CAMERA FRAME CONSTRUCTION


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        The fabrication of the camera chassis begins by obtaining the correct materials and cutting the individual parts to the desired size. For this particular chassis the required list of materials is as follows:

8-linear ft. (96-inches) of clear grade, smooth, FLAT, wood, of your preference, 3/4 x 1- 1/2-inches. I prefer kiln dried red or white oak because of the dimensional stability and availability in standard sizes at most lumber and home supply stores.

8-inches of similar wood stock, 3/4 x 2-1/2-inches.

48-inches of similar wood stock, 3/4 x 3/4-inch.

24-inches of similar wood stock, 1/8 x1/2-inch This stock will be utilized for the light dam surrounding the lens board.

6-linear ft. (72-inches) of 3/4-inch aluminum channel. This channel must have an INSIDE dimension of 3/4-inch, and is available in the aluminum stock racks at most hardware and home supply stores.

16-inches of 1/8 thick x 1-1/4-inch wide aluminum flat stock.

16 PANHEAD sheet metal screws, #10 x 5/8-inch in length.

2 CARRIAGE bolts, with 1/4-20 thread, 2-inches in length.

2 short shank RIVITS, 1/8-inch in diameter. Small machine screws, approx. 3/8-inch long, with nuts and washers to match can also be used if you don't have access to a pop- rivet applier.

2 metal WASHERS, with a 1/4-inch CLEARANCE hole, and a 3/4 to 1-inch outside diameter.

4 nylon WASHERS, with a 1/4-inch CLEARANCE hole, and a 3/4 outside diameter.

4 self-tapping studs, 1/4-20-thread, 2-1/2-inches long. These studs will have 1/4-20- machine thread on one end and a self- tapping (screw) thread on the other end.

6 plastic knobs with a threaded metal insert tapped for 1/4-20-thread. Two of these items must be as LOW in height as possible to allow for clearance of the pivoting end frames. The remaining 4 may be of any convenient size for easy gripping and adjustment.

12 inches of thin, flat, spring stock, 1/2-inch wide. I use BANDING material that is used to hold items onto pallets for shipping. Thin, flat, brass or steel stock is also available at most hobby or craft stores in the modeling department.

5 x 6-inch piece of 1/8-inch thick aluminum or plywood to be used as the lens board. This item MUST be perfectly FLAT.

Adhesive of your choice. I prefer quick set epoxy to reduce construction time, but any type of wood glue will work if time is not a factor.

Don't forget that you will need a smooth, FLAT, NON-ADHESIVE surface to assemble the frame components. You will also need enough CLAMPS to hold the pieces in proper alignment until the adhesive sets.


Base Frame Assembly

        The construction of the base frame begins by cutting two (2) pieces of 3/4-inch aluminum channel, 12-1/2-inches long. The center spreader is cut from the 3/4 x 2-1/2-inch stock and is 7-inches long. At this time the two (2) end frame slider blocks are cut from the 3/4 x 1-1/2-inch stock and are 6-15/16- inches long. (ref: photo36)

        Place the two (2) pieces of aluminum channel, open side DOWN, on a flat surface to begin layout of the screw holes. Align the ends of the channels and measure along the upward facing surface to a point 5-1/2-inches from one END, toward the center, and mark this spot with a lead pencil or scribe taking care to align it in the CENTER, SIDE to SIDE. Repeat this procedure starting from the OPPOSITE end and then repeat the ENTIRE layout on the adjacent channel.

        Center punch the four points that have been marked and drill a 3/16-inch hole through the channel at these locations. Remove all burrs and rough edges and set them aside. Pick up the 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 7-inch center spreader and insert the 2-1/2-inch end of it into the, end to end center of the open side of one (1) channel. While holding the wood block tightly in position, transfer the position of the drilled holes onto the wood block by inserting a pencil or pen through the hole and coloring in the exposed area of the wood. Repeat this procedure for the opposite channel and then carefully drill a perpendicular pilot hole 1/8-inch in diameter and 1-inch deep, straight into the wood block at the four (4) previously marked locations, taking care to maintain proper alignment of the drill to avoid distortion of the frame as you tighten the screws at assembly. Next place the spreader in the proper position in one of the channels, by aligning the channels drilled holes with the pilot holes in the 2-1/2-inch end of the spreader. Insert a #10 x 5/8 sheet metal screw into one of the holes and tighten it until the head of the screw just contacts the surface of the channel. This will allow for any shifting necessary for alignment of the holes for the second screw. Insert the next screw and tighten it down firmly and then retighten the first screw to its final torque. Repeat this procedure for the opposing channel and you now have a completed H-shaped base frame.

