The Way I Went to California 
By  James Hecox 
(1849-1850) 

Part 4



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Fri  Oct 19   After proceding up the Creek a short distance this morning our road turned square to the right and took up a narrow ravine to the west.  We proceded up this ravine about 4 miles when we arived at the summit of the mountain.  We here had an extensive and beautiful view of the snowy peaks around us and also of the southern part of the Valley of the Great Salt Lake  The descent on the west side of this ridge is vary steep long and tedious on account of stumps and muddy pitch holes in the road  We traveled about six miles and camped for the night on Brown Creek in grove of Fur trees and turned our Cattle on the mountains for fead

Sat Oct 20   Our road lay down the valley of Browns Creek about 4 or five miles  We than turned to the right and ascended another high ridge and descended on the west side by a tolerable steep descent we struck Last Creek  We descended it about 3 miles and encamped for the night turning our stock up a mountain ravine to the left where we found good grass

Sun  Oct 21   We proceded down the Creek the morning about two miles where it bursts through the high mountain gorges and suddenly appears in the shape of clear pure brook Gliding placidly across the Valley of the Great Salt Lake  As we arose on the summit of a small ridge at the mouth of the hollow the Valley Lake and City suddenly bursts upon the view making a beautiful and pleasant sight  The Valley is some thirty five or forty miles long from north to south and about twenty or twenty five miles wide  The City is located about two or three miles from the base of the mountain which encloses the east side of the Valley and about 5 miles from where we first entered the Valley  and about 3 miles from the Utah outlet   The City Plat contains four or five sections of land  The streets are braud and at right angles with each other   The City and Valley Contains about 10 or 12,000 enhabitence   The soil is a dark sand and gravel and produces good wheat  oats and Potatoes but the seasons are to short to raise much corn   The land has to be watered in order to make it produce any crops which is easily done from several streams that run through the City and Valley from the mountain gorges.  The Valley is entirly destitute of timber and none in the vacinity except in the mountain gorges and that of a vary inferior quality consisting of Balsom of Fir and small Quaking Aspens   The Valley is bounded about twenty two miles west of the City by the Salt Lake a beautiful sheet of water serounding several large Islands which are principally mountains of rock   The water in the Lake contains about one gallon of common salt to every two gallons of water   The Lat of the City is 40o 45’ 44”  Long 111o 26’ 34”   Altitude 4,300 feet

Mon  Oct 22   We had hire our animels pastured last nigh in a large field and paid 10 cts pr head.  About 1 oclock we left the City and mooved to Cotton Wood Creek 12 miles up the Valley towards Utah but finding the fead not vary good we left that place and mooved six miles further up and encamped on dry Creek where we found vary good grass and concluded to remain untill we could burn coal and make shoes for our oxen as thay all have to be shoed in traviling the southern rout

Tues  Oct 30   This morning some 3 or 4 of us started for Utah Lake a distance of 35 or 40 miles on foot and taking a small sack of provisions on our backs we steered a southwest direction across the valley untill we struck the road near the Utah or Jourdan River as the Mormans call it   We followed the road leading up the Utah river   W passed some hot springs near the road but I did not examine tham as I was in hast and knew I should pass that way again in a few days   After proceding some 3 or 4 miles further we ascended and passed over a high bench or spur of the mountain that extends but towards the river where we had a splendid view of the Utah Lake and Valley   About dark we struck American Creek where we found the encampment of a company of Topographical Engineers Commanded by Lieutenant  [?] who are making a geographicle survey of the Salt and Utah Lakes and Valleys   We ware received vary kindly by the Lieu who offered us a tent  beding  provisions for the night.  We gladly accepted his offered hospitality  Wed  Oct 31   We bid adieu to the kind Lieu and his company and proceded about 12 miles to the Utah Fort which is situated on the south side of Provoe Creek a beautiful mountain stream about four rods wide and 1 1/2 feet deep clear water swift current and rocky bottom   The inhabitance about 100 in number all Mormans all live in the Fort on account of the Indians being troublesom   The Fort is built in the form of an oblong square and serounded by low log houses and high piquets with a large platform about 12 feet high in the centre to support a small cannon which is mounted upon the top of it in order to keep the Indians in awe.  The Utah Lake is a beautiful sheet of fresh water about 30 miles long and 15 or 20 wide with a furtile Valley about 30 mile long and 5 or 6 miles wide on the north and east side

