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Ellen's Story
by Ellen Balto Stenberg My parents were both born in Karasjok, Norway, I think they were about the same age. They were employed by the U.S. government to teach the Eskimos to herd reindeer and went to Unalakteet in about 1898. Sophie was born there March 24th, 1899. Anna was born in Karasjok but stayed with her grandparents in Norway and when she was a teenager about 17 came to this country. Later she and Sophie went to Nome to live and work there until Mary and Oscar came to the states. Alaska was a territory at that time. Early in 1900 our mother and father and Mary, Sophie moved to Nome. Before they went to Unalakleet they were in Seattle in the Woodland Park area for a while then were transferred to Port Townsend for a while then to Unalakleet. I was born
in Nome Alaska December 29th, 1904 on the Sand Spit. We lived
in a small cabin outside of Nome which was between the Bering Sea and
the Snake River.
It is close to Diomede Island owned by the U.S. and the larger one by
Russia. The
early Eskimos used to paddle their canoes or umiaks from Nome to the
Big Diomede. Our father's name was Anders Johannessen Balto and
our mother's name was
Marit Bitti. We had a sister also named Anna who died in Norway
at the age of four. Her
body was covered with boils. There were no doctors available
then.
Ellen's parents, Marit Biti and Lars
Anders Balto, and her sister Marit Balto, 1898 Our father
worked in a gold mine in Alaska. He was injured by a falling
bucket in the mine December 2nd, 1904 and died the next day.
Because of permafrost the body
could not be buried deep and when a tidal wave came years later the
graves were washed out
and his body was found. There was a write up of a dance hall girl
in a well known
magazine about her body being washed up and recognized. Mother had
to make her living washing clothes and cleaning. My oldest
sister Mary married Oscar Nilsen who was a straw boss for Jafet
Lindeberg in the gold mine
he owned. Mary took care of Sophie and me while mother
worked. Their cabin was close to
ours. Nome was a
drab town. I can't remember anything of beauty about it but
the mountain flowers I saw when we went on a train to pick some
blueberries on the tundra.
It was cold and windy in the winter and cool in the summer. The
sand in places was ruby red
and I liked to play in it. In winter the Snake River right at our
door froze over and young people
enjoyed the long winters skating and skiing. Ski jumping was a
popular sport and I
enjoyed watching it. The little There were
several Eskimo families living on the Sand Spit and their
living was communal. They thought nothing of taking things from
others. Someone gave my
mother a large packing box to use for kindling and Sophie and I asked
if we could play in it
and morn said o.k.. We were perturbed when an Eskimo walked off
with it. They used to look in
the windows. We enjoyed the Eskimo dances and they still carry on
the tradition. You
couldn't say where was a tune to the music. My mother
married Kasper Hauan February 9th, 1907. He was also a gold
miner. I have the miner's watch he used in the mines. He
played with me a lot and told me
years later that I was jealous of his attentions to mother and I would
take after him with a
fork. He thought it was cute but I was ashamed when I grew
up. One of my
favorites was Mary's brother-in-law Carl Nilsen. He remained
a bachelor all of his life. He played games with me and asked me
to sing for him. Mary and
Oscar named their son Carl after him. There was
a good kindergarten in Nome. We did basket weaving, coloring
and marched around by phonograph music. The governor of
Washington State visited
Nome and was surprised at the high standard of the schools there.
The high school
was fully accredited. Our cabin
was next door to the cold storage where the rood supplies for
the entire area of Nome were kept. I borrowed a book from our
local bookmobile and was to
find such a detailed description of Nome and the cold storage
plans. It cost so much to ship
supplies to Nome yet supplies were plentiful. Tom who managed the
cold storage plant gave us many things since my mother was a widow with
two dependent children. It was the height of the gold rush and
people felt "steaky." Tom gave us a turkey for Thanksgiving and
sister Mary prepared it and made the best dressing. When we moved
to the states in 1910, we called it moving "outside" and the states
were slowly recovering from the Panic of 1907 but there was gold in
Nome so everyone could sit down to three meals a day. People
cared about their widows and children. Mother could work but kind
neighbors gave us things to supplement what she made. One
Christmas I was given a doll house and a doll dressed in blue and a
teddy bear. We were given so much candy at Christmas Sophie
became very ill. I can remember my mother taking the pail of
candy and tossing it into the Snake River. Sophie had no middle
name so she was Sophie Candy Balto because of her yen for candy.
