ENTRY |
Time Hrs |
Mat $ |
Tool $ |
|
| 7/04 - 17/98 | Ordered the North Bay kit from Chesapeake Light Craft. CLC threw in spare rear deck beam and 4mm plywood scrapes for VCP hatches. | 4 |
800 |
0 |
| Read The Kayak Shop. | 6 |
0 |
15 |
|
| Downloaded and read Steve and Shyerl’s Kayak Building WebPages. | 4 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Bought (25) 2 inch spring clamps | 8 |
0 |
12 |
|
| Bought (5) 1 inch, (5) 2 inch, (5) 4 inch foam brushes | 0 |
6 |
||
| Bought (1) ¼ sheet finishing sander | 0 |
60 |
||
| Bought sheet sand paper 60 grit, 100 grit, 150 grit, 220 grit, | 0 |
20 |
||
| Bought (1) respirator | 0 |
40 |
||
| Bought plastic scrapers | 0 |
2 |
||
| Bought (1) angle finder | 0 |
4 |
||
| Bought (1) roller | 0 |
10 |
||
| Bought (1) roller pan | 0 |
4 |
||
| Bought (3) plastic buckets | 0 |
2 |
||
| Bought (1) flexible pull saw | 0 |
12 |
||
| Bought chalk line, string | 0 |
5 |
||
| Bought plywood (2) 2 ft X 8 ft X 1/2 inch (1) 2 ft X 4 ft X1/2 inch | 0 |
25 |
||
| Bought masking tape | 0 |
3 |
||
| Bought sheet plastic | 0 |
10 |
||
| Bought (1) 25 ft tape measure | 0 |
10 |
||
| Bought (4) 1/16 in drill bits | 0 |
6 |
||
| Bought (4) saw horses | 0 |
80 |
||
| Bought 35 mm film | 0 |
11 |
||
| Bought (2) VCP hatch kits | 90 |
0 |
||
0 |
0 |
0 |
||
| 7/18-24/98 | Received the North Bay kit from Chesapeake Light Craft | 0 |
0 |
0 |
| Read and reread the kit manuals. Reviewed plans. | 6 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Cleaned out workshop and prepared a working area for building the North Bay. Had to cut my workbench out in the center. Have 19 ft space for 18 ½ ft kayak. | 12 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Made a 19 ft X 24 inch work surface out of four saw horses and 1/2 inch plywood. | 4 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Aligned side panel scarfs using string and dimensions on plans. | 6 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Gathered several epoxy measuring containers, cat food, pill, etc. | 0 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Jay Babina informed me of Nick’s Kayak Building WebPages, got on and found the bulletin board to be very useful. | 2 |
0 |
0 |
|
0 |
0 |
0 |
||
| 7/25-31/98 | Glued first side panel scarf's together with unthickened epoxy. Came out 1/4 inch short according to plan drawing. CLC says OK, and it doesn’t matter. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
| Using first side panel as a reference, glued second side panel scarf's with unthickened epoxy. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Bought (1) 5 inch random orbital sander. | 0 |
0 |
60 |
|
| Bought Hook & Loop sandpaper 60 grit, 100 grit, 150 grit, | 0 |
0 |
30 |
|
| Sanded off excess epoxy on panel scarfs with random orbital sander using 150 grit paper. Sanded off too much wood, may have to fill joints later. Used staples to hold panels in place while gluing. | 1 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Epoxied hull panel scarfs together with unthickened epoxy. Scraped off excess epoxy with a chisel to avoid sanding off to much material. | 6 |
0 |
0 |
|
0 |
0 |
0 |
||
| 8/01-07/98 | Epoxied first shear clamp scarfs together with unthickened epoxy. Three joints failed to hold. Re-glued failed joints with All Craft epoxy. | 6 |
0 |
0 |
| Laid out bottom panels for gluing. | 1 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Bought (1) Saber saw and (5) woodcutting blades. | 0 |
0 |
50 |
|
| Surfed kayak building webs on Internet | 3 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Prepared to glue shear clamps to side panels. Need info on length and beveling at ends. CLC said OK to have shear clamps extend to bow and stern or cut short 5 inch at bow and 4 inch at stern. It may be best to cut them and/or bevel them when joining the sides. | 2 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Using thickened epoxy glued deck bow scarf and filled staple holes on one side panel. | 1 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Bought (20) 2 inch spring clamps. | 0 |
0 |
40 |
|
| Bought (10) 1 inch and (10) 3 inch foam brushes. | 0 |
0 |
8 |
|
| Glued shear clamps to side panels. Did one panel at a time. Used (40) 2 inch spring clamps at 6 inch intervals. Glued shear clamps to entire length of side panel. Plan to bevel shear clamps to both bow and stern. Drew line on side panel to allow shear clamp to extend 1/4 inch proud from panel edge. Applied thickened epoxy to both surfaces, then using line on panel as a guide, aligned and clamped the shear clamp to side panel at 6 inch intervals. A very messy job. Don’t see how one can glue, at the same time, both shear clamps on side panels placed back to back. | 4 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Bought 3/8 inch variable speed drill. | 0 |
