Tips and solutions:  

Don't be afraid to do it yourself.  

Remember, amateurs built the ark. 

Professionals built the Titanic.

Modern wiper blades for stepdown Trico 33-101 classic wiper blade.  7.88 each at Advance Auto Parts.  These are new production, not old stock with stale wiping rubber. They have a satin stainless steel finish to closely match the original wipers. Can be ordered from any parts store. (7.88 each at Advance Auto Parts)

Looking for a better replacement for those wire mesh filter elements on your Hudson? K&N part number E-2550 will bolt right in place on those '48-54 transverse-mounted air cleaners, including Twin-H and Jet. Obviously this only applies to the non-oil bath type air cleaner assemblies. The best part is that in addition to great flow, K&N elements are "rechargeable" (cleanable) using one of their reasonably priced recharge kits.  Here are the dimensions of the K&N filter element E-2550 as shown on their website; O.D.=7.0", I.D.=5.188", Height=3.125". This O.D. is slightly larger than the stock wire mesh insert, which actually works pretty slick because the thick rubber sealing surface sits right where it needs to seal well. This also makes up for the slightly shorter height, making the whole installation look O.E.M. without any mods. (Posted on forum by Hudson308)

bronze valve guides from Gert Kristiansen at (801) 486-1635

List of parts being reproduced for HET cars.  

This is not a interchange, but list of new reproduction parts with vendor who sells them.  Compiled by Jon Battle.  Notify him of any he may have missed.   http://mysite.verizon.net/detailed1/Repro Table.htm

A  must have!  Old Backhus Swaps manual has been scanned and placed online by Ken Kates in PDF format.  Click here and you can print up entire manual.  A lot of this is no longer available, but there is also a lot of valuable information.  Thanks, Ken.   http://members.aol.com/sanjuana/Images/HudsonSwapsManual.pdf

________________________________________________________________________________________________

Front shock support plates for 1940 thru step down -  better than new available from  Doug Wildrick @ 30.00 a pair.  Click here for price list of Doug's available clutch  supplies and services

Note from Dave Sollon; Total convertible production of 1954 was 244,  with no breakdown by model Hornet and Super Wasp according to Hudson records in archives of Jack Miller.  Of these,  55 are known to survive with 49 Hornet and 6 Super Wasp convertibles registered.   If you know of any 1954 Hudson convertible, please e-mail me serial number and I will make sure it is listed.

NAPA numbers for radiator hoses for stepdown7096 upper, 8623 lower.  You need to cut  end of hose for proper length.

Wiper transmissions:

Trico Part #     Hudson Part #          Side        Application  

81351                    213582                  L          1948-50 all

81352                    213581                  R                 “  

81351 - 1               225107                  L          1951 except Hollywood          

81352 - 1               225106                  R                  “  

81351 - 2               228227                  L          1951 Hollywood          

81352 - 2               228226                  R                   “  

81351 - 3               230055                  L          1952  (See note 1)

81352 - 3               230054                  R             “            “  

81352 - 4               235786                  R         1953-54 Jet  (See below for LH side  

81351 - 5               233501                  L          1952-54  except Jet  (See note 2)

81352 - 5               233500                  R                           “        including Jet  (See note 2)                                

Notes: 

1. Cars with wiper motor mounted to the right of firewall centerline
2. 1952s with wiper motor mounted to the left of firewall centerline

Easy alignment after hood removal- before removing hood, drill two 1/8" holes thru hood and hinge  near bolts that hold hood.   When reinstalling hood, place ice picks, or  small pin for perfect alignment!

Safety tip:  3rd brake light can be installed on 1951-54 step down cars with 12 volt  conversion with no drilling or body modifications.  GM van take off LED Brake lights are available at all major flea markets for 15.00 to 25.00.  Fits between 1951 center bumper guards  or can be shortened slightly to fit inside horse collar.   Clear silicone will hold light to bumper Run one wire to ground and one to brake light switch.  (Light is polarized, so you may have to reverse wires)  

This also can be installed on 6 volt system using inverter that changes 6 volt positive ground to 12 volt negative ground available for about 70.00 from Antique Auto Radio (727) 785-8733 http://www.antiqueautomobileradio.com/  I installed one on our 52 Hornet and it works fine.  I glued magnets to bottom of light and place it above trunk lid below window.  (I ran wires under trunk mat with plug, so light can be removed for shows.)  