Ellen, second from left, and her
sisters Sophie, far left, Marit, second from right, and Anna, far
right. 1941. When
Sophie was ten years old mother left me in her care when she
worked. I am convinced the Lord had his angels watching over
us. One of Sophie's favorite sports was to stand on a coal oil
can and let the waves wash around her. One day she fell into the
water and was soaked to the hide. She hung her long johns behind
the stove to dry and when mother came home from work and spotted them
she gave Sophie a good paddling. The storm shed was the place for
paddling. I remember one morning when Morn went to work she
warned Sophie not to go for a boat ride. Morn just got out of
sight when Sophie rounded up Zara and Bunny Vallier and me and took us
out in Uncle Balto's boat which he kept at the edge of the Snake
River. We were having a good time until we got into a current and
went into a whirl. Bunny and I being very small thought it was a
lot of fun but not Sophie and Zara. A man rushed out in a motor
boat and saved us. Sophie never took the boat out again. Christmas
was a gala time for the kids in Nome. There was no contact with
the outside in the winter time. The last boats left in
October. Mail was brought in by dog team which was very
slow. This is one reason the people made so much of the
holidays. The kids were thrilled when Santa Claus drove in with
real live reindeer and we thought it was for real. I found out
years later how difficult it was to train the reindeer. Our
friend Rad Wilson told me about an article in the Saturday Evening Post about Nome,
written by Klondy Nelson, "I was a daughter of the Gold Rush." In
it she told about Mike Nilluka being Santa Claus. We knew him
from
Kingston. I sang a solo at the program. I was shy
later. The people
loved parades and band music. The fourth of July was always a big
day. Flags were flying everywhere and there were floats.
The Lomen brothers who were everything in Nome and the photographers
took pictures of all the parades. My favorite band number was
"Columbia the Gem of the Ocean." Helen
Lomen was my Sunday school teacher and I loved her. Helen gave me
some lovely clothes. One of them was a blue jumper trimmed in
velvet and there were silver stripes in the blue. Helen later
married Volstead, famous for the Volstead Act (prohibition).
Helen's brother wrote the book Fifty
Years in Alaska which is the best book I have read about the
Nome area. Uncle Balto was mentioned in the book. Gold was
found on the beach of Nome in 1898 and it sparked one of the greatest
gold rushes in history. I remember seeing men pan for gold in the
creeks. There was so much claim jumping, consequently many lawyers
rushed for Nome. Liquor flowed freely and there was much fighting
in the cabins. Water was
scarce and we had to buy our water by the pail from the waterman who
delivered by horse and buggy. I met Mr. Deyette in
Shelton who had been a waterman in Nome. He was glad to quit and come
to Shelton. One of the most outstanding experiences I had in Nome was viewing the Haley's Comet in 1910. It will not appear again until 1987. There was great expectation among all the people of Nome when it was to appear. Some superstitious ones thought that if the tail of the comet touched the earth all would be blown up. Mary told me all about that tale. It was a marvelous sight, this star with the long tail. It was a good clear evening and visibility was excellent. We saw it over our cabin. I was told that it was not seen as clearly in the states as it was up north. The midnight sun could be seen at Sledge Island not far from Nome. Sophie and Mary went to see it but I was a small fry and wasn't asked to go along. I was
thrilled when sister Mary told me the stork would soon bring her a
baby. I hoped it would be a girl and it was. She was named
Elfrida Charlotte and Mary showed me the basket she came in. I
thought it was quite a load for a stork. Mary
served at a dinner in Nome for the famous explorer Roald Amundson while
he was in Nome. She met Fritdjof Nansen also. Our uncle
Samuel Balto was with him on his trip to Greenland. I have the
medal he received from the King of Norway, Sweden and Denmark. He
had two other medals but one was lost and the other stolen. He
fell into the temptation of drink while in Nome but years later he was
converted in a skid row mission in Seattle near the old court
house. He was a changed man and he was also healed of the dreaded
cedar Some of the Nome people I remember: The LeFarges who ran the cold storage who left for the outside before we did. Mr. LaFarges was later employed by the Black Ball Company and his name was on the ferry tickets. Mrs. LaFarge gave mother the lovliest pink tea set before she left Nome. The Taggers family ran the cold storage after the LeFarges left. Their son was the same age as Sophie. I happened to meet Van at a birthday party years later. Some of
the Nome people who made a stake there went into business in
Seattle. We made a trip to the outside, as we called it, to
the State of Washington when I was
three years old and stayed with Grandpa Kasper's mother and father at
Apple Tree Point until we returned to Alaska. We also went to
Eglon where Kasper had some acreage where he later had a house built
that he lived in when he returned from Nome. To get onto the
steamboat we had to go out on a barge and I was scared stiff. We
came out on the Umatilla which later sank. Sophie came down with
measles the first day and they quarantined me even though I had the
measles before we left Nome. We had to take a steamboat at Coleman Dock
in Seattle to go to Eglon and there we would be met by a row
boat. No one came to meet us so we had to go to Hansville for the
night. A most hospitable man by the name of Anton Husbys put us
up for the night. Sophie So many
people have asked me how Eglon was named. Some asked if it was an
egg ranch. I was told a few of the first settlers opened the
Bible and it happened to fall on the page about the wicked King Eglon,
but whether that is authentic or not I am not certain. We had a
lovely place with a good view of the water and later Grandpa Kasper
made a stairway to the beach. It was a wonderful place to swim
and dig clams. When the tide was real low we could get
geoducks. Years later Grandpa Kasper and Ike built a large smoke
house on the beach and bought big salmon from the commercial fishermen
to smoke. Ike sold some to the meat market in Bremerton during
the depression. The place was sold to developers in the late
1960s and is called Sunrise Acres. Some of
the early settlers in Eglon were Hanah Bevens and her family, Mrs.