0 |
43 |
|
| Started design for installing recessed VCP hatches. | 2 |
0 |
0 |
|
0 |
0 |
0 |
||
| 8/08-14/98 | Drilled and loosely wired bottom panels together. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
| Beveled shear clamps to bow and stern. Spread sides at widest point (20 inch) and used string as a guide for marking cutting angles. Used saber saw, hand saw and plane to make the compound cuts. | 4 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Cut off 1 in from bottom of side panels. Only want an 8 inch depth between bottom of hull and top of coaming at rear of coaming in order to lay back onto back deck. Preserved the rocker by cutting off ¾ inch at bow to foot pegs, then increased cut to 1 inch to back bulkhead, and kept 1 inch cut to stern. Will have to trim the stern (shorten boat length). Will wire sides to bottom starting at the stern. Had a scare when I placed the bottom on the sides and it wasn’t 20 inch at the maximum beam. Forgot that the max 20 inch beam only occurs at the deck. | 5 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Bought trammel tool for drawing hatch cutouts. | 1 |
0 |
28 |
|
| Learning Design Cad for designing installation for recessed VCP hatches | 8 |
0 |
0 |
|
0 |
0 |
0 |
||
| 8/15-21/98 | Finished wiring side panels and hull. Had to trim the stern to account for the 1 inch panel width reduction. Also had to add a spacer at the stern so the hull would not be forced fitted to the side panel, | 6 |
0 |
0 |
| Bought two 6 foot 1 in X 1 in square aluminum rods. | 0 |
0 |
20 |
|
| Bought three more plastic buckets. | 0 |
0 |
3 |
|
| Bought from CLC ½ sheet of 6 mm marine plywood | 0 |
65 |
0 |
|
| Bought from CLC ½ gal wood flour | 0 |
12 |
0 |
|
| Bought from CLC 1/2 gal epoxy & hardener | 0 |
65 |
0 |
|
| Bought from CLC 1 quart white paint | 0 |
24 |
0 |
|
| Bought more copper wire | 0 |
9 |
0 |
|
| Fitted bulkheads and braces to test assembly of kayak to see if the 1 inch side panel reduction would affect it. Will have to trim all bulkheads and braces a little. Will have to rebuild shear clamp bevels at bow and stern also. The kayak looks good, and I’m glad I made the 1 inch panel side reduction. It will result in an 8 inch depth at the rear of the cockpit. | 2 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Spread kayak at widest point to 20 inches with a spacer. Made a rear bulkhead pattern fist out of cardboard then a temporary one out of 3/16 plywood. Made a main front deckbeam spacer cut to real deckbeam dimensions for a trial fit. Added spacers at bow and stern to adjust shear clamp bevels to proper spacing due to 1 inch panel removal. Applied 2 inch spring clamps to hold the spacers in place. Measured and removed twist. Used two 6 foot 1X1 in square aluminum rods leveled at about 20 inches from each end. | 8 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Made solid front and rear bulkheads (without holes for access plates) and wired them in place. Side angles of all bulkheads and deckbeams are different now due to 1 inch panel removal. Epoxied fillets in all panels ,bulkheads, and deckbeam joints. Am a little unsure just how thick and wide the fillets should be, I took my best guess at using just enough epoxy thickened with wood flour to cover the wires. Covered panel fillets with 3 inch fiberglass tape, and covered all the inside surfaces with unthickened epoxy. Measured and removed twist. | 12 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Laid out where front and rear VCP hatches will be installed and decided more supporting deckbeams were necessary. Made two more rear deckbeams and one front deckbeam. Fitted rear stringer to rear deckbeams and bulkhead, allowing stringer to jog around VCP hatch area. Will install the rear VCP hatch off center to provide space along side of it for spare paddle. Will install the front VCP hatch on the centerline. Measured, cut, fitted, and installed the main front deckbeam. | 6 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Made masking tape dams 6 inches from the ends of both bow and stern, then filled the area with thickened epoxy This will reinforce the bow and stern, and allow drilling access holes for the toggle carries. Filleted and glued all remaining deckbeams using epoxy thickened with wood flour, then covered the remaining surfaces with unthickened epoxy. The temperature dropped to 40 degrees overnight and the epoxy was not hardening. I put the kayak outside in the sun the next day to have the epoxy harden. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Bought from CLC 1 gal wood flour | 0 |