        Lay the two 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 6-15/16- inches long slider blocks on a flat work area with the 1-1/2-inch wide surface facing up. Measure from one end of the slider block, along one of the 6-15/16-inch long edges, 3-1/2-inches toward the middle and place a mark. From this point measure toward the opposite lengthwise side, at a 90-degree angle, 5/8-inch and place a mark. In this location drill a perpendicular thru-hole 1/4-inch in diameter. Layout and drill the second block utilizing the same technique. These two (2) blocks are then inserted, with the 1/4-inch holes closer to the open end of the frame, into opposite ends of the previously constructed base frame and checked for fit. It is important that the slide blocks slip EASILY in the channels, with no excess play, for the entire length of the open track on each end. When adjusting the fit remove just enough wood to achieve this requirement.

        The base frame is now complete(ref: photo37). After temporarily marking the component locations, you can disassemble it and finish the wood as you wish before final assembly. Take into account the THICKNESS of the finish that you apply on the SLIDE blocks! You may have to sand off some of it to regain proper fit.


End Frame Construction

        There are two (2) identical end frames used in this camera and they can be constructed at the same time by repeating each step that is performed on both frames. At this time cut four (4) pieces of the 3/4 x 1-1/2-inch stock, 8-inches long and four (4) pieces from the same stock that are 4-inches long. It is essential that the ends of these pieces are perfectly SQUARE! so take a moment and check your cuts before proceeding and make any corrections at this time.

        Carefully remove any rough projections from the end of each piece. Place one (1) 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 8-inch long frame member on a flat non-adhesive surface with the 1-1/2-inch surface facing up. Line it up so that the edge of this item is aligned close enough to the edge of the work surface to allow the available clamps to reach it for positioning control. At one end of this item place one (1) of the 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 4-inch long frame members, 1-1/2-inch side up, at 90-degrees to the previously placed 8- inch frame member. The proper alignment of these items will be L- shaped and 8-inches x 5-1/2-inches(ref: photo38). After checking place adhesive on one (1) end of the 4-inch piece and clamp it firmly into position adjoining the end of the 8-inch piece, taking care to align items EXACTLY at 90-degrees to each other. Assemble three (3) more sections identical to the first and set aside to dry.(ref: photo39)

        The four (4) L-shaped assemblies are now joined to create two (2) rectangular frames measuring 8-inches x 7-inches(ref: photo40). Follow the same procedure for glue-up that was utilized to create the L shaped sections but now you will be aligning TWO (2) ends at the same time! After the adhesive has set gently remove the excess glue from the exterior surfaces by sanding or scraping. These frames must be constructed as flat as possible so that when the lens board and film holder are in contact there will no light leaks at the edges!(ref: photo41)

        Place the two (2) end frames on a flat work surface with the smoothest side facing up. Locate and center punch a mark at each corner of the 5 x 6-inch piece of 1/8-inch thick aluminum or plywood to be used as the lens board. Layout these points, EQUALLY SPACED from the intersecting edges at the four corners of the plate, 1/4-inch from each edge. Drill a 3/16 hole at each point and then remove all burrs and rough edges from the plate(ref: photo42). Place the drilled plate, smoothest side up, over the center opening of one (1) 7 x 8-inch frame. Align the plate on the frame so that the exposed area of the frame is equal on opposite sides of the plate. This border area should be very close to 1-inch on all four sides. After alignment hold the plate firmly in position and transfer the hole positions from the plate to the frame face by inserting the tip of a pen or pencil into each hole and coloring in the exposed areas of the frame. Remove the plate and drill a, 1/8-inch diameter x 5/8-inch deep, perpendicular hole at each marked point. Place the lens plate back on the frame and realign the corner holes with the corresponding holes of the frame. Temporarily insert a PANHEAD sheet metal screw, #10 x 5/8-inch in length, into each hole in the lens board. Turn all four screws until the head of the screw is firmly set against the board and the board is firmly held against the frame with no visible air gap between them.(ref: photo43) Do not OVERTIGHTEN the screws it will WARP the lens board!

