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We used silane treated (not volan*) 6 oz glass cloth and System Three Clear Coat epoxy. The epoxy is very non-viscous,
colorless, and slow to harden, so it was easily applied using a roller. A squeegee did not appear needed. Because
I did not want to take the time to let it dry before applying epoxy, I did not wet out and/or steam iron the wood to raise
the grain and cause staple holes to shrink. Consequently the runny epoxy tended to go into the holes, and while the
cloth did not develop air pockets, the effect is visible and will need attention later. I don't mind the look of the
holes themselves, but I don't like the depressions along the holes. This is a reason for stapleless construction that
I haven't encountered previously, but that might convince me to use it next time. The epoxy that leaked through the
holes caused extra work later on, when I sanded the inside. This problem would of course be less severe with a more
viscous epoxy, or if the hull had been precoated with epoxy before glassing, but I think the advantages of clear coat and
glassing bare wood outweigh it.
You can see some of the details that we added here: the eyes and the 1/8" thick ash stem band that is really for looks,
since the glass/epoxy is stronger than any wood.
* See the links section for info on volan vs silane treated glass cloth.
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