1 00:00:07,500 --> 00:00:10,500 I'm going to realize a dream I've had for a long time: 2 00:00:11,000 --> 00:00:17,000 Living one year in "Nordkalotten", above the arctic circle of Norway, Sweden & Finland. 3 00:00:17,500 --> 00:00:20,000 Seeking out the most unknown parts of this wilderness. 4 00:00:21,000 --> 00:00:25,000 Be there when the seasons change. 5 00:00:25,400 --> 00:00:29,000 Travel the whole time. Fish. Hunt. Experience animals at close range. 6 00:00:31,200 --> 00:00:34,000 That's what really matters to me. 7 00:01:10,000 --> 00:01:13,000 Say goodbye... A quick kiss... 8 00:01:14,000 --> 00:01:17,000 Good trip... Thanks... 9 00:01:23,100 --> 00:01:25,000 It's autumn... 10 00:01:25,000 --> 00:01:29,100 During the next month I'll backpack from Kalmankaltio in Finland to Karasjok. 11 00:01:29,200 --> 00:01:35,500 I'm going to spend a lot of time in Upper Anarjohka National Park. 12 00:01:35,500 --> 00:01:40,000 It's one of the least known wilderness areas, but also the most interesting. 13 00:01:40,000 --> 00:01:44,000 During the trip I will meet a Sami moose hunting party and stay with them a few days. 14 00:01:44,000 --> 00:01:47,000 The rest of the time I'll be all alone, just me and my canoe. 15 00:01:49,800 --> 00:01:54,800 Since I'm starting on the Finnish side, I'll have to carry a lot at first. 16 00:01:55,000 --> 00:02:00,400 The reward is that I get to see parts of Anarjohka few other people have seen. 17 00:02:09,600 --> 00:02:20,400 I've walked a few km on a moraine by this river, now I'm below where it meets another river. 18 00:02:21,400 --> 00:02:26,700 And I come up on this ridge, to lookout over the world! 19 00:02:27,040 --> 00:02:30,120 Here, it's great! 20 00:02:36,810 --> 00:02:41,610 I'll put my equipment here by the river, and get rest for tomorrow. 21 00:03:01,610 --> 00:03:03,610 It will be great to get my shoes off. 22 00:03:05,610 --> 00:03:13,610 One of the extras I carry is a pair of sneakers as camp shoes. 23 00:03:13,610 --> 00:03:17,410 The little extra weight is worth it. 24 00:03:22,610 --> 00:03:28,410 These boots are waterproof, but that doesn't help when no water gets out, - 25 00:03:28,410 --> 00:03:30,610 - so these socks are drenched with sweat. 26 00:03:31,610 --> 00:03:34,610 They are getting greenish. 27 00:03:36,610 --> 00:03:38,410 This smells nice! 28 00:03:44,110 --> 00:03:48,510 Now the pike stay in the pot and enjoy themselves a bit. 29 00:03:50,610 --> 00:03:57,010 I chose neoprene boots instead of leather. 30 00:03:57,010 --> 00:04:08,510 Because I will mostly be in the canoe, but expected heavy lifting the first few days. 31 00:04:08,510 --> 00:04:13,610 I have to say - for that job, they didn't work. 32 00:04:13,610 --> 00:04:16,610 My feet are really beaten up. 33 00:04:17,610 --> 00:04:23,610 Last night I laid there two hours feeling the pain in my feet. 34 00:04:23,610 --> 00:04:29,610 It just hurt and hurt - the support and sole are not good enough. 35 00:04:29,610 --> 00:04:35,610 These don't work if you carry more than 30 kilos. 36 00:04:35,620 --> 00:04:38,620 For that, use traditional leather boots. 37 00:04:43,920 --> 00:04:46,920 That's the price I pay for bad footwear. 38 00:04:48,920 --> 00:04:51,520 I chose the wrong boots. 39 00:05:05,220 --> 00:05:07,920 This is just like a dream! 40 00:05:11,520 --> 00:05:19,520 At the top of the waterway, it's crowded. Hopefully there's more room downstream. 