Thurs  Nov 1   We left Mr Huntingtons at 7 oclock this morning and taking an Indian trail that led over the mountain in a nearer direction   It had rained considerable during in the Valley but had snowed on the neighboring mountains and continued to snow on tham all the fornoon today while it was plesent weather in the Valley.  We traveled about 12 miles over the level valley when we struck the foot of the mountain   as soon as we had ascended about half a mile it commenced raining but it fell in snow on the peaks on eather side of us and as soon as we descended to the plains it ceased to rain   We got into camp about dark vary wet and weary after having traveled what we supposed to be 30 or 35 miles over a high and slippry mountain

Fri  Nov 2   This morning the ground near the foot of the mountain was covered with snow but was gone in an hour or two   The Vally is covered with green grass and flowers in bloom while the mountains are covered with snow some places several feet deep

Fri  Nov 9   This afternoon we remooved our camp down the Creek about 5 miles near the bank of Utah river so as to be on the road where Emigrants that ware below had to pass   Here we remained untill Monday in order to purchase some corn meal and other surplies for our journey   Our rout lay to the south west by Utah Lake

Mon  12   This morning we once more resumed our line of march expecting to find number of teams at American Creek in the Utah Valley where we designed organizing our company   We passed the warm and hot springs about noon   One of these springs is nearly boiling hot while two or three others are but a little more than milk warm   Towards evening we crossed a high bench or spur of the mountain and encamped on the bank of the Jordan for the night after traviling 14 miles and in coming down the hill one of our waggons was upset and some damage done but principally all to the cover

Tues  Nov 13   We righted up our waggon that was upset last night and proceded up the Vally of the Utah 10 miles to the American Creek where we found a number of waggons but the most of tham had mooved beyond the Fort which is about 12 miles further

Wed  Nov 14   We traveled twelve miles and encamped for the night on the bank of Provoe Creek within a few rods of the Fort here   We found a number more teams waiting for for more company and also for a guide that knew the rout

Thurs  Nov 15   We all mooved eight miles to Hobble Creek where we intended to organize but soon after camping we found that thay ware nearly all Mormans accept some horse teams and thay had gone into an organization among thamselves without letting us know anything of it

Fri  Nov 16   The wether is stormy this morning and we donot travel today.  I found here two of my nephews Martin and Cyrus Shellhouse who had left Michigan last March and had sold their ox teams in the Vally and purchased pack mules and together with 17 others had proceded about 200 miles west where thay ware atacked by the Indians and two of their company killed and two wounded and all of their animels taken away from tham  thay killed four of the Indians and wounded some more but being so largely out numbered thay fled and made their excape back to the Vally   Thay had fited thamselves out with more horses and mules and some light waggons and ware now prosicuting their journey by the south rout.  We spent together a few pleasant hours but their teams traviling faster than ours thay left us the next morning.  Having no way of masuring distances Mr Church and myself here constructed a temporary Roadomoter for the purpes of masuring the distances as we traveled  we had nether of us ever seen one but we soon had one in operation that answered an excellent purpes

Sun  Nov 18   Our company all left yesterday morning but nine waggons and this morning we left our encampment and traviling over a level valley of rich land 12 1/2 miles we camped for the night on Silver Creek where we found several lodges of Utahs and among tham one squaw and her two children who ware nearly white. [Note: Correct spelling is Ute. At website see "Another Map" link for distribution map including southern Utah and Nevada, site of these diary entries.] Thay came to our camp exhibiting great friendship and we gave tham food but after thay had left we discovered thay had stolen several small articles  a small brass kettle  and ax &c   We got word from the Fort today that there ware several teams there who wished us to wait until thay came up and joined our company and among the rest was a spangard [Spaniard] whom they call Peublow who is acquainted with the rout and who we expected would guide us through

Mon  Nov 19   Today the Indians have shot some of the Cattle belonging to the United States Engineers who war eencamped a short distance from us with arrows but I did not learn whether thay killed tham or not but the Indians soon left.  Our guide and several other teams came up about 3 oclock this afternoon