(click for large size)

1948-1952 points Autolite IGP-3028GS

twin h heat insulator gasket to replace stack under carbs out of bakelite Delco 3692799

stepdown tie rod ends  NAPA 269-2241 right, 269-2240 left, 

1939-47 tie rod ends NAPA 269-2009-2480/2692018

drive shaft universal joints   NAPA 2100153 or Precision 369

front hydro seal Victor 49721

52-54 Pinion seal NAPA 47559

CAR QUEST Numbers for brake shoes for stepdown RS-263 and RS-9 thanks to Robbie Williams

Paper filters for twin H:

NAPA 2110, AC A130C, Fram CA1-1PL, CARQUEST 87110, Motorcraft FA11, Purolator A20021, WIX 42110.

 Stepdown carrier bearing for drive shaft 88506

  A site you can go to and get paint color information for any year Hudson courtesy of Sam Jackson.....http://autocolorlibrary.com/

How to woodgrain your dash.  The following information was presented by Dr. Wendell Spreadbury at the 1999 Big Country Regional Meet Shreveport La.
  http://members.aol.com/stepdown53/woodgrain0001.htm

Starter Bendix for 51-56 with automatic transmission from Park Waldrop:  It seems some parts houses (or their vendors) list a number 130R Bendix for these starters. But it has a ''nose housing'' that's a bit too large in diameter -- it looks like it would fit OK, but when installed drags against the inside of the starter nose casting. My local guy worked with me and found a number 520  Bendix that's a perfect match for the original and does work properly. These item numbers are a rebuilders ''type number,'' and it's likely not all houses use them, but it appears that several do.

E-mail me for great article on graining faux finish by Ray Barker, 

Reproduction step down vent window gears made with zinc alloy, higher in aluminum than the Zamak alloys. The company claims its about as strong as cast aluminum.  10.00 each or your regulators rebuilt for 20.00 each plus postage.  e-mail  Gene, Myrna or Gregg Eshelman  

electric wiper motors for all years..http://www.newportwipers.com/app_main.html

Fan belts for all 1948-54 step downs w/o power steering use belt 41 and 3/16" x 3/4" wide 34degree angle; Gates 8370, 614 or 699, NAPA 349 will work. Cars with p/s Gates 8209 for gen/fan and Gates 8320 for steering pump.  

Gas tank brass float  available from any Ford dealer, part #COAZ9202B

1941 shocks   The Interchange for the front shocks are 1961 Chevrolet Corvette and rears 
is 1958 Caddie Gas Shocks work great.  From Paul Schuster

Gas shocks for stepdowns-

. Advance Auto Parts   Gas  Rear-PA 15740070 11.99 each    Above are Advance Auto Parts numbers

Front shock numbers from Jim Chatfield They are KYB gas shocks, part number KG4503 and sell for about $90 a pair. 

NAPA-use  94080 for rear,   

From Pete Booz : correct Gabriel stepdown gas shock #s:   rear 81147, front 82028 

Gabriel 82026 FRONT (GAS) Monroe Sensatracks # 5751
MONROE 94080 REAR (GAS)
                                                         

Shocks for Jet- I got the following on Terry Ray`s Jet page
Shocks (rear) Monroe # 5601024 - NAPA Regal Ride 1128 - Central Auto Parts (EA 31125)  
Shocks (front) NAPA Regal Ride 1126 

Front shock support plates for 1940 thru step down -  better than new available from  Doug Wildrick @ 30.00 a pair.  Click here for price list of Doug's available clutch  supplies and services

Clutch chatter solution suggestions  by Doug Waldrick, 9225 Indian Creek Road South, Indianapolis, IN  46259  317-862-4171  mailto:drdoug@ameritech.net    The fingers on pressure plate must be correct height, from top of the cover, with the new disc  installed.  This measurement should be no more than 1.450, and the fingers should be set at .010-MAX ., variations between them.  If this isn't done  correct, the clutch will probably chatter.  DON'T FORGET THE FLUID IN THE CLUTCH

Following items to check for clutch chatter (other than pressure plate and clutch Disc)

*   Check for cracked bell housing (usually passenger side of bell housing starting at cross shaft)

*   Input shaft excessively worn at pilot bearing end.

*    Input shaft (twisted and/or excessively loose-front transmission bearing excessively loose)

*   Clutch cross over shaft bushings (usually worn excessively)

*   Alignment of transmission with engine (bell housing bolt up surface free of dirt)

*   Back  of block cleaned and dowels secured in place.

