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By James Hecox (1849-1850) Part 5
Thurs Jan 17 We started in tolerable good season this morning and descending to the valley by a long and graduel descent passing through groves of Muskal [probably American agave, or century plant, used to make a fermented drink called mescal] the road being somwhat stony for the distance of 7 or 8 miles when we arived at the comparitive level plain baring no vegitation except one kind of small shrub with small green leaves and apearently an evergreen Our road was excellent and we mooved on at a rapid rate considering the weak state of our animels and arived at the Rio Virgin (River of Virgins) a distance of 15 1/2 miles at about 4 oclock we found here a fine grove of Cottonwood and a warm spring and on the hill on the south side of the small Creek that we Crossed and to the left of the road I found a great deal of the earthen ware that I before discribed on the Santa Clarra The warm spring is just at the edge of the small Creek on the north side and down the Creek to the left of the road a few yeards Fri Jan 18 We left fine camping place about nine oclock by leaving the creek and ascending a steep and bad sand hill and after proceding two miles we descended to the river and followed down the balance of the day crossing it a number of times and encamped on its bank a little above where the bluffs come near together making the bottoms quite narrow. This river is about 6 rods wide 1 1/2 ft deep and swift current with a sandy bed. The bottoms are generally about half a mile wide the soil composed of sand and gravel and covered with shrubery but vary little grass I noticed a great deal of fresh Beaver cutting and fresh cracks Sat Jan 19 We found good [feed?] at this place and came to the conclution to stop a day and let our stock recruit We had a tremendious snow storm last night and it was a tidious night to stand guard and the snow was about 4 inches deep ths morning but all disappeared before night. Our people left here a great many valueable articles of property in order to lighten their loads. Some of [them?] had butchered an ox that had given out but the beef made all who eat of it sick but our stock of provisions being nearly exhausted we ware obliged to eat almost anything Sun Jan 20 Our road lay down the river bottom still and crossing the river seven times making in all 12 times in two days the road was vary sandy in some places and some places vary soft and muddy making it vary hard on our poor weak teams Several men who thought their teams a little stronger than the rest concluded to leave the company this morning and travel on ahead and acordingly 3 waggons Mr Owens Mr Hutchens and Mr Potters left the camp quite early but we overtook and passed tham at evening again. We left several oxen today one we couldnot find this morning We traveled 9 miles and encamped for the night on a low hill or kind of second bottom and found good fead for our stock on the lower bottom next to the river. The timber has entirely disappeared except some small shrubs and it is one of the most barren and desolate regions I have ever seen Mon Jan 21 The company thought advisable to lay over today and the usual business of regulating waggons and throughing away propperty commenced and continued through the day and this evening there is some talk of the train dividing again there being some indaviduals who the others thought did not lighten their waggons suffishently to let tham keep up with the balance Tues Jan 22 We still traveled down the Rio Virgin and after proceding 10 miles over a vary sandy and bad road we encamped on a little rise oposite the southern point of the mountain that we have been traveling along the base of for several [?]. Here we had to drive our stock about amile north onto higher bottom to feed and I was enformed there wasnot but little there The company has left during the day some 4 or 5 head of Cattle who couldn’t travel and some of the men saw Indians last night and this morning but thay ran off as soon as thay saw thay ware discovered. The company held a consultation this evening in order to know the minds of the people with regard to sending a party ahead to the nearest settlement in order to obtain assistance in teams provission &c thay ware all of the opinion that it wasnot with the exception of Mr. Imus & Mr Rice who resolved to fit out a party from their own famelys as their teams couldnot stand it to draw their families a great distance further Page 53
