27 December 2005


At 5 o'clock sharp in the morning, the alarm went off. Well, actually Norma woke us just a minute or so before the alarm would have gone off. Then began the last frantic minutes, trying to make sure that we had not forgotten anything important. As a matter of fact, because it was in the refrigerator we nearly did forget David's entire insulin supply!

Then we had to get everything into the rented Camry: 5 large suitcases, one medium U-Haul box (with 35 snakes inside it!), a carry-on bag of maximum size, a carry-on backpack, and, of course, kitty Katom in his traveling cage. It had taken several attempts to get his tranquilizer pill down his throat.

So, off we went, feeling rather packed into the car, with kitty frequently meowing his protest as he looked out of his cage on daddy David's lap. We had intended to leave at 5:30, but it was more like 5:45 or 5:50 before we actually pulled out of the driveway.

Luckily, traffic was quite light almost all of the way, and we arrived at our first destination, the APHIS office of the USDA near the Los Angeles airport, just shortly after 7:30 a.m. We needed their signature and official stamp on the document from the veterinarian, certifying the all the snakes were healthy. This is where we hit our first snag. The man at the office informed me that ALL of the vets were over at the airport inspecting a shipment of horses that had just arrived that morning. He said that they weren't expected back for 2 hours. Since our flight was scheduled for 12:10, we were supposed to be checking in at the airport by 9:10 (3 hours before the flight), and we still needed to turn our rental car in. First, we hoped that the vets might return sooner. We drove a short distance, got something to drink, went to the bathroom, gave some tsedakah, and returned to the APHIS office. The vets were still not back. So we had to go return the car and get to the airport.

Before we could check the box in with the snakes in it, we needed the veterinary form, so I hailed a taxi and headed back to the APHIS office. This time, we were in luck. The vets had returned, the document was signed and sealed, and I hopped back into the waiting taxi and got back to the airport. The taxi cost was a little more than the cost of the permit.

Now we were, of course, flying El Al, the safest airline in the world. The down side is that they check EVERYTHING. They had to paw through all of our suitcases and carry-ons, and they had to open the snake box and see that there really were snakes in there and that there was nothing hazardous with them. Before they even finished going through our carry-ons (David's contained almost nothing besides his medicines, which they had to check carefully) they sent us scurrying through security to the gate and onto the airplane, Before the plane left the gate, they brought our carry-ons to us as we sat in our seats!

The flight left a little late, but it went fairly uneventfully, though perhaps a bit more turbulent than usual. I had completely forgotten to order vegetarian meals, but, at least on the first leg (from LA to Toronto), they managed to scrounge a couple for us. On the second leg, we just took the tray without any entree at all. I think I actually slept quite a bit more on both legs than I usually can.

28 December 2005


Upon our arrival in Israel, a volunteer from AACI (the Association of Americans and Canadians in Israel) met us as we disembarked. She guided us through the arrival process so graciously. What a wonderful greeting! The Misrad Klitah (absorption office) at the airport was seriously under-staffed, since most of their personnel were over at the old terminal, preparing to receive the Nefesh B'Nefesh flight that was scheduled to arrive full of olim chadashim (new immigrants) from New York just an hour or so after our arrival. Nevertheless, they did manage to process us through, including giving us our first sal klitah (absorption basket) payment in cash: 1250 shekels (about $267) for each of us. During the time we were in their office, they were also processing 6 other people from 3 different families, all from France. Despite my weak French, I was actually able to be of some small assistance by coming up with the French word for "rights".

Then we went down to claim our baggage. So much time (over 2 hours) had passed since we arrived that our baggage had been taken off of the carousel and placed on the floor nearby. Everything seemed okay except that our cat, Katom, was nowhere to be seen! We finally located him in the lost-and-found area, and he seemed fine despite his long ordeal. So we packed all of our things onto 2 carts and wheeled them out to the area where the taxi would pick us up. One of the rights of olim chadashim is to receive a free taxi ride to anywhere they choose in Israel!

