The Garden Gate

Now that our lovely new community room in Plum Creek has been completed, we will begin meeting regularly again as soon as a schedule can be worked out. This column will address some of the questions that come up repeatedly.

When is the best time to plant?

In zone 8b we have two great seasons to plant when conditions are just right to nurture our handiwork and minimize plant stress. Planting in tandem with nature conserves water and dramatically increases survival rates. Plan to use these cycles to your benefit.

Try to get everything new in the ground and growing happily 45 to 60 days before the intense summer heat sets in mid to late June. Your plants will thank you. By mid-May it is time to relax until the fall planting season. Mid-June through mid-September are best enjoyed at the pool or with lemonade on the front porch and not torturing yourself or any new plantings in the Texas heat.

The planting window in October and November is my favorite time of the year to plant. Our winters are so mild that by spring new plantings are well on their way. The weather is a delight to work in. Many nurseries close out their perennial stock and your landscape dollars go a long way. Seeds for spring flowers should be set out in November.

Trees are best planted in dormancy, which means late fall through February are optimum for our area. Planting at the correct time significantly reduces transplant shock and gives the tree a chance to establish before the heat of summer.

We are on a tight budget. Can you recommend something very affordable?

For about the price of a pizza you can invest in an antique rose for your yard and as a bonus enjoy flowers in the house for years to come. Talk about bang for your buck! These perennial heirlooms will outlive you and the antiques are fuss and maintenance free. Antique roses originate from classes of roses in existence before 1867 and come in an artist’s palette of colors and styles, everything from edging roses to roses that will cover the side of your house in a cascade of blooms. Be sure to choose a repeat, or remontant bloomer rather than a once bloomer. They are so magnificently adapted to our area that the major grower in the world is located at our exact latitude. Check out the Antique Rose Emporium website and call for a free catalog. Their antique roses are well distributed at local nurseries.

How can I construct a maintenance free garden path?

This is a great summer project since it doesn’t involve stressing plants in the heat. The rock supplies are available very reasonably at the local soil yard. Paths are great alongside a flowerbed and as a bonus, will never require mowing! Try this method for a charming and maintenance free path.

First, completely excavate all the grass in your designated pathway. Dig down four inches below the surrounding grass and level. Install a first layer of landscape weed cloth from side to side, generously overlapping the seams. Next, install a second layer of weed cloth lengthwise. Tuck an edging like the Fiskars product from recycled tires along the edges of the path and add a two inch foundation of crushed granite.

Lay out your choice of path stones in the granite foundation. (Smooth surfaced irregular shaped native rocks are my favorite). Nestle the stones, which should be about three inches thick, part way into the crushed granite. Check level and fill in with granite under the stones as needed to level. Fill in around the stones with crushed granite to the surface level of the stones and water in. You will need to top off the granite later after settling.

What is the best way to prepare a flowerbed?

Our central Texas soil is starved for organic material and relief from compaction and clay. Anything added should be lightweight and nutritious. A mixture of aged compost, peat and humus, and watering with a solution containing beneficial microbes are the way to go. I am also very pleased with the results obtained from adding a small quantity of basalt, a crushed volcanic product contributing a revitalizing para-magnetic boost.

Flower beds should be dug down well below the grass level and grass, rocks and clay should be removed. Some plants, like roses, require an even deeper root well to grow into. Mix in some good organic compost, lightweight chocolate loam and peat. The local soil yard has an excellent light weight aged cotton burr compost that is an excellent lawn top dress or flowerbed additive. The goal is to create a light, porous mixture that encourages root development. Forget about adding topsoil. The last thing your landscape needs is more poor, compacted soil.

Beds raised 6 to 8 inches above the grass level with another 3-4 inches of mulch will perform best and require little maintenance in the years ahead. Fiskars makes an excellent pliable black edging from recycled tires that will not fade or crack in the sun and offers an economical solution to raised bed support. Border plants can drape over the edging for a natural look.