*   Engine and transmission mounts are good and solid. (not soft-very important for proper             clutch operation.

*   Flywheel resurfaced  correctly  and torqued at correct specs with  clean flange on crank and flywheel.  Use soft setting Permatex and seal flywheel to crank flang (thin coat)

*    Throw out bearing fork not worn (what did old throw ought bearing look like-worn spots in bearing housing)

*    Engine tune (is it running properly)

Above items are not necessarily in order-each vehicle is different!\

Click here for price list of Doug's available clutch  supplies and services

Flushing cork clutches: make solution 4 parts tri-chlor-ethane and one part acetone, available at drug stores.  To flush-drain clutch, refill with flushing solution, start engine, with transmission in neutral, depress and release clutch about 100 times at various engine speeds, drain and refill with clutch fluid mixture.

Clutch fluid formula: 12 ounces Ford type F automatic transmission fluid, 12 ounces power steering fluid, 12 ounces Hudsonite, 4 ounces kerosene.  Mix all components and use 6 ounces per refill in clutch.  (this is a way to extend the Hudsonite, you have on hand, and  a less expensive way of refilling, when several refills are required)

Thanks to Ken Schulte, Western Reserve Chapter, for clutch info.

Short cut for wiring overdrive- This can be done with one heavy duty toggle switch and # 10 or 12 wire. The the o/d solenoid and determine which terminal causes plunger to extend and stay extended about 1/3 inch and mark that terminal. Take a hot wire, (I suggest using a hot wire that comes on with key) to one terminal on a heavy duty toggle switch. From other terminal, run wire, with 30 amp inline fuse, to the terminal on solenoid you marker earlier. That is all you need to do. 

When driving, with car moving and load on transmission, push in o/d lever, then flip toggle switch.   Leave off gas and o/d will engage when you accelerate again.. To get passing gear, simply turn off switch, accelerate and you are in standard gears. 
dave  s 

Note by Park Waldrop on 49 and  earlier models: 

Note for '49 and earlier solenoids: these have separate terminals for the ''pull-in'' and the ''hold-in''
coils. When using these solenoids, install a jumper wire between terminals 4 and 6 on the solenoid, and make your connection from the switch to terminal 6. Also, I recommend having the switch operate a relay, so the relay carries the heavy load of the solenoid. Simply get a basic headlight relay (three terminals) and wire it according to instructions;  where it shows a wire to the headlights, run that to the solenoid #6 terminal. The wires from power source to switch, and from switch to realy, can be light gauge (16-18)   "Park Waldrop" <pwald@mindspring.com>

If your car has been converted to 12 volts, a good substitute for the '50 and later OD relay is NAPA HR 201, a headlight relay. A bit expensive at $35.99, but has a 20A fuse holder built in, like the "real" OD relays. Connect #10 or 12 wire direct from battery power to the BAT terminal, then from LOAD terminal to solenoid terminal 6. Then, to wire like Hudson did it, use #16-18 wire from the ARM or GEN terminal of the voltage regulator to SW on the relay, then from GRD on the relay down through the kickdown switch, then the shift rail switch, to the governor.  As an aside, the technical support guy at NAPA headquarters recommended strongly against using horn relays for this purpose, as they're typically designed to be energized for a max of 20 seconds at a time.

(NAPA does not currently have a suitable 6v headlight relay, but said they're reviving one as a general purpose unit, and it should be available in a few months. It will have separate terminals for the contacts and both ends of the coil, so if rated at 20A or so, will be good for the 6v OD applications. )  per Park Waldrop   pwald@mindspring.com

 Electrical systems, including overdrives. Have been  a professional mechanic specializing in same in my earlier years, then USAF tech school instructor in electrical systems, then Electrical engineering degree from U of Illinois. The degree only helped understand the root theory of what I'd already learned at the practical level. Anyway, if anyone's having a tough electrical system problem or just a curiosity question, send him my way. Park Waldrop  mailto:pwald@mindspring.com

From Park Waldrop: In the course of doing a ''proper'' 12v conversion on my Hornet recently, I found a rare resource -- a wholesale shop that still can do custom field coil winding for starters and other motors (and generators, I suppose).  Through a good local starter/generator shop, they did my starter motor and top motor, and the price was fair. For anyone who needs 12v field coils wound, or for any applications where replacement coils aren't available, have the local starter/generator shop contact:
Ennis Automotive, Inc.
2400 N. Preston St.
Ennis, TX 75119-0772
(972) 878-3896

Overdrive kick down switch- : NAPA OD 6284, $15.49, per Park Waldrop

Amp. Treatment Comment / Part Source / ID

Battery n/a 12v. replacement Group 34 is same size as original 6v. battery.