0 |
24 |
|
| Bought from CLC 1 gal wood flour | 0 |
0 |
24 |
|
| Bought from CLC 1 bag of bronze ring nails | 0 |
0 |
5 |
|
| There doesn’t appear to be any twist from bow to stern, but the angles of the side panels from deck to hull at the bow are not exactly the same, though they are very close. There also appears to be a slight curvature on the starboard side right near the bow. | 0 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Removed all the wire ties. This took a lot longer than I thought. Had to cut off twist, straighten out wire, cut off the wire as close as I could to the surface, and then file off the end flush to the surface. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Made blocks to support kayak when glassing the hull. On the outside of the hull, filled in seams and cavities with epoxy thickened with wood flour. Put the kayak outside in the sun to cure epoxy as the air temperature is in the high 70’s. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
|
| The one half gallon of wood flour supplied in the CLC kit in my opinion is not nearly enough to complete the kayak. Thickening epoxy to the consistency of peanut requires at least a minimum of one gallon of wood flour. | 0 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Sanded the hull using orbital sander with 100 grit paper. Rounded all joints, removed excess epoxy, and smoothed all surfaces. After sanding, filled remaining pits and cavities with epoxy thickened with wood flour. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Kayak hull prior to glassing the outside weighs 29 pounds. Estimate the finished kayak will weigh around 45 pounds. | 0 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Kayak hull after glassing the outside weighs 33 pounds. My fiberglass Recluse weighs 60 pounds. | 0 |
0 |
0 |
|
0 |
0 |
0 |
||
| 8/22-28/98 | Sanded hull using orbital sander with 150 grit paper. Vacuumed up as much dust on the hull, workbench, and in the shop I felt was needed. | 2 |
0 |
0 |
| Covered hull with 4 oz cloth and trimmed it to overhang about an inch. Did not make any cuts at the bow or stern. Applied a coat of unthickened epoxy starting at the center. Used a foam brush at first then switched t a foam roller. I found the roller to be superior to the foam brush. Applied just enough epoxy to wet the cloth. I started at 11 am while the temperature was rising. Bubbles appeared, and I had to pop them until 4 PM when the epoxy thickened enough and bubbles stopped forming. I went to the Kayak Building BB to seek advice on how to deal with bubbles. Found that the best way was to apply the epoxy as the air temperature is dropping, and that would prevent outgassing, the cause of bubbles forming. I then trimmed off the overhanging cloth. I applied a second coat starting around 5:30 PM as the temperature started to drop. The second coat went on pretty fast, and very few bubbles formed. I did notice that in some places where the cloth weave was not uniform and/or pulled a ripple was evident. I n some areas the ripple was caused by uneven surfaces in the wood grain. There doesn’t appear that I can remove the ripples by pressing on the cloth. I’ll have to address them after the epoxy hardens. It’s hard to judge just how much epoxy is needed to saturate the cloth. | 8 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Used cardboard to make a front deck. Taped the cardboard deck to the hull, put the cockpit coaming in place, laid down the foam seat pad, and sat in the boat. I find it difficult to enter and exit the keyhole opening. I may opt for another type coaming, or modify the keyhole. There is plenty of room for my feet, but the space for my knees is tight. The main deckbeam gets in the way. The jog at the bow on the starboard side is visible, but barely noticeable from the cockpit. I will try to remove it when I install the front deck. I believe I can do it by nailing down the port side first, then pull the starboard jog out using a bar and a wire tie. We’ll see. | 4 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Hand sanded hull with 60 grit paper. Just rough upped the surface. Applied the third coat of epoxy. | 4 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Planed shear clamps to conform with deck camber. | 6 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Kayak hull after Planing shear clamps and glassing the outside weighs 32 pounds | 0 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Scanned and processed 6 photos for webpage | 2 |
0 |
0 |
|
0 |
0 |
0 |
||