        The light dam, fabricated from the 24 x 1/2-inch x 1/8-inch thick wood stock, is now installed in position surrounding the lens board. Each side of the light dam will be cut individually to maintain the precise alignment required to prevent light leaks at the edges. Place the 24 x 1/2-inch x 1/8-inch thick wood stock, 1/2-inch surface facing the frame, adjacent to one (1) of the 5-inch long sides of the lens board. Align the square end of the thin wood stock to one corner of the lens board and while holding it firmly in position transfer the length of this edge of the lens board to the wood strip with a sharp pencil. Cut the wood strip at this point to obtain the first part of the light dam and then repeat this procedure along the other 5-inch side of the board to obtain the second part. These two (2) items are now rechecked for length and trimmed or re-cut as necessary for correct size. At this time apply adhesive to only one (1) of the 1/2-inch wide surfaces of the two thin wood strips and glue them in position alongside the lens board in the corresponding 5-inch wide location. Do not use excessive amounts of adhesive because you want the thin wood strip to adhere only to the frame and not to the lens board!

        Position the remaining portion of the thin wood strip parallel to one of the 6-inch edges of the lens board. Align the square end of the strip even with the outermost corner of a previously installed 5-inch wood strip so that the outside intersecting corners of each form a 90-degree angle. Hold the strip firmly in position and mark the overall length of the strip at the outermost corner of the opposite 5-inch wood strip. Cut this strip to length and then repeat the procedure utilized to mark the length of this side strip to mark the length of the strip on the opposite side. Cut the second strip to the required length and then repeat the glue application used on the 5-inch strips to adhere the two (2) 7-inch wood strips in the corresponding position alongside the 6-inch sides of the lens board. Allow the adhesive to set and then remove the four (4) screws holding the lens board in position and gently remove it with gentle pressure from the backside of the frame. If any of the surrounding wood strips are dislodged as the lens board is removed reposition and re-glue them at this time.

        Remove any excess adhesive from the assembly and apply the finish as desired. After the finish has dried recheck the lens board for proper fit and remove excess material from its edges, as needed, to achieve a snug fit within the thin wood light dam that you have placed in position around it. The lens board may now be reattached to the frame to complete the construction of the FRONT end frame. (ref: photo44)

        The frame for the back of the camera has already been constructed and now all that remains is the installation of the film holder retainer in the proper position on the rearward facing surface of the frame. To correctly fit the retainer a film holder of the desired format must be obtained at this time.

        Place the film holder face down onto the smoothest face of the remaining end frame with the film exposure opening roughly aligned with the open area of the frame. The film holder should face the edge of the frame that will become the upward facing edge when it is installed in the camera uprights. Lightly clamp the film holder using spring-loaded clamps and then slide the film holder into position so that the TOP (facing the slide removal area) edge of the retaining lip is aligned with the top, INSIDE, edge of the frame opening. This lip is usually quite small and is utilized to retain the film holder in position after insertion into the retainer bracket(ref: photo45) Flip the frame over and check the alignment of the exposure area of the film holder with the opening in the frame. Realign as necessary to center the openings in relation to each other, taking care that the retaining lip is still in the proper position (previously described), and outline the film holder dimensions on the frame back using a sharp pencil. Remove the film holder and place a straight edge in alignment with the UPPER inside edge of the frame opening. Draw a line on the frame face, outwards from the side edge of the frame opening, stopping when the line intersects the film holder outline. Slide the straight edge toward the BOTTOM edge of the face of the frame 1/8- inch and draw a line parallel to the first(ref: photo46). Using an x-acto knife or chisel remove the material between the two parallel lines to a depth of 1/8-inch. There will now be two (2) notches, one (1) on each side of the frame opening, that are approximately 1/8-inch high x 3/8-inch wide x 1/8-inch deep. The upper edge of these notches should be aligned with the upper inside edge of the frame opening.(ref: photo47)

