ALPINE LOOP: ENGINEER, OPHIR, AND CINNAMON PASSES
I learned the meaning of rock ledges only one-jeep width wide, with 600-foot drops and sheer rock walls to the sky, as our jeep navigated hairpin turns.
From
our Silverton, Colorado base, blankets tucked tight while riding shotgun in a rented jeep
with no side windows to filter dirt, we headed onto the Alpine Loop outside of Ouray.
Nineteenth-century miners, who carted their ore off to Silverton, Ouray, and Lake City in
mule-drawn wagons, first used these rocky roads that aren't much improved today.
The demanding Alpine Loop leaves pavement, crossing the remote, rugged and spectacular heart of the San Juan Mountains in Southwest Colorado. Rated 9.5 out of 10 for breath-taking scenery, 14,000-foot mountain peaks, glacial cirques, alpine lakes, forests and abandoned mining towns abound on the trail. Up an down, over and through woods of lush spruce, fir and aspen we relish the purple flowers, gentians, columbines, and yellow composites. In meadow streams, beavers hide in lodges as tall as a man. Plenty of playful two-striped squirrels (looking like chipmunks), marmots and picas boldly squeaked at our jeep while defending their turf.
Thinking this far-flung wilderness would be ours alone proved way wrong even on Monday as 40-50 jeeps vied to complete the famous 31-mile Loop. The entire loop is best done in 2-3 days to enjoy the scenery otherwise the ride is long and bone jarring. Considered a real accomplishment, tee shirts are sold locally naming passes with boxes to check off your conquest.
ENGINEER PASS
At 12,900 feet, altitude sickness (nausea, headache, lightheadedness) is a
real possibility. With Engineer Pass's cold howling winds, I made a fast trip out of the
Jeep to view Rocky peaks lined up like tin soldiers. I was reminded of Mt Everest
climber's resolve, hunkered down in flimsy tents coughing and freezing, driven only by
their need to be on top of the world.
Whitmore Falls shoots spectacularly through a narrow crack down a cliff. Climbing down a steep hill past the observation platform brought us to the Whitmore’s pool for a refreshing icy dip.
OPHIR PASS—11,750 feet
Ophir Pass road is a major off-road route connecting Silverton with Telluride and still
heavily used today for its scenic value. Old Ophir and New Ophir are contained in the
Howard Fork valley of the San Miguel River. The shelf road descending the west side of the
pass cuts across vivid yellow, orange and red slide rock that fills the northeastern rim
of the valley.
CINNAMON PASS---2, 640 feet
Cinnamon Pass road has some rough going and a few ledges but for the most part is easy. At
Cinnamon Pass, I scrambled up loose cinnamon colored screed tinkling like glass to find
quartz crystals in small dikes. Rocks warmed by the sun radiates blessed heat while
tourists in the open pullout suffer wind chill. Winter snow in these hills can get up to
30 feet deep. Coming off the Pass the trail finished in the interesting ghost town of
Animas Forks.
Ghost Towns
RED MOUNTAIN
Red Mountain is nestled among meadows and incredible red, yellow and orange ridges due to
abundant iron oxides. Severe winters and avalanches delayed the mining stampede where only
the hardiest stayed the winter. A storied pioneer woman opened her window, scrapped a pot
full of snow to boil water. I can't imagine being trapped inside any house all winter.
Vertical chimneys of ore contained an unbelievable 1,000 ounces of silver per ton. An estimated thirty million dollars in gold, silver, lead, zinc and copper was taken from the mines. Some old buildings remain but without roofs, everything returns to the ground. Even the jail's solid 2x6s laid flat for strength is crumbling.
MINERAL POINT
To attract interested parties, 1870 brochures depicted steam ships plying the Animas River
between Mineral point and Animas Forks. I know what a "challenge" that would be
even for inner tubes in this seasonal creek and swampy meadow! Remnants of a 15 stamp mill
and wood slat barrels silently await ore slurry mixed with mercury to separate out silver.
Sitting on an old wooden platform next to a ramshackle cabin, Jim found an 1890’s
leather boot sole with square-nail heads sticking out for traction—a hob-nailed boot.
ANIMAS FORKS
The
residents of Animas Forks regarded their community as permanent so built houses with
shingled roofs and gables. The magnificent two-story Duncan house with bay windows is an
example. Two houses even have indoor pit-toilets, one accommodating up to 5 people. All
these houses are open to the public although vandals long ago stole artifacts of value.
Animas Forks is well preserved thanks to volunteers from the Colorado Historical Society
doing roofing and structural repairs.
We ate lunch by Animas creek watching squirrels cautiously jerking from rock to rock before dashing for our pretzels and ham, leaving lettuce behind. I thought they were vegetarians.
Because of the smooth road, day-trippers from Silverton in ordinary cars come up to Animas Forks.
CARSON CITY
Today, little remains of the older buildings that stood just below the Continental Divide
watersheds. However, several of the newer buildings, those situated farther below and
north of the Divide are still in remarkably good condition like the long boarding house
used later as a miner's hospital. The buildings are at a scenic setting on the edge of a
large meadow with a dark background of thick evergreens. To the south is the rim of the
continental Divide, and to the north is a fine view of two “fourteeners” peaks.
Fortunately, this town-site is not subject to snow-slides, the destroyer of
ghost towns in this area.
The Rockies provide picturesque mountain scenery, paved and four-wheel drive roads for adventurers of all ages. Small towns like Lake City, provide quaint cabins for tourists or fishing and hunting crowds. Railroad and ghost town buffs are like kids in Toyland. This part of Colorado is abundant in antiquating, Native American goods, arts and craft shopping and rugged outdoor activities.
http://www.silverton.org/ghostjeep.html
Web page: jeancooke.virtualtourist.com
Write me: jeancooke@yahoo.com
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