Another successful day in Fort Macleod, Alberta.  Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump, a UNESCO world heritage site, is one of the largest, oldest and best-preserved communal bison hunting sites in of North America; we visited one in South Dakota last year.  From the film that recreates a buffalo drive through the five levels of the interpretive center we learned the different aspects of history for this area.  Then we walked down Main Street and marveled at the hundred-plus year old buildings and the pressed metal ceiling panels of the 1912 Empress Theatre.  This was a good stop along Hwy 2.

Have I mentioned that we are in Mountain Time?  It is a good time zone.  I know I've commented that we are sad the days are "normal" again.  Today we drove to Fort Macleod and toured the Museum of the North West Mounted  Police and enjoyed the Mounted Patrol Musical Ride; we visited with the high school kids who perform this daily ride.  Tomorrow we go to Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump and walk around the town's Main Street which is a designated Historical Area.

On our walk around Stampede Park we saw the Saddledome, home of the Calgary Flames; on the second floor of the BMO Center the Grain Academy Museum had excellent displays on western Canada’s grain industry, a cross section view of a working grain elevator, and a train exhibit showing the grain from field to market.  There was much activity for setting up registration to the World Skill Games was going on with volunteers everywhere; this has been advertised since we arrived.  This morning we headed to the Canada Olympic Park, venue for the 1988 Calgary Winter Games, and spent an hour at the Museum; it displayed Canadian Winter Games memorabilia, a historical timeline, and info on the 2010 Vancouver games.  Paul wanted another set of chocks so we went to Canadian Tire, a big department store; we have been enjoying the views from the roads that hang off the foothills and cross the Bow River.

We are in Calgary for a few days.  It has warmed up: 80 degrees today as we walked along Stephens Avenue downtown admiring the buildings from the 1890’s to 1920’s and then a few newer ones wrapped around them; at the end is Olympic Plaza where awards were given out in 1988.  We also walked to the “Family of Man” statuary in front of the Dept. of Education; and then to the riverfront where we entered Chinatown and the Chinese Cultural Center  Museum, modeled after a temple in Beijing that only the emperors used, and the largest in North America.   Parking was $8/hour or $22 for the whole day; we walked (or stood) for almost five hours with a break for falafel pitas.  Tomorrow we go to Stampede Park and the Grain Academy; want to see Olympic Park Museum – we can see the slopes from our campground. 

Tuesday 08.25.09

“Ooo, look at that” was most of our conversation today.   After 39 degrees in the am we drove along the Icefields Parkway, stopping to take pictures and finally arriving at the Columbia Icefield; we took an “Ice Explorer” right on to the glacier, walked around on ice and slush, drank 400 year old glacial water, and took lots of pictures; it was quite an experience.  Then we entered Banff National Park; so many glaciers, so many interesting peaks, lakes, and landslides.  We had decided to drive right to Lake Louise: nice but way too crowded – definitely a destination for many travelers.  Then it took an hour to get through the line of campers at the only campground in town so we didn’t get set up until after 7 pm; we are looking out our windows at glaciers and mountains once again.  Life is going to be so dull after this trip.

On Sunday 08.23.09  we drove along AB 16 through fields and small towns with very few rest areas until we reached the KOA in Hinton; this is an excellent campground in a valley as we approach the Canadian Rockies.  We enjoyed the evening and settled in for a good night’s sleep but kept getting cold during the night; alas, we woke up to frost on the truck and it was like – 29 degrees! and the water in the hose was frozen; we had to turn on the pump to get water.  We almost decided that going into the Rockies might be a bad idea; but after talking with the campground manager he assured us that this event was quite unexpected and unusual; that the next few days would not be a repeat.  So we headed west, paid for two days to use the services in Jasper National Park and in 1 1/2 hours we dropped Cruiser in Wapiti Campground with electric; Whistler with full hookups was all booked.  After lunch at the campsite we drove back into Jasper to check out the visitor center and get tickets for the Maligne (pronounced ma lean –it’s French) Lake scenic cruise to Spirit Island; as we drove the 30 miles to the boat dock there were caribou alongside the road stopping traffic.  The views of Medicine Lake and Maligne River along the canyon road were exquisite; lakes without glacial silt just won’t be as beautiful.  So Spirit Island is really a peninsula now as the water is receding; the glaciers along the way, the mountains that surrounded us, the dolomite and sandstone… it was a very good 1 1/2hour cruise.   After the hour drive back into Jasper we had breakfast/dinner at Smitty’s, a good Canadian chain of family restaurants, before walking the two streets of t-shirts, jewelry stores, and restaurants.  We did see two Royal Mountaineer trains with their viewing cars pull in and out of the station, one heading east, the other west; and also a freight train.  It was a very good day, warm and sunny for the most part but now after sunset at 9:30 it is already 50 degrees.  Let’s see what tomorrow brings.