        One more area of wood needs to be removed before we can complete the installation of the film holder retaining bracket. Extending across the top edge of the film holder is a raised area that provides a gripping surface as well as a labeling area. Mark the position of the lower edge of this area on the face of the frame at both sides of the film holder. Remove the film holder and draw a line between these two points, extending it to the outside edges of the frame(ref: photo46). Remove the material between thisline and the upper edge of the frame to a depth of 1/4-inch (ref: photo47). Place the film holder in position and check the fit between it and the face of the frame. The face of the film holder should fit tightly to the face of the frame with no gaps(ref: photo48). If it doesn't, remove material from the interfering areas until proper fit is obtained before proceeding.

        The film holder is now placed in the proper location and held firmly in position with spring clamps or a weight so that all edges of it, except the top, are freely exposed. The 3/4 x 3/4-inch wood stock that we are going to install in position surrounding three sides of the film holder serves several purposes. It provides positioning control for the film holder and also serves as a light dam like the one that we installed around the lens board on the previous frame. This raised surface will also provide a mounting surface for the spring retainer.

        Place a piece of the 3/4 x 3/4-inch stock across the bottom of the frame adjacent to the bottom edge of the film holder. Align the square end this strip with one of the lower corners of the film holder and hold it firmly in position while you mark the position of the opposing corner, on the strip, with a sharp pencil. Cut this piece off of the strip taking care to keep the cut as SQUARE as possible. Now check this piece for proper length by placing it in position on the frame at the lower edge of the film holder. Make sure that the length is exactly the same length as the bottom edge of the film holder and if necessary trim or recut to correct the length of the piece. Apply the adhesive to one lengthwise side of the piece that was cut and clamp it firmly in the proper position with the glued side in contact with the frame. BEFORE the glue has had time to set up, carefully remove the film holder and remove any excess glue, which has squeezed out from under the wood strip, from the frame surface and film holder.

        After the glue has fully set, replace the film holder and clamp it position. After rechecking the fit, place a piece of the 3/4 x 3/4-inch stock in position on the frame adjacent to one side of the film holder and align the square end of the stock to the edge of the previously lowered area of the frame that is at the top edge of the film holder. Firmly hold the strip in position and locate the outside edge of the previously glued strip. Mark this point on the new strip and cut it to length. Check for proper fit and then glue this strip in the proper location using the technique utilized on the previous strip. Now install a strip adjacent to the opposite side of the film holder using the technique utilized on the previous strip(ref: photo49). At this time check the film holder for proper fit within the wooden framework. It should slide freely in and out of position and have no excess side play or gaps that will allow light to leak in around the edges. (ref: photo50)

        Check to make SURE that the film holder retaining lip securely clips under the inside edge of the frame opening because if it doesn't the film holder will rise out of position when you pull the cover slide out before snapping the picture.

        The fabrication of the spring retainer is begun by measuring the overall length of the3/4 x 3/4-inch side rails that were just installed and cutting two (2) pieces of 1/8 x 1-1/4-inch aluminum flat bar to match these dimensions. Lay one of these pieces down on a flat surface with the length of the piece extending away from you and the 1-1/4-inch wide surface facing up. At one end Measure in toward the center of the strip from one lengthwise edge, 3/8-inch and place a mark. Repeat this procedure on the opposite end and then draw a line, lengthwise, between these two (2) points extending it to the end of the plate at each end. Then measure, from each end, along this line 1/2- inch and place a mark at these two points. Now measure down from the top, along the other lengthwise side of this strip, 3-inches and place a mark. At this point measure toward the opposite side of the strip, at a 90-degree angle from the edge, 5/16-inch and place a mark. A 1/8-inch diameter hole is drilled through the plate at this point after center punching the position. Center punch the two points marked on the opposite side of the strip and drill a 3/16-inch diameter hole through the plate at these points (ref: photo51). Position the second plate under the drilled plate and align all edges. Firmly hold the plates in contact with each other and transfer the hole positions to the underlying plate by extending the point of a sharp pencil through each hole and coloring in the exposed area of the underlying plate. Repeat the drilling procedure utilized on the previous plate and then remove all sharp edges from both of these plates.