Clock winder 12a. ½ W 25w resistor Parts-Express (parts-express.com), others.

Cig. Lighter 12a. 12v. replacement NAPA 782-1607, others.

Radio 4.6a. 1.3 W 50w resistor or convert radio to 12v. neg. ground.

Heater Blower Motor 6a. (on Hi) 1 W 50w resistor Mount inside heater blower housing.

Turn Flasher n/a 12v. flasher NAPA 7310, Tridon EL-13 (Pep Boys $8.29, also at Auto Zone, etc.).

Horn Relay n/a 12v. replacement NAPA/Echlin HR-101 or equivalent.

Horns very high use original 6v. or find suitable 12v. horns at junkyard.

Fuel/Temp gauge regulator n/a 12v. replacement NAPA/Echlin IR2¹.

5" spotlight n/a 12v. replacement NAPA/Wagner 4416-1.

OD relay (see Tech Note 1) n/a 12v. replacement Radio Shack 275-226 $6; Advance Auto A-715 $4; others.²

OD solenoid (’50-’54) n/a 12v. replacement ’56 Chevy, Ford, Studebaker, other 12v. ODs (or use ’48-’49 sol. – see below).

OD solenoid (’48-’49 type) 20a./1.5a. 16 ga. Feed (pull-in) See Technical Notes 1 and 2 for more details.

4 W resistor (hold-in) 4W 25w "dummy load" resistor or equivalent. See * under Technical Note 2.

Ignition coil and n/a 12v. replacement NAPA/Echlin IC-12 (for ‘56 Hornet 6). This coil has built-in ballast resistor. If you
ballast resistor want to bypass the resistor during engine cranking, use coil IC-14 with separate
ballast resistor ICR-13, and use starter solenoid ST-81⁶.

Starter solenoid n/a 12v. replacement NAPA/Echlin ST-84 if no ballast resistor bypass desired; otherwise ST-81.

Starter n/a 12v. field coils Local starter/generator rebuild shop.³

Generator n/a 12v. alternator Delcotron 10 SI series. NAPA 13-4031 (65a) or 13-4200 (80a); for ’78-’82 Chevy
Malibu and others with small block V-8. See Tech Note 5 for proper wiring hookup.

Lamp bulb conversion 6v 12v 6v 12v

Tail/stop, park 1154 > 1157 Courtesy lamps 81 > 1073

Turn signal 1129 > 1156 License plate 63 > 67

Dome 87 > 89 or 1073 Dash lamps, grille emblem 55 > 57

Gen / Oil lights 55 > 57*

*If changing to Delcotron 10 SI alternator, retain 6v bulb for GEN light — see
alternator wiring notes, page 4.

Convertible-only items:

Top motor solenoid n/a 12v. replacement NAPA/Echlin ST-84.⁴

Top motor n/a 12v. field coils Local starter / generator shop.³

Window solenoid 7a.⁵ 0.82 W 50w resistor Suggest use two 1.6 W , 25W resistors in parallel.

DISCLAIMER: This data is provided to aid those who are competent to do general automotive electrical work. Use at your own risk. If you question your competence in this area, get qualified help.

Park Waldrop   

January 2005       

~I

---

 

Stainless trim removal tool- Go to any hardware store and get small single blade wood handle Red Devil paint scraper.  Be sure to spray ample penetrating oil and let soak for day or more. Place blade under edge of stainless and wood against body panel.and slowly pry bottom edge off retainers.

Front wheel grease seal for 1936-54 Hudsons modern style numbers Chicago Rawhide # 15960 or National # 482253

Stepdown motor mounts. You will have to check numbers, I have used these mounts for 15 years in our 51 Hornet with no problem.   (late model mount fits all Javelin, Hornet, Gremlin etc. Nuts are not the same as original Hudson and are not interchangeable. New nuts must be obtained as thread is different (at least with NAPA) per/ Bill Noro Western Reserve Chapter, The NAPA number is 602-1161 or Sealed Power 270-2330.  

