo catalytic converter
Installed: 5/9/01
Description: high flow catalytic converter that replaces stock converter.
Cost/Vendor: $170 each from NRG-Racing via GroupBuyCenter.com.
Wrench Difficulty: Installed by garage
Bang for the Buck: 7
Cool Factor: 5
I'm assuming this is doing ok, since you can't really see it easily. No problems that I'm aware of.
Update - This did not produce the exhaust rattle I heard - it was a broken weld on the Magnaflow exhaust, which was replaced under their very cool lifetime warranty. ** 12/23/03 - The unit itself seems to be holding up alright, but the flanges on either end are rusted pretty good. Not sure if this unit was responsible for the mystery rattle in the exhaust system.
Neuspeed s/s brake lines (part #96.20.37)
Installed: 5/9/01
Description: stainless steel brake lines w/ yellow covers.
Cost/Vendor: $139 from RaceSearch.com.
Wrench Difficulty: Installed by garage
Bang for the Buck: 5
Cool Factor: 4
Not much to say on these other than Neuspeed makes great products. You really can't see these unless you know what you're looking for. The best thing about the stainless steel lines is that they remove the chatter out of ABS by not flexing when the control unit pumps the brakes. I've had a few individuals that have caused me to find this out first hand, and they work as advertised.
Neuspeed front (part #15.20.27.1) and rear (part # 25.20.19.3) anti-sway bars
Installed: 5/9/01
Description: front - 23mm, rear - 19mm anti-sway bars.
Cost/Vendor: $120 each from RaceSearch.com.
Wrench Difficulty: Installed by garage
Bang for the Buck: 7
Cool Factor: 5
While the cornering abilities of my Accord are far superior to the stock Accord, I can't say that these bars are going to satisfy your every need. In SCCA SOLO II competition, I've had a heck of a time keeping pace with the much more nimble Civic Si's and Integras due to the heavy understeer that my Accord produces. Not sure how much of this could be addressed by an anti-sway bar, but I know I need more control in tight corners on a course. I'm thinking lightening the front (carbon fiber hood, battery moved to the trunk, lighter rims) might help this somewhat. But for now I'm plowing more than I'd like.
5/28/02 - Veteran autocrossers are telling me to remove the front sway bar to help address the understeer (plowing) that I experience during hard turns at SCCA Solo II events. Probably the best advice would be to upgrade the rear sway bar only in order to bring about a better handling balance, making the rear a bit easier to bring out on command.
12/23/03 - Never did follow thru on this suggestion - the Accord was traded in with the Neuspeed sways still in place. Someone is going to get a true "Special Edition" Accord....
DC Sports shift knob (part #DCK1000-G)
Installed: 1/5/01
Description: Billet aluminum one piece shift knob.
Cost/Vendor: $45 from RoadCatalogs.com.
Wrench Difficulty: 1
Bang for the Buck: 7
Cool Factor: 5
The DC Sports shift knob is awesome in feel and service compared to the Razo knob. The Razo knob wobbled on the stick and had tiny grooves that collected dirt like Pig Pen on Peanuts. The DC knob is rock solid and fits the palm of your hand much better than the Razo knob. The DC knob also has a polished aluminum surface that stays clean. My only complaint is that the gun metal gray color is much darker than shown in the pictures at various sites - most make it look like a true silver. I'd rather it be a lighter silver color than the closer to charcoal gray color it is. A small quibble, considering how improved it is over the Razo product. Only drawback to this piece is it is cold in the winter (and hot in the summer) - the solid aluminum takes some time before it warms up (or cools down) to the interior temp.
Neuspeed Sport Springs (part# 55.20.31) & Tokico Premium shocks
Installed: 11/13/00
Description: Lowering springs w/ a 1.8" drop - premium shocks better suited to the smaller spring rate.
Cost/Vendor: $480 ($136 springs/$316 shocks/$28s+h), from Auto Image Enhancement.
