This area will show tips and techniques related to building your own Raku Kiln. There are many ways to execute Raku
kiln designs; this shows what has worked for me.
The completed kiln set up. Burner and regulator valve from Marc Ward at Ward burner systems, an MR-750. Eventually
we went to Ward's two tank connector, which made firing much easier - no more tank freeze-ups!
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| The Red Raku Kiln Set Up and Ready |
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| Parts for the Top of the Raku Kiln |
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| A Steel Base for the Raku Kiln |
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| Part of the Insulated Firebrick Installed on Base |
| Kiln Base with All Brick Installed |
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| Note the kiln shelf is too low. Should be min. 6" ht. |
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| Porcelain Buttons and Wire to Hold Insulating Fabric |
| Kiln Fabric held in place with porcelain buttons |
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| Interior View of Kiln "Top Hat" |
| Stainless Bolts w/angle clips hold the top to body |
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| Raku Kiln "Top Hat" 16 gauge expanded metal |
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| Cutting Insulating Fabric for the Top of Kiln |
Wheels on the raku kiln allow it to be stored inside when not in use. Another benefit is that according to the National
Mechanical Code, a kiln on wheels is a "Portable Gas Appliance." This makes the kiln roughly equal to a barbeque grill
for the local fire department, should they become interested.
This kiln is a 24 inch diameter circle, the "Top Hat" is 24 in. high. The burner opening is approximately 3" x 5." My
original flue opening was 7" square, which is too large. I close it down to about 4"x 5" for a neutral atmosphere. A key point
is to elevate the kiln shelf 6 to 8 inches high, to make a combustion chamber below the shelf.
For more complete information on building Raku kilns, see Steven Branfman's excellent book "Raku – A Practical Guide.”
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