        The layout and bending of the springs is performed from the CENTER of the spring material, proceeding outwards in opposite directions, toward the 1/2-inch wide ends. Begin by placing a mark at the center point of two (2) 1/2-inch x 5-1/2-inch long pieces of flat spring stock of your choice. Draw a line from one 5-1/2- inch edge to the other, through this mark and center punch the intersecting point. Drill a 1/8-inch diameter hole through the stock at this punch mark and remove the burrs. From this center point measure towards BOTH ends and place a mark at six (6) locations. These locations are at three points, 1/4-inch, 2-inches, and 2-1/2-inches from the drilled center point. Draw a transverse line, passing through these 6 points, across the 1/2-inch wide face of the spring. These transverse lines are the bending points of the individual springs.

        Bending the spring is best accomplished with a set of DUCKBILL, vise-grip pliers. Lock the pliers onto one of the previously dimensioned springs at the FIRST transverse line (toward one end from the center point) and bend the spring DOWN, 10-degrees. Relocate the pliers to the next line (toward the end) and bend the remainder of the spring UP, 10-degrees. Relocate the pliers to the last transverse line on this end of the spring and bend the last 1/4-inch DOWN, 10-degrees. Repeat this procedure on the opposite end of this spring and then repeat the ENTIRE bending procedure on the second spring. The shape of the springs will now resemble a W, when viewed from the edge, with the last 1/4-inch of both ends of each spring bent down at 10- degrees.(ref: photo52)

        To complete the retainer spring assembly, align the 1/8-inch diameter hole located on the center of one spring with the 1/8-inch diameter hole located close to the edge of one of the 1/8 x 1-1/4 x 7-inch long aluminum plates. Place a 1/8- inch diameter short shank rivet, or appropriate machine screw, through the hole in the plate and then through the center hole of the spring, taking care that the spring ends extend UPWARDS, away from the plate surface(ref: photo53). Align the edges of the spring and the aluminum plate and tighten the rivet or screw to permanently secure the items together as an assembly. The spring of the second plate is to be installed so that the assembly is a MIRROR image of the first plate/spring assembly. There is now a right-hand, and left-hand oriented spring assembly.

        Place the two (2) spring assemblies, SIDE by SIDE, SPRING SIDE UP, on a flat surface with the springs ADJACENT to each other. (ref: photo54) Now identify the end of the plates that the previously installed rivet or screw is closer to. Mark this end of each plate as TOP-RIGHT and TOP-LEFT, respectively.

        Position the BACK end frame in front of you with the open end of the light dam facing AWAY from you and the flat side of the frame facing down. Position the spring assembly marked TOP-LEFT on the exposed, upward facing, surface of the left side of the previously installed light dam with the end of the plate, marked TOP-LEFT, positioned at the open end of the dam. The two open holes in the plate are now aligned with the approximate longitudinal centerline of the 3/4 x 3/4 x 7-inch long wooden strip that the plate now rests upon. Align the ends of the plate with the ends of this wood strip and check to make sure that the spring is not in contact with the INWARD facing surface of this side. Hold the spring retainer firmly in position and transfer the position of the two (2) holes onto the surface of the underlying wood by inserting a sharp pencil into each hole and coloring in the exposed wood surface. Repeat this positioning procedure on the opposite (right-hand) side of the light dam to transfer the hole locations of the plate, marked TOP-RIGHT, to the frame.