Tues Nov 20   It had rained during the night and the wind blew vary hard from the southwest and this morning the mountains ware covered with snow down to their base.  On examining our stock this morning a fat ox that Mr Imus had just at the fort and was driving for beef was missing   We amediately mistrusted that the Indians had driven him off and on making search Mr Imus saw some Indians driving what he supposed to be the ox about two or three miles towards the mountains and coming back to the camp about ten or twelve men well armed and some of tham mounted on horseback started in pesuit but on traveling half a mile over a small rise thay met the ox runing with all speed towards the camp and an Indian close behind whom we supposed had been watching him untill we had left when thay intended to have killed him but he had broken away from tham and was making his way into camp.  We organized our company this evening by electing Mr Fly Captain  Judge Owen assistant Capt  and Mr. H.A. Imus Council

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Wed Nov 21   This morning was Cloudy and had the apearence of being stormy but we left our encampment quite early traveling southwest up the Valley   We crossed spring Branch and rising Graduelly about noon we arived at Timber Creek   Our guide here enformed us that we shouldn’t find any more wood for 14 or 15 miles so we encamped for the night having traveled 7 1/4 miles   The Valley here apears to be about 12 or 15 miles wide   Our road lay near the base of the mountain that rises on the east side of the Valley and near the centre of the Valley and runing parrilel with it is a low range of hills and west of tham and between tham and the western mountain there seams to be several small Lake or ponds

Thurs   Nov 22   Our road today lay up the Valley still which here apears to be about 7 or 8 miles wide and sloping gradually down from the base of eather mountain to near the centre where runs a small clear stream.  The soil is a rich dark sand and gravel.  The land on eather side of the stream is gently undilating with here and there a beautiful little brook rattleing down from the mountains and all together presenting a pleasant apearence.  The ground is covered with a groath of rich grass which although now nearly dry animels are vary fond of and which apears to contain a great deal of nutriment.  We passed several curious springs today on our road.  These Springs are generally holes about 4 or four feet across ground hard all around tham but having no bottom for several feet down   two or three of our Cattle fell into tham and we had to draw tham out by main force with roaps   We traveled 12 miles and camped for the night on Willow Creek where we had no wood but small willows and the evening being quite cold made it very disagreeable

Fri  Nov 23   This morning was vary cold the wind blowing hard from the north  A messenger from Mr Egans Company of eight waggons who are about 20 miles in our rear came up to our camp last night requesting us to wait untill thay came up with us so we concluded to travel on to Mud Creek  8 miles where we expected to find better wood but ware disapointed for on gitting there we found nothing but willows again but some larger than thay ware the night before   The wind still blows hard and it is vary disagreeable

Sat  Nove 24   Our road still lay up the Valley and rising by a gradual ascent for several miles without passing any water we at length Crossed the summit and began to descend to the waters of the Severe [Sevier] River and after traveling 18 miles we came where the Creek passed between two hills where we encamped for the night near the ford of the Creek which is a clear swift stream 4 ft wide

Sun  Nov 25   We laid by today in order to let the train that was behind to come up   The weather is cold and some snow 

Mon  Nov 26   The train that we expected would overtake us did not come up last night so we left a note for tham and proceded on over somewhat broken ground ten miles to the Nickolet or Severe River after Crossing which we encamped for the night   Soon after starting this morning the train in our rear hove in sight about 3 or 4 miles behind us   We found but little fead for our animels this evening and to go some distance to the hills for ceder to burn

Tues Nov 27   The company was put to some trouble last night and this morning with regard to one of its members who without provocation turned off his hired man without any means of support   The company had to investigate the matter and set tham to rights which detained us untill ten oclock.  The company that ware behind us came up this evening consisting of seven waggons and 10 men increasing our number of waggons to 25 and our number of persons to about 100 old and young    We passed over a tolerable high ridge between the mountains after which we came into a vally again up which we traveled nine miles where we encamped for the night about a mile to the left of the road near the foot of the mountain where we found a small brook of tolerable water running from the mountain but did not run but a short distance before it sinks in the earth

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Wed Nov 28   It rained in the fore part of last night but turned to snow and fell about 3 inches but the weather was modelate this morning   We ascended a graduel hill this morning about 3 or 4 miles to the summet after which we descended into a large and beautiful Vally through the east side of which our road lay while far to the west the Vally spread itself out like a meddow nearly as far as the eye could reach and near the centre and at the distance of abut 20 miles from the road is a considerable Lake  This Lake we supposed to be Nickolet Lake   Above the surfice of which and some distance from the eastern side there arose a soletary mound or hill to the highth of 3 or 400 feet loooking like a sentinal guarding its soletary waters   After traveling some distance into the Vally we came to a small spring brook where we camped for the night after having traveled 13 1/4 miles.