41 00:05:20,620 --> 00:05:24,520 Right or left side in this rapid? 42 00:05:24,920 --> 00:05:26,520 We just go down the middle... 43 00:05:52,120 --> 00:05:53,020 Come on... 44 00:05:58,020 --> 00:06:00,020 Come on... Come on... 45 00:06:03,020 --> 00:06:04,020 That's it... 46 00:06:06,000 --> 00:06:07,430 So great! 47 00:06:07,930 --> 00:06:09,730 We get paid for our toil! 48 00:06:09,930 --> 00:06:12,130 Look at this! 49 00:06:22,230 --> 00:06:24,630 This is what I want - 50 00:06:24,930 --> 00:06:26,930 - to be alone in the wilderness. 51 00:06:27,430 --> 00:06:30,230 Not many get to experience this. 52 00:06:31,130 --> 00:06:36,030 I know how incredibly privileged I am. I think about that every day. 53 00:06:45,230 --> 00:06:49,330 No doubt this trout is at least one kilo! 54 00:06:56,430 --> 00:06:59,300 Oi! - that didn't stay put. 55 00:07:01,230 --> 00:07:03,330 The first trout! 56 00:07:08,030 --> 00:07:09,630 Dinner is secured! 57 00:07:15,240 --> 00:07:19,240 You have no idea how great that trout tastes. 58 00:07:20,100 --> 00:07:24,740 When I eat pike and greyling, I'm thankful for the food. 59 00:07:25,140 --> 00:07:28,440 But when I eat trout, I'm thankful - 60 00:07:29,240 --> 00:07:33,540 - that I'm not eating greyling and pike! 61 00:07:42,840 --> 00:07:46,540 Here we have a cup of coffee. It's a good comrade. 62 00:07:47,140 --> 00:07:52,540 Typical spread; liver paté and cheese, and cheese and liver paté... 63 00:07:53,640 --> 00:07:58,940 Here's kit for the next fire. For the next camp in case there's no willow there. 64 00:07:58,940 --> 00:08:07,040 Willow's great for starting a fire. Here is coffee, two hunter's stews and mashed potatoes. 65 00:08:07,040 --> 00:08:11,540 This is my residence. It's a bit small, I think. 66 00:08:11,640 --> 00:08:21,040 The tent's under this tarpaulin to keep it dry. I have enough guy lines to tie to the trees. 67 00:08:21,040 --> 00:08:26,840 I hang my clothes under it, hopefully near the fire so they can dry. 68 00:08:38,000 --> 00:08:43,750 Moose hunting in Upper Anarjohka National Park is exotic, and I can't wait to experience it. 69 00:08:43,950 --> 00:08:52,350 I'll meet the hunting party at a cabin at Noarvvas. At this speed I'll arrive tomorrow afternoon, - 70 00:08:52,950 --> 00:08:56,350 - probably before they land by helicopter. 71 00:08:56,850 --> 00:08:58,550 They are flying in. 72 00:09:21,150 --> 00:09:24,350 Look at this, these are moose footprints. 73 00:09:26,950 --> 00:09:32,750 This is great moose country, but I haven't seen any. I've just seen tracks, fresh spoor. 74 00:09:33,150 --> 00:09:40,950 They are masters at staying away. Even one man with no dogs in a canoe makes too much noise. 75 00:09:41,050 --> 00:09:46,550 They sneak away. But they're here... 76 00:10:10,050 --> 00:10:13,650 I'll put up my tent here, even though it's just 30 metres away from the hut. 77 00:10:14,150 --> 00:10:20,150 It's better to sleep with fresh air and no snoring. 78 00:10:36,360 --> 00:10:39,320 -Hello! John Isaac. -Nice! 79 00:10:40,520 --> 00:10:43,160 Hi! -Anne Risten. 80 00:10:43,280 --> 00:10:45,600 Hi! Hi! Øystein Flage. 81 00:10:45,720 --> 00:10:48,000 Josef Iver. 82 00:10:48,120 --> 00:10:51,720 -Welcome to Noarvvas! Harald Ingebrigtsen. -Thank you! 83 00:10:51,840 --> 00:10:56,720 Hi! So nice you are! You're great! 