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Getting Started in
R/C Model Boating
Many different types of
boats are available in today's hobby market. Ready-To-Run (RTR) boats are the fastest growing segment of the RC boating industry.
Today's RTR boats are nearly the same cost of yesterday's boat kits but do not require the extensive build time. Most RTRs
have the radio system and engine components pre-installed. They come in a variety of performance levels and usually include
a 2-stick style radio or an AM Pistol Grip 2 channel radio. Regardless of which radio is used, RTR boats are now easier to
use, require less maintenance, and can get you on the water in minutes rather than days.
Not only are they easier
to get running, but are VERY AFFORDABLE. Typical small scale nitro RTR’s
can cost as little as $300.00 COMPLETE! Most major hobby stores now carry these
models in-stock.
Hull Styles
Hull
styles determine how the boat will handle and help to determine the top speed the boat will be capable of. Water conditions
can also determine which hull design may work best for you.
V-hull boats are by far the most
popular boats on the water due to their ability to adapt to most water conditions. Deep-V boats are rough water crushers that
maintain high speed in choppy water. More shallow V-hull boats are more stable in calm water and give a scale appearance as
the wake it creates gently rolls off the bow.
Hydroplanes, unlike V-hull designs,
generally contact the water with two or more sponsons that help lift the boat out of the water and create higher top speeds
due to less contact with the water. They can be broken into several different categories. Catamarans are scale versions of
the thrilling high-powered, offshore racers. They handle the roughest water of all hydro-style hulls and maintain fairly high
straight-line speeds. 3-point style hydros such as the Pro Boat 1/12 scale Miss LLumar are typically used for inland racing
on calmer water. This exciting style of boat hugs corners at nearly full speed while throwing a 15-foot rooster tail of water
spray behind it as it rips across the water.
Outriggers are unique to the RC industry
and are made strictly for speed; the sponsons are detached from the main hull to help increase stability. Outrigger hulls
offer the best blend of straight-line speed and cornering of all hydro style hulls. Considered to be the fastest hull style,
Outriggers inherently require more experienced driving skills and are less forgiving when it comes to trimming (adjusting)
them. These boat require smoother water conditions but can reach speeds over 90 mph.
OPC, the Outboard Performance Category
is one of the fastest growing segments of our club. These boats consists of a simple tunnel hull, and a simple to install
and maintain out-board engine. common sizes are 3.5cc (.21ci) 'A' class and the 7.5cc(.4-ci) class 'B' size.
Many
performance parts are available for these craft.
The craft minimize the amout of hull surface in contact with the water by 'Flying' the boat. Using a ram-tunnel
effect, air trapped between the sponsons helps lift the boat.
For the best in relaxation,
sailboats offer the lowest maintenance and are very fulfilling in regards to boat-handling skills. With no power other
than the wind, skills must be honed to learn how to adjust the sails to take best advantage of wind currents. There is nothing
like tacking into the wind, seemingly defying the wind direction.
SAFE BOAT OPERATING PROCEDURES
The Camarillo Pond Rats wish to help you operate your R/C
boat in a safe manner. We think you
will enjoy your boat operation much more by following these operating procedures. By
following these procedures, you will protect anyone who may be watching you run your boat and also protect your boat from
damage.
1. Pick up your frequency tag from the tag board. YOU MUST
HAVE A SURFACE MODEL FREQUENCY RADIO. If the tag that you need is not on the board, it means that someone else is operating
a boat on the same frequency as you. DO NOT PICK UP YOUR RADIO AND TURN IT ON!
2. After you have the tag for your frequency, you may pick
up your radio from the radio impound.
3. Check operation of the radio, check battery, check range.
Does both rudder and throttle operate? Does the throttle close the carburetor completely? It’s more important to be
able to stop the engine than to have full throttle. When the stick (wheel) is moved to the right and left , does the rudder
move accordingly?
When all tests are completed and everything is working properly,
you are ready to start your engine.
4. Start your boat and WALK TO THE launch site
(or drivers stand).
5. Launch your boat (or signal your pitman to launch) and
bring it up to speed (on plane).
6. You must be able to drive a straight course on the straight-a-ways
and turn around the outside of the turn buoys.
7. When returning to the pits, after a run, make sure you
are able to stop the boat without running into the shore. Bring the boat in parallel with the shore. NEVER bring it straight
in. This will make recovery by your pitman safer!
8. Place the boat back on its stand. Turn off the boat receiver,
and then turn off the transmitter.
9. Return the transmitter to the impound area. MAKE SURE
THE TRANSMITTER IS OFF when setting it down. Return the frequency tag to the board. When the boats are running, you will not
be able to hear what your boat is doing. You must become aware that you now only have your sense of sight to control your
boat.
Your pit man is an important part of your boat’s operation.
He is your second set of eyes and will be talking to you about what is ahead on the race course. Become accustomed to someone
talking to you while you are operating your boat.