Thurs  Nov 29   This morning was clear and quite cold the thurmometer standing at 18 above zero and there is some snow around our camp but not more than a mile west in the Valley and apparently on nearly as high ground as we are there is none and has not been any   Our road today has been over a tolerable level Valley near the foot of Plum Creek a small clear stream   The Fir timber on the mountains and hills has given place to Ceder which grows in great abundence on the hills and mountains and even considerable groves in the Vallies   We encamped for the night on Rock Creek

Fri Nov 30   Our course today as usual lay nearly south the snow groing deeper as we advanced although the weather is clear and pleasant untill this evening it is abut 4 or 5 inches deep   We crossed a small stream at about 12 oclock  but no timber on it eccept some willows.  An Indian came up with our train this afternoon tolerable well mounted and waring white mens aparel   he informed us that he lived some distance west and was traveling south to some place over the mountains. 

We traveled 12 1/4 miles and camped for the night on a kind of slough Creek where we had no fuel but willows

Sat Dec 1   We had taken a left hand road and ware following a Mexican whom thay call Puebla who had wished to hire to guide us through but from the best information we could get he did not know the rout any better then ourselves so we would not employ him   he was ahead of us today and after traveling about 6 miles on the left hand road we all turned square to the right steering direcly for the other road and after traveling 9 3/4 miles we came to small grove of Ceder where we encamped for the night having no water eccept what we caried and vary little grass

Sun  Dec 2   We took our course nearly west this morning and traveling about 4 miles we struck the road that we had left on our right two days before and following about 5 miles we left the vally and ascended a hill between two black rocky knobs that had evidently been thrown up by Volcanic eruptions   The discent on the south side being tolerable steep and rocky   We traveled down a ravine some 3 or 4 miles where it opened out into a small vally covered with low sage and serounded by low mountains tolerable thickly timbered with ceder where we encamped for the night without water again  we found some grass on the side of the mountain to the right.  About an inch of snow fell during the night making it about 5 inches on the ground

Mun  Dec 3   We traveled down the ravine this morning about a mile having a wall of black rock on our right hand than turning eastward entered a thick grove of Ceders that continued about 2 miles with many steep ravines and rocky places   Our course through the day has been nearly east toward the principal wahsatch  [mountains] [Note: the diary does not specifically mention Cache Valley,  but the photo--taken in 1895--seems representative of this area of the Wahsatch Mountains and of a wagon company's camp.] About 10 oclock two of our men Mr Imus and sons who ware sent ahead to hunt water came riding back full speed with 4 Indians in hot persuit well mounted and armed with rifles and bows and arrows but on meeting another of our Company thay made a stand untill the Indians came up.  Thay prove to be a party of Utahs who ware camped up a Creek in the side of the mountain and seeing our fires the night before had come out to meet us and ware vary friendly.  We proceded on untill we reached the foot of the mountain where we found a small brook and encamped for the night just below the Indian Lodges having traveled 11 miles. 

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Emigant’s Guide entries

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Tues  Dec 4   Our animels having had no water for a day or two except what little we melted for tham from snow we thought best to lay over here one day and let tham recruit.  The Indians whos lodges ware Close by had a good surply of dressed deer skins and our people surplied thamselves with all thay wanted by giving in exchange a little powder lead gun caps &c

Wed  Dec 5   We sent men ahead yesterday to examine the road who returned informing us that thay had been ten or twelve miles on ahead and ascended to the summit of the next ridge and gave it as their opinion that we had better encamp at the next Creek five miles which we done finding good grass water and wood but the weather is dark and snow is falling the most of the time

Thur  Dec 6   This morning one of our oxen was missing and could not be found untill 12 oclock or after when it was to late to start and make another camping ground so we remained here till next morning   it continued to snow some nearly all day

