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1998 Honda Civic Ex Turbo
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I bought a low-mileage (45k) 1998 Honda Civic EX for the expressed purpose of adding an Edelbrock D16 turbo kit with a Garrett GT28R ball bearing turbocharger. This car was pristine with all service records and the price was right. The owner was glad that the car was going to a nice family, instead of some punk that would just "rice it out". The car was barely cooled from the drive home before the turbo kit was aquired and the modification from commuter car to boosted demon started. So much for a "nice family"...
 
Everything went well with the turbo kit installation. The Edelbrock kit is without a doubt the most comprehensive and complete kit available. It costs a bit more, but the quality of the components makes it well worth it.
 
Anyway, the car was completed late one night, with the last step being the installation of the boost gauge. Since I was only driving a short distance home and wasn't going to be getting on it, I decided that the boost gauge wasn't necessary (fatal error). Besides the kit has nothing to adjust or tweek and needs no further tuning, so the boost gauge was really just a cool thing to watch while driving. I drove it for a few days like this, never really getting too deep into the gas pedal, but the extra power was obvious, and the Tial BOV sounded like a whip crack at every shift. Then on Saturday, I decided that today was the day to see what she could do. I got a clear bit of road in front of me and nailed it in first gear. Holy Cow, this thing just turned the front tires into smoke machines and off we went. This is cool. I never dreamed that 6 psi of boost could do so much. Hint: it can't. I got one or two more good pulls in and then it happened. I was at a stop sign and was going to to do a "spirited" 4000 rpm launch, not a smoky burnout, but a brisk getaway. I got about halfway across the intersection and the engine made a really bad series of metallic noises. I immediately pushed the clutch in and the idle was very rough. I shut the engine off and got out. I had a trail of Mobil 1 and coolant behind the car. I was on a bit of a hill so I got back in and coasted onto a side street. Of course, I left the house without my phone or wallet and with just some Nike sandals on, so I had to hoof it 3 miles home to call for a tow. When the tow truck arrived, I had already picked up various bits of aluminum block and steel connecting rod off of the street, so I had an idea of what was wrong, but I had no idea of why. With the car up on the hook, I got a good look underneath, and it was not good (see block pic below).
 
An inspection of all parts revealed a freak diaphragm failure of the wastegate actuator on the turbo, so I had no boost control at all and way more than 6 psi of boost. No wonder that it felt so strong, and no wonder that the spindly D16 rods gave up. The finally tally of damage was the broken rod, one bent rod, one piston with broken ring lands and one piston/rod combo with no damage at all.
 
So what's next? A built engine, of course. A new (used) block has been aquired and prepped for 0.010" over SRP pistons with Scat forged H-beam rods. The crank survived so it has been balanced with all of the other rotating bits and has had the journals micro-polished. The head was not damaged, so it will be used with no modification other than ARP studs holding it down. A Cometic head gasket will complete the package. Drivetrain duties will be handled by a Clutch Specialties 230ft-lb setup with a lightened flywheel, and a Phantom Grip LSD with the upgrade springs in the diff. I know that the Phantom Grip is a bit controversial, but these transmissions are fairly cheap to buy used, so if this thing comes apart, I will just get a new one.
 
Photos of the engine build-up will be added to this page as it happens. Stay tuned...

This is me and Jay installing the turbo kit
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This photo appeared in Sport Compact Car Dec 2003

Too much BOOST...
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This is what happens when a failed wastegate actuator allows unchecked boost.

Obviously, this is the rod that let go...
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I picked up the small pieces off of the street!

As mentioned above, I decided to go with a Phantom Grip LSD. This product gets alot of bad press on the forums, but I believe that is because most people who have had bad experiences don't install them correctly. The key is to get as large of a surface contact as possible between the Phantom Grip block and the face of the spider gear. These gears are cast and have a rough cast surface so contact area is low. Also, on that face, the Honda gears have a cast ridge, further limiting contact area. That ridge must be removed and the cast surface finished. I put mine on a surface grinder to ensure that the surfaces were perfectly flat and parallel to the back of the gear. This should give the best possible performance. Here is the unit installed. Also the exhaust manifold, turbine housing, and outlet elbow were sent to SwainTech for thermal barrier coating. This was done primarily for cosmetic (anti-rust) reasons. If it helps keep the engine compartment cooler, then that is just a bonus. The SRP 9.0:1 pistons were also sent to SwainTech for their crown and skirt coatings. I am hoping that the skirt coating will help reduce any piston slap on cold start-ups.

Phantom Grip installed
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I used the optional high pressure springs

Swain-Tech Coated exhaust components
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I will probably paint them black before installation

SRP piston with SwainTech coatings
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Dyno Chart at 7 psi boost
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TURBO!