The installation of the bellows is begun by making a paper pattern of the bellows two (2) end rings. Place a sheet of typing or printer paper on a flat surface and then place one of the completed bellows end rings in contact with the paper. Trace the outline of the ring on the paper with a sharp pencil or pen. Mark the pattern TOP and front or back
to avoid a mix-up when transferring the pattern to the surface of the corresponding end frame. Cut out the pattern with a paper cutter or scissors and temporarily attach the patterns to the bellows end rings with double sided tape. Gently rub the pattern, with the DULL side of a pencil, over the inside edges of the end ring opening and over the drilled hole positions, until the pattern of the ring is clearly visible. Press a sharp pencil point into the drilled holes to punch out the paper and then remove the pattern from the end ring(ref: photo27)
. Repeat this process for the opposite end and set the bellows aside. Remove the outlined inside opening of the patterns with a x-acto knife or razor blade.
Place the end frame assemblies, SMOOTH side facing up, on the work area in front of you and place the appropriate pattern on each end frame with the penciled side facing the frame and the TOP of the pattern facing the TOP of the end frame. Align the pattern so that the end frame is evenly exposed along the inside edges of the pattern(ref: photo28)
. Hold the pattern firmly in position and transfer the position of the holes in the pattern to the underlying wood surface by inserting the point of a sharp pencil through the holes and coloring in the underlying exposed wood. Repeat this procedure for the second end frame and its corresponding pattern.
Drill a perpendicular 1/8-inch diameter hole, 5/8-inch deep, straight into the frames at the eight (8) marked hole positions and then remove all rough edges from the frames. Place the matching bellows and end ring in position and extend the bellows to clear the holes on the inside. Insert four (4) #10 x 5/8-inch long PANHEAD sheet metal screws into the pre-drilled holes of the bellows end ring and firmly turn them until the end of the bellows is attached tightly into position on the back of the frame(ref: photo29)
. Repeat this procedure for the opposite end of the bellows and then seal the INTERIOR intersecting edges of the bellows and frame with BLACK silicon sealant to block any light leaks. A small bead of sealant is enough to do the job! Any excess just makes the bellows difficult to remove for later replacement or repair.
Camera Final Assembly
Place the bellows/end frame assembly on the previously constructed base frame/slider block assembly and insert one of the CARRIAGE bolts, with 1/4-20 thread, 2-inches in length, into the bottom of one of the base frame slider blocks through the 5/16-inch diameter hole and extend it upwards through the 5/16-inch wide slot of the end frame support block assembly. Place one of the metal WASHERS, with a 1/4-inch CLEARANCE hole, and a 3/4 to 1-inch outside diameter, over the exposed thread and then install one of the plastic knobs with a 1/4-20 threaded metal insert, on this bolt turning it firmly down against the washer to secure the assemblies together. Repeat this procedure on the opposite end and you have completed the camera body.(ref: photo30)(ref: photo31)
Focusing Glass Insert Construction
The focusing screen, where this camera is slightly different than other large format cameras, is REMOVABLE. This design feature allows the focusing plane of the frosted glass to be easily adjusted to accommodate various film holder characteristics that may interfere with fine focus. To design and construct this item you will need a DEPTH measuring device (micrometer or dial caliper) and the film holder that you intend to utilize. Place the film holder on a flat surface and remove the blackout slide. Insert an exposed sheet of film into its proper position in the film holder. Measure from the FRONT face of the film holder to the film surface. This measurement will become the measurement from the FRONT face of the focusing glass FRAME to the FROSTED surface of the viewing glass. For 4 x 5 format film holders this depth measurement is usually .192 (thousandths) of an inch.
Begin the actual construction of the focusing glass frame by cutting a strip of wood 3/8 x 3/8 x 16-inches long. Adjust the distance between the edge of the table saw blade and the rip fence to exactly .192 (thousandths) of an inch. Adjust the height of the blade above the cutting surface to 3/16-inch. The saw is now utilized to cut a 3/16-inch deep slot in one lengthwise side of the previously cut 3/8 x 3/8 x 16-inches long wood strip. Remove all rough edges from this strip and cut it into two (2) pieces 7-inches long(ref: photo32)
. Insert these strips into each side of the film holder retainer, under the springs. Make sure that the strips are held firmly against the opposing sides of the retainer and that the slots face inward toward each other with a .192 (thousandths) of an inch between the EDGE of the SLOT and the FACE of the end frame surface.
Measure the distance, side to side, between the bottoms of the opposing slots and cut a piece of common window glass to this dimension x 7-inches long. Air blast one surface of the glass with #220-grit silicon carbide powder to achieve the frosted surface. Now insert the edge of the glass into the open end of the slotted wood strips to check the fit. Remove any interfering material from the side of the slots that is opposite to the .192 (thousandths) of an inch setback dimension of each wood strip. Remove the wood strips from the film holder retainer and attach them to the 7-inch long edges of the frosted glass with the adhesive of your choice, taking care that the frosted side of the glass is facing the .192 (thousandths) of an inch setback of the wood strips(ref: photo33)
. After the adhesive has set, recheck the fit of the focusing glass assembly in the film holder retainer(ref: photo34)
and remove any interfering material from the SIDES and BACK of the assembly so that the critical setback dimension is not changed. Next glue a strip of wood across the top, rearward facing, surface of the focusing glass between the slotted wood side rails to provide a gripping surface for installation and removal(ref: photo35)
. This strip can overlap the glass edge to provide protection if desired and can extend away from the rear surface of the frame as far as desired as long as it does not interfere with insertion and removal of the assembly.