Fri  Dec 7   This morning we commenced ascending the Pass of the [?] which in one place was tolerable steep and the snow making it vary slipery for Cattle to travel  after reaching the summit the descent was long and some places steep sideling and difficult  The snow on the summit was 8 or 9 inches deep but as we decended it gradually became shallower untill in the Vally where we encamped for the night it was no more than in inch and a half deep but just at the time we piched our camp it commenced blowing and snowing vary hard wich lasted nearly all night which made it extreamly tedious and in the morning the snow had fell to the depth of 3 or 4 inches   The Valley we have traveled through for the last 2 or 3 days was considerable higher than the one we are now descending into which accounts for the snow being much deeper

Sat Dec 8  The Valley as we proceded opened out wide and proceded five miles we Crossed a deep ravine after crossing it Vally seamed to rise higher and aforded no vegitaiton eccept sage   After traveling 7 1/2 miles we encamped for the night on Sage Creek where we found vary poor fead for our stock with a few cottonwoods and sage for fuel   The weather is vary cold but not so much snow as we found back

Sun  Dec 9   This morning a Laidy of our company Mrs Rice was delivered of a fine son and consiquently we ware obliged to stay here through the day the weather is vary cold but clear and wind north

Mon Dec 10   This morning is clear and vary cold  the Thurmometer at 24o below zero at 6 oclock  We travelled through fine Valley about 5 miles when we came to another small Stream with steep banks and some willow and in 3/4 of a mile further we came to Beaver Creek where we encamped for the night  this with several smaller spring brooks waters this pleasant little valley   This day has been quite pleasant and the snow in this valley is not more than an inch and a half deep there being none before the last little snow and we have great hopes of getting where there is none in a day or two   Our Company were joined the day before yesterday at 4 oclock A.M. by two ox waggons and one two horse Carriage with two families and 7 or 8 men who had left Michigan on the forth of July and getting into the Valley about a week after we had left   thay had driven night and day to overtake us

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Tues  Dec 11   There is a tall mountain before us at the distance of 7 miles   We left our place of encampment early and Stearing our course toward a low place   We traveled over rough road through a thick grove of Ceder and up and down some vary steep hills and encamped for then ight in a deep ravine where we found no water and not having reached the summit by about two miles the snow here was 6 or 8 inches deep but the weather clear and wind south and thawing some

Wed  Dec 12   We proceded over the summit of the pass today and found one vary hard hill to clime where we had to double teams and one vary steep and long hill to descend after which we traveled down the Valley and in one place passed through a narrow canion between the hills and proceding down theValley a mile or two we encamped for the night near where it opened out into a large valley in the middle of which there is a small Lake wich we supposed to be the little Salt Lake   Mr Frealds and myself ascended a high peak to the right of the road this afternoon and had a fine view of the Lake and valley which opened out to a great distance in front of us laying to the south west   The mountain on which we stood was composed of a mass of black Volcanic rock of open & porous nature and resembling the Slag from a lead Furnice or the Cinders from a black smiths forge and the surface was thickly covered with Ceder and Balsom pine

Thurs  Dec 13   We traveled today over a large wide Valley stearing in a southerly direction  the surface being covered with sage which served to shelter thousands of Hares of which we killed quite a number.  This morning I discovered a new specius of Cacti growing on the ridges.  It grew to the highth of 1 foot with a round stem and many branches and having a longish ball on top which contained the seeds  We have camped two nights without water but this evening turnng to the left towards the mountain we found a stream Red Creek coming from a ravine and vary good grass and we had taken the precaution to carry wood with us   We camped for the night here after having traveled 14 1/4 miles  [Note: Several diaries and other accounts of this trail mention the large number of hares in this region.]

Fri  Dec14   Our road lay long the foot of the mountain today runing southwest and we found the snow about 5 or 6 inches deep which made it hard travling   after proceding 4 1/2 miles we came to a Red Earth Creek which we crossed on the ice after having thrown dirt over it to keep the animels from sliping   We proceded on to another Creek with willows and some cottonwood where we camped for the night having a tremendious wind from the south and some snow

Sat  Dec 15   We lay by today and buchered a beef cow and one of the company Mr Birdsill brake up one of his waggons and one mahogeny beauro and some other articles of furniture in order to lighten his load