        Drill a 1/8-inch diameter x 3/4-inch deep, perpendicular, hole straight into the wood frame at each of these four (4) marked points. Place the spring retainer assemblies back in their corresponding locations on the back frame. Insert a PANHEAD sheet metal screw, #10 x 5/8-inch in length, into the two (2) open holes in the surface of each retainer plate and turn it in until the surface of the wood frame and the retainer plates are tightly fastened together.(ref: photo55) (ref: photo56) (ref: photo57)

        Insertion of the threaded studs into the sides, of the two (2) previously completed frames is the next operation performed. Measure from one end toward the middle of the 3/4 x 8-inch long side of each end frame and place a mark at the 4-inch point precisely aligning it in the center of the edge from SIDE to SIDE. Drill a 3/16-inch diameter x 1-3/8-inch deep perpendicular hole straight into the frames at each marked location. Insert the self-tapping end of one of the four (4) self-tapping studs, 1/4- 20-thread, 2-1/2-inches long, into each hole and screw it into the frame until the self- tapping portion of the thread is completely buried below the surface of the frame. There is a small unthreaded area on the center of each stud that can be gripped with pliers to install it without damaging the threads or you can screw two (2) 1/4-20 nuts onto the exposed end and tighten them against each other and then use a wrench or a nut driver to turn the stud into position. Remove the nuts used for installing the studs (if utilized) before proceeding. This completes the construction of the BACK camera frame.


Upright End-frame Support Brackets

        Begin the construction of the end brackets by cutting the required components to the correct length listed below:

2-pieces wood stock 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 8-7/16-inches long.

2-pieces wood stock 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 7-7/16-inches long.

4-pieces wood stock 3/4 x 3/4 x 4-inches long.

2-pieces 3/4-inch aluminum channel 9-1/2-inches long.

        Fabrication of the spacer blocks is begun by placing the two (2) 3/4 x 3/4 x 4-inch long pieces on a flat surface and measure 2-1/2-inches from one end toward the center of each piece. Place a mark at this location, taking care to center it SIDE to SIDE. Drill a 5/16-inch diameter perpendicular hole straight through the two (2) wood pieces at this point. Remove all rough edges from these items and set them aside. (ref: photo58)

        The two 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 7-7/16-inch long base blocks are now laid on a flat surface with the 1-1/2-inch surface facing upwards. Measure from one end of the base block, along one of the 7-7/16 edges, 3-3/4-inches toward the middle and place a mark. From this point measure toward the opposite lengthwise side, at a 90-degree angle, 5/8-inch and place a mark. Draw a line through this point extending it towards both ends of the block 3/4-inch to create a line that is 1-1/2-inch long, taking care to keep the line 5/8-inch from the side. Draw a line through this point extending it towards both ends of the block 3/4-inch to create a line that is 1-1/2-inch long. Repeat this layout on the second block. At opposite ends of this 1-1/2-inch line, on the 1-1/2-inch face of these two (2) blocks, drill a 5/16-inch perpendicular hole straight through the wood block. Remove all the material between these two (2) holes on each block to create a longitudinal SLOT that is 5/16-inch wide x 1-1/2-inches long. Remove all rough surfaces from these blocks and then place them on a flat non-adhesive surface, with the slots exposed, and prepare to attach the 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 8-7/16-inch long upright channel support blocks (ref: photo59). Remove all rough surfaces from the two (2) 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 8-7/16-inch long wood blocks. Position one of the 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 8-7/16-inch long wood blocks alongside one of the lengthwise 3/4 x 7-7/16-inch long sides of the two (2) previously slotted blocks. Position the 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 8-7/16-inch long wood blocks so that the 3/4-inch lengthwise edge of each block is now in contact with the non- adhesive work surface, taking care that the center of the slot is 7/8-inch from the glue line (ref: photo60). Align the longitudinal center of each base block with the longitudinal center, of the 1-1/2-inch high surface, of one of the 8-7/16-inch long upright support blocks. Firmly hold the adjacent blocks in position and mark the position of the ends of the base block on the upright surface of the adjoining block. Apply an even coat of the adhesive of your choice to the 3/4 x 7-7/16-inch long surface, on ONE side only, of each base block. Align an upright support block in the previously marked location alongside the area of the base blocks on which you have applied the adhesive and clamp them firmly to the adjoining block in the proper position. After the adhesive has set, remove the clamps and sand or scrape excess adhesive from all exposed surfaces.