| 8/29-9/04/98 | Made and installed more stringers to support rear deck in back of cockpit. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
| Made removable foam sections to contain areas in front and rear hatches. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Glassed inside hull floor in cockpit area. | 2 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Fitted rear deck and marked nail spots. Cutout hole for VCP rear hatch in rear deck prior to installing deck. Installed rear deck. Used thickened epoxy on all shear clamp areas, bulkheads, deckbeams, and stringers. | 9 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Marked location of front VCP hatch on front deck. Plan to make a cardboard model for installing the recessed Front VCP hatch. Plan to make a platform to support VCP hatch and then install the front deck over it. | 1 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Started fabrication of platform for VCP hatch on front deck. Moved hatch closer to mid deckbeam. Made platform and bezel. Using string to measure contour of recess walls. Will have deck cover recess wall to use wall for support of deck. | 8 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Bought 5/4 in X 12 in X 6 ft pine for recess walls. | 0 |
10 |
0 |
|
| Bought fine cutting saber saw blades | 0 |
0 |
4 |
|
| Bought Contact cement | 0 |
5 |
0 |
|
| Bought plastic tubes for epoxy fillets | 0 |
4 |
0 |
|
| Bought Black paint for trim | 0 |
0 |
10 |
|
| Bought All Craft epoxy | 0 |
0 |
22 |
|
0 |
0 |
0 |
||
| 9/05-11/98 | Finished making a platform for recessing front VCP hatch. Used string to measure and mark pattern on an 11 ½ in pine ring The ring is being used for the walls of the recess. Had to modify the contour of the ring after epoxying Glued 4 mm plywood to the top of the ring and then using string as a guide, sanded the ring to match contour of front deck. | 8 |
0 |
0 |
| Installed foot braces. Made backing plates out of 4 mm plywood. Removed them while installing front deck. | 2 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Made and installed a bezel for rear the VCP hatch. Added 4 mm plywood to match VCP hatch contour, as deck is slightly curved. | 5 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Fitted front deck and cut an opening for front the VCP hatch. Marked the locations of all spots for ring nails. Used a combination of straps and ropes to hold the deck in position while fitting and marking. | 4 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Trimmed main deckbeam | 1 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Glued down the front deck to shear clamps and bulkheads. Used ring nails and thickened epoxy. Started by tacking down one side of the front deck at its butt joint with the rear deck, then tacked the bow followed by the other side at its butt joint with the rear deck. Decided not to reinforce the butt joints with plywood. Will let the coaming act as a reinforcement as it covers most of the joint. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Scanned and processed more photos for the webpage. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Epoxied the ends of the coaming sections together using All Craft epoxy. | 1 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Bought 3 in back band. | 0 |
45 |
0 |
|
| Kayak weighs 42 pounds with deck, VCP platform, and VCP bezel installed. | 0 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Trimmed the deck opening around front the VCP hatch recess using a hand saw and a file. Filled in gaps with thickened epoxy and All Craft epoxy. | 2 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Trimmed the front deck edges with saber saw, then planed them true. | 1 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Using one of the coaming pieces as a guide, marked the outline of the coaming on the deck. Trimmed off the excess material to within 1/8 in of the marked deck opening with a saber saw. | 1 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Installed coaming pieces one complete section at a time using All Craft epoxy instead of stacking all pieces together at one time. Used brads at each end as guide posts while gluing. Clamped the first section to deck with 2 in spring clamps but had to use C clamps at each end. Glued second section over the first. In order to have the second section overlay the first, I had to pull the section from the side walls with clamps in order to align it. I wanted to avoid the staircase effect you would get if you stacked the three sections together and glued them all at once to the deck. Trimmed and sanded opening in deck before gluing on the rim, then epoxied the rim to the topmost section. Had to use side clamps again in order to align the rim properly. | 6 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Filled in the space between deck and side walls with very thickened epoxy. Space is there because the shear clamps were installed to far above the edge of the side walls. I would have had to plane down all the bulkheads and deckbeams in order to have the deck contact the side walls. The cutouts for the shear clamps in the deckbeams and bulkheads was not deep enough to begin with. Covered all the ring nail heads with thickened epoxy. I countersunk the ring nail heads just below the deck surface. Sanded deck with 100 grit paper. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