Sun  Dec 16   We proceded on this morning but did not get started untill noon and ascended a kind of divide where the ground was tolerable broken   we had a view of the next valley which we soon entered and traveling 3 miles we encamped among sage without water or much Grass   There was to all apearence a considerable stream not far ahead of us from the line of Cottonwoods and willows that streched across the Valley but our road here making an angle to the south would lead us several miles before reaching the Creek

Mon  Dec 17   It is snowing in the serounding mountains this morning and looks vary likely for rain or snow in the Valley.   We have been traveling nearly west for several days but our road here turns south towards a large gap in the mountain through which the next stream seems to run.  Our men killed a large number of hares among the artimentia today   thay are excellent eating being vary fat   Our way lay a little east of south and nearly parrilel with the line of Cottonwood along the stream on the ice which was near a hundred yeards wide from the water having flowed over the banks and frozen into ice   The stream here runs in a direction nearly north through a large Valley and emties itself into a Lake some distance to the north west   This day is some Cloudy   wind hard from the south but thaws quite fast

Tues  Dec 18   Our road lay nearly a west direction this morning towards a low gap to the left of some fragments of low rocky mountains and for some distance the ground over which we traveled apeared to be low and some what in a wet time.  After proceding 7 miles we entered the gap and encamped for the night near some springs one of which is about blood heat while the other is cold   We passed through large fields of sage this afternoon where our men killed over fifty hares

Wed  Dec 19   Our course today nearly west over a high sage plain where there was not a speer of Grass to be seen.   To the right of our road lay a vary large and beautiful looking Valley serounded on all side but at a great distance by lofty ranges of mountains   We proceded over this valley 12 3/4 miles and encamped for the night among sage where we had neather water or wood except sage and scarsly any grass   this was vary hard for our poor and weak animels who have had nothing to eat only what thay could pick above the snow for nearly two hundred miles and a great many days and nights without water

Thurs  Dec 20   We concluded this morning to travel on untill we found a spot of Grass and there lay by the balance of the day which we found at the distance of about 3 miles   About 1 mile after starting we found a spring where we watered our teams.  We are traveling along the base of a low range of mountains which lays south of us which we supposed to be the southern rim of the Great Basin   Three Indians came into our camp this morning who called thamselves Utahs   thay had no weapons except bows and arrows except one pocket pistle

Fri Dec 21   We started tolerable early this morning but the snow was slipery and our cattle weak and unshoed and we mooved quite slow   We still continued along near the base of the Wahsatch mountains which here forms the southeastern rim of the basin.  There is a soletary but[te] or low hill laying to the right at about 6 or 8 miles distant in the low part of the valley   The snow is fast disapearing in the valley and on the south sides of the mountains   We traveled nine miles and a half and encamped for the night on a small stream that came down from a low place in the mountains forming a deep ravine and having a few willows along its margin and as our animels had several of tham given out on account of not being shoed we concluded to stop here and burn coal put up a blacksmiths forge and shoe tham

Sat Dec 22   We mooved our camp up nearer the foot of the mountains this morning on account of being more convenient to wood and commenced operations by putting up a coalpit and erecting a frame for shoeing oxen  twenty men ware detailed for this serves while the balance ware on guard halling wood &c   the most of the company had nearly enough of shoes on hand to shoe their teams

Sun  Dec 23   Our blacksmiths three in number commenced putting on shoes this day and by night had shoed 13 oxen and prepared shoes and nails for several others

Mon  Dec 24   Some of our men who ware out hunting today found that by following the stream up through the canyon which it forms in the mountain there was a small valley that contained exelent grass and water   We therefore determined to remove our stock to it next day.   The grass here was green to the highth of 5 or 6 inches   Capt Fly butchered a large beef this morning and the most of our Cooks men and women commenced preparing a Christmiss pie

Tues  Dec 25   Christmiss   This morning we remooved our Cattle through the mountain which aucopied nearly all day the distance being 3 or 4 miles and on returning to camp we found a Christmiss dinner prepared for us consisting short cake  fresh beef  ginger tea well sweetened and a large piece of mints pie   Ye Gods what a luxury