It took a bit longer than usual for them to find a taxi big enough for us and all of our things, but eventually one was located, and we started on our way. By now, it was somewhere around 8:00 p.m., and, of course, we were quite tired. Still, we were glad to finally be on our way. Gradually, it became apparent to me that our young Russian taxi driver, who spoke essentially no English, did not really know where, exactly, Tsfat was! Not only would I have to direct him to our house, I would first have to direct him to Tsfat, all in Hebrew! Fortunately, I did know the way quite well, and the only Hebrew words I had to know were "yashar" (straight), "smolah" (left), and "yaminah" (right). The only part that made me slightly nervous is that I knew, from experience last summer, that following highway 65 through Afula could be just a bit tricky. Luckily, I was able to find the way with no problem. Just another of the many ironies of Israel: an American ole chadash (new immigrant) directing a Russian/Israeli to Tsfat, in Hebrew!

When we were not too far from Tsfat, I called Zion, our builder, using the driver's cell phone, and arranged for him to meet us near the spot in Tsfat where we would leave the main road and go towards our house. When we got to our house, we quickly unloaded our stuff and got it into the house. Since the heat was not yet installed (and most of the faucets, drains, and toilets were also not yet working!), Zion had arranged for us to spend the night in a room in the basement of his mother's house on the other side of town. Since I wasn't sure exactly what the arrangements would be, we decided to leave Katom in his cage in the house. So he and the snakes spent the first night in our new house without us!

29 December 2005


Tsfat feels very cold at this time of year, although the temperatures have actually been well above freezing. So by Thursday afternoon Zion got a kerosene heater for us, with a good supply of kerosene, so that we could at least heat our bedroom in the new house. He also got some additional plumbing working for us. Besides all this, he got us connected with the best furniture store in town, so that we could get some essentials. We ended up spending $4000 (!) on a bed (actually 2 very basic twin beds that we put next to each other, since this seemed cheaper than getting a single fancier bed for 2), a refrigerator, a microwave oven, a washer, a dryer, a blender/food processor combo, an MP3-capable CD and radio boom box, and several small appliances, all of which they were able to deliver the same day! A representative from the cable company (HOT, that's its name, believe it or not!) came out and got us signed up for cable, which is actually a cheaper as well as quicker way to get telephone and high-speed internet services. She was really better at English than she gave herself credit for. So David got considerably more than the new house for his 50th birthday, which was actually that very day (December 29)!

30 December 2005


On Friday morning, we walked to the market (probably a bit more than a mile away) and back in order to get a few more groceries. In the afternoon, I got a call from the ISP who will actually be providing the cable internet connection. He's got us signed up for high-speed access over the cable as soon as it is installed.

31 December 2005


I had found out from our neighbor, who is an Ashkenazi rabbi from Southern California, that Shabbat morning services at the nearest synagogue (Sephardi) would begin at 7:40 a.m. So we got up in time (not so difficult, since we're not quite fully on Israeli time yet and tend to wake up early anyway), and headed down there. With some minimal help from a couple of guys sitting near us, we were able to follow quite a bit of the service, including the Torah reading. The only familiar melody, though, was "Ma oz tsur", although they were singing some other words, which I think might have been from a psalm. It was just a bit surrealistic hearing a bunch of Sephardim lustily singing what is essentially a German chorale!

The Torah scrolls were in exquisitely beautiful cases in the Sephardi style. The cases are hard and open up on hinges. The scrolls remain in the cases and are read in a vertical position. The trope is different from Ashkenazi trope. There is no gabai, but when the reader had any trouble (which wasn't very often at all, by the way), a whole chorus of voices would rise up from the congregation to help him get it right. If I'm not mistaken, I think that they read the entire parashah for this week. Although it may not become our regular congregation, this will not be the last time that we attend services there.

The weather on Shabbat (December 31) was mostly overcast, but the sun did shine some, and it did not seem particularly gray in general. There was a fairly good breeze, though, so it was still quite chilly out, even in the late morning.

On Shabbat morning, we looked out our bedroom window and noticed, for the first time, that someone about a quarter of a mile northwest of us has several horses. There's a black one, a bay, and at least 3 buckskins.

1 January 2006


On Sunday morning, we planned to go into town to run several errands and to help David get a little better orientation to downtown Tsfat. Zion called us and said that he would be coming by and could take us to town, so we rode in with him.

The first stop was Zion's office so that I could check my e-mail on his computer. I spent most of the time deleting junk and semi-junk mail. I only sent out one brief e-mail, to Norma, so that she would know that we're okay.