Wrench Difficulty: 7.5 ($264 for installation at Larry's Foreign Auto Service, Albany, NY)
Bang for the Buck: 7
Cool Factor: 7
The Neuspeed Sport Springs are intended to lower the car about 1.8" both front and rear. It is recommended that the factory shocks are replaced w/ performance shocks in order to compensate for the shorter spring travel that the lowering springs will have. Supposedly the lower spring rate would wear out the factory shocks much quicker than the factory springs would. The car looks lower, wheel well gap is significantly reduced, body roll is reduced, and yet ride quality has not changed much - it took about 3 months before the springs broke in and finally gave me the ride quality I could expect for the long term. I was half expecting minor pavement changes to send a good amount of energy back into the car, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Not having the tools necessary to compress the springs for removal and installation made me seek help on this one. The lower stance of the car did not have any negative effect in the snow.
Vibrant s/s Axle-back Exhaust System (#1716)
Installed: 10/16/00, removed 5/9/01 in favor of the Magnaflow cat-back exhaust.
Description: Axle-back stainless steel muffler assembly directly bolts to stock piping.
Cost/Vendor: $240, from Racers Equipment of Rhode Island.
Wrench Difficulty: 3
Bang for the Buck: 5
Cool Factor: 6
The Vibrant axle-back kit for the 4cyl Accord sedan is a direct replacement of the stock muffler. The only modification required was to cut a notch out of the rear bumper lip to help accomodate the large, square, dual tips of the muffler. I cut off about 3 inches and maintained the same 45 degree angle of the smaller cut from the factory that is there to accomodate the stock muffler tail pipe. Since my exhaust system is only 2 years old, the parts were in good condition and only required a good heave to get the 2 hex nuts started. The stock muffler then was removed by disconnecting the 2 rubber hangers. I cleaned off the stock pipe flange, ran a bead of hi-temp gasket goop around the edge, hung the 2 rubber hangers on the Vibrant muffler, applied anti-seize lubricant to 2 zinc plated hex bolts (3/8" x 1.5"), and bolted the muffler pipe to the stock piping. I then removed the plastic sheeting from the Vibrant muffler body, wiped all my finger prints off of the muffler and pipe (so they don't get burned onto the pipe permanently), and then let the car sit for a few hours so the gasket goop could cure. An easy 2 hour operation that only took that long because I had never done any exhaust work before and was going slow to make sure it all was connected correctly. Nice growl to it from idle through 3500 rpms. Not a head-turner like some of the systems I've heard, but good enough so as not to sound like a boy-racer.
4/29/01 - I was disturbed to see a very small amount of corrosion appearing on the tops of both tips. Not sure why it would rust, since the unit is supposedly solid stainless steel. I'm replacing this unit with the Magnaflow exhaust, so I'll buff the Vibrant exhaust and try to find it a new home with someone who lives in the South or out West, where there is no road salt.
AEM TruPower Underdrive Pulley system (part# 23-7018B)
Installed: 10/6/00 - Power Steering pulley +++ 11/13/00 - Alternator pulley
Description: Underdrive pulleys & belts to reduce parasitic drag of accessory power consumption.
Cost/Vendor: $140.95, from LandspeedRacing.com.
Wrench Difficulty: 4 (power steering pulley) & 6 (alternator pulley)
Bang for the Buck: 4
Cool Factor: 5
The kit consists of 2 pulleys (power steering and alternator) and 2 replacement belts. The pulleys are larger in diameter than the stock pulleys, and therefore spin slower than stock. The makes them easier to turn (similar to gearing on the back wheel of a multi-speed bicycle). Because of the larger diameter of the pulleys, larger belts are required in place of the stock belts. The power steering pulley is very simple to remove - it's the alternator pulley that has me stumped at the moment. The alternator pulley has a 22mm nut on a spindle that has a 10mm hex shape on the end. In order to remove the 22mm nut, you must get 2 wrenches into a rather deep but small area of the middle of the pulley. I have had trouble finding a 22mm hex wrench that has enough offset to seat properly on the nut. On top of this, there appears to be some concern as to whether all of the accessory systems on the EX model (ABS, lights, radio, A/C, etc) will be able to handle the lower alternator output. I had Larry's Foreign Auto Service install the alternator pulley - just as well as they had to remove the alternator in order to get an impact wrench on it. Toughest part of the power steering pulley install is making sure the replacement belt is tightened sufficiently so that the belt doesn't squeal or glaze. I had a very wimpy bar to leverage the power steering pump up with, so I had to use a cheater bar in order to get enough torque on the leverage bar to tighten the belt sufficiently. If you can, get a second set of hands to help - one to lift up on the power steering pump, and one to tighten the bolts so that the pump stays in the tightened position. I ended up using an aluminum pipe that used to function as a bird bath stand. Not the best, and certainly prone to ripping, but it worked when I needed it to. The pulley and belt are working fine, but I haven't noticed a big difference. The effect of both pulleys installed is only supposed to be a boost of 4-8 HP, so I doubt you'd notice it unless you were dragging or in a timed event. Every little bit helps, though. Sport Compact Car magazine reviewed the Accord kit from AEM.