        The aluminum uprights are now laid, open side down, on a flat surface to mark the positions of the slots and screw holes. These items are to be fabricated as RIGHT-HAND and LEFT-HAND pairs, the difference between them is the flange of the channel that the mounting screw holes are drilled through. The side slots are all in the same location on each channel and are located by measuring from one end toward the other along the 7/8-inch wide face of the channel and placing a mark at the 2- 1/2-nch and 4-inch positions. Center these points, SIDE to SIDE, and center punch them. Drill a perpendicular 5/16-inch diameter hole through the channels at the marked positions (2 holes per channel).

        Remove the metal from the area between these holes to create a 1-1/2-inch long longitudinal slot at one end of each channel. Mark the slotted end of the channels as the TOP. Orient all four (4) channels with the TOP end facing the same direction and proceed by rotating them onto the 9/16 x 9-1/2-inch long longitudinal side flange. Now divide the four channels into pairs, two with the 9/16-inch wide flanges facing to the left and the flanges of the other pair facing to the right. Measure toward the slotted end of the channels and place a mark at the 3/8 and 1-5/16-inch points. Center these marks on the flange face, SIDE to SIDE, and then center punch each point. Drill a 3/16-inch diameter perpendicular hole straight through the flange at these eight (8) points and then remove all burrs and sharp edges.(ref: photo61)

        For ease of installation and later removal the uprights are installed with the heads of the mounting screws facing toward the slotted surface of the support blocks. Begin by placing one of the support blocks on a flat surface, in an upright position, with the slotted portion of the assembly toward you. Slip the open side of one of the uprights into position over the extended portion of the wood block so that it raises upward, perpendicular from the work surface with the slotted area of the aluminum channel at the top and the screw holes facing you. Hold the two (2) items firmly in position and transfer the hole positions of the upright onto the surface of the underlying wood by inserting the tip of a sharp pencil into each screw hole and coloring in the exposed area of the wood. Place the second upright in position on the opposite side of the block and repeat the previous procedure to complete the hole layout. Mark the pieces so that they can be replaced in the same position to avoid misalignment of the screw holes at assembly. Repeat the entire layout procedure on the second support block and then drill a perpindicular1/8-inch diameter hole straight through the block at the eight (8) marked locations.

        Attach one of the aluminum uprights, in the corresponding position, on each of the two (2) support blocks by inserting a #10 x 5/8-inch long PANHEAD sheet metal screw into each drilled hole. Tighten them until the head of the screw is firmly in contact with the metal surface and the upright is held firmly in position against the block. (ref: photo62)


End Frame/Upright Assembly

        Begin by inserting one of the studs, extending from the sides of the previously constructed end frames, into the 5/16-inch diameter hole located in the center of one (1) of the 3/4 x 3/4 x 5-inches long wood slider blocks. Repeat this procedure for the remaining three (3) blocks. Position one of the end frame support block assemblies on a flat surface in front of you with the aluminum upright extending away from you with its 9/16-inch wide flange in full contact with the work surface. Place the BACK end frame, with its flat surface facing down and in contact with the work surface, in position above the support block adjacent to this aluminum upright taking care that the TOP of the frame (open end of the film holder retainer) is facing AWAY from the base block assembly.

        Insert the stud and slide block into the open side of the aluminum upright extending the exposed end of the stud through the slotted opening. Place one (1) of the 4 nylon WASHERS, with a 1/4-inch CLEARANCE hole and a 3/4 outside diameter, over the protruding stud and then turn one of the 6 plastic knobs, with a threaded metal insert tapped for 1/4-20-thread, onto the end of the stud and tighten it firmly to lock the upright and the end frame tightly together(ref: photo63). Place one of the OPPOSITE aluminum uprights in place over the stud and slider block on the open side of the frame and attach it to the base block assembly utilizing two (2) #10 x 5/8-inch long PANHEAD sheet metal screws tightened firmly into position. Install the plastic washer and knob on the exposed stud and tighten firmly(ref: photo64). Repeat this entire procedure to construct the FRONT end frame and upright assembly(ref: photo65). The base frame and end frame/upright assemblies are now completed and the bellows may be installed.



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