We stopped at a pet store and bought some food and kitty litter for Katom. We were relieved that they offered free delivery in the evening (accomplished very nicely except for some very understandable complications due to an almost complete lack of street signs and the fact that the "street" really doesn't quite get to our house yet!).

At Bank HaPoalim we had to open a different account than the one that I opened last summer, since I now am an oleh instead of a tourist. However, although he could reserve a number for the account, he couldn't actually open it, since we don't have our teudat zehut (identity card) yet. We tried to get them last week, but misrad hapnim (the ministry of the interior) told us that we couldn't get them for 2 weeks, something which I think is not actually correct. Also, I think the ladies at the misrad klitah (absorption ministry) at the airport forget to give us our copies of the papers we signed there. I'll see if I can get AACI (the Association of Americans and Canadians in Israel) or NBN (Nefesh B'Nefesh) to help us sort all of this out tomorrow on the phone.

We checked out most of the downtown area of Tsfat and bought several other items that we needed. We ended up at the little market, where we bought more groceries and a few more kitchen items. Then we waited for a taxi to take us back home. I'm not sure that the one we took was actually the one that I called (using a number that Zion had given me), but his price was not the minimum price that we had learned from our neighbor, Mordecai, we should be able to get. Still, we were too tired to care that much, and so we bit the bullet and got back home.

Meanwhile, the HOT representative (HOT, as you recall, is the cable company) called and said that they could not accept a non-Israeli credit card. Since we couldn't open an Israeli bank account without our teudot zehut, we seemed to be in a bind. Finally, she said that we could pay cash for 6 months in advance (about 1485 shekels, which is just over $300). I used the ATM to withdraw enough money from one of my U.S. accounts to be able to do this. Later she called and said that even cash was not good enough to get the telephone. So, we'll just get the cable and the internet, the latter of which is really the whole reason for all of this anyway. With the internet, we can do VoIP (voice over internet protocol), using some service like Skype, to call the U.S. She will come out to get the cash tomorrow, and then the installation can be scheduled, probably later this week.

The electricity to our house is still jerry-rigged, with both Mordecai and us getting power from a single cable running from the house of a nearby-neighbor (it's metered separately so that the neighbor does not end up paying, too!). This means that we really don't have much power; even a pot to warm water could cut off the electricity to both us and Mordecai. Now, Mordecai and Naomi, his wife, will be leaving tomorrow for a 2 or 3 week visit in the U.S., so that will ease the situation slightly, but we still will certainly not be able to operate any major electrical appliances, including the heater/AC (which still hasn't been installed yet anyway!). So we continue to heat and even cook using only a kerosene heater. Quite a trick! Still, the warmed, canned beans and fried potatoes and onions tasted quite delicious. It's a little like camping with the important differences that we have a roof over our heads and the room is reasonably warm. Zion says that it will be 7-10 days until we get the proper electrical hook-up, so I'm hoping it will all be ready within 2 weeks. I wouldn't bet too much on it, though.

2 January 2006


Today, they began work on the railings for the stairs. They set up the vertical support posts and measured, but now they have to go back and actually make the railings themselves, so it will be several days, at least, before they can finish the installation.

Yasmin, the cable representative, came out and collected the money today. She said the cable installers will be here tomorrow morning. With a lot of luck, we MAY have cable (but no TV, so we can't even be sure that it will work) and, most importantly, an internet connection.

David & I walked over to the nearest drug store and market to get a few items today. We also stopped and had falafel at a stand there, and it was the best meal we've had since we arrived in Israel. It was of comparable quality to the falafel that I ate nearly every day last summer at the University of Haifa!

They installed the tiles on the wall behind the kitchen sink today. They look very nice.

Zion says that the AC units will be installed on Thursday, that the bathroom sinks will be installed tomorrow, and that the railings, including those for the stairs and those on the balconies, will be installed soon. I think the electricity will be the biggest delaying factor, but, who knows?

3 January 2006


The kerosene heater barely worked last night. It sputtered and sputtered all night and finally went out entirely at about 5:00 a.m. Luckily, we kept fairly warm under the blanket and slept reasonably well.