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Thur Jan 24 This morning we proceded to get our waggons up the bluff which from where thay stood was about 200 feet high and so steep that our loose animels could scarsly get up it this we done by fastening a roap to the end of the tung and halling tham up by hand which employed all hands untill 11 oclock After loading our waggons which took us untill 3 oclock we traveled on untill 11 at night over a tolerable road except some sandy places and one bad steep and rocky hill to go down Our teams became so tired we couldnot reach the Muddy Creek and was obliged to camp in the sand hills about 1 mile before getting to the Creek. There was no grass so we corraled our Cattle untill brake of day Fri Jan 25 and than hitcing tham up we traveled on to the Creek bottom in crossing which we got all our teams and waggons mired down in a soft salt marsh and it took us all the balance of the day to get two miles by carrying our loads by hand and pulling our oxen and waggons by ropes The Indians are vary numerous and there is 40 or 50 now about our Camp thay all have long bows and large bundles of arrows and nearly all have knives Thay seem vary friendly but the moment thay find an animel out of sight of the camp thay amediately drive tham off among the hills Sat Jan 26 There is good grass here so we resolved to stop and recruite and the work of distroying property commenced as usual. We remained through the day and at evening we had a consultation with regard to sending ahead and it resulted in the negitive. There ware several in the company who wished to go ahead but again there ware several who wished to send that represented the enterprise to be an easy one that thay Mr Ustice Mr Tyrel Old Mr Imus &c said thay could Carry 40 lb and travel 35 to 45 miles pr day and Ustice asserted that he could travel on two small biscuits pr day but when thay came to be called on to go thay ware not there but 5 of us Messrs Grady Richards Frields Fox and myself resolved to go Sun Jan 27 This afternoon about 3 oclock we had our knapsacks filled and shouldered weighing together with our rifles pistles ammunition Canteens &c about 40 pounds We bid adieu to our friends in distress and took up our line of march. We traveled up a long ravine over a somewhat sandy road untill it spread out into a braud desert west the soil producing no vegitation except one or two sorts of small shrub We traveled untill about 10 or 11 oclock at night when we lay down and rested untill 4 oclock when we again resumed our march and arived at Capt Owens camp abut 6 1/2 in the morning a company of two waggons and 8 men who had left our train a day or two before There is good grass and water at this place Page 55
Tues Jan 29 This morning we arose at 4 1/2 oclock and having heard from Capt Owen that Mr Dunbars Co consisting of 2 carts and one waggon containing himself & boys and two other families Mr & Mrs Willson Mr & Mrs Tibits & child ware not far ahead we slung our pack and mooved ahead in order to overtake tham and at sunrise we discovered their waggons abut 2 miles ahead at a small Creek Called by the Mexicans Vegus springs laying near the center of the Valley and an exelent place to camp after Crossing along desert there being plenty of grass wood and water. There we found the grave of Charles Erickson a vary fine young man who had traveled from Missouri to the Salt Lake in company with us [Note: the Las Vegas Springs Preserve website offers some beautiful photos of the landscape, animals and plants of the area.] Wed Jan 30 We left camp at 5 oclock this morning and commenced ascending the mountain graduelly over a rough and rocky road which made it vary hard walking Our course lay to westward and towards a tall snowy mountain The day was vary warm as it has been for the last week and leaves are putting out on all the shrubs About 2 oclock we reached the foot of the mountain and following up a defile we found a small stream on which we found two families and ten or twelve men thay had been here 2 days and the first night the Indians had killed 7 of their oxen and one horse and when we arived was in momentary expectation of an atack by tham one company of five men who had been striped of all their oxen and proposed traveling with us if we would wait untill next morning so we encamped. Soon after dark the Indians Commenced hauling like large wolves in all directions in the hills around us This we are informed thay performed by means of a horn but it is easy to detect the deception by any person who is acquainted with wolves Thay did not disturb our camp through the night Thurs Jan 31 We left camp this morning with an addision of 7 men to our company and light two horse waggons and one pack horse We traveled up a wide defile of the mountain and turning to right we took up a narrow ravine towards the summit of the [?] The weather soon became cooller and by 2 oclock in the afternoon we ware traveling among spots of snow Vegitation was more abundent than it had been on the mountains sence leaving the Wahsatch range there being plenty Ceder and nut pine and some evergreen oak After Crossing the summit we began to descend and soon passed the bed of a Creek where from information we expected to find water but finding its bed dry we continued to discend graduely toward the plain we stoped and melted snow and cooked our supper and soon after we left the region of snow and descending along through groves of Muskal and Spanish daggars [agave?]which looked vary beautiful. We