|
| The boat is looking real good. The recessed VCP hatch came out really good. The bottom of the hull at the bow appears to dip down a little. This is probably due to my cutting off 1 in from the side walls. I like the way it looks. It also appears that the bend I noticed on the starboard side near the bow is not pronounced anymore. | 0 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Bought ½ gal of epoxy and 1 quart of resin | 0 |
60 |
0 |
|
| Glassed the coaming rim. | 2 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Sanded the deck then and epoxied the deck with unthickened epoxy. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
|
0 |
0 |
0 |
||
| 9/12-18/98 | Glued in the VCP hatch bases with All Craft epoxy, filled in missed places with All Craft epoxy tinted with wood flour, and added a fillet to the rear bulkhead at the deck joint. | 4 |
0 |
0 |
| Bought paint brushes, masking tape, gloves and backband mounting hardware. | 0 |
25 |
0 |
|
| Installed backband, holder for pump, and bungee for paddle float. Used brass ¼-20 inserts in the coaming for the backband. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Laid out decklines and spare paddle to get a view of how the kayak will look when finished. It will look great. The back VCP is not as obtrusive with the deck lines and spare paddle in place. I’m going to leave the deck finished with varnish so the wood is visible. I’ll paint the sides and bottom of the hull white. For decklines I’ll use the strap and loop method. I trial fitted the seat, and the CLC seat appears to be a good one. I removed the keyhole shape of the coaming as I found it to confining. I made a knee brace out of minicell foam. I like to sit forward away from the rear bulkhead, and positioned the backband accordingly. I removed more material from the main curved deckbeam to clear my knees. I’ll have to remove some more. The skirt I’m using on the RECLUSE fits the North Bay coaming very well. | 4 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Bought Z-Spar varnish, webbing, and hardware for decklines | 0 |
30 |
0 |
|
| Sanded sides, bottom, and deck | 6 |
0 |
0 |
|
| I sanded off some of the epoxy drips on the sides. I thought I had sanded off the fiberglass cloth and was down to the bare wood. I had planned to have a trial launch , but after reading about the Okume plywood not being very durable, I decided to wait until the kayak is finished. I wanted to remove all the undesirable drip marks, so I started by hand sanding with 150 grit paper. As I was sanding, in a few places the fiberglass cloth started to appear.. At this point, I knew that I had not sanded the cloth off. I began using my power finishing sander with 150 grit paper, eventually I switches to the orbital sander and the sides were starting to look and feel real smooth. I then decided to sand the bottom, but just enough to arrive at a smooth surface for painting. The fiberglass cloth had rippled in a few places, and I decided to leave the ripple in. as I didn’t want to weaken the bottom. After sanding the hull, It looks and feels very smooth. I then sanded the deck with 150 grit using both the finishing and orbital sanders. I’ll add another coat of epoxy to the deck as the first one did not cover and penetrate the deck very well in many places. I used acetone, paint thinner and finally water to remove all the residue left by the sanding. | 0 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Masked off sides in preparation to coat the deck with 2nd coat of epoxy followed by the finishing coats (paint or varnish – I haven’t decided yet). I used plastic sheet draped on the sides and held with masking tape to the top of each side I ran it along the entire length of the deck on each side. Reread CLC’s comments on how to apply varnish and paint. Getting my workshop dust free is going to be a major challenge, more likely impossible. | 2 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Added 2nd coat of epoxy. | 1 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Bought more painting and varnishing supplies, Bristle brushes, foam brushes, foam rollers. Plastic and paper buckets. | 0 |