We decided today to get our own kerosene heater, figuring that it could serve as backup heating even when we do have all the electricity working properly. But we had to wait for all the various installers, so we couldn't leave in the morning. By the time I left to go into town to buy the heater, it was about 2:00. I went by myself because David needed to wait here for the cable installers. More on that later...   :-)

I took a taxi into town, but when I got to the store it was closed. The taxi driver said it might open again at 4:00, so I figured I'd just wander around town for a couple of hours. I found another grocery store that had some different items from the 2 grocery stores that we already knew about, and I also found a nice produce store. Most of the stores were closed, though. Many will probably open again later for the evening. When I went back to the appliance store just after 4:00, it was still not open. I hung around for another half hour, thinking it might open by 4:30 (there was no sign at all telling their hours of business). Finally, I asked a guy in another shop, across the street, and he said that they don't open at all on Tuesday evenings! So my whole trip into town was basically a waste, other than a few items I bought at the grocery stores.

When I called the taxi driver who had taken me into town (he's also the one that Mordecai recommended as having the best rate), he was out of town as he had told me he might be. So I decided to take the bus, which actually turned out to be very easy and very cheap. So I learned how to get between our house and downtown quickly, easily, and cheaply! The cheap taxi rate is 12.50 shekels per trip, while the bus costs only 3.80 shekels. Of course, two can travel as cheaply as one in the taxi but must pay twice for the bus. Still, this means that both of us can travel to town for 7.60 shekels each way, which is still cheaper than 12.50 shekels. So we'll probably only use the taxi when we're in a hurry or have so much to carry that we want door-to-door service. The bus stop is maybe a quarter of a mile or so from the house.

Meanwhile, back at the house, the cable installers finally arrived. So, it's a good thing that David stayed there. They got everything hooked up, but I they had no directions for connecting a Mac. I finally connected with user support, they found a problem on their end, and they fixed it. So, now I'm connected to the internet at home!!!! Hurray!!!!!!!

4 January 2006


This morning, we went in first thing to buy ourselves a kerosene heater (Zion's heater sputtered out at about 4:00 a.m. this morning!). We traveled into town together by bus, which means that we got to see some parts of Tsfat that neither of us had seen before. While we were there, we also got: a TV, a dishwasher, a kitchen stove, a dinette set with a table and 4 chairs, 2 more chairs, a matching couch and love seat, a deep frier (for falafel!), and a crock pot (slow cooker). All of this cost just slightly over $3000 (after some good discounts that Meir gave us), which we paid partly from David's B of A account and partly on my Visa card. Isn't the world an amazingly small place!

We did some grocery shopping and returned home by bus, so that we'd be here by the time our things were delivered. After that, we walked over to the grocery store in the center called Sha'arei Tsfat (Gates of Tsfat), where we had the same really delicious falafel that we had had yesterday. We had planned to take the bus from there into town, but after waiting a while, we decided just to walk. It's downhill most of the way, and it really was quite a nice walk. The other way would be QUITE another matter! We walked over to the 3rd grocery store, the one that I had found yesterday (it's called Supermart Rav Chesed) and bought quite a few items. Then we just called Asher, the taxi driver, to pick us up and take us home, since we had 6 bags of groceries.

I called today and made a dental appointment tomorrow for David in Tsfat. He has a tooth that has been aching quite a bit since before we even left California. Our lawyer's brother, Alan, is a dentist in Haifa in the same building where our lawyer, Scott's, office is, so we'll travel there tomorrow by bus. It should be a GREAT adventure! I checked the bus company website and found that the buses leave about every half hour and that the fare is 34 shekels per person. Then, of course, we'll have to pay the local fare in Haifa, which I know is 5.50 shekels per person per trip. Since $1.00 = 4.5 shekels (approximately), these are very reasonable fares (I'm sure they're subsidized by the government).

5 January 2006


Last night, just about the time we were going to bed, the electricity went out. We were basically done using it for the day, and the new kerosene heater was providing adequate light in the bedroom. I really should have called Zion right away, but for some stupid reason, I decided to wait until morning. So we had to get ready to go to Haifa by flashlight. Besides that, we had lit the heater so early in the evening and not stopped it, filled the tank, and re-lit it later that it burned out before morning. So it was also rather cold in the house.