continued our march untill about 2 oclock in the morning when we came to a spring of water where had been several cottonwood trees but thay had been cut down by the emigrants here we c[aught?] Mr Seaton and Parker with their waggon and stoped at the plains about 3 or 4 miles back Fri Feb 1 We left camp about 9 clock this morning with the entention of stoping at the distance of 5 [?] miles to rest and wait for the waggon to come up. We have done so but it is now 2 oclock and no apearence of the waggon in sight yet and we seriously aprihen [apprehend] that they have been cut off by the Indians who are watching all parts of the road for the purpice of plunder the most of our flour was in the waggon and if it is lost we shall be obliged to turn back or starve about 4 oclock while we ware consulting about sending a part of our company in search of tham thay hove in sight to our great joy. Page 56
Sat Feb 2 This morning we arose about sunrise and searching we soon found a small spring of water about half amile below where we camped among some willows and concluded to remain here untill the waggon came up and take some rest being vary much in need of it having traveled 73 miles in two days and carried heavy packs besides our rifles and pistles over dry sandy deserts and rocky mountains where often for 30 or 40 miles we couldnot obtain water About 4 oclock this waggon came up and we resumed our journey following the Spring branch down half a mile we found a large spring of clear water but tasted strong of sulphur We left the Creek to the right and traveling over ascending ground for several miles when the ground became vary rough and the road crooked winding around on narrow ridges often scarsly wide enough for a waggon to stand on at length we came to where the road forked the ridge becoming to narrow to proceed any further on the top we took the right hand but soon found out we ware rong and returning back we took the left hand road which led us down a steep ravine for several hundred feet where it was so steep that it was vary difficult getting down on foot with our packs on and reaching the bottom we heard the frogs peeping a short distance below and thought it safest to stop and not aproach the watering place for fear of Indians being lurking about in search of some person to rob until the moon arose which was not up yet and lay ourselves down under a large projecting rock without kindleing a fire We all slept except a sentinel who kept a close watch After the moon was up we arose and began our march down the creek which ran through a narrow bottom between high rocky mountains which apeared in the moonlight in its wildest grandure. The water seaping and spreading over the bottom made it a wet marsh through which we had to waid for two or three miles where we came to where the water condenced into one channel and the bottoms became sandy and rocky and barren. As we descended the bottoms became wider and together with the hills became perfectly barren of all kinds of vegitation and nothing apeared to the sight but rocks gravel and sand Sun Feb 3 We traveled down this desolate stream about 12 miles and encamped for the day in a tolerable wide desert valley serounded by bare nobs and mountains and I expect the most desolate spot that man ever saw. While we ware resting here there came a fine looking muly ox down from the high land to the Creek to drink I was greatly surprised to know how he had remained in so barren a spot ascaped the Indians whose signs ware visible every where Mr Knowls White & Co butchered the ox thay being out of meat in spite of our arguments against it We wanted to pack him and drive him ahead thinking to find his owner and he would have been of great serves to us in packing our load There was not 20 pounds taken out of him after all We left this place about 4 oclock and traveling through vary deep sand so dry that we lost the road several times from the sand blowing and covering up the track. In about 6 miles we reached a narrow gap in the mountain where we found a spring of salt water and not fit to use This being the last water or grass for 50 miles the men with the waggons stoped here to recruite before going onto the Desert. We reached this place about 8 oclock and seeing a fire some distance off the road we supposed it was an Indian camp We hirried past as fast as posible but next morning found that what we had taken for Indian camp was the camp of some men 4 in number who ware traveling west with one waggon and 14 mules I didnot get much information with regard to their business but mistrust thay ware going to meet some persons as assistance. Traveling on untill about 11 oclock and when we turned off the road a short distance and laid ourselves down and slept until the moon arose which was about 2 oclock than getting up we traveled on through the night and all next day through hot sand over a large Desert Page 57