84 00:10:57,800 --> 00:11:01,000 Upper Anarjohka is a national park, - 85 00:11:01,120 --> 00:11:05,760 - and to avoid wear and tear, hunters must be flown in. 86 00:11:05,920 --> 00:11:09,400 So there will be a helicopter. 87 00:11:09,520 --> 00:11:14,320 This is not a disadvantage if you want extra provisions! 88 00:11:14,440 --> 00:11:17,400 There are a lot of goodies. 89 00:11:17,520 --> 00:11:23,560 -Home-baked bread and stuff! -We're on vacation, so we're on vacation. 90 00:11:23,680 --> 00:11:28,320 Lars, have a seat. Here's some moose we shot last year. 91 00:11:28,480 --> 00:11:34,000 -Fried and smoked in the Sami way. -It looks fantastically good. 92 00:11:34,160 --> 00:11:39,080 -Where should I sit? -Here is a seat for you. 93 00:11:39,200 --> 00:11:42,960 -Next to the old man. -'Old man', are you? 94 00:11:43,120 --> 00:11:48,880 He's younger than me, but I call him the old man. 95 00:11:52,600 --> 00:11:59,000 -Lapin Kulta. -This will taste great! Thanks a lot! 96 00:12:21,040 --> 00:12:24,080 Oi, oi ... 97 00:12:31,400 --> 00:12:36,840 Fantastic morning. Everyone is waking up and fast. 98 00:12:38,600 --> 00:12:43,000 Not a breath of wind. It's gray. 99 00:12:44,640 --> 00:12:48,360 You can see moose a bit better than when it's sunny. 100 00:12:50,480 --> 00:12:54,320 Great Hunter in the group is no doubt Anne Risten. 101 00:12:54,440 --> 00:13:00,400 Despite the fact that she is only 18 years old, she has shot three moose. 102 00:13:00,520 --> 00:13:05,360 Who takes a little more time, is Harald Ingebrigtsen. 103 00:13:05,480 --> 00:13:10,000 My name's Harald Ingebrigtsen and I come from the Big Korsnes. 104 00:13:10,160 --> 00:13:15,960 I've hunted for seven years, and have not myself shot a moose, - 105 00:13:16,120 --> 00:13:20,000 - but have been involved in trapping a lot of moose. 106 00:13:21,520 --> 00:13:26,880 Moose hunting is more difficult in the Upper Anarjohka than many other places. 107 00:13:27,040 --> 00:13:29,640 The terrain here is pretty flat. 108 00:13:29,760 --> 00:13:34,440 Moose have no narrow canyons or valleys to run in. 109 00:13:34,600 --> 00:13:40,920 Therefore, hunting shapes up differently. Using binoculars to a great extent. 110 00:13:41,080 --> 00:13:44,120 One scouts for hours until you find the animals, - 111 00:13:44,280 --> 00:13:47,640 - and then sneak up on one. 112 00:13:47,800 --> 00:13:51,840 Exactly where he, in a way, controls us. 113 00:13:52,000 --> 00:13:58,040 Now we can use the small gray dog to get the better of him. 114 00:13:58,160 --> 00:14:05,400 If we go over there with the dog, we get safely far from them. 115 00:14:07,480 --> 00:14:13,720 Now we are approaching the mound where John Isaac saw the moose. 116 00:14:14,840 --> 00:14:19,600 Øystein spotted another, so there are two beasts there. 117 00:14:19,720 --> 00:14:22,640 The dog is out there in the terrain. 118 00:14:22,760 --> 00:14:25,640 I don't think the moose will disappear. 119 00:14:35,920 --> 00:14:42,440 I'll follow whoever I think will shoot the moose. I'll walk with Anne. 120 00:14:44,520 --> 00:14:49,480 Moose is about 400 meters away. 121 00:14:50,600 --> 00:14:54,120 Behind the nearest small forest grove. 122 00:14:55,240 --> 00:14:58,640 One cannot fool them twice. 123 00:15:27,160 --> 00:15:32,440 -How far do you think it is there? -How far is it? 124 00:15:33,800 --> 00:15:37,040 300 meters. 125 00:15:56,920 --> 00:16:01,080 It is exciting getting this close to the animals. 