Anyway, we managed to leave the house by about 6:30 and got to Haifa way early. All the bus connections worked out fine, and there really were, thankfully, no surprises there. We were in the dentist's office a little before 9:30, although our appointment was for 10:45. The dentist actually took David in a little early. He fixed one obvious problem (something that needed to be glued back in place) and sent him to another location down the road for complete x-rays so that he would be able to see any others problems that there might be. We got a hard copy of the x-ray, and Alan, the dentist, will receive his by e-mail. After he looks at that, he'll call us, and we can decide together what steps need to be taken next.

After getting the x-ray, we took the bus up to the University of Haifa, and I took David to eat falafel at the Cafe Deshe, a little stand run by the students association and subsidized by the University. Last summer, I had falafel there nearly every day for lunch. The guy who makes the falafel got to know me quite well, and he immediately recognized me today, 5 months later! The falafel was absolutely delicious, as always, and I introduced him to David, too.

After that, we made the bus trip home: a local bus in Haifa, the intercity bus to Tsfat, and a local Tsfat bus out to near our house. We got home a little before 4:00 I think.

This evening, we had beans with kosher parve (neither dairy nor meat) wieners heated on top of the kerosene heater, corn shnitzels (also kosher parve), toast with jam, milk, and a chocolate bar. So we're certainly not starving! We also took a few minutes to see what channels we can get on the cable TV.

6 January 2006


We kept nice and toasty warm last night with our kerosene heater, and we both slept quite well. I think we're just about past our jet lag now.

When we opened the blinds this morning, there was a whole herd of cows just across the street. A little later, the man who walks his dog by here each morning came by, and apparently the dog spooked the cattle a bit. They went running on down the road, and it was at that point that we saw that one had a calf with her. He was so cute!

We went into town this morning on the bus. Our first goal was to order gas service. We went to the PazGas office to do this. The woman working there spoke English quite well, and the process turned out to be fairly simple and not too expensive. They will come out to install it next Monday morning. We will get 2 small tanks. When one becomes empty, we switch to the other and order a refilled tank. While we were in town, we got some new shoes for David, some fuzzy slippers for each of us, some gourd seeds, a challah (for Shabbat), and some additional groceries. Just as we were getting ready to head home, Zion happened to stop by and gave us a ride.

I see that I forgot to mention some of yesterday's news. The cabinet people came while we were in Haifa and installed some very lovely kitchen cabinets of high quality. Also, the railing people came back and welded the railings along the stairs to the vertical posts that they had set up earlier. The welding, though, is of rather poor quality, so more work will have to be done in order for it to be acceptable.

7 January 2006


We had planned to so to services again this Shabbat, but David was too exhausted, so we just stayed home. We did go for a walk later in the morning, exploring an area not far from here where we had not gone before.

A trio of horses walked by on the dirt road in front of our house at one point today. It's so wonderful to see them and the cows, just running loose in the area!

The new kerosene heater that we bought just a few days ago is now giving us trouble. We'll probably have to clean the wick. We tried this afternoon but without much success. It looks like it's going to be a very cold night for us tonight. Darn!

8 January 2006


Well, the heater worked well enough to keep us from being too cold, but it was still pretty chilly this morning.

We ate breakfast and caught the bus into town. We went to Zion's office, but no one was there yet. Fortunately, the sun was shining, so we basked for a few minutes until Molly, Zion's sister who works in his office, arrived. Zion has promised that Molly would accompany us to the Interior Ministry Office to help us get our teudot zehut (our Israeli identity cards). She also needed to go to the same office for herself, so she was quite happy to accompany us and to help us. On the way, we stopped by the post office (which is near their office) and got the ball rolling on getting our snail mail. But about that time it began to rain, and we had not brought our umbrellas. Fortunately, a friend of hers was there with his car, and he gave us a ride down to Misrad HaPnim (the office of the interior). It was a good thing that Molly was with us, because things got typically complicated. We needed copies of several documents, but fortunately there was a shop nearby where we could get them. While we were there, we also noticed that they sold watch batteries, so we got batteries for David's insulin pump. Finally, everything seemed to be in order, and the man said our teudot zehut would be mailed to us (at Zion's office) in about a week.

Then we went downstairs in the same building to the supermarket. This one is MUCH larger than any of the others that we've seen in Tsfat, and it's better organized, too. So we did some good shopping, including buying an electric heater! We had way too much stuff to carry on the bus with just 2 of us (Molly had already left), and, besides, the bus that goes near our house doesn't go by this market, so we'd have to ride 2 different busses. So we called Asher, the taxi driver. He arrived there very quickly, helped us load all our groceries into the trunk, and brought us right home quickly. That was very nice!

