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 | 7/10/07 - Bought my 1939 Dodge and had it flat bedded to the house.
Been in storage for almost 20 years. The last time it was registered
and inspected was 1990. Initial observations; engine is seized,
radiator is filled with mouse nests. No lights, no wipers, no panel
lights when I hook up a good battery. Brakes go to the floor, one rear wheel
is stuck and won't turn. Clutch does not engage or disengage. Where should I
start? |
| 7/15/07 - This car originally came out of PA. In fact there is still a PA
inspection sticker from 1956-57 in the windshield. The owners manual,
warranty card, warranty paper, and dealer brochure are all still in the
glove box. It's up here in New York now, I'm the 3rd owner, with 64,000
miles on the odometer. |
| 7/16/07 - Mice and rats had a party inside. I had to vacuum out quite a
bit of droppings, acorn shells, bones, and stuff. The interior is not bad,
but they chewed a nice hole up in the headliner near the rear window package
tray, and there is a big hole chewed through the kick panel on the drivers
side. The seats are not too bad, but the drivers seat definitely needs work.
Trunk is solid, jack and tools are still inside, original spare is there. It
has the optional heater mounted under the dash, but it is a radio delete
model. I poured ATF in the cylinders today and I am letting them soak. |
| 7/17/07 - Sprayed some PB Blaster between the drum and the backer plate,
sprayed a lot of it. Let it sit a bit then tried dragging it with the 4x4 in
4 wheel low. Took it down the driveway about 100 feet towing it by the rear,
then 100 feet back towing by the front. No dice. Wouldn't break free. Three
wheels are turning, the passenger side rear still does not. |
| 7/19/07 - Okay, today was a good day! Took the advice from the AACA
"Dodge & Dodge Brothers" forum about the adjuster bolts on the
backer plate. There was indeed four bolts. I turned the top two just
as described, sprayed some PB Blaster, and tapped with a ball peen hammer
around the drum. Tried pulling it with truck, and voila! Wheel is free now! |
| 7/20/07 - Well, another good day today. Engine is free, and so is
the clutch! I'm on a roll... I've still got some work ahead before I
can try starting it. I do plan on changing the oil obviously, but I also
need to get a good battery, I still don't know if the starter cranks or not,
may need to be rebuilt. Then I've got fuel system work to do, someone had
disconnected the mechanical fuel pump and installed an electric one. I want
to get the system back to a mechanical pump. Then there is the fuel line,
not sure if that is intact or not. The gas tank seems to be very good, nice
and shiny underneath, must had been replaced at some point. The gas in the
tank I am sure is no good. The radiator is not connected right now. I need a
couple hoses, will probably replace the thermostat, I already found a new
radiator cap. Not sure how the water pump is. I want to flush the entire
cooling system. Then there is the charging system. I've got lots to do, but
I'm on my way! |
| 7/23/07 - I found a brand new thermostat for it yesterday. I'll be hooking
up a battery soon to try cranking it. It appears to me that this car is a
positive ground. |
| 7/26/07 - Okay, here is where I am at as of today. I removed the old
thermostat and did a reverse flush on the engine block water jackets, then I
removed all the rotted hoses and flushed out the radiator. You would not
BELIEVE the crap that came out of the radiator. The previous owner left the
cap off since 1990, so you can only imagine. Nuts, shells, mouse droppings,
nesting, etc... To my disbelief the radiator actually has good flow from the
top tank to the bottom drain and lower hose.
Today I installed the new thermostat, and I was able to get brand new hoses
today, these are the fabric covered rubber ones just like the ones that came
off. I also poured a bottle of Prestone radiator cleaner into the radiator,
then filled the rest of the way with water and I am letting it soak a bit,
then I'll open the drain and let it out.
I also drained the oil engine today and let it drip for about two hours.
Then I put in brand new 10w 30. I charged up a battery, and tried the
starter, it WORKS! |
| 7/29/07 - I still need to check for oil pressure, and I still need to find
a new filter.
I put a good battery on it, and poured just a tad of fresh gas into the carb
and cranked it. No deal... wouldn't fire.
I pulled the coil wire at the distributor, no arching, no spark. |
| 7/30/07 - I picked up a new set of contact points and a new condenser
today, I'll be changing those on Thursday if I get some time. |
| 8/2/07 - Okay, today's progress...
I installed new points and condenser, along with a new rotor. I got sparks
at the points, good sign.
I poured a tad of gas into the carb and she fired and burnt the gas in the
carb! Blew a bunch of mouse nesting out the tail pipe.