0 |
25 |
|
0 |
0 |
0 |
||
| 9/19-25/98 | Applied 3 coats of Z-Spar varnish to the deck, sanded with 400 grit paper between coats. Cleaned the surface with paint thinner also. Can’t seem to avoid having some dust around. Wetted down the floor and other surfaces also. | 10 |
0 |
0 |
| Made a knee brace out of minicell foam, cemented the seat together, and trimmed more off of the main deckbeam to make more room for the knees. | 1 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Installed deck lines and bunges. Used loops made out of nylon straps. Fastened loops to deck with 1 ¼ in bronze wood screws tipped with All Craft epoxy and screwed into the sheer clamps. Will probably cover place where spare paddle and paddle is parked scratches the deck. | 8 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Masked off deck with plastic sheet. Washed the hull with paint thinner then applied 1 coat of white Interlux marine paint on hull. | 4 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Sanded first coat of paint. Paint seems not to be drying properly. Put on a second coat of paint. The temperature overnight drops below 40° F and the paint is not adhering to the hull. Put the kayak out in the sun to heat it up, then brought the kayak in the house to dry. Had the temperature up to 80° F, but still the paint doesn’t want to adhere to the deck. Called CUC and they said it may take up to four weeks for the paint to dry because of the temperature drop. I decided not to wait, it was also possible that the paint would never dry properly. | 6 |
0 |
0 |
|
| I removed the paint. I used razor blades, wood chisels and a variety of paint scrapers to take off the paint. A lot of the paint peeled off in long strips. I used the scrapers to remove the paint that wouldn’t peel. After most of it was removed, I took the rest off by using a finishing sander with 60 grit paper followed up with 120 grit paper. After sanding, I cleaned the hull with lacquer thinner. | 12 |
0 |
0 |
|
| After masking the deck with plastic sheet, I moved the kayak into a portable building that has a vinyl fabric cover. With the sun beating down on the roof, the temperature inside can easily go above 80CF. I coated the hull with unthickened epoxy while the temperature was around 85° . The epoxy application went very well in this environment. I used a foam brush instead of a foam roller this time. | 8 |
0 |
0 |
|
0 |
0 |
0 |
||
| 9/26-10/2/98 | Moved the kayak back to the workshop. Installed the minicell foam seat and knee brace using contact cement. Installed a stainless steel eye bolt to use with a padlock. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
| Sanded the re-epoxied hull using a finish sander with 220 grit paper. Cleaned the hull with lacquer thinner. The epoxy has been curing for a day and a half. The air temperature is 80° F, and the forecast is for a 50% chance of thundershowers late in the day. Tomorrow the forecast is sunny, windy and cooler. The sun is shining now, it’s mid afternoon, and I decided to put a coat of varnish over the epoxy. I moved the kayak back to the portable building and with a foam brush, applied a thin coat of varnish. The varnish dried quickly and without running. At this point I figure that the paint fiasco was a blessing in disguise. The hull looks a great deal better now then it did before I started to paint it. I’m thinking that the only paint I’ll apply is a white stripe at the deckline. Thundershowers started around 7pm. | 4 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Installed minicell foam hip pads and knee pads. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Sanded hull very lightly by hand with 400 grit paper. Applied a second coat of varnish to the hull with the kayak inside the sun warmed portable building. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Removed the plastic sheet masking the deck, and had to touch up some areas where the epoxy and varnish leaked under the masking tape. | 3 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Installed the foot braces and carry toggles, and finished up some deck rigging | 2 |
0 |
0 |
|
| Launched the kayak. Found it a little tippy at first, but after an hour of paddling and a few rolls it felt great. | 0 |
0 |
0 |
|
0 |
0 |
0 |
||
| Totals | =SUM(ABOVE) | 335 |
$1244 |
$733 |
1 Scarf and Sheer |
5 Hull Glassing |
9 Finishing |
|
2 Hull Wiring |
6 Rear Deck |
10 Outfitting |
|
3 Inside Fillets |
7 Front Deck |
11 Launching |
|
4 Outside Fillets |
8 Coaming |
12 Logbook |