Universal joints- 1936-54 Hudson  Spicer 5-200X, 5-153-X, or 5-121-X will all fit, used on Chevy `55-62, Ford `49-`60 and `64-`67.  Precision 329 ; Wesgo #N-2115-R; Chev. 55-62  #386451, NAPA 2100153                       pre-1936 Hudson  same as 1958-62 Volvo PV-444; 1957-67 Triumph TR 2.3 & 4 Neapco #2805X

Vernon Holt's Technical Page-As a technical advisor to the Hudson Club, the main intent is to provide a topical index to technical and historical articles in previous WTN, some chapter newsletters and books. My main interest has been the '48 through '54 Hudsons because I have been the "Stepdown" Technical Adviser for the Hudson Club since 1972.

Replacing head gaskets- tip from Joe Hermanson, Product Engineer, Fel-Pro Inc.  A few tricks to get the old sandwich style construction gaskets to work better.  You can start with retorqueing the head after a slight warm up, this may help with the seepage and blown head gaskets.  Also, you can spray some aluminum paint on both sides of the gasket, this will help with the seepage.  Another thing you may want to check is the condition of your fasteners.  Make sure your fasteners are in good shape and used with a good lube, when being torqued down.  If the clamp load is marginal, when the gasket creeps and relaxes you will lose clamp load and have leakage and blown gasket problems.

Ken Cates Stepdown Hudson page  -     very informative page, with photos, tips and links for stepdown fans. 

Click here- for twin H linkage diagram, courtesy of Ken Cates 

Brake interchange information:  CAUTION carefully compare the interchange part with your original part, before use.

Brake springs for all 1948 to 54 can be bought at NAPA return spring 80307, hold down set 80409

1948 -1954 Hudson Master Cylinder- WITHOUT POWER BRAKES-Napa/United # 3081
1948 -1954 Hudson Master Cylinder Repair Kit - W/O  POWER BRAKES Napa/United # 138
1951 -1954 Hudson Front Brake Shoes - Raybsetos #263
1951 -1954 Hudson Rear Brake Shoes - - Raybsetos # RR-55
1948 -1954 Hudson Front Brake Shoes - 11" X 1 3/4" - Napa Rayloc# RS-55
1948 -1954 Hudson Rear Brake Shoes - 11" X 1 3/4" - Napa Rayloc# RS-55
1948 -1954 Hudson Front Brake Shoes - 11" X 21/4" - Napa Rayloc # RS-18
1952 - 1954 Rear Brake Hose - Wagner #24404
1952 - 1954 Rear Brake Hose - Napa/United 11149
1948 - 1954 Front Brake Hose - EIS SP-1418 or Napa/United 10303
1951-1954 Wheel Cylinder Repair kits - Front Raybsetos WK-13
1951-1954 Wheel Cylinder Repair kits - Rear Raybsetos WK-36
Wagner/Lockheed Number for rear wheel cylinders for 1948 -54 Stepdowns FD-2447
Bendix Numbers for wheel cylinders for Stepdowns 1 1/8 inch cylinders 3128 ( left) , 3129 (right)
Bendix Numbers for wheel cylinders for Stepdowns 1 1/16 inch cylinders 3461( left) ,3462 (right)
EIS Numbers for wheel cylinders for 1952-1954 Pacemaker / Wasp Stepdowns 1 1/16 inch

Thanks, Ken Cates, for the tips.  click here to Go to Ken Cates page for more tips 

New  stepdown wheel cylinder numbers courtesy of Uncle Josh

Hudson Jet parts interchange parts posted on Terry Ray's page

Keys- easy way to have correct matching keys made for Hudson..remove glove box lock and locate number on cylinder it will match trunk lock, remove ignition and number from cylinder will also fit doors.  Take numbers to locksmith and have Briggs & Stratton keys made. Thanks to..... Wayne Wherle, Western Reserve Chapter

Floor & trunk repair- Wire brush off heavy rust.   Cut piece of heavy fiberglass matting, larger than damaged area.  Paint floor area and fiberglass with POR paint, place painted patch over damaged area and re-coat entire area with POR.  Do same with underside and it is stronger than new.  (Cloth can be shaped into reinforcement groves in floor)

Shocks for 1937 T  Here are some shock replacements for the `37 front from Jon Battle: Napa Monroe 2014, K-Mart Monroematic 2151 (or was it 5121? whew!)... gas shock NAPA 94051. Gabriel 7501-B; Delco S-207; Monroe K-11476 