Okay, new problem... I bent a new steel gas line to run from the fuel pump
up to the carb. When I removed the old line from the carb, something fell
out of the brass fitting where it connects to the carb. I caught it, but I
am not sure how it goes back in? It is a small silver colored metal piece,
about a half inch long, with a rounded end on one end and a pointed end on
the other. kinda looks like a tiny pencil. Does the pointed end go into the
carb or the towards the line? It honestly looks like it could go either way
so I am not sure? My service manaul has not arrived yet so I have nothing to
reference or look at, so any help would be appreciated.
Also, I ran a piece of new neoprene line from the pump to a gas can, when I
crank the engine it does not suck gas, will not pump anything, so I am
thinking the fuel pump is bad. Regarding oiling, it does not appear to
be pumping oil through the new oil filter. |
| 8/11/07 - I blew compessed air into the line today, there seemed to be
resistance, not free flow. I'll try blowing into the tank next. |
| 8/14/07 - Okay, now I'm confused... I have taken the gas line off at the
gas tank, still could not blow air out of the tank. I put the blow gun in
the filler neck, wrapped up tight with a rag, nothing would blow out the gas
line fitting. At first I thought the line was clogged, so I took the line
off. Line is clear. I can run a stiff wire into the fitting hole and into
the tank freely. I then pushed a wire coat hanger through the fitting hole
and clear into the tank, so I know it's open. Yet still, nothing would blow
out, and I could not blow air into the tank from the fitting hole either? Is
there some sort of check valve inside that prevents gas from running out in
the event of a gas line break? I took the drain plug out, air freely blows
out from there when I blow air into the filler neck. I took the sending unit
and float out and shined a light down inside and the tank is definitely
empty. So I don't understand. I installed new line and called it a day. On
another note, the gas gauge leads were indeed crossed at the sending unit,
that explains why the gauge was reading full instead of empty. |
| 8/14/07 - I put three gallons of new gas into the tank, then took an
electric fuel pump that I tested first to be sure it pumped, and hooked it
up to the line and tried it. Nothing... would not pump any gas out of the
tank. I wonder if there is a pick up tube or line inside the tank that
connects to the gas tank outlet fitting? Perhaps this is the problem?
I can push a coat hanger wire into the tank for a foot and half, about 18
inches. Then it bottoms out on something and I cannot get in any farther.
When I pull it out, it is not wet with new gas, but rather looks like it has
varnished bad gas on it. I'll be darned if I can figure it out? I bent a
crank into the end of the wire so I could turn it around in there, it
definitely does not feel like it is in the open, it feels like it is inside
a tube inside the tank, and bottoms out at the end of whatever it is. |
| 8/15/07 - I'm thinking there must be some kind of pick up tube inside that
is clogged. I'm going to try spraying Gumout into the fitting and seeing if
I can break it up. I'm using 100 psi. |
| 8/16/07 - I've got the thing soaking right now, I sprayed some Chem Tool
(like GUMOUT), into the line and I'm letting it sit a spell. Then I'll try
some compressed air again. I would never do it with the gas cap on.
Hopefully I'll have the good luck that you did and get it clear. Regarding
the fuel pump. When I bought the car, it had an electric pump on it from the
previous owner, but I too wanted to go back to the mechanical pump. I hooked
the lines back onto the mechanical pump and it would not pump any gas, so I
tried running the inlet line from a gas can, still wouldn't pump. Upon
taking it off I saw why, the arm was missing, it was removed. It looks like
when the previous owner put the electric fuel pump on it, he disabled the
mechanical one so it would not be operating. I was able to find a rebuilt
mechanical pump that looks like brand new, and pumps air when I operate the
arm. I'm getting ready to install that one, I already removed the electric
one. I ran all new lines from the tank to the pump, then from the pump to
the carb, so I'm all clear. |
| 8/19/07 - Okay, here is where I'm at today...
I tried soaking, I tried blowing air to no avail, then I tried the power drill
thing I learned on the forum and it worked like a charm, I used my wire coat
hanger in the drill chock, then drilled real slow. It busted up the blockage
and it's all clear! Now... have you ever heard the phrase when one closes
another door opens? Well, not in my world. When door opens another door
closes! I'm all clear but still no gas pumping from the tank. I have a
transparent fuel filter in line under the drivers side door, no gas in it at
all after cranking the engine and running the engine on gas poured into the
carb. Won't draw anything. I'm thinking perhaps this rebuilt fuel pump is
bad? Before installing it, when I actuated the arm it did pump air, so I do
not know?
