The Anonymous Andalusian Cookbook dates from the 13th century and is so called because the author unknown. The most available edition is translated into English from the original Arabic by Charles Perry, with additional notes by various SCAdians (commenting mostly on Miranda's sometimes faulty Spanish translation), and available in hard copy in the Cookbook Collection compiled by Duke Cariadoc and Elizabeth Cook.
I decided to count all the spices, herbs, and other seasonings and flavorings, to see which were used, to get some idea of the frequency of use, and to what seasonings were used in combination. This took some time, and i have a lacuna here and there. None the less, below are the basics, as they currently stand. I will put together information on spice combinations at a later date.
In looking through the book, it appears that the recipes had been culled from a number of other sources, based on the wording of recipes in different sections. It is possible that some of this could be due to the translator, but i suspect this is not the case. Thus the recipes in different chapters not only are worded differently but stress different seasonings.
There were 345 recipes in the first 8 chapters. I skipped the sweets and beverages because counting their seasonings would skew the count - having so much more sweetening, and a particular subset of spices.
What I Counted Spices Herbs Roses Allia Sweetening Agents Souring Agents Nuts & Seeds Other I was surprised that the only sweeteners in the Andalusian cookbook were sugar and honey and that they were used in almost equal amounts. In al-Baghdadi there is a wider range of sweeteners and sugar is used three times as often as honey.
There was also a much more limited range of souring agents in the Andalusian, being primarily vinegar. Given the amount of wine grown and drunk in the area even in Muslim times, this would have been wine vinegar. While i am not certain if it would have been red or white, an essay on food within the Andalusian cookbook mentions white vinegar made of sweet grapes, so i assume white wine vinegar would be most suitable.
There is a wider range of nuts in the Andalusian than in al-Baghdadi. While almonds dominate in both cuisines, in al-Andalus the second most commonly used are pine nuts, which do not appear in al-Baghdadi at all. Chestnuts show up in a few Andalusian recipes. And the safflower and indigo colored pistachios are unique.
I was surprised that citrus products, other than citron leave, were so little used, especially when compared to al-Baghdadi. I am guessing either that both oranges and lemons were not yet well established in Andalusia at the time this book was written or that authors of the cookbooks from which the recipes were taken had little or no access to citrus fruits.
Among the Andalusian herbs are rue, lavender, and basil, which don't appear in al-Baghdadi at all, and a great deal more fennel. Surprisingly, galangal shows up in al-Andalus, whereas it is not mentioned in al-Baghdadi - i say surprisingly, because it was imported from Southeast Asia and i wonder why to Andalusia and not to Mesopotamia.
Ultimately, most of the major spices other than pepper and cinnamon were locally grown. These include coriander, saffron, cumin, caraway, and mustard.
| SPICES | Number of recipes |
Percent of total recipes |
Comments |
| Pepper Corns | 252 | 73% | Piper nigrum, Piperaceae |
| Coriander seed | 142 | 41% | Coriandrum sativum, Umbelliferae |
| Cinnamon | 129 | 37.5% | probably Ceylon or True Cinnamon Cinnamomum zeylanicum, Lauraceae See Note Below |
| Saffron | 86 | 25% | Crocus sativus, Iridaceae |
| Cumin | 59 | 17% | Cuminum cyminum, Umbelliferae |
| Chinese Cinnamon | 52 | 15% | Used along with cinnamon 26 times Cinnamomum cassia, Lauraceae See Note Below |
| Caraway | 46 | 13% | Carum carvi, Umbelliferae |
| Ginger | 28 | 8% | Zingiber officinale, Zingiberaceae |
| Spikenard | 24 | 7% | Nardostachys jatamansi, Valerianaceae also called sunbul hindi |