Denso Iridium spark plugs (part# 5303, heat range IK16)
Installed: 10/1/00
Description: Iridium spark plugs for more efficient spark, longer life.
Cost/Vendor: $55.80, from BottleFed Racing, a vendor on GroupBuyCenter.com
Wrench Difficulty: 3
Bang for the Buck: 7
Cool Factor: n/a - ya can't see 'em!
These plugs have made a noticeable difference in the performance of my vehicle. Not sure yet whether that's due to the Iridium power claims that Denso is making (in order to justify the $13.95/plug cost) or if it was the fact that the factory plugs appeared to be incorrectly gapped. I measured the gap, just out of curiosity, on the stock plugs and compared that (.044 ") to the recommended gap in the Accord owner's manual (.040 "). The stock plugs were covered w/ carbon, and they had odd rust marks coming up from the base of the hex nut and streaking up the ceramic insulator. Not sure if that's normal, but I can't believe it is. The Denso plugs were gapped perfectly for my application, so I didn't have to adjust them at all. I simply coated the threads of each one with a light covering of Permatex Anti-Sieze Lubricant (item #81343). This keeps the plugs from bonding w/ the aluminum threads of the engine block. This stuff stinks bad! Be careful when puncturing the tube - mine seemed to be pressure loaded and oozed an inch of lube. I used a paper towel to wipe what came out of the tube onto the 4 plugs, but I would recommend using a small, stiff, water color brush to avoid putting too much on each plug. The manual called for hand-tightening the plugs and then torquing them w/ a wrench 2/3's of a turn. I found that after a 1/4 turn they seemed plenty tight, so I didn't follow the manual recommendations. The engine does idle smoother, and definitely is much peppier than before. Hard to tell if the bad gapping on the old plugs or the Iridium's supposed advantages are being felt.
DC Sports Short Shift Adapter (part# SSA5006)
Installed: 9/25/00
Description: Blue billet aluminum 'L' piece that bolts onto the stock shift bar.
Cost/Vendor: $71.95, AutoDynamic.com
Wrench Difficulty: 4
Bang for the Buck: 5
Cool Factor: 4
Let's get one thing straight - the DC Sports instructions stink - the nut sizes they mention are wrong. Add on top of that the Haynes manual doesn't give instructions on how to get at just the shift assembly, and that adds up to possible trouble for this newbie mechanic. I tried to follow Haynes' section on removing the center console, but I ran into problems right away when I couldn't remove the front console panel - my add-on Honda cassette tape deck is there. Removing that puppy is still a mystery. I took 2 phillips screws out of the bottom of it, and then popped the surround trim from it. However, the trim was still attached to the underside of the tape deck, and I couldn't get what looked like clips to break free. I finally gave up on that and moved on in the instructions, and lucky I did, because as it turned out I didn't need to remove the console at all. The cover that holds the shift boot and cup holders just pops out, albeit with some effort.
Neuspeed Upper Strut Tie Bar (part# 30.20.96P)
Installed: 9/20/00
Description: Polished, unhinged, hollow bar that bolts between the front strut towers.