Be sure to use a product with beneficial microbes to get the soil factory working for you. Earthworms are also essential. These industrious little gardeners work around the clock enriching and aerating your landscape. If you don’t see them in your flowerbed, it is well worth the investment to purchase some. Rabbit Hill Farms is a Texas supplier who will ship the best variety by mail order. This is a one time expense and an entertaining delivery. Earthworms know what to do. Place them around the surface of your lawn and landscape and they will dive right in.

While hiring your permanent gardening staff of earthworms and beneficial microbes, don’t forget ladybugs. They will keep your plants free of aphids and add some cottage charm for generations. Wet the plants (including leaves) in the area where you want to release ladybugs and scatter them on the plants after it is dark. By morning light, they will know where they live. Ladybugs released in daylight will fly away.

Don’t be tempted to shortcut the bed preparation process. It is hard work, but done properly, it need only be done once. Consider hiring help for this very heavy labor if you aren’t used to it. Work on your landscape a phase at a time and have fun doing it. Take shortcuts in the beginning and you will pay a higher maintenance price over time. Do it right the first time.

Can you recommend a strategy to save on my water bill without compromising the landscape?

To weather the heat of the summer, first apply at least 3 to 4 inches of good mulch around the plantings to protect the roots from heat and retain moisture. (By the way, the colored red mulch contains the same ingredient in chocolate that is toxic to dogs). Keep the mulch away from tree trunks or plant stems to avoid rot.

The summer watering goal is good root development. This strategy will produce stronger, more independent plants able to glide through the many Texas weather changes with little stress. Once well-established, most will do fine without added water except for times of severe drought.

Trees should be watered at the edge of the root circle and not at the trunk, where it is unable to absorb water. Water the tree in a circle that mirrors the edge of the leaf canopy above. Even drought tolerant trees will need a steady water supply for the first two years.

Water all new plantings and trees every week without sufficient rainfall in the late evening or early morning. On alternate weeks use a seaweed solution containing beneficial microbes to bolster plants against temperature extremes and encourage deep root development. Consider mixing polymer root watering crystals in with the soil in container plants to greatly extend the time in between needed waterings.

Plants prefer regular, deep waterings once a week rather than frequent light waterings. Keep the water aimed at the bed and not the foliage to reduce problems with pests or disease caused by too much dampness, especially when watering at night. Until you are familiar with how well your plants are actually absorbing water, make some checks at least six inches down to make sure the water is penetrating. The surface may look very wet, but below the surface it can be bone dry.

I’ve never really thought about the chemicals commonly applied to the landscape. What should I know?

Basically this: there is no reason to use them and many excellent reasons not to. The most consistently dangerous misuse of chemicals in the environment is by uninformed homeowners. At the sight of a bug or a weed they run straight to the local home improvement store for a gallon or bag of something that could ruin the water supply of an entire city. Ask an informed source before you buy if there might be a non-toxic alternative.

Of course chemicals work. So does a gun, but it may not be the best way to address the problem. Do not be seduced by chemical companies with a vested interest in selling a product and creating long term customers through chemical dependence. Read the labels and choose to be informed. Stop and think. If it kills other things, what type of a substance do you think it is? Why would you, your children or your pets want to walk on it or breathe it? Your landscape is a living, interdependent eco-system. Chemicals throw that eco-system out of balance. Nature knows what to do. Work with it.

For ants and fleas use diatomaceous earth, a powdery crushed marine fossil, which is so safe it is approved for use on pet food to control parasites. To control weeds, apply corn gluten meal seasonally in the sixty day window before weed seeds germinate. Corn gluten meal is a natural and effective pre-emergent also safe enough to eat. If you missed the window this season, mow and pull the weeds and be prepared to spread corn gluten meal in the fall.

Remember that after any construction process, the soil is in need of restoration and revitalization. Work with nature for better performance and to achieve the long term goal of low maintenance and decreased water dependency with a beautiful, safe landscape as your reward.

I am buffalo grass challenged. Can you help me with maintenance and weed control?