Mun  Jan 7 1850   There has not been anything passed sence Christmiss worth noting except the regular roteen of shoeing oxen   standing guard &c untill the day before yesterday when towards evening we discovered a mule Company coming in to camp from the west   Our men thinking tham to be a company from California thay fired tham a selute but on their coming up to us we found tham to be a company of Mormans who had been exploring the country as far west as the Rio Virgin district about 70 or 80 miles   Our people bought some flour of tham paying the moderate price of 20 dollars per hundred   Our smiths are finishing our last Cattle and we design leaving this long encampment tomorrow morning.  By taking the altitude of the polar star last evening I found the Lattutude of this Camp to be 37o 33’ north

Tues  Jan 8th 1850   On examining our stock last evening three Cattle ware missing and on close examination their tracks ware found leading up a steep ravine of the mountain and Mockasin track in company with tham and suposing an Indian had driven tham off this morning some eight or ten men volunteered to follow tham into the mountains but just as thay ware about starting the cattle ware found with the exception of one cow and this one we afterwards discovered the Indians had got

Wed  Jan 9   This morning we ware troubled to get our stock togther and at 11 oclock we once more commenced our journey and traveling some 6 miles over a tolerable level dry road than coming into a somewhat hilly country we found some hard hills where we had to double teams.  We traveled 11 miles and encamped for the nigh in a fine mountain meddow at the summit of the rim of the basin   This little medow is serounded by mountains and is covered with rich grass and watered by fine springs and a beautiful brook.  We here found considerable snow but the day was pleasant the wind south and the snow melting fast

Thurs  Jan 10  This morning we left camp early and passing the Divide or southern rim of the Great Basin we found the road quite hilly and the snow deep making the traveling vary hard and after traveling 8 1/2 miles we camped for the night on a small brook that was formed by the melting snow from the serounding mountains

Fri  Jan 11   Our road today lay down a ravine to the south west from the divide and discended quite fast so that from leaving a camp this morning among the snows of winter and encamped this evening after traveling 8 miles in the usual climit of April or first of May the Thurmometer standing at 55o at sunsit   Our road has been rough and hilly   I saw this afternoon Grapevines and Black Locus groing on the Creek bottoms  the first I have noticed sence leaving the lower Platte Creek country   I also noticed new shrubs that I havenot seen before   Several of tham evergreen groing among the Ceder and nut Pine which grows vary thick on the sides of the mountains

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Emgrants’ Guide entries

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Sat  Jan 12   Last night some of our men made rather to free a use of Liquor espessially the guard thay having had vary little reason here to fore of being afraid of Indians but the result was that when we came to examine our stock this morning we found one ox had been shot five or six times and three arrows remained sticking in him and some of our mules and horses had strayed back several miles and in a few moments after having sent out a party of men in search of the mules the Captain Cried out in great hast to arms  to arms  the Indians are chasing in our men and in less than a minute every man & boy was armed to the teeth and advancing towards the enemy but as it happened it prooved to be only two Indians who came near the Camp and ware shot at by several of our men but I think ware not injured   We found our mules and proseded on about 4 1/2 miles over a bad road and Crossing the stream a number of time we encamped for the night under some large cottonwoods on the bank of the Santa Clary which is here about 10 feet wide and 1 foot deep runing through a narrow bottom and between high mountains with a swift current   The Country sence leaving the Great Basin is intirly barran of Grass except occasionly a small spot the vegitation Consisting of Ceder and nut pine on the hills and Cottonwood on the stream

Sun  Jan 13   Our road stil lay [?] the stream Crossing it several times and passing among Cottonwood ash willow and several kinds of timber but no grass.  Our road left the Stream for a short distance taking over the hills and on coming to it again we had to descend a vary steep hill where we had to chain all the wheels of our waggons and after traveling some two or three miles at a Crossing of the Creek where the mountains came near to it on the right hand some of our Company found that the rock in the bank was some part of it composed of salt mixed with red sand   We traveled 6 1/2 miles and encamped on the Creek where we found a little bunch grass but not half as much as thay could eat.  On a small ridge a short distance to left of our Camp we found a large number of pieces of earthen ware scattered all over the hills some of it white and flowered with blue and almost equal to china ware.  It has snowed nearly all day today but has melted nearly as fast as it has fell leaving only about two inches [Note: this broken earthenware is mentioned in at least one other diary written the same year.]