Tues Feb 5 Having no water to put in our canteens this morning and expecting to have to march 45 miles before getting any we felt quite gloomy. We had left White & Co back at the salt spring and expected thay ware behind us but on walking on this morning about 6 miles we came in sight of a spring of tolerable water tasting a little of salseratus but we ware extreamly thankful to find it here we found White & Co lusurating of the water thay had got better information from the men who ware going east and had passed us in the night and came on to the spring. Here we remained untill about 4 oclock when we became so tired we couldnot proceed any further and having a vary small piece of bread in our knapsacks we eat it and laid ourselves down and slept soundly untill brake of day Our road had been over a tolderable level plain for the distance of about 18 or 20 miles onto an extensive level plain or bototm which we judged to be the valley of the Mohahve [Mojave] or what some now call the Mohobby River Wed Feb 6 We arose at a little after day brake after our short knap and hard nights walk and resuming our march we reached the Mohobby about 10 oclock having traveled sence a little before sunset the evening before 45 miles over the most of the way a vary sandy road This river is a tributary of the Colorado and is here divided into several small streams which run to the eastward there is here quite a large grove of Cottonwood and goodeal of other vegitaion We resumed our march this evening and traveled up the river 13 miles and than lay down untill morning. We followed the river up 69 miles the road being vary sandy and hard traveling. The road crossing the stream a number of times The bottoms are generally timberd with Cottonwood and willows Thurs Feb 7 At one of these crossings we overtook Mr Pomroy and company consisting of about 25 waggons who had left Salt Lake about one week previous to our leaving that place. He also had had a vary hard time loosing about half his stock and having lived on short rations of provisions more than a month He had sent forward to Williamses Rancho and bought beef cattle and we met ten head being driven to his camp after we had left him about 10 miles. We tried to purchase 4 or 5 pounds of flour or corn meal of some of his company but did not succeed and conciquently must have had to fast one or two days hadnot Mr Pumroy kindly gave us a cupple of cakes of bread and two or three pounds of baken ham Fri Feb 8 This evening after a march of about 30 miles and at about 10 oclock P.M. we came to the last crossing of the river and pulling off our stockings and shoes we waided the stream which was about 18 inches deep and six rods wide Sand and gravel bottom and swift current there we found Mr. C.P. Foster one of a company of 12 men who had traveled with us from the states to the Salt Lake Thay had also had hard times and had lost all their Cattle but five out of 16 yoke and had had no provisions but a little Rice and the beef of their given out oxen for along time. All the men but Foster had left the waggons and ware proceding through on foot Thay had with tham men who had passed us at Fort Larimee 18 in number with pack mules who had tried to make a cut off and cross the Cierra Nevada some distance north of the south rout but couldnot succeed and ware to make their way back having left 5 of their company who undertook to proceed over the mountain on foot The balance of tham all got to the road nearly starved after having eaten 11 of their mules The five men who proceded onward among which number was Mr Semane a young man from Missouri who traveled with [?] to Larimee We havenot heard from sence Page 59
Sun Feb 10 We arose early this morning on acount of the cold the nights all this time being so cold that with our scant bedding our limbs whinever we attempted to sleep would becom so stiffened and benumbed that we could scarsly moove for some time getting up We mooved to the mouth of the Canyon a distance of five or six miles where we stoped and eat the balance of our little stock of provision and supposing we had 30 miles to travel to get to Williamses Rancho we proceded on as fast as our wearied and sore limbs allow us to travel but had not went far before we found a paper sticking in a bush that informed us that down the left hand road about 6 or 7 miles was a company of emigrants encamped and an Indian town and Spanish Rancho nearby. We traveled on to the camp where thay gave us some Penola which is corn parched in hot sand by the Indians and than ground into meal and some corn boiled with the hulls on of which we eat hartily. Sence coming out of the canyon the vegitation began to be more green as we proceded and now we began to see large meddows covered with rich green wild oats and Clover to the highth of 5 or 6 inches and I saw several vegitables in bloom We proceded on through the Indian Village which contained some 40 or 50 lodges thay treated us sivelly some of tham going some distance with us to show us the road We proceded on to Logos Ranch where we found a number of Emigrants encamped and through the influence of Mr Robertson who is an American and is in the employ of Logo the Spanish alkalde we ware furnished with beef and wheat ground in a coffee mill without sifting. My principal object in coming ahead of the company was to procure if posible some relief to go back and meet Mr Imus and Rice who ware nearly out of provision and their teams nearly all ded and my first business after getting here was to apply to the Alkalde for the necessary assistance but Mr Robertson informed me horses mules and oxen that ware broke to use ware all engaged to go to the gold mines and it wouldnot be posible to render tham the assistance required Page 60