The decision to require native grass turf in Plum Creek was a far sighted mandate for water conservation. Properly maintained, the Bermuda 609 aka Buffalo grass (Buchloe dactyloides) requires only 20% of the water needed by a thirsty St. Augustine lawn and no fertilizer at all. But buffalo grass will never be St. Augustine, and if you treat it like it is you will have many problems. The good news is that it will be much easier to wrangle your new turf. More front porch time for you!

Buffalo grass was once the dominant warm-season grass of the vast American short-grass prairie. In the 1980’s, Texas A&M and the University of Nebraska began collecting and breeding a Buffalo grass for turf. In Plum Creek, we have a highly-regarded location specific all female variety called “609,” the top recommendation for the hot, dry, full-sun climate of south central Texas with its sporadic rainfall. This grass will grow perfectly well without human intervention. In fact, intervention is the source of most problems.

Fertilizer on 609 will simply enhance weed growth, as many residents have discovered. Products intended for St. Augustine lawns should not be used. Experts agree that the most common problems with the 609 variety of buffalo grass are caused by too much water and over-fertilization. 609 has a very low nitrogen requirement and well-intended attempts at fertilization will only benefit weed production. Ask who benefits from weed and feed applications to native turf grass and put your wallet back in your pocket. The grass clippings produced by a mulching mower provide all the nitrogen required

Weed seeds are airborne and scattered by wildlife. During the construction process, many fields are being turned over, so we will have to be especially vigilant until the construction phase winds down. The wet and mild winter we experienced in 2004-05 produced a record breaking weed crop, but on a happier note, it couldn’t be better for our fledgling trees.

To safely control weeds, apply a natural pre-emergent such as corn gluten meal in January or February. Weeds that can be controlled by corn gluten meal include crabgrass, dandelions, pigweed, purslane and others. The application rate is 20 pounds per thousand square feet. A pre-emergent must be timely applied 60 days before the natural weed seed germination cycle to best control weeds.

Corn gluten meal doesn’t kill anything, it just changes the natural conditions enough so that the weed seeds will not germinate. Corn gluten won’t effect anything already growing and can be applied a second time in late September. If the weeds are really bothering you in this unusual weather, pull the existing weeds and apply corn gluten meal every sixty days until the cycle is corrected.

What is the best thing I can do for my native turf lawn?

Once established, the Bermuda 609 buffalo grass does not require watering except in the most severe of droughts. Water conservation is really the whole point behind requiring a native grass lawn. The best thing you can do for your lawn is to top dress it bi-annually with a ¾” layer of a well-aged, sifted compost. This should be applied to the lawn after the first mowing in spring when the grass breaks out of winter dormancy and can be applied again in early November. Water it in well for two or three weeks.

Please note that top dressing is not the same thing as top soil. Top soil is just a notch above road grade and does not belong in your lawn or flowerbeds. Our central Texas soil is starved for organic material and relief from compaction and clay. Anything added should be lightweight and nutritious. Aged compost, peat and humus, and watering with a solution containing beneficial microbes are the way to go. I am also very pleased with the results obtained from adding a small quantity of basalt, a crushed volcanic product contributing a revitalizing para-magnetic boost.

I have had excellent results with an aged cotton burr mixture from a local soil yard in Kyle. Ask for assistance in estimating, but most Plum Creek lawns won’t need more than one to two yards of the compost mixture, which can be delivered to your driveway. The top dressing will also help level the lawn and is easily spread with the back of a straight rake. For maximum performance, our grass should be planted over at least six inches of well-composted soil. Top dressing bi-annually is the only way to add this essential ingredient after the grass is planted. With enhanced root development, over time you will recoup your top dressing investment in water savings.

Can you give me any advice on planting bulbs and flower seed?

For optimum success plant spring flowering seeds in November. Our hot weather comes on so fast in the spring that the normal package directions will have you planting too late. We had 90 degree weather in March. Don’t worry, nature knows what to do! The seeds won’t get started until conditions are just right. Our mild winters provide another bonus with two planting seasons, so take advantage of seasonal closeouts by ordering directly from the best seed companies in late September.

