I will be updating this page, but i wanted to get this up after a discussion on an e-list about Ottoman men's clothing.
|Note the rider in the front in white - he appears to be wearing only his gomlek over his shalver. It appears to be quite soft.||Note how these men are dressed - clearly not of the elite.
Note also their soft gomleks with somewhat wide sleeves.
And note further that they wear soft yellow leather "boot socks" with red shoes over them.
|First off, these are male dancers, since women were forbidden by law to dance in public. Each is wearing standard clothing - gomlek, shalvar, and entari - with the addition of a long full dance skirt, and in many cases an additional short full skirt.|
They are displayed here primarily for their gomleks, which are clearly made of soft material. I point out that the gomleks have somewhat wide sleeves, even on men. This is noticeable in several other of the pictures here.
These first three pictures are from the manuscript known as the Codex Vindobonensis no. 8626. It was painted between 1586 and 1591 by an unknown south German artist in the entourage of Bartolemeo di Pezzana, ambassador of the Holy Roman Emperor Rudolph II to the Sublime Porte. It is now in the Austrian National Library, in Vienna.
|This fourth is from a 17th century picture book, painted by an Ottoman painter, which is known as Rålamb dräktbok, acquired in Constantinople in 1657-58 by Claes Rålamb who led a Swedish embassy to the Sublime Porte, and arrived in the Library in 1886. The call number is Cod.Rål. 8:o nr 10.||A Janissary walking a mastiff|
Note his sheer gomlek, and that he wears his entari tucked up into his sash.
I point these out as they were issues under discussion - the idea that men's gomleks were lined and opaque and the idea that only women wore their entaris tucked up.