Revised August 9, 2008
Hiked 1986, 1987, 2008
Mike spent
hours studying the park map after he and
Aimee first visited the Porkies in 1984. At that time, they had
established the
feasibility of completing a day hike in the ten to fifteen mile range.
Mike decided there were two possible circle or loop hikes in that
distance
range, with two others as "long shots." After completing the first
possibility
in 1985, a loop of the North Mirror Lake, Correction Line, and Big Carp
River Trails, a loop encompassing the Cross and Little Carp River
Trails
with short connecting segments along other trails followed in
September,
1986. Mike so heartily enjoyed this trip that he and Aimee repeated
it with his brother Mark on Memorial Day weekend, 1987. Aimee, for her
part, regretted not paying attention to Mike's plans for the Memorial
Day weekend repeat hike, which she would have declined. She did
decline the next repeat over 20 years later which Mike and his daughter
Maria completed on August 4, 2008.
With the new more precise trail distances in recent park maps and trail
signs, it is still estimated that the hike covers a distance of about
13 miles; however, the exact distance is is not certain because three
of the "official" sources contradict one another regarding the distance
along the Little Carp River Trail from the Cross Trail to the
rivermouth at Lake Superior. The official trail guide says 6.0
miles, while the sign at the Lake Superior end says 6 1/2 miles to the
Greenstone Falls cabin, and
the sign at the Cross Trail end says 4.9 miles. Mike was wearing
a pedometer on the 2008 hike and assuming the other segment distances
are correct (see bottom) and his average step length did not vary
throughout the hike, his step count of 12,200 on this segment
translates to 5.6 miles. Adding that distance to the last 0.8
miles to the road, the 2:22 time from the lake back to the road
translates to 2.51 miles per hour which seems consistent.
In 1986, it was the first hike we
took in the Porkies that did not begin in the M-107 / Lake of the
Clouds area. Instead, we followed South Boundary Road about 15 or 20
miles to unpaved Little Carp River
Road. The road ends after 1/2 mile or so at a parking area. Access
trails
extended in both directions; we took the trail to the left (west)
heading
towards the Greenstone Falls cabin. In about 1/2 mile, we merged with
the
main Little Carp River Trail near the vicinity of Greenstone Falls.
Roughly 1/2 mile later, the Cross Trail turned right and moderately
climbed a hill for a short distance.
By 2001 when Mike and Maria hiked a segment in the eastbound direction,
the access trails had been reconfigured. Hikers traveling in
either direction on the trail first cross the river on a road bridge at
the very end of the parking area. At this point, hikers traveling
eastbound toward Lily Pond continue walking straight past a motor
vehicle gate onto a woods road while hikers traveling westbound toward
Lake Superior, as we were doing in 2008, turn left immediately after
crossing the bridge onto a foot trail along the stream. The old
westbound access trail may continue to exist as a signed "Trail to
Overlooked Falls" on the opposite side of the stream, but we did not
hike this so we cannot verify it for certain. Consider this
"Reroute #1" encountered in 2008.
Having taken three trips over the entire five mile length of the
Cross Trail, Mike finds it difficult to remember anything memorable
about it. In dry weather it is very passable, but after wet
weather be advised that a mile or so into the trail, there is an
somewhat
muddy section -- one of us actually had a hiking shoe pulled off and
stuck in the mud, right at one of the few points in the entire park
where
poison ivy grew. We thought the troubles with mud were ending when
we saw a clearing ahead -- it turned out to be a swamp! The
current park map actually shows a graphic of a swampy area there.
As for the poison ivy, in 2008 it was almost difficult to avoid over a
stretch of about 1/4 mile in that muddy section just before the swamp
clearing. Mike does not remember seeing poison ivy growing
anywhere else in the park -- only along this short stretch of the Cross
Trail. It is one of the most lush stands of poison ivy that he's
ever seen!
The swamp was quite dry in 2008 with the narrow footpath nearly
completely obscured by waist high vegetation (thankfully no poison ivy
there). The remainder of the trail
seems to be dry in most years and quite passable, with the only other
detail of note being the Toledo Creek stream crossing about halfway
along the trail. The
creek barely flowed during dry times.
You can tell you're coming to the end of the Cross Trail when you
approach the Big Carp River in a valley below it. In the 1980s, it
ended at the Big Carp River Trail which had just crossed the river,
about 1/2 mile upstream from Lake Superior, but it appeared to have a
different routing on the 2008 hike as it continued all the way past a
cabin to the Lake Superior Trail. (Consider this "Reroute
#2.") The Big Carp River Trail also
ends there as this is the point where the river flows into Lake
Superior.
A wooden footbridge takes the Lake Superior Trail east toward M-107; we
turned left (west) toward Presque Isle.
The segment of the Lake Superior Trail between the Big and Little Carp
Rivers was listed as one mile in the older park trail guides, but Mike
never believed this, as it was more
like 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 miles. (You notice such things after hiking 6 1/2
miles with as many to go.) The more precise distance given in current
guides is 1.3 miles. There are beaches (usually not for swimming
- but on one occasion we saw quite a few swimmers on what was the
hottest summer day of 2005!) at
both
rivermouths which are good places to stop for lunch. On the earlier
hikes mainly prior to 2000, we occasionally saw
other hikers or campers in this area, but not often. On the more
recent hikes especially those taken at the height of the summer
vacation season in early August of 2005 and 2008, nearly every cabin in
this vicinity was occupied and nearly every campsite was in use.
(In addition to
the three trips along this route, we have visited this general area via
other
trails on at least six other occasions.)