Tues Feb 12 This morning early I started after my coat I found it safe at the mill and here I learned that the waggons was getting wheat ground to send back to the Co I had left I also heard that there another Spanyard living a short distance below who offered to send provissions as far as Mohobby Wed Feb
13 This morning I learned that there was no chance of getting
any assistance any further toward the Co than to the Mohobby from this
place so hearing that a Vessel would sail from the port near Puablo for
Thurs Feb 14 We traveled today over a dry sandy plane about 20 miles our pack being heavy and the day quite warm we became vary weary and eating such food as we hadnot been accustomed to it gave us pains through our boddies so we could scarsly travel but a little after dark coming to a beautiful little brook runing across the road we gladly stoped for the night. We had pass Cuckoo Mongo Rancho on our right some distance from the road Fri Feb 15 Nothing can be more beautiful to eye the country through which we have journeyed today but my powers of description are to weak to do it justus. The Sierra Nevada on our right at the distance of 7 or 8 miles rises abruptly from the plain with its dark rocky side and its lofty snow peaks gleaming in the sunbeams while on our left about the same distance arose the low coast range with its gently sloping sides covered with a green carpet of grass and dotted quite thickly with the wide spreading branches of the live oak while the Vally between over which our road lay is perfectly level covered with soft green clover and wild oats forming sight unmagenable [unimaginable] We traveled about 18 miles and coming to a fine clear stream a little after dark we laid our blankets on the soft green grass and laid ourselves down for the night Sat Feb 16 On getting up this morning we discovered the white front of the Catholic church of the Mission St Gabriel distent about 5 or 6 miles. At the old mission which is now nearly all in ruins I found several kinds of fruit trees several palm trees and a large vinyard in an impurfect state of cultivation The buildings of this place ware of the usual material of this country dobas [adobe] or large unburned brick The building which formaly covered a space of probely 20 acres of ground in a solid block are all now goen to ruins eccept the Monastery or church and a part of the building fronting on the Great Square which remain nearly entire. The Church exhibits the remains of ancient Grandure and is still is a state of tolerable repair. It is 100 feet in length by 40 in width with ten large pelasters in front in something after the doric order of architect and whitewashed on the outside and can be seen at a great distance The inside contains some fine specimins of workmanship such as image of saints paintings &c On the outside and at the west end there is six arches beautifully formed of masonwork each Containing a bell of different dimentions so as to have once formed a beautiful Chime but only 3 now can be used There are several Mexican families here and anumber of American Emigrants who ware aucupying the old building untill their teams recruited enough to drive to the mines which is about two hundred miles distent and lays in the tulare Valley on Kings River Page 61
Sat Feb 23 Last evening 3 men of our Company that ware ahead of the balance came into town stating that 5 others had just arived Williams Rancho having been sent ahead by the company thay also informed me that Philips hadnot yet started back. On hearing this I amediately had a talk with Dr Earl who said if we couldnot get help out at Williams he would take some spair provisions with him as he entended going back to Salt Spring to examine the Gold diggings and and hireing a mule of him I proceded to Williams Rancho but on reaching there I found that 3 of the Company had started back in company with Phillips taking with tham 5 yoke of oxen that ware furnished tham by Mr Rolen 800 lbs of flour furnished by Mr Williams so I returned to Puabla without seeing tham Fri March 1 This morning I learned that the Brige Col Freemont had just arived in port and was bound for San Franciso and I resolved if possible to take pasage on hir for that place but not having any money I didnot know how to effect it but on seeing Capt Nason the master he kindly agreed to take me and two others Sheperd and Spink on a credit on my obligating myself that he should have his pay as soon as thay could make the money after getting there Sat March 3 This morning we started for San Pedro the ship landing distant 28 miles We found the road wet the most of the way so that we had to waid sometimes knee deep in mud and water. On this plain I saw I donot dout hundreds of thousands of wild geese feeding Page 62