Dannat and her family, and Marie Halvorsen and her family. They
were sisters. Hanah Bevens taught Sunday school in her home and we sat
around her large kitchen table. The closest doctors were in
Seattle or Edmonds and all traveling was by steamboat to Seattle or by
motor boat to Edmonds. Hanah was the community's nurse and she
dressed the dead for burial. The hearse then was horse and buggy
and the service was held in the old school house. The first one
buried in Eglon My mother
kept company with a sea captain Krantz before she married Kasper in
Nome. Captain Krantz gave me a lovely white fox fur, and many
years later I asked mother what had happened to the fur. She told
me that when she refused to marry him he took the fur back.
Before that I asked her why she didn't marry him and she became
angry. I thought we would have had a more prosperous life with a
sea captain than a stump rancher. Captain Krantz was well known
in shipping circles. When we
arrived in Eglon in October 1910 on the last boat from Nome I was
thrilled with the beauty of the Maple leaves that were yellow and
golden. The air was so crisp and it was not as cold as
Alaska. We stayed in a small cabin and tent for a while until a
house could be built. Grandpa Kasper had a small strawberry patch
and Sophie and I ate strawberries until we broke out in hives because
of the lack of iron in our bodies. Kasper picked up a lot of
lumber on the beach and built his barn and chicken houses out of lumber
that came in the drift. Ruby At
Christmas we had a large Christmas tree in the schoolhouse and our
neighbor Captain Conradi was Santa Claus. The gifts were tied to
the tree, all that could be. I remember Frieda's recitation so
well, "Everywhere everywhere Christmas tonight." Oscar and
Mary's daughter Marion was born in Nome, I believe in March 1912.
She died in December 1916 as a result of pneumonia after whooping
cough. Oscar was in Seattle looking for work and Mary had a
difficult time locating him but somehow arrangements could be made for
the burial. Hanah Johnson took care of preparations and she was
dressed in her favorite white dress. I was heart broken as I
loved her so much. She would ask for Grandma's potatoes and white
"gwavy" as she called it. Her favorite song was Rock of
Ages. She would sing it, My second
sister, also named Anna was born in Karasjok in September 1897 and came
to the U.S. at the age of about seventeen. She and Sophie went to
Nome for a few years after she arrived. When she returned she
worked in a well known cafe in Seattle. After quitting the job in
the cafe she worked in the home of Chris F. Moe who owned the Whiz Fish
Company. I later took care of their two boys when Anna got
married. She met Ole Nelson from Seamer, Norway and married
him. They lived two blocks from where the Space Needle is
now. That area was a large vacant lot then. Ole Nelson was
an old friend of the other Sophie came down with the dreaded Spanish influenza in 1918. I remember telling her that I wished she would not go to Seattle as she would probably get the flu. When I saw her off the steamboat looking so pale I thought this is it. Mother took such good care of her keeping the fire going day and night in the old wood heater. I was so worried. She lay there so quiet. It took her a long time to recover. Two of her friends in Poulsbo died of the flu. Anne Tornensis and Margaret died the same week. One on Monday and the other the following Saturday. Some members of their family are still living in Poulsbo. I married
Isaac Stenberg February 12th, 1927. He was born in Boden, Sweden,
August 19th (Jan 13th?), 1900. He came from Sweden during WWI on
a Norwegian ocean liner. He said it was the liner that brought
the flu to the U.S. Several people died on the boat and their
bodies were put in canvas bags and they were buried in the ocean.
No one in Eglon died of the flu. Anna had a milder case of it. Notes by Ellen's daughter, Elaine
Hepner Unfortunately,
Morn did not write anything about her Sami background. She and her
sister Sophie were
teased and let know that they were
"second class citizens" by the other Scandinavians in the
community. Actually only a few did this but I think she remembers
it way out of proportion, so as a result, she and Sophie kept their
background a well-guarded secret from their children. It was only
about 25 years ago that I found out from May and her sisters and
brothers. I was just reading again the story that Morn
wrote. I don't think she mentioned anything about Balto, the dog
that was made famous from the dog race to Nome in 1925 to deliver the
diphtheria medicine. The lead dog, Balto, was named after Morn's
uncle Samuel Balto. There is a statue of the dog in Central Park
in New York City. My
grandmother Marit Balto (Hauan) had a soft-covered hymn book that she
kept on a stand in the "front" room, as they called it. She would
pick up the hymn book and sing to herself and anyone else who was
listening. She had a profound influence on me in my formative
years as we spent a lot of time living there from about 3 - 6 years (for
me). I was 11 when she died. |
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