| Cloves | 20 | 6% | Syzygium aromaticum, Myrtaceae |
| Galangal / Galingale | 14 | 4% | Alpinia galanga, Zingiberaceae Greater galanga See Note Below |
| Mustard | 8 | 2% | White Mustard: Sinapis alba / Brassica hirta, Cruciferae Black Mustard: Brassica nigra, Cruciferae See Note Below |
| Anise Seed | 1 | 0.29% | Pimpinella anisum, Umbelliferae |
| Cardamom (Green) | 1 | 0.29% | Elettaria cardamomum, Zingiberaceae |
| Celery Seed | 1 | 0.29% | Apium graveolens, Umbelliferae |
| Long Pepper | 1 | 0.29% | Piper longum, Piperaceae See Note Below |
| Nigella | 1 | 0.29% | Nigella sativa, Ranunculaceae See Note Below |
| Nutmeg | 1 | 0.29% | Myristica fragrans, Myristicaceae See Note Below |
Cinnamon: There are two kinds of cinnamon. True or Ceylon cinnamon comes in thin, light brown, multiply curled quills, amazingly fragrant and complexly flavored. Cassia or Chinese cinnamon is what most Americans think is cinnamon, as it is what is in the cans and jars in supermarkets. It has thick, dark brown, singly curled quills with a simpler and coarser flavor than Ceylon cinnamon. | |||
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NOTE: Will the real galangal please stand up? Galangal/Galingale is a rhizome and a relative of ginger and turmeric, but tastes like neither. It is sold in Southeast Asian markets and is commonly used in Thai and Indonesian cooking. There are a number of related rhizomes in Southeast Asia. Of these three are sometimes confused by non-Southeast Asians: | |||
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Nigella (Nigella sativa L.) are VERY black, somewhat pyramidal seeds from a plant related to the common garden flower Love-in-a-Mist. While the name for this spice in some Indian languages is kalonji, they are sold in some Indian markets as "black cumin" or "black caraway", even though it isn't related to either cumin or caraway, doesn't taste like either, and doesn't even look in the slightest like them. Or as "black onion seed", because apparently they look somewhat like onion seeds. Nigella seeds are commonly used in Afghani bread. | |||
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| HERBS | Number of recipes | Percent of total recipes | Comments |
| Cilantro / Green Coriander | 140 | 41% | Coriandrum sativum, Umbelliferae |
| Rue | 71 | 21% | Ruta graveolens, Rutaceae |
| Zaatar / Saatar / Thyme | 70 | 20% | This is an herb, and not the blend of ingredients commonly available. In actuality, a number of different, often related herbs are used, varying regionally. It may refer to Turkish oregano, Syrian oregano, or Greek oregano (but not the stronger Mexican oregano), calamint, thyme, savory, or hyssop. I use a blend of thyme and marjoram, because the flavor of commonly available oregano is too strong. |
| Lavender | 52 | 15% | Lavandula angustifolia or Lavendula officinalis, Lamiaceae are common varieties, but there are numerous other varieties, such as L. stoechas (Spanish lavender) |
| Citron Leaves | 48 | 14% | and lemon leaves 1 Citron: Citrus medica, Rutaceae |
| Fennel Stalks | 41 | 12% | Foeniculum vulgare, Umbelliferae |
| Mint | 34 | 10% | Spearmint: Mentha Spicata, Lamiaceae Spearmint is that kind used in Morocco today. I would suggest using it, rather than peppermint. Peppermint: Mentha piperita, Lamiaceae Peppermint is often called "English mint" in languages other than English, and is a hybrid of spearmint and water mint. |
| Celery Leaves | 5 | 1.5% | Apium graveolens, Umbelliferae |
| Basil | 4 | 1.2% | clove basil is specified 3 times Ocimum basilicum, Lamiaceae |
| Dill | 2 | 0.58% | Anethum graveolens, Umbelliferae |
| Bee Balm | 1 | 0.29% | Melissa officinalis (aka lemon balm) It is NOT Bergamot mint, Monarda didyma, which is a New World plant |
| Purslane | 1 | 0.29% | Portulaca various, Caryophylleae, as there are quite a few that grow in Europe, the Near East and Asia. Perhaps the most common is Portulaca oleracea, Garden, or Green Purslane |