The electric heater is good. It's not powerful enough to warm a whole room, but it does helped to take the chill off, and it can keep us quite warm if we put it right by our feet as we sit on the couch. Later, it will help to keep the bedroom from being too cold during the night. This evening, we watched parts of several movies on TV, including one about a gay boy and his boyfriend in a British high school and their struggles with closet issues. It was really quite well done, but we don't know the title, since we missed the beginning of it.

9 January 2006


We waited all morning for the installer from the gas company (Pazgaz) to come. Finally, just before noon, I called the office to see what was up. Eventually, I managed to talk to the same person that we had talked to and paid when we ordered the service. She apologized for the overbooking and said that the installer would be here in about an hour. He actually arrived just before 2;00 (not so surprising, because "an hour" here almost always means "about 2 hours"). The installer didn't speak English, but he went about his work quite efficiently, which included drilling a small hole in the concrete wall. He got it all set up but informed me (I managed enough Hebrew to communicate a little with him) that the gas tanks themselves would be delivered later, about 5:00. Sure enough, they were, and we were able to cook on the stove top for the first time! Yay!

Although it was sunny and clear early in the morning, it was drizzly and rainy much of the day. We didn't go anywhere. In the evening, we watched Mary Poppins on TV, a movie which I somehow had never seen before. It was quite enjoyable.

10 & 11 January 2006


Well, here it is, the evening of the 11th here in Israel, and I still haven't written the update for the 10th. So I'll just combine them.

Actually, the weather has been rainy and cold both days. On Tuesday the 10th, we went out, but the only thing we actually got done was to pay 12.5 shekels each at the post office (that's less than $3) for our first 6 months of health insurance.

On the 11th, we got much more done. We started out at Misrad HaKlitah (the ministry of absorption) office here in Tsfat, where, after waiting for quite a while we met our counselor, Emma. Unfortunately, she speaks very little English. The main reason that we were there was to turn in a form so that our sal klitah (absorption basket) payments can be deposited directly into our bank account. We had set up a single account for both of us at the bank, but she told us that we have to have a different account for each teudat oleh (immigrant certificate), so, since we each have our own teudat oleh, we must have separate accounts. She really did try to work around this problem, even calling the main office in Jerusalem, who didn't answer for quite some time, to find our what could be done. They weren't able to do anything, so we trekked on over to the bank and opened another account. We needed to go to that bank building anyway, because, on a lower floor of the same building, we needed to go to the office of kupat cholim macabi (Maccabee Sick Fund), the HMO that we chose to enroll in. Luckily, Malkah, the woman there who enrolled us, spoke English quite fluently, so that went quite smoothly, and now we have our health plan cards.

After that, we walked over to the shuk (the open-air market) that only happens on Wednesdays. This was our first visit to the shuk, and we were quite impressed. We saw more different vegetables and fruits than we had seen in all the markets we have visited in Tsfat (4 of them!). We bought bananas, apples, fennel, giant radishes, orange and yellow bell peppers, cucumbers, a piece of a very large yellow-fleshed squash, garlics, carrots, and yams. Then we headed for the nearby bus stop to wait for the bus.

And we waited and waited and waited. It was quite cold, but at least there was a shelter with a dry bench to sit on. And the young man who sat down just to my left was very easy on the eyes, too! Finally, the bus arrived, but it was already quite full of people, and by this time there were quite a few of us waiting to get on, too. We all squeezed in, but just barely. Of course we were standing and also packed in like sardines. There were lots of young people, so I presume that some schools must have just let out a few minutes before. But we made it safe and sound to our bus stop and got off and walked the rest of the way home without incident.

Today, there was heavy fog in Tsfat all day. So it felt even colder than it was. I don't think the temperature even got to 50˚F (10˚C) today. Nevertheless, despite the wintry weather, we saw quite a few flowers blooming all around town. The wet weather, unfortunately, causes the dirt road to our house to turn to mud. Luckily, there are LOTS of little rocks and gravel, but we still do get our shoes pretty muddy by the time we get home. We now take them off just inside the door and wear the cozy slippers that we bought last week.