126 00:16:01,200 --> 00:16:04,800 Very thrilling. 127 00:16:18,120 --> 00:16:21,360 There go the animals. They were spooked. 128 00:16:21,460 --> 00:16:24,000 They ran. 129 00:16:25,100 --> 00:16:30,200 That's it. It was impressive that we got video, anyways. 130 00:16:49,360 --> 00:16:53,080 Now it's been six days of hunting. 131 00:16:53,200 --> 00:16:57,600 We have been near moose several times, but they were startled. 132 00:16:57,720 --> 00:17:00,960 It is difficult to approach them. 133 00:17:01,080 --> 00:17:04,960 Hunting has given little benefit in terms of reach, - 134 00:17:05,080 --> 00:17:09,000 - but now we try a new method. 135 00:17:09,120 --> 00:17:14,160 We will be laid out at night in the middle of moose terrain. 136 00:17:14,280 --> 00:17:18,680 Then we hope one comes to us tomorrow. 137 00:17:19,400 --> 00:17:26,640 I grew up in a time of few moose, so I have plenty of patience. 138 00:17:30,440 --> 00:17:32,880 (gunshot) 139 00:17:33,040 --> 00:17:35,320 I have to laugh. 140 00:17:35,440 --> 00:17:39,240 This is day nine of moose hunting. 141 00:17:41,840 --> 00:17:47,200 In the morning both John Isaac and the dog slept - 142 00:17:47,320 --> 00:17:51,520 - and the moose disappeared and was lost. 143 00:17:51,640 --> 00:17:55,560 Then a moose cow shows up at the hut, - 144 00:17:55,680 --> 00:18:00,160 - where Harald and Josef Iver are. 145 00:18:01,880 --> 00:18:07,560 Harald's making coffee, Joseph Iver's sitting on the toilet. 146 00:18:07,720 --> 00:18:11,080 So Harald goes out and shoots the moose. 147 00:18:11,240 --> 00:18:17,200 And our group can only trudge back to the hut. 148 00:18:21,840 --> 00:18:25,040 Congratulations! 149 00:18:25,160 --> 00:18:29,760 -Who was the shooter? -He's squatting down there. 150 00:18:30,360 --> 00:18:34,520 -Congratulations, Harald! -I just saw! 151 00:18:35,080 --> 00:18:39,000 An evil tongue said that Harald was totally scared. 152 00:18:39,120 --> 00:18:43,200 It's been ten years since you've shot. 153 00:18:43,320 --> 00:18:49,640 It's only seven years, and I have been involved in killing of moose. 154 00:18:49,760 --> 00:18:55,240 We work as a team, it's no good just to be selfish. 155 00:18:55,400 --> 00:18:58,560 This time it was my turn. 156 00:18:58,680 --> 00:19:04,600 So I couldn't refuse to shoot! -It was funny that you got it! 157 00:19:04,760 --> 00:19:07,600 So welcome! 158 00:19:32,120 --> 00:19:35,600 Here is enough to enjoy. 159 00:19:38,320 --> 00:19:42,120 We poor people have it good. 160 00:19:42,240 --> 00:19:45,960 We show off our trophy! Now the job's done. 161 00:19:47,600 --> 00:19:49,880 -Congratulations! -Thank you! 162 00:19:50,040 --> 00:19:54,240 It was time. I think you've grown! 163 00:19:57,800 --> 00:20:03,600 What proof is this here? Can we call it a felling drink? 164 00:20:03,720 --> 00:20:09,000 -So you begrudge me that? -We must treat you to it. 165 00:20:09,120 --> 00:20:13,600 Should it all be drunk at once? Then I must draw a breath. 166 00:20:19,480 --> 00:20:22,000 Good as painful death! 167 00:20:30,000 --> 00:20:32,440 20th of September. First snow. 168 00:20:48,240 --> 00:20:50,880 -See you! -Have a good trip! 169 00:20:57,120 --> 00:21:00,120 This has been a very pleasant stay. 170 00:21:00,240 --> 00:21:02,640 A fantastic nice bunch. 171 00:21:02,800 --> 00:21:06,080 Fine nights with great story- telling around the table. 