October 24, 2002

2002 Vacation Trip to Belize

Belize is a diverse, peaceful, English speaking democracy. Situated on the northeastern tip of Central  America with more than 300 miles of Caribbean coastline, this former British colony is a trade crossroads between the Caribbean and Latin America.   A former British colony, Belize gained independence in 1981 and offers  U.S., U.K. and Canadian investors a familiar business environment  where English is the official language, and the political, economic, legal and educational systems are based on familiar British models.
Map of Central America & the Caribbean
Map of Belize
Read more about The Mopan River Resort
JUNGLES OF BELIZE
by Jean Cooke, Petaluma, CA
MOPAN RIVER RESORT
Across from Benque Viejo, the Mopan’s boat ferries guests across the river. At the Mopan, a new wedding chapel awaits a bride and groom. But we headed for the guest lounge for snacks and refreshments hosted by owners Pam and Jay. Mingling, socializing, gourmet meals and just plain relaxing are hallmarks of this special all inclusive resort. Other amenities include thatched roof riverside cabanas, swimming pool with waterfalls, and an observation tower to view the valley and birds: kingfishers, flycatchers, woodpeckers, toucans, parrots and flocks of herons.  To see more of the Mopan here is the link to their site, http://www.mopanriverresort.com/
CARACOL MAYA COMPLEX (300 B.C - 700 A.D.)
Jim & Alexi at the base of the Ceiba Tree the national tree of Belize Jim climbing main temple, work continues on the temple in the background
Art inspects the rubble on top of the main temple
Stone Carving found at the Caracol Maya Complex
After a flat tire and hours of driving over a jarring dirt road, we entered Chiquibul Forest Reserve and Caracol — a gem. Unlike Tikal with guards and tourists everywhere, Caracol is peaceful with few visitors and no locked gates.

Caracol was one of the Maya's greatest temple complexes. Enlarged after conquering Tikal, Caracol controlled the Maya world for 100 years. In order to live high above rivers; two huge plastered reservoirs served a Mayan population of 150,000 — today, Belize's total population is 200,000.

Climbing half exposed ruins, tree roots cling, pierce and pry apart ancient marvels as excavators fight the jungle for control. Several half completed plazas let us compare jumbled rocks next to reassembled staircases. We talked to a native Belizean archeology student doing fieldwork as he sprayed lime preservative onto an ancient stucco face. With archaic history everywhere, there is no school of archeology for him in Belize so he will travel to the US for an archeology degree.

The largest pyramid, Canaa (Sky Place), 140 feet tall, is the tallest man made structure in Belize. At the base, an irresistible inner pull beckoned me to Canaa’s top. Long ago off limits except for royalty and priests, I felt I reached heaven's gates high above expansive green jungles. Wandering and exploring other complexes, I came upon an old temple containing an amazing original zapote wood crossbeam dating to the 1st century AD.

Keeping us company, unseen Howler monkeys shattered the forest with howling and crashing branches. An oscillated turkey crossed our path. A chipmunk paused eating berries then flicked his tail and scampered away along branches jumping a wide gap between trees without a hair out of place.

MENNONITE WESTERN DAIRY
Touring Mennonite Western Dairy, we followed the milk's progress from weighting, cream analysis, pasteurization for bottling, or into ice cream or cheese. Light yellow cheddar cheese is cut into blocks, turned, salted then placed into the cooler for aging. A room smelling of ice cream contains a processing machine where different flavors are added to the cream then cooled to semi-solid consistence, poured into various sized containers and taken to a deep freeze. The dairy also boxes juices. The best part of the tour is tasting the ice cream!
BAT CAVE
Wearing long pants and DEET as protection from plants and ticks we followed Alexi, our guide, hacking his way into the jungle. We heard birds and skittering but saw no snakes or animals. Passing a banana plantation of sorts, the trail closed in further so we followed a dry creek bed for forty-five minutes. Climbing steep dirt steps, scaring bats and swallows, the yawning, jagged Bat Cave entrance materialized from the limestone hill. Scrambling on a thin rocky bridge, hopping over lopsided boulders, I caught up with Alexi as he disappeared into shadows.
Our powerful flashlights were puny in the huge main cavern bigger than a football field is wide and high. Mediocre stalactites and stalagmites are scattered by the sides. Seasonal downpours coat the floor with mud where no plants sprout in this fertile soil. A big spider guards the entrance and several scavenger black centipedes dance around my feet. I hate centipedes!

Discovered in the 1960's, looters took what they could leaving broken pottery. Several places in the cave showed evidence of fires, possibly from the Ancients. A small side room sparkled like stars with tiny crystals coating walls and floors. We were careful not to step or touch this treasure.

Crawling over rocks placed by the Ancients to keep non-believers away, we entered another cavernous room with mud caked floor. Hiking 1/2 mile, high in the ceiling, light from a pothole dappled fallen rocks on a miniature mountain. A wood slat rope ladder, more difficult to climb than it looks, tempted us to escape into fresh air and light. Alexi nudged us downhill into the dark retracing our steps as the easiest way back home.

Following Alexi like lemmings, we scrambled over a hill of mud and down a narrow descending tunnel. Humidity increased to 100% as we almost slid into a motionless pool. Blending into the water, tiny blindfish and shrimp darted this way and that. Returning uphill was hazardous with clay mud clinging to our shoes like anchors. This same mud probably made Mayan pots in this very cave. All too soon, we were on our way back to light and civilization.

Now well educated in Mayan history, flora and fauna, peoples and cities, my Belizean travel experience makes me want to return again and again. I am sure other travelers will find Belize a fascinating experience and the Mopan River Resort the best of the best. Mopan Special- $898.00 US for 7 nights per person double occupancy.

Web page: jeancooke.virtualtourist.com
Contact: jeancooke@yahoo.com