 

Our visit to Edmonton has been busy, busy.  We arrived Wednesday and took a trip into Stoney Creek to wash the truck; then we had a good dinner at Bings.  Thursday was our day in the city of 1 million: a walk through the park at the Alberta Museum for a view of the Saskatchewan River and bridges; a tour of the Legislature and grounds where the fountains were teeming with children enjoying the sunshine; an hour at the Military Museum; dinner and a walk through the West Edmonton Mall, the largest in the world, brought the day to a close as we strolled past 800 stores, Galaxyland, Deep Sea Adventure, Sea Life Caverns, a waterpark, an ice rink, aquariums, and 100 restaurants.  Be sure to check out the websites to see all there is to know about Edmonton.  We woke Friday to rain and thunderstorms so we relaxed and did household chores.  Fort Edmonton Park on a sunny Saturday for over six hours was a journey from an 1846 Hudson’s Bay Co. fur-trading fort, an 1885 settlement, a developing capital in 1905, to a 1920 business community. 

Tuesday 08.18.09

So we filled up with gas at $1.03/liter at Safeway in Dawson Creek, BC; first town in Alberta had gas for $0.99/liter.  As we drove along AB 43 the liter prices went up to $1.03; towns are closer and there are fields of canola; cattle, sheep, and deer ranches; four lane highway; and civilization:  Grande Prairie is a city of 50,000+ with traffic and intersections; 15’ beaver in Beaverlodge.  We are camped at the Valleyview City Campground with electric and water for $20; there are 12 sites and three are taken; we are accosted by hundreds of grasshoppers in the fields;  the sunset in the clouds is pink and purple after the rains earlier in the day.  On evenings like this we read, play Mexican dominoes, and get caught up on diary and paperwork.  We have a very good life.

Back to Dawson Creek; 67 days on the Alaska Highway and through out the paved road portion of Alaska; 5400 miles total.  Saw more deer as we traveled along this winding, curvy road.  After a trip to Pioneer Village and Safeway we prepare for the Alberta portion of 2009 summer travels.  There’s still just one highway to travel from town to town; this area of the continent is not overly populated.

Sunday 08.16.09

Uneventful day of driving down to Pink Mountain.  The roads are in good shape (still dusty) and the bridge repairs are almost completed.  Forgot to mention that our drive on Saturday from Muncho Lake to Fort Nelson included a large herd of wood bison, babies included; three moose; and several caribou (lost count).  They were right at the road and crossing the road, too.  Took pictures and video and hope to post some; Sunday was just a nice 160 mile drive along a deserted road; no wild animals; maybe we’ll see a bear in our campsite.  It has warmed up, too; woke up Sunday to the 60’s (well, it was 9 am) and wore shorts and sandals.  The days are shorter also; sunrise almost 7 am and sunset around 9:30 pm.  We are actually missing the long sunlit days; we don’t need the blackout curtains on the front windows. 

Saturday 08.15.09

We are enjoying a full hookup in Fort Nelson; wifi incuded.  The leaves are turning yellow; did I mention that before?  The sun is shining and we actually changed into shorts; of course, we know it will get into the 50’s tonight.  We don’t think we’ll make the 290 miles to Dawson Creek tomorrow; the roads are still slow with all the hills and curves.  “All those who hate speeding tickets raise your right foot” – great sign along the highway. 

Friday 08.14.09

Today we put up our sign at the signpost forest in Watson Lake, the last town in the Yukon, and downloaded email.  We are in British Columbia until we leave Dawson Creek six hundred miles down the road.  We drove to Muncho Lake and dry camped at the MacDonald Provincial Camp; the view was absolutely gorgeous; took lots of pictures and video; snacked for dinner; used propane heat; just cereal for breakfast and no coffee for Paul.  We will buy a generator before our travels in 2010.  The Yukon and Kluane is vast; this part of BC with the terminus of the Rocky Mountains, the beautiful green lakes, the winding roads and summit passes are unforgettable.  Paul did comment that he will not miss dusty roads, potholes in every turnout, and gravel tossed by every passing vehicle; Cruiser has lost some paint and truck has a few knicks; sure could have used mudflaps. 

Thursday 08.13.09

We are enjoying the Alaska Highway through the Yukon.  Even though the road is long and we may see another vehicle every fifteen minutes or so, the view is vast and expansive, changing at every curve in the road; I wonder what makes a ‘highway’ because this certainly is not like any highway in the lower 48.

 

Did I mention that we enjoy the Yukon?  The territory has a population of 32,000+, of which about 20,000 live in Whitehorse.  We’ve only been along the AK Hwy portion but it is very beautiful and the towns we have encountered are comfortable.  Whitehorse is the provincial capital; the government building exhibits include tapestries and a 120’ stained glass mural.  The museums include the Beringia Centre with fossils of wooly mammoths, scimitar cats, giant beavers, short-faced bears, sloths, horses, great movies, and more; the Old Log Church Museum; the MacBride Museum including Sam McGee’s 1899 cabin; the Transportation Museum; the Copperbelt Railway and Mining Museum; and the SS Klondike stern-wheeler.  The longest wooden fish ladder in the world; the suspension bridge across Miles Canyon; the Yukon Brewery; the log skyscraper; and the White Pass Train Depot are just a few other stops we toured.  We’ve had a couple days of rain and now there is a cold front making the evening quite cold: 4 degrees Celsius is about 46 degrees.  We will be following the AK Hwy back to Dawson Creek where we turn east for stops in Alberta.  One other note: the commercials on Canadian TV are really interesting as are the shows;  “This hour has 22 minutes” is a very good satire; the take on American politics is refreshing.  Be sure to check out the websites listed above when you are surfing; they have much more information.