REMEMBER: SAFE BOATING IS
NO ACCIDENT!
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Glow plugs are common to all "glow" engines and are used with methanol-based
fuels. The glow plug itself is made up of a steel "plug" with a platinum wound wire element that when inserted into the head
of the engine forms the uppermost portion of the combustion chamber. In operation, there is a catalytic reaction between the
alcohol and the platinum element that, when combined with the right compression, causes the alcohol to burn. We initially
attached a 0.5-1.2V battery to the glow plug to cause it to glow, and remove this battery once the engine is running and the
element continues to glow through the catalytic reaction.
Change your glow plug if you notice mangled elements or
particles attached to it.
You will hear of glow plugs being referred to as "hot" or "cold" plugs. Both
of these terms refer to the heat range of a glow plug, and it is easiest to notice the difference at an idle. In general,
the "hotter" the plug, the richer the mixture can be at idle and the engine will continue to operate. The "colder" the plug,
the mixture will need to be leaned out in order to operate properly.
Assessing the Condition of Your Glow Plug
The
glow plugs on the market today are designed to provide good service to the user and may last a long time or a short time,
all dependent upon the way you choose to operate your engine.
Physical indications that you might need to change the
glow plug are:
a. Twisted or mangled glow plug element. (This is usually caused by too high a compression ratio.)
b.
Small "bumps" are attached to the glow plug element (This will generally be most noticeable during the break-in process.
These are actually tiny pieces of aluminum that have attached to the element and these will severely hinder the operation
of the glow plug.)
c. The glow plug element is no longer shiny but is dull, almost a white powder color. (This just
comes with age and is a by product of the catalytic reaction. The shinier the wire, the better the catalytic reaction can
be.)
Operating indications that you need to change your glow plug are:
a. The glow element will not light
with a charged glow igniter. (This indicates that there is a physical short or breakage in the element wire itself)
b.
Glow plug lights but the engine will not stay running once the battery is disconnected. (This is usually an indication if
the microscopic particles we discussed earlier)
c. Glow plug lights, engine runs but there is a perceptible loss
of rpm at full throttle when the battery is disconnected. (This is a typical indication that the white powder residue is building
to the point that the catalytic reaction of the glow plug is no longer anywhere close to being optimum.)
KEEPING ABOVE THE WAVES
You
can never have too much buoyancy in a speed boat. Fast speed boats splash a lot of water around and quite a bit
can find it's way inside the hull. If during a heated race, you flip your boat (God forbid!), it will also be in a position
to fill with water.
Place buoyancy in both the bow and stern of your boat and in the detachable cover or hatch.
With buoyancy at both ends then most of the boat will remain above water if disaster strikes,
the boat will also be easier and quicker to recover. Plumbers insulation foam from Do-It-Yourself shops adds additional buoyancy
and also strengthens the bows.
Setting Up Driveline, Prop
And Pipe For Your Boat
This is where the ‘metal meets the water’.
The biggest improvement that can be gained in performance with your RC Boat is the selection of the correct engine tuned pipe, proper
driveline instalation and preparing and installing the propeller.
Be sure that the basic running gear ( driveline, driveshaft,
strut) are properly installed in the boat hull. Be sure to check that the driveline and thrust angle of the prop is
strait down the centerline of the boat. (in some cases, the driveline is offset to compensate for prop torque.)
Ask questions of persons who are running the same class and
boat.
Find out the pipe length and pipe that they are using. Ask
if they are using stock or raised timing in their engine. If they use raised timing, you will need to lengthen the pipe a
little. Set your boat with the same pipe and length that they are using. This will be a documented starting point that you
know will work well. Choose your model carefully.
Be sure and follow the manufactures instructions for SHARPENING
and BALANCING the prop. No prop comes from the factory is running shape. It must be cleaned (casting flash) sharpened
and balanced to perform correctly. An UN-BALANCED propeller will RATTLE your boat to pieces. A DULL UN-SHARPENED
prop will not be able to cut through the water cleanly, thus more drag, more engine power use and less SPEED!
CARB INITIAL SETTINGS FOR ZENOAH 231 / 260
Stock Walbro WT-644 carb
High = 1 1/2 turns
Low = 1 1/2 turns
Stock Walbro WT-603
carb
High = 1 1/2 turns
Low =
1 5/8 turns
Walbro WT-488 big bore
carb
High = 1 1/8 turns
Low =
1 1/2 turns
Walbro WT-257 big bore
carb
High = 1 1/8 turns
Low =
2 turns
Walbro WT-813 big bore
carb
High = 1 1/2 turns
Low = 1 1/2 turns
Some Interesting Links To Related Sites
707 Specialties - Out-board accessories
Xtreme RC Boats
Marine Specialties
Bandit Boats
J&G - Toxic Marine
Boating Resource Directory
NAMBA Fast Electric Strait Line
R/C Universe
R/C BOATING LINKS
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