172 00:21:06,200 --> 00:21:09,240 Moose were here also. Perfect. 173 00:21:09,400 --> 00:21:13,640 But now I have to set course for Bavttajohka. 174 00:21:13,760 --> 00:21:16,200 I can bear it, - 175 00:21:16,360 --> 00:21:22,280 - for I'll get a fantastic trip through the heart of the wilds here. 176 00:21:22,440 --> 00:21:26,240 It'll take ten or twelve days to Karasjok. 177 00:22:50,240 --> 00:22:52,760 First fire using pine. 178 00:22:55,080 --> 00:23:00,880 The sight of the pines that stand on the hilltop here, - 179 00:23:01,000 --> 00:23:05,120 - was a delight. 180 00:23:06,160 --> 00:23:12,160 Seeing the pines does something to one. Then the good fire. 181 00:23:12,480 --> 00:23:16,880 It's quite different than a fire with birch wood. 182 00:23:23,280 --> 00:23:27,920 Bavttajohka and the Anarjohka are best known for white fish. 183 00:23:28,040 --> 00:23:31,680 There have been a lot of grayling in the past. 184 00:23:31,880 --> 00:23:37,920 But if you go a little away from the river, one can find good trout water. 185 00:24:11,200 --> 00:24:15,000 Have you seen such a wonderful fish! 186 00:24:15,600 --> 00:24:18,440 It's beautiful! 187 00:24:23,880 --> 00:24:27,480 A magnificent example of trout. 188 00:24:32,800 --> 00:24:36,640 I will just land it. 189 00:24:47,880 --> 00:24:50,560 Wonderful! 190 00:24:51,260 --> 00:24:54,850 Dinner is secured. It is certainly red, and fine in the flesh. 191 00:24:56,040 --> 00:25:01,600 I choose not to tell where this water is flowing. 192 00:25:01,760 --> 00:25:07,200 If too many are caught here, the whole trout strain could disappear. 193 00:25:07,880 --> 00:25:12,840 Look at the lovely shape. It's a log! 194 00:25:28,080 --> 00:25:33,000 It's unbelievable! I'm standing just three meters away. 195 00:25:33,520 --> 00:25:40,040 A kilogram trout is in the process of digging a pit to spawn. 196 00:25:41,320 --> 00:25:46,840 It goes in circles, just like a dog going to bed. 197 00:25:46,960 --> 00:25:50,160 And then curls its tail. 198 00:25:53,560 --> 00:25:56,600 Amazing to watch! 199 00:26:04,040 --> 00:26:09,840 It is so wonderful that I lose the desire to catch them. 200 00:26:09,960 --> 00:26:15,440 I have dinner for today and tomorrow. I am pleased with that. 200 00:26:18,460 --> 00:26:24,700 (learn to filet fish at nrk.no/monsen) 201 00:26:26,080 --> 00:26:30,000 This tour through Anarjohka has been a wilderness adventure. 202 00:26:30,160 --> 00:26:34,920 In the morning I paddled the last bit down to Karasjok. 203 00:26:35,080 --> 00:26:39,080 Thus, the end of paddling for the year. 204 00:26:39,200 --> 00:26:45,200 At the same time, it's delightful to think that this is just the beginning. 205 00:26:45,360 --> 00:26:47,680 Winter is just around the corner. 206 00:26:47,840 --> 00:26:53,000 The snow comes, the ice makes its bed. It is a different world. 207 00:26:53,120 --> 00:26:56,320 I can't wait! 208 00:26:56,880 --> 00:27:01,560 There is only one thing that remains. 209 00:27:06,280 --> 00:27:10,360 Burning my underpants. 210 00:27:13,480 --> 00:27:16,480 They burn well! 211 00:27:17,200 --> 00:27:19,480 (next week) 212 00:27:24,000 --> 00:27:26,120 Is there anybody home? 213 00:27:26,240 --> 00:27:28,800 Wow, that was actually a huge wolf! 214 00:27:41,220 --> 00:27:44,760 (Subtitles: Lex Ein, Sondre Paulsen) 215 00:27:44,860 --> 00:27:48,160 (subs.hopto.org) 216 00:27:48,860 --> 00:27:48,861 Sat Dec 05 2009 08:14:23 +toil,trophy