Mon Jan 14   We traveled down the stream some distance today when we left it to our left hand and ascended the hills which are composed of red sand stone and sand  Mr Church & myself found an Indian Katch in hole in the rock in side of the mountain where thay had stored several bushels of fine seeds that grow on a weed nearly like common mustard  We traveled 8 miles and camped near the right hand mountain where we found a little short grass but no water the snow being about 4 inches deep.  Three Indians came into our train this afternoon and are with us this evening   we entend keeping tham through the night as hostages for the good behavior of the balance   we have left five or six Calttle today that tired out and several more who are vary weak

Tues  Jan 15   It has snowed nearly all day  wind west but not vary Cold  We concluded to lay by and let our teams rest overhall our waggons and leave some of tham  We done so and left two waggons and a large lot of other property such as boxes chests ironware &c   It has stoped snowing and looks likely to clear up this evening   The mountain cienery at this point is beautiful rising on all side in lofty and rocky peaks

Wed Jan 16   We graduely ascended the pass in the Pah Utah mountain.  The Pass is vary narrow but a graduel ascend and excellent road   The snow on the summit was about 9 or 10 inches deep but on passing the summit the snow began to disappear and after descending 3 1/2 miles down a ravine towards the Valley the Ground was entirly bare   We encamped near mouth of the ravine   here I noticed several new plants one or two new kind of Cacti   one kind growing nearly in the shape of common pumpkins with thorns on tham about  2 inches long   I have sence examined one of tham which masured four feet 7 inches high and 16 inches in diameter and rising in a solid colum with a round or conicle shaped top.  An other plant that the Mexicans call Muskal this plant rises in a stem sometimes 1 foot in diameter and often to the highth ten or twelve feet with several branches with a green tuft on the extremity of each the leaf resembleing that of pine with the exception that it is 4 or 5 inches long and half an inch in width



An account of this incident is given in St. Joseph in Homespun-Index Page--Chapter 11
CHAPTER XI THE FORTY NINERS PAGE 134 
http://members.tripod.com/~tfred/chap11.html

CHAPTER XI THE FORTY-NINERS

A letter from John Sturgis of July 26, 1849: "We have crossed the long and dangerous California Desert, which is strewed with dead and dying horses, oxen and mules. We have had the good fortune to get safely through with our teams and loads but it was a hard task; it was only by the skin of our teeth. "Out of twenty-one wagons in out train, Mr. Raymond's and our own were the only one that reached the river. Mr. Raymond's company exchanged their heavy wagon at Fort Laramie for a lighter one and were obliged to put all their team to one wagon, throwing away everything that they could

PAGE 135
spare. There are about 150 wagons just ahead of us. We passed fifty by the wayside in the desert. They were obliged to unhitch and drive the animals through loose. For forty-five miles we didn't find a spear of grass nor drop of water, and sixty miles before we came to the desert, very little grass and the very worst of water. The next 200 miles will be worse for those who follow for there are from 6,000 to 10,000 teams behind us.

"The dead animals along the way are skinned by a miserable thievish tribe of Indians called "Root Diggers" .. all along the dry sands we could see the snow on the mountains. We are now fifty-five miles from Fort Hall and 2,350 from home. Tell my friends not to come this way.

"We were fool-hardy for ever attempting the land route. The plain was literally crowded with dead animals, tents, wagons, feather-beds and valuable clothing. It is the south, or Mormon road. Miller, Heverland and Schellhouse brothers are with us.

"The Mormons say there is more gold on the San Joaquin than Sacramento...

A few days ago Mr. Taft, brother of Moses Taft of Nottawa, gave us a party. It commenced with prayer, that was followed by music, dancing and other amusements. Women, the Mormons claim, are a necessary evil. Mr. Young, one of the "Twelve", has thirteen wives. They are a bad lot."

Mr. Bishop later discribes a skirmish with the Indians who ambushed their party, two of whom were killed, two wounded. "One of those killed was Johathan Turner from Colon. Jackson and Martin Schellhouse used Johnson's rifle by turns. William Foreman was in the fray. The Indians practically stripped them of their outfit. Seth Taft, Salter and James Brooks returned to join the Mormons. After the skirmish, I found my leg rather painful and got Jackson to cut it open with his knife to find the bullet. He couldn't seem to go deep enough.

"The Mormons overtook us and urged us to return, saying they would re-outfit us; but after we returned the hypocritical cusses never gave a dime. Three weeks from today we start again for El Dorado."

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Posted 19 July 1999
Updated 26 July 1999