Universal joints-GMB 200X u-joint fits the Jet as well as the step-down and earlier model Hudson back to 

Fuel pump for stepdowns, use 4 cylinder,  Ford Pinto pump, 1974 and up,  available at most parts stores.  One is,  Borg Warner single action mechanical fuel pump #41251 or 41118 E058L  

Electric fuel pump numbers Borg Warner #EP11 for 6 volt and EP12B for 12 volt

Gas tank float unit-1936 to 1956 Ford works for all Hudsons, 6 or 12 volt.  Float arm needs bent, slightly, to adjust.  Available from Vintage Ford, Dennis Carpenter, etc. for around $50.00

The diagram at left shows the terminal connections for the Radio Shack relay. To the right is a schematic view showing the relationship of the terminals. Connections to the Advance Auto, Auto Zone and other relays are similar.

Recent versions of the Radio Shack relay, and some of the ones from other sources, do not have the ‘’normally closed’’ (nc) contact connection shown here, marked as 87a. That connection isn’t need anyway for this purpose. (Note: "normally closed" means the contacts that are closed when the relay is in its "relaxed," non-energized position, as shown here).

Wiring for Delcotron 10 SI Series alternator

Discard the two wires from the old generator to the voltage regulator ("VR"), and the heavy wire from the regulator’s BAT terminal to the "battery side" of the starter solenoid. Connect a 10 gauge or heavier wire from the BAT terminal of the alternator to the "battery side" of the starter solenoid. Then connect a short 16 ga. jumper wire from the alternator’s #2 "blade" terminal to the BAT terminal, as shown on the diagram below. Next identify the wire for the GEN light, which will be the lighter gauge wire that was connected to the VR’s ARM (or "A") terminal. To be sure you’ve got the right wire, remove it from the ARM terminal, and with the ignition switch OFF, apply power to that wire and see if the GEN light comes on. If so, it’s the right one — mark it as such; we’ll come back to it later. Next, move any remaining wires from the old VR’s BAT terminal over to the "battery side" of the starter solenoid (this will require new terminal lugs for these wires, to fit the larger solenoid terminal bolts). After this has been completed, you can remove the old VR. Now, back to the GEN light wire — as shown below, it goes to the alternator’s #1 terminal, along with a connection from the alternator "energizing resistor" (see note 2 above for resistor sources). Mount the resistor where the VR used to be (thin brass strip or sheet material from Ace Hardware, etc., works well). Connect the GEN light wire and one from the alternator #1 terminal to one end of the resistor. Finally, run a wire from the other end of the resistor to the ignition switch terminal that does NOT supply power to the coil.

Typically a 12 v system runs at 14.4 volts when the charging system is operating. Assuming you installed a 12v coil, did you install an internal or external ballast resistor coil? If you installed an external ballast resistor coil, which actually wants to run at 9v, and did not provide ballast, the points will burn in less than a minute, I've seen it on the scope. When the points burn (hard to detect visually) the ignition drops off considerably, which might account for your muffler explosions, similar to coasting a car in gear with the ignition switched off, then turning it on, it can create quite a bang. Install a ballast resistor in series with the coil hot lead, and replace the points (again). In proper 12v systems, the ballast resistor is bypassed only during cranking, then is switched into the circuit in the run position. If you do not have this bypass, the engine will be hard to start. A single pole starter magnetic switch (one small terminal ) does not have this bypass option. A remedy can be made by incorporating a single alternator diode in series with the magnetic switch energize position terminal, run to hot side of the coil. The diode allows 12v to go to the coil during cranking, but will not back feed to the energize terminal (keeping the starter running when key is released) The polarity of the diode must be correct for this to function properly. Otherwise, use a ford style magnetic switch (some call it a solenoid, incorrectly, mounted on the fender well) with two small terminals. One terminal is energize, other is bypass. remember, Run position should not exceed 9v at coil (if external ballast coil).

E-mail us your tip or solution dsollon@comcast.net

Technical help by e-mail: 

Walt Mordenti, author of Walt's Garage  e-mail Walt for technical answers

Geoff Clark New Zeland rep of H.E.T... 42 year H.E.T. service specialist who has worked on most models.  Currently owns 28 Essex coach,  29 Hudson B. & S. 7 pass. sedan, 50 Pacemaker and 54 Jet Liner.   Currently restoring 22 Essex tourer.  Offers technical info  e-mail Geoff for technical answers.