Spring flowering bulbs can be permanently layered in your flowerbeds in the late fall and most multiply readily and come back season after season. Don’t waste your money on tulips for this area, we don’t have a long enough cold season for them to develop without complicated refrigeration techniques.

The giant amaryllis bulbs sold around the holidays for forcing are fabulous performers in the flowerbed in zone 8b. Enjoy them indoors and then plant the bulb outside. They will multiply and perform for years. Paperwhite narcissus will also do very well outside and lend December and January bloom interest to the winter garden. Buy smart. Check the holiday sales for great savings on both.

Bearded iris are unstoppable and very showy performers that readily multiply and need division every three years. They come in a dazzling array of colors. Each color seems to bloom at different times, providing a long show. Plant them atop little mounds with part of the top of the rhizome exposed to the sun. They don’t like to get their feet wet and appreciate a little dappled shade.

I would like to add trees to my landscape. Do you have any tips for success?

Before choosing a tree, make sure you know the growth habits and full size at maturity. You cannot have good results planting a tree that will develop a 60 foot canopy in a 20 foot planting space. Likewise, a tree planted too close to the house will be a problem in future years.

Best to know exactly what you have and what size it will grow up to be. It will be easier and much less expensive to remove and replace a young tree than it will be when problems appear later. The free “Grow Green” brochure available at nurseries located in the Austin city limits is an excellent resource and includes pictures of recommended plantings for our region. Resist impulse purchases. Do your homework first and work from a plan.

When choosing a tree, dare to think outside the box. There are enough oak trees in this part of the country and most will not mature fast enough to look like anything during our tenure on the planet. It also makes sense to me that trees producing so much irritating pollen that they are in the nightly allergy forecasts are best avoided in a world with so many possibilities.

Why not choose something that adds flowers or edible fruit to your home? Certain varieties of apples, figs, peaches, pears, persimmons, plums and pomegranates do very well here. Meyer lemons, limes, oranges and grapefruits do well in pots so they can be protected from freezes.

Flowering trees that make a lovely show include the Anacacho Orchid, Blanco Crabapple, Desert Willow, Eve’s Necklace, Flowering Plum, Mountain Laurel, Redbuds and Crape Myrtle available in an array of colors and sizes. Consult a local nursery for the best varieties and resolve to purchase stock grown in this area. Locally grown trees are a reliable indicator of success, so ask questions. With a few exceptions, our yards are best suited for small to mid-sized trees.

Once you have made your selections, remember to call the utility company a few business days before you plan to dig to take advantage of the free underground utility marking service. For best results and to encourage root development, dig a large hole and replace most of the soil with a light, well-composted mixture. Unless you are used to this very hard work, it is well worth the expense to hire some help.

Test the drainage before setting the tree by filling the hole with water. Too much clay will keep the water from draining and cause water to pool underground and drown a tree that otherwise looks dry. If you have a clay pit that holds water in the bottom of the tree hole, it must be improved before installing a tree. Top off the planting with a four inch layer of good mulch, taking care to leave a few inches of air space around the trunk.

The first two years a tree is planted are critical in terms of adequate water supply. Even well-adapted, drought resistant trees need time to establish. Your new trees will appreciate bi-monthly applications of a seaweed solution with beneficial microbes and weekly deep watering. Watering at the base of the tree is a waste of water and deprives the tree. The tree drinks from the root line, which is a circle around the tree that is a mirror of the canopy above. For example, if the branches extend seven feet horizontally from the trunk of the tree, you should water in a circle seven feet out from the trunk.

Remove tree stakes after two years. Most trees benefit from regular grooming to raise the canopy and encourage graceful development. Be sure to wipe the lopper blades with alcohol between trees. As a general rule, lower branches should be gradually removed to the height of walking clearance as the tree grows up. Remove straggly limbs and dead branches. Reduce potential wind damage by removing crossed limbs. The Bradford Pears planted in many back yards are particularly susceptible to wind damage without proper pruning. The rule of thumb is to keep the tree open enough for a bird to fly through.

Address your questions about gardening in the Plum Creek area located in zone 8b in Kyle, Texas to cottagegardeners@earthlink.net for consideration.