Tues March 5 This afternoon the Capt came down and we went on bord the weather was quite calm and we couldnot set sail I saw several whales spouting near the ship Wed March 6 About 10 oclock this morning the wind breezed up although ahead we wayed anchor and set sail in order to beat up the Coust but made rather slow progress Thurs March 7 Last night we had quite a squall and the Capt being sick and the mait being aquainted with the Coast we came near going ashore but the Capt hearing what was going gave orders to put hir out to sea amediately and this morning we are runing on the labard tack right out to sea at the rate of ten knots The sea is vary rough and myself with nearly all the pasengers are vary sea sick Sun March 10 We contined to run quartering out to sea untill this morning when the wind abated and left us in a calm but the roling of the ship over the dead swell is tremendious. There is several shark about 8 or ten feet long about the ship and by throwing over pieces of meat we drew tham up near the stern and harpooned one and got him nearly on bord when the hold broke and we lost him. About noon the wind breezed up fair & before night we ware sailing at the rate of 11 1/2 knots towards San Francisco Bay Mr Drew the mait took his reckoning this morning and found we ware 225 miles at sea and nearly south of Monte Ray. Tues March 12 This morning we came in sight of the mountains at the Mouth of the harbor and at ten oclock we ware passing through the Golden Gate and at 12 we cast anchor in front of the flurishing City of Sanfrancisco The sight was grand in the extream. The Harbor contains at this time about 500 ships and different kinds of Vessels from almost all Nations on the Earth and probably hundreds that will never leave here again A great many are turned into Hotels Saloons Bourding Houses Store Houses &c The city is built on the south west side of the bay and is sheltered from the sea breezes by a low range of mountains amediately in the rear of it and between it and coust. The City is well laid out but on rather rough ground It is suposed to Contain 5000 houses these have been built in the last 18 months and 60,000 inhabitence The nearest Gold mines is about 130 miles up the Sacrimento River There are 6 or 7 Steamers constantly playing between Sanfrancisco and the mines Fri April 5 This morning I left the City on the Brig Malel Adhel bound for Santa Cruz and Mounte Ray situated on the bay of Mounte Ray and about 90 miles south of Sanfrancisco on the Coust Page 63
And I would state
to my readers if I have any in conclution that if thay wish to emigrant
to California by the over land rout I would advise tham to fit thamselves
out with Horse or mule teams and light Waggons say a light two horse waggon
for four horses or mules well made of good materials in heavy enough
let him take nothing with him but he absalutely has to make use of on this
journey About 100 lbs of Bacon to each person is suffiscient
to last him to Salt Lake where he can always buy Cheaper than he can hall
it there let him take no more Clothing than he wishes to ware
on the road or any article of furnature for he can buy tham all in California
as Cheap and a great deal easier than he can in the states if he has to
work for tham Let him take all the sugar he can without loading
his waggons over 15 hundred or 2000 lbs for thoet articles will always
pay for hauling to the Salt Lake where he can exchange tham for flour or
grain at a good proffit let him take dried fruit and such other
articles for luxury as he thinks proper and if convenient let him take
a few bushels of cornmeal to give his horses an occational bait while passing
the black Hills with this outfit let him be at Council Bluffs
St Joseph or Independence in April if possible and leave that place
as soon as there is grass enough for his team to live and if he should
start sooner and take a little grain along to feed for a few days all the
better When he reaches Salt Lake he can exchange of any horses
or Cattle if necesssary for fresh ones and purchase such other articles
as is necessary for the balance of the journey Let him take
a little grain or meal from here to feed his team occationly while crossing
the Desert if possible If he equires [inquires] at Salt Lake
he will find no difficulty in finding out the best rout the balance
of the [ ? ] and that let him take And being thus aquipt he
can make a pleasant journey of it and git into the upper gould mines about
the middle of August or first of September
Hecox Diary Part 1 -- 2 -- 3 -- 4 -- 5 -- Notes
Home Richberger/Hecox/Ross Introduction
Posted 26 July 1999
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