For more information on spices and herbs, visit Gernot Katzer's wonderful, fabulous, amazing website. | |||
| ALLIA | Number of recipes | Percent of total recipes | Comments |
| Onion | 150 | % | NOT FULLY COUNTED! |
| Garlic | 51 | % | NOT FULLY COUNTED! |
| ROSE PRODUCTS | Number of recipes | Percent of total recipes | Comments |
| Rosewater | 30 | 8.9% | |
| Rose syrup | 6 | 1.7% | |
| Rose petal jam | 4 | 1.2% | |
| SWEETENERS | Number of recipes | Percent of total recipes | Comments |
| Cane Sugar | 40 | 11.6% | Any of six to thirty-seven species (depending on taxonomic system) of tall perennial grasses of the genus Saccharum (family Poaceae). All sugar cane species interbreed, and the major commercial cultivars are complex hybrids. If the sugar you buy does not say "cane sugar", it is likely beet sugar, or possibly a blend of beet and cane sugar. While for most purposes this doesn't matter, it actually does make a difference in confectionary. |
| Honey | 38 | 11% | |
| Scented Sweet Syrup | 1 | 0.29% | the scent or flavor was not specified |
| SOURING AGENTS | Number of recipes | Percent of total recipes | Comments |
| Vinegar | 119 | 35% | most often made from white wine. |
| Pomegranate juice | 3 | 0.9% | Punica granatum (L.) or Punica malus (Linn.), Lythraceae |
| Lemon juice | 2 | 0.58% | Lemon: Citrus medica ssp. limonum, Rutaceae bitter or Seville orange: Citrus aurantium ssp. amara, Rutaceae |
| Quince juice | 2 | 0.58% | Cydonia oblonga (Mill.) or Pyrus Cydonia (Linn.), Maloideae or Spiraeoideae, Rosaceae |
| Grape juice, sour | 2 | 0.58% | Vitis, many species, most likely vinifera. |
| Apple juice, sour | 1 | 0.29% | Malus domesticus, Maloideae, Rosaceae |
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| MURRI | Number of recipes | Percent of total recipes | Comments |
| Murri | 190 | 55% | total mentions |
| Murri naqi | 64 | ||
| Good Murri | 3 | ||
| The Best Murri | 1 | ||
| Bread Murri | 2 | ||
| Seasoned Murri | 2 | ||
| Fish Murri | 2 | ||
| Murri Notes Noted Near and Middle Eastern food scholar and LA Times columnist, Charles Perry made murri from scratch, beginning with moist barley "loaves". In the end he said it tasted like soy sauce. He documented this in his column in the LA Times in 1998. ----- What Rot! - January 14, 1998 (89 words) ----- Still Rotting - February 18, 1998 (169 words) ----- O. K., It's Rotted, Is It Safe? - April 1, 1998 (228 words) ----- Rot of Ages - April 1, 1998 (1411 words) A number of recipes specifically said not to use fake murri. There is a recipe for Byzantine murri, which is also called fake murri, which is often used by SCAdians. However, a soy sauce with a high wheat content may be a reasonable substitute for murri. | |||
| NUTS & SEEDS | Number of recipes | Percent of total recipes | Comments |
| almonds | 110 | 32% | |
| walnuts | 35 | 10% | |
| pine nuts | 31 | 9% | |
| pistachios | 17 | 5% | |
| chestnuts | 3 | 0.9% | |
| hazel nuts | 1 | 0.29% | |
| nuts type unspecified used along with almonds | 1 | ||
| nuts type unspecified used instead of almonds | 1 | ||
| pistachios colored with safflower and indigo | 1 | ||
| OTHER | Number of recipes | Percent of total recipes | Comments |
| Musk | 8 | 2.3% | comes from glands of the Asian musk deer |
| Camphor | 5 | 1.5% | Cinnamomum camphora, Lauraceae |
| Gum Mastic | 3 | 0.87% | Pistacia lentiscus var. chia, Anacardiaceae From what i have been able to find, the tre that produces mastice grows only on the Eastern Mediterranean island of Chios. |
Conclusion - A Basic Andalusian Spice Box | |
Soooo...
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Sample the Spicebox of al-Baghdadi Compare the Spiceboxes of al-Baghdadi and Andalusia
Step through the doorway back to the Front Hall Directory to Dar Anahita |
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Questions? Comments? Corrections?
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