Cost/Vendor: $70.40, CarParts.com
Wrench Difficulty: 2
Bang for the Buck: 6
Cool Factor: 5
Simple to put on - depending on how things align. The instructions have you remove the 2 12mm hex nuts closest to the firewall on each strut tower. You then slide the 2 ends of the bar onto the studs on each side, replace the hex nuts, tighten, and you're done. However, there are some warnings in the instructions that you may have to loosen the other hex nuts, including the ones connecting the stock braces to the firewall, then jack the car up and see if the studs line up any better. I dropped the bar end onto the driver-side studs, then went over to the passenger-side studs and noticed that the bar seemed to be about 3/8" too long. Tried to flex the bar by putting some weight on it while pushing the passenger-side end towards the driver-side strut tower (with the hex nuts loosely on the driver-side studs) - no go. Next tried loosening the driver-side hex nuts a bit more, but still the bar was too long to drop on the passenger-side studs. Tried using a rubber mallet to push the passenger-side bar end towards the passenger-side studs, but didn't help. I'd just about resigned myself to having to jack up the car and loosen the remaining hex nuts when I decided to try one last thing. I removed the bar from the driver-side studs, and this time placed the passenger-side end on the passenger-side studs, and then tried to put the other end on the driver-side studs. Voila! There's no good explanation that I can think of why this would help, but it did (Note - I didn't switch the bar around facing backwards, just simply placed the opposite bar end on first). Tightened all hex nuts down and left the hood up to admire my handiwork. Not bad. Have noticed that body creaks have stopped almost entirely (usually coming from sunroof area when turning out of my driveway - thus torquing the unibody right front end towards left rear end)! Thanks again to Tommy Tran for talking me into the Neuspeed strut bar (as opposed to my first pick, the DC Sports strut bar) and sending me warnings on not to try to bend it to fit (albeit the email came just after I got done putting it on - luckily I was brighter than to try that).
Magnecor 8mm High Performance Ignition Cables (part# 40216)
Installed: 9/10/00
Description: Replacement spark plug wire set, blue color wires.
Cost/Vendor: $104.72, Magnecor
Wrench Difficulty: 1
Bang for the Buck: 3
Cool Factor: 5
Simple to put on - just unplug old wires (make sure to twist them to break seal between wire boots and plugs, do it when engine is cool) and then plug the new wires on. Remember to do them one at a time so as not to forget which wire matches up with what spark plug and distributor plug - because of the progressing length of each wire, this probably won't be a problem. No seat-of-the-pants feeling, but I'm sure these are more efficient than the stock wires. Really the biggest impact these have are visual, although they will hold great importance if upgrading the stock ignition system with a high output aftermarket ignition system (such as an MSD, Holley, or Crane system).
9/23/00 - Started to get some white powder built up on the wires themselves. I've wiped them down with a rag and they look dark as new now. Hope this is just the silicone curing.
12/7/00 - White powder buildup hasn't come back.
DC Sports Direct Air Charger (DAC) (part# DAC5011)
Installed: 8/5/00 Deinstalled: 5/24/02, replaced by Injen Race Division CAI.
Description: Replacement air intake system, replacing stock parts up to throttlebody.
Cost/Vendor: $175, Racing Works
Wrench Difficulty: 2
Bang for the Buck: 5
Cool Factor: 7
Simple to put on - as long as you have a Haynes shop manual handy. Between the descriptions in the Haynes manual and the instructions that DC Sports sends, you should have a pretty good idea of how to proceed. The parts are all pretty accessible, except for the resonator box (which I still haven't removed yet). Positioning is pretty tight, so you need to keep connections loose until you see where the clamps and hoses need to be positioned in order to make all the clearances work. The sound is great, although people say you won't hear it once you put a header/exhaust combo on. Until then, I enjoy the noise! Engine seems peppier, and my gas mileage has actually improved since it went on by 2-3mpg - despite my heavy foot keeping it noisy. Looks good, although DC could allow you to place the DAC badge on it once you have it installed - my badge seems to be positioned too far back so that the wording is pointed more towards the firewall than the gawker standing in front of the open hood.
9/23/00 - Having a problem keeping rubber lip of filter on as much where it meets the support bracket as the rest of the intake pipe circumference. The bracket is inserted between the clamp and the rubber lip, apparently not giving as much resistance as the clamp directly on the rubber lip of the filter. Doesn't appear to be in danger of sliding off all the way - will have to watch it. I've heard from other DAC users that the K&N filter has a tendency to rip, and I have noticed a slight tear in the rubber that wraps onto the end of the aluminum intake pipe. Hasn't gotten worse since I noticed it.