Saturday 09.08.09

Stopped at Sheep Mountain Visitor Center which is off the AK Hwy now that the road construction is completed and the road is moved further east; new roads often bypass former stops but they do straighten the road a bit.  As we drove down to Haines Junction we realized how much we really like the Yukon; it is the most beautiful and scenic country, as we have commented to each other several times.  More road construction, more mud and oil splashed up on vehicles, more 10 mph.  We are in Whitehorse for a few days; we bypassed this on our way north in June.

Friday 09 07.09

As we drove through the Yukon today, the road construction is complete; that doesn’t mean the frost heaves and washboard road have disappeared but that they are fewer in number.  We stopped to see two missions, one a Quonset hut and the other a log cabin from the road crews of 1942.  As we passed Cottonwood RV Park on Kluane Lake Paul couldn’t resist; we are spending the night with a wonderful view of the fast moving lake, the mountains in the background, and the clouds hiding the sun; it is picture perfect.

Thursday 08.06.09

We picked up our mail today and said goodbye to gallon gas for a month as we begin the trek to Dawson Creek.  This is truly wilderness for a few weeks; the largest towns are in the hundreds; gas is expensive; showers cost; no cell phone use because of $.65/minute; wifi only occasionally; magnificent mountains; more wildlife; and much more.  The cold air above the fires is keeping the smoke all along this area; at times we see 200’ – 500’ ahead.  By the time we reached Beaver Creek, Yukon, we remembered frost heaves; truck and Cruiser are filthy, filthy; the woman who checked us through Canadian Customs even commented that it looked like we had hit every mud puddle; sure wish we had those mudflaps.

Wednesday 08.05.09

We started the day wondering why there was a traffic jam on both shoulders of the highway; well, a large male moose was grazing on the grasses and didn’t run off even with all the attention; pictures to follow; took a video also.  At Big Delta Bridge over the Tanana River there is an excellent view of the pipeline suspended over the river and river boat traffic; the pipeline has several turns to allow for changes in temperature and earth movement.  Then just down the road we stopped for lunch at Rika’s Roadhouse built in 1901 and used until the 1940’s when the road bypassed Rika’s.  At Delta Junction we took the obligatory pictures and spent some time at the Sullivan Roadhouse Museum.  We had planned to spend the night but the smoke was bad enough that we decided to drive the extra hundred miles down to Tok; at times visibility was barely 200’ but it did improve and we saw a blue sky and the Alaska Range. 

Need to get caught up!  We are in the last “big” city of Alaska, Fairbanks.  Today we went out to LARS, the Large Animal Research Station of the UAF, Univ. of Alaska at Fairbanks to see more musk ox and reindeer.  Are you all aware that reindeer are domesticated caribou?  Then we drove to Ester, to take pictures of the now closed Malamute Saloon and the Gold Camp Bunkhouse.  Paul had ordered mud flaps for truck and they were supposed to arrive yesterday or today; well, no luck; all we know is they’ve been shipped and are somewhere in transit.  Alas, we will get very dirty again driving back the Alaska Hwy.  We visited the second, and last Super Walmart in Alaska for groceries to last the two weeks it will take us to get to Dawson Creek; since we’ve been down that road we know the towns are small without many amenities.  This is probably the last place that gas will be under $3 for a long while.

Monday, we went to the UAF Museum of the North which includes a gallery of historical paintings – we’ve seen several by Sydney Laurence in other museums, the feature exhibit The Last Polar Bear – Facing the Truth of a Warming World, and the Gallery with a focus on the cultures, wildlife, geography, and history of Alaska’s five geographic regions which relates to the native cultures.  Blue Babe, the world’s only mummified Ice Age steppe bison mummy is encased as are the display of gold, walrus gut coats, and the like.  No museum would be complete without a history going back to the Russian occupation and missionary settlements.  The downtown area of Fairbanks began in 1901 when Barnette was dropped off with his supplies because the sternwheeler couldn’t travel any further up the Chena River.

Sunday, after a walk through Pioneer Park with historical displays and authentic cottages including Judge Wickersham’s home and the sternwheeler Young, we took a 3-hour Riverboat Discovery tour on the Chena River which included a bush pilot taking off and landing next to our boat, a stop at Susan Butcher’s Iditarod sled dog kennel area, a guided walking tour of a Chena Indian Village, guided by third and fourth generation Binkley family members and native Alaskans.  This was an excellent tour.

Saturday, after we settled into the Riverview campground in North Pole, we drove out to the Oil Pipeline Viewing and Info area along Steese Hwy.  The smoke in the area is very heavy.

Denali- we've had a great two days.