Mike's favorite hike in the Porkies was the 5 1/2 mile segment of the
Little Carp River Trail completing the loop back to the Cross Trail
intersection as it used to be routed during the 1980s hikes. It didn't
have the one breathtaking vista that
Escarpment Trail has with Lake of the Clouds, rather, it had a
continual series
of waterfalls and stream crossings. You had to hike it -- you couldn't
just drive to it like Lake of the Clouds overlook -- and that also
made
it special. In its older routing, the trail followed the river over
this entire segment,
usually
along its banks and rarely more than a few dozen feet inland. Because
it
followed the river valley, it was not a difficult hike in the sense of
climbing
hills. Although it gained 500 to 600 ft of elevation, the slope was
extremely
gradual and constant over 5 1/2 miles so you didn't notice it. The park
map shows three named waterfalls -- Traders, near the rivermouth,
followed
by Explorers and Trappers, about two miles upstream -- but there are
numerous
small falls and rapids.
This brings us to the "Final Reroute" of the 2008 hike.
Admittedly one challenge of the older routing was the fact that the
trail kept crossing the river back and forth. The park map
showed two stream crossings
along the 5 1/2 mile segment. Not true -- there were nearly
a dozen if Mike's memory serves him correctly! With the exception of
a large log bridge on the original routing of the access trail from the
road, all required a bit
of nimbleness to cross stepping stones or balance on narrow logs. Aimee
especially disliked one narrow log which spanned a mini-gorge, perhaps
five to ten feet above the rocky stream. At the time, Mike suggested
wading the
shallow stream for such crossings.
Nowadays, it's no longer an issue as the multiple stream crossings
appear to be a thing of the past. Hiking from the lake back to
the road. the trail follows the northeast bank (opposite the Pinkerton
Creek Trail) for about a mile, switches across to the southwest bank in
the vicinity of Memengwa Creek, then switches back to the northeast
bank about a mile later. That's all. Yes, it's easier not
having to figure out how to step your way across without getting your
feet wet every ten minutes or so, but the tradeoff is having to climb
up and down more small hills (not really that hard) and also having
more of a feeling of separation from the stream itself. To Mike,
that was a big part of what made this hike seem so special along the
old routing. It still is a pleasant hike and an interesting hike,
just less so than before in his opinion. If you enjoy hiking, you
will not be disappointed by this trail or any other major trail in the
Porkies.
Once the Cross Trail intersection is reached, apparently at the top of
a small rise instead of the bottom where it used to be when the Little
Carp River Trail followed the stream more closely, you can return to
the
parking area on Little Carp River Road by doubling back on the initial
0.8 mile segment on Little Carp River Trail and on the road access side
trail.
One thing to remember: The entire park is a great place to be
during the various berry seasons, especially raspberry and thimbleberry
seasons. On the segment of the Cross Trail beneath the first
vista overlooking the Big Carp River but before the Big Carp cabins,
Mike and Maria spent five or ten minutes stopped in a big stand of
thimbleberries which were just starting to ripen on August 4,
2008. Finally they had to agree that there would be no more
stopping to eat thimbleberries until after lunch. For the first
time in memory, they didn't even bother to eat the chocolate bars they
had packed for a late in the hike snack - because they were so full
from eating thimbleberries along both the Cross and Little Carp River
Trails!

She and Dad completed the same hike of the Cross and Little Carp River
Trails on this afternoon.
It was interesting to see how much had changed since Mike had last
hiked these segments in 1987. This stream crossing was not one of
the changes.
This was one of the cabins
located near the mouth of
the Big Carp River at Lake Superior. We were day hiking and didn't
actually stay at the cabin, but Aimee posed in front of it for a photo
in 1986.
At this point, we were close to halfway done with the 13-mile hike, and
we stopped for lunch along the lakeshore at the rivermouth.
On the August, 2008 hike, Mike and Maria stopped to talk with a family
that was spending the night in this cabin. In fact, just about
all the cabins along these trails were in use that day, as well as most
of the tent campsites.
The Big Carp River flows into
Lake Superior on a
beautiful September, 1986 day. Unlike Lake of the Clouds overlook,
which is
accessible by car, the only way to see this in person is to hike at
least 4 1/2 miles -- we had done six.
This is the view looking
upstream on the Big Carp
River from the Lake Superior shore during our 1986 hike. The wooden
bridge visible in the
photo carries the Lake Superior Trail across the river. The large rock
at the right (west) end of the bridge has a USGS benchmark embedded in
it, which Mike found thrilling.
Thimbleberries in various stages of ripeness characterized many
stretches of the Cross and Little Carp River Trails in early August,
2008. At one point, Mike and Maria had to make an agreement that
they would not stop to pick any more thimbleberries before lunch -- or
they might never have gotten out of the woods! Later they
declined the candy bar snacks they had packed because they were too
full of berries!
Once again, like mother, like daughter!
But there were some major differences on our 2008 hike. The trail
map still shows two stream crossings -- and this time there really were
exactly two stream crossings and no more. Perhaps that is why
Maria found them more likable than her mother had 22 years
before. Here she is making the first crossing about one mile
upstream from Lake Superior. "The more things change, the more
they stay the same..."
Here's the second and final stepping stone stream
crossing
as we headed upstream on the Little Carp River Trail in August,
2008.
This is about two miles upstream from the mouth of the river at Lake
Superior.
Mike and Maria did not find the stream crossings to be too taxing, at
least under the relatively dry conditions of this hike. The
situation might be quite different after a heavy rain during a time of
high water.
This is the view in August, 2008 overlooking the
Greenstone Falls vicinity from the new routing of the Little Carp River
Trail just prior to its junction with the Cross Trail. The
revised routing provides more vistas and overlooks but also more up and
down hiking over small hills.
22 years later, the access trail has been rerouted so Maria and Mike
did not have an opportunity to see if there were any remains of this
log bridge. Perhaps it can still be found along the side trail to
Overlooked Falls but we did not walk that way.