11/13/01 - Not happy at all with the engineering of the DAC intake. The way they have the band clamp setup to do double duty - holding the filter on the intake pipe, and attaching the pipe to the body bracket on the passenger strut tower - leads to big problems. No matter how much you tighten the band clamp on the filter, the damn thing keeps coming off, and I find my filter laying in the engine bay completely off. This is BAD news for the engine, and I plan on asking DC Sports to address this. If they can't come up with a good solution then I'm dumping this unit for an AEM short filter intake in the Spring.
1/14/02 - I've had it with this piece. It's going to be replaced with an Injen Race Division CAI. The brackets keep breaking and the filter won't stay on the intake pipe. Now if I can just keep the Injen one-piece, polished pipe out of deep puddles (and thus avoid hydro-locking the engine), then I'll be all set.
DC Sports Oil Cap & Battery Tie Down
Installed: 10/28/99
Description: Oil filler cap and battery tie down
Cost/Vendor: $85 from Roadcatalogs.com
Wrench Difficulty: 1
Bang for the Buck: 1
Cool Factor: 6
Just take the stock oil filler cap off and replace it with the aluminum one. Replacing the battery tie down was pretty simple, just remove the hex nuts from the stock tie down (hold onto the tie down rods when you remove the nuts or they fall down into the engine bay!) and put the new tie down in place. I was disappointed with the fit of the DC Sports tie down - doesn't compensate well for the uneven length of the 2 tie down rods. Now with the thicker tie down, the one rod barely makes room for the hex nut to fully engage the tie down rod threads (fender side), and the other tie down rod (header side) pokes up about 1/2". The rubber backing on the tie down slowly works its way off the tie down, so I have to remove it and try to take it off and stick it back in the right spot. Oddly enough, now that I've decided to use yellow hoses to dress up the engine bay, my stock yellow oil filler cap would fit in more than the blue billet oil cap.
Borbet Type C 16" wheels w/ Dunlop SP Sport 8000 205/55R16 tires
Installed: 4/12/00 Deinstalled: 5/16/02
Description: Wheel and tire upgrade package.
Cost/Vendor: $815.87 (includes $27.95 McGuard locking lugnuts part# 24137), The Tire Rack
Wrench Difficulty: 2
Bang for the Buck: 8
Cool Factor: 8
Simple to put on, just requires some heavy-lifting and some leaning on a lugnut wrench. The Tire Rack staff are pretty good, and helped me figure out what sizes in 16" and 17" wheels a tire would need to be in order to keep the same factory diameter as the stock 15" wheels. Based on the costs associated w/ 17" wheels and tires, I decided to go 16". This also helps keep some of the ride softness of a higher sidewall. My previous Dunlop SP Sports were excellent, so I stuck with that line. Since the SP 4000's are no longer available, I went up the ladder to the SP 8000's. I remove this during the winter and put my stock 15" rims on for winter driving. Handling and tire grip is greatly improved over the stock Michelin MXV4s and 15" rims. My only regret with the Borbets is that they seem to be pretty heavy, more so than the stock rims. If I had it to do again (and who knows, I just might) I'd look at some Volk Rays wheels - very light and speed-worthy.
Ziebart Window Tinting
Installed: 3/18/99
Description: Side and rear window tinting.
Cost/Vendor: $248, Ziebart
Wrench Difficulty: 7
Bang for the Buck: 8
Cool Factor: 8
Requires a lot of patience to do yourself. Rear windows are particularly tough, and thus my decision to leave in professional hands. Bought the lifetime warranty, but this can sometimes be difficult to make a claim on. My '92 Civic had bubbles appear after about 5 years (UV damage combined with triple piece application to accommodate rear window curving), and in order to remove old tint, you have to risk removing the rear defroster wires that are covered by the tint. No way to unglue the tint, so you may damage the defroster. I decided to live with the bubbles and instead get a new car! Considered not getting rear window tinted, but it really does make for a more comfortable driving experience - as long as the tint isn't too dark! You may attract unwanted police attention with a darker shade, so I chose a light gray tint. Still not legal, but no one bothers me because of it.