Now a whole new problem has arisen as an added bonus to my current
frustration; when I was running it on gas poured into the carb I noticed oil
leaking under the engine. Upon inspection I found that the braided line that
runs in between the steel oil line from the oil pressue gauge and the steel
oil line that comes out of the block has ruptured at the fitting from
pressure. My oil prerssure gauge reads fully pegged to the right when I run
the engine on gas poured into the carb.
A blockage somewhere, or just an old fitting? |
| 8/23/07 - Regarding the oil pressure situation. I noticed today that the
gauge in the dash is still reading all the way over to the right, fully
pegged and the engine is not even running. In fact, I took the ruptured line
off today so there is no pressure at the gauge at all. I am wondering if I
broke the gauge? |
| 9/3/07 - I got away from the engine problems for a little while and worked
on the electrical system situation, I now have headlights, both high and low
beam, tail lights, parking lights, dome (reading) light, high beam
indicator, and wipers working. I still need to get the horns and dash lights
working. Now back to the oil pressure problem, I have a service manual now
and it shows an oil pressure relief valve down near the bottom of the block
on the drivers side, just above the oil pan. I am going to unscrew that, and
there is supposed to be a spring and a plunger inside. I am wondering if
perhaps the plunger is stuck as one you already said. Once I remove the
spring, if the plunger is indeed stuck how do I get it out and unstuck? |
| 9/3/07 - Well I took out the hex head plug and spring, the plunger was
pushed way back in. I took the oil lines off from both sides of the oil
filter and made sure they were clear. Then I took them off at the block and
blew air inside there as well. Then I sprayed PB Blaster into the hole where
the plunger is, as well as the holes above it where the oil lines go in. I
let it sit a bit then blew air in all the holes. I tapped the the block
around the plunger a bit with a small ball peen hammer, then I put a small
Phillips inside and tried to wiggle the plunger. I felt it moving. I blew
air into the plunger hole and it blew out where the oil filter line goes in
so I figure it must be clear now, as before I was not getting any oil to the
filter. I guess we'll see what happens when I try to start it again? |
| 9/7/07 - IT'S RUNNING !
I put a new flex oil line on this morning to replace the one that blew. It's
running on it's own now, new fuel pump is working. Radiator is holding. Temp
is good. Oil level is good. Oil pressure gauge is not working, need to get
an aftermarket one to see what the true reading is. |
| 9/7/07 - Okay, so it's running pretty smooth. I oiled the air cleaner and
breather, new engine oil, new antifreeze with rust inhibitor and water pump
lubricant. Now, next problem... I cannot put it in gear while it's running,
the clutch does not disengage. |
| 9/7/07 - Tried pull starting it and driving around the back field, would
not break free, still frozen. Going to have to try the putty knife I guess.
Got a new problem now too, running very hot, needle was fully pegged 212
degrees. Didn't blow any hoses, but I could hear it bubbling inside the
radiator. The reason why the former owner parked it back in 1990 is because
he was over heating and did not know why. Apparently the problem still
persists. Coolant is full, thermostat is new, radiator does not seem to be
leaking anywhere, hoses are all new. What else could be causing it to run
too hot? |
| 9/8/07 - I believe the water pump is good, I believe the radiator is good.
I do have the tell tale white smoke exhaust I think though of coolant being
burned. So I am thinking my head gasket may be bad. I have clouds of white
smoke when it is running, looks like steam, so I think I'm burning coolant.
This could either be the cause of the over heating or could be the result of
over heating? Hopefully the head is not warped or cracked. I am going to
start with a new head gasket I guess and go from there. I do not show any
signs of coolant in the crankcase. |
| 9/9/07 - Got feedback today from the forum that I should check the
"water distribution tube". |
| 11/3/07 - Well, I haven't posted any updates in quite a while. Not much
new to tell. I've got the 'ol girl tucked away safe and sound now in my barn
for the winter. I ended up replacing the voltage regulator with a new NOS
one and now all my lights are good. I have not addressed the engine
overheating problem yet, I think I'm going to pull the radiator and
completely flush it, and pull the water pump so I can see the water
distribution tube and whether it is intact or not. I am seriously
considering pulling the head and changing the head gasket. I'll see what I
can do over the winter, but with no power and no heat in the barn it'll be
limited. Will probably dive in again in the spring time. My goal is to have
her road worthy by the end of next summer. Time will tell... |
HAVE A NICE WINTER, SEE YOU IN THE SPRING!
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