Shortly after we got back from our crowded bus ride, I got a call from Zion, our builder, telling me that our teudot zehut (identity cards) were ready for us at Misrad HaPnim (the interior ministry office). He had done some calling, or we might not have gotten them for a week or two still. You see, he's a native of Tsfat, so just about everybody in town knows who he is!

Despite all the produce that we had gotten at the shuk, we still had many things on our market list that we needed to get. Since the best supermarket that we have discovered so far is in the same building as Misrad HaPnim, we decided to go into town again in the afternoon, pick up our teudot zehut, and do some grocery shopping. So that's what we did. Our bus, #4, doesn't go to that part of town, but it's not too long a walk from the nearest bus stop, and it's downhill all the way. Luckily, almost no one was at the office when we got there, and our teudot zehut were waiting for us, so that went exceptionally well. Then we went downstairs, visiting the hardware store first and then the market. We bought lots of stuff, so we'll have plenty of good food to eat for several days or even a week or two.

The number of different kinds of frozen vegetarian fake meats here is quite astounding, even at the smaller grocery stores. There are several shnitzels that are made of soy, or corn, or vegetables, or some combination of these, all in a kind of breaded patty. There are also fake chicken steaks, fake sausage patties, and fake wieners, both long and very short. All of them are certified kosher pareve (that is, they can be eaten with either a milk or a meat meal). Since we're both vegetarians, these are WONDERFUL for us, and they're very tasty, too!

With so many groceries to carry, we, of course, called our faithful taxi driver, Asher, who showed up quite promptly and took us home. What a great guy he is!

12 January 2006


This morning Emma, from the absorption office, called. This time, she had a translator to speak to us in English. They gave us the details about our ulpan (intensive Hebrew language study). Unfortunately, there are not currently enough students to start an ulpan in Tsfat, so we will have to travel to Karmiel for our ulpan. This is a bus ride of about 40 minutes from the central bus station in Tsfat, but, of course, we have to take the local bus (#4) to get to the central bus station. All in all, we will probably have to leave the house between 6:00 and 6:30 in the morning in order to get to ulpan, which begins at 8:00 and goes to 12:30. Oh well! It IS very important for us both to learn Hebrew.

We went into town today and did several things. First, we made the last payment (I hope!) needed to get our electrical connections to the electric company. Still, we won't actually GET the connection until next week sometime (this after paying a total of something like $1700!). Anyway, whenever we DO get connected it will be most welcome. This morning, the electricity went out, and Zion had to come over to get it going again. Then, this afternoon, they had to come over again to get it going. The guy instructed us this time to use only one major electrical appliance at a time. So, if we want to use the hot water pot (for tea), or the toaster, or the hot water heater (for a shower or bath), or the microwave, or the oven, we have to turn off the electric heater. Oh well! It should be less than a week now until we get a proper electrical hook-up.

Another task we needed to do in town was to open our accounts at the bank. We were not able to do this before because we didn't have our identity cards. Now that we have them, we went in and actually opened the accounts (they had only reserved the account NUMBERS for us before). The amount of paper work and the number of signatures to open a bank account here is amazing! We must have been in the bank at LEAST an hour (or maybe more!), just opening 2 simple accounts. Anyway, Meir, the bank guy (who is originally also from the U.S.) did finally get us all set up, and we deposited a bit of money into each of our accounts. While I was there, I also managed to get enough cash at the ATM out of 2 different U.S. credit union accounts of mine to complete the payment for the electrical hook-up.

I also got over to the post office only a few minutes before they closed to pick up out post office box keys. Mail is not actually delivered to our house here but instead to a kiosk of post office boxes right by the bus stop where we usually catch the bus. So, we FINALLY have our official postal address here in Israel:

Arlan Wareham
David Fyffe
P.O. Box 8571
Tsfat, ISRAEL

or, for those of you who know Hebrew and whose computers can display it also:

ארלן וורהם
דויד פייף
ת. ד. 8517
צפת, ישראל

I had asked Molly before I left Zion's (and Molly's) office if there would be a charge for the keys, and she said that there should not be. She also said I should call her if they DID try to charge me. Well, they DID! So I called her and she had me put Shimon, the guy at the post office, on the line. According to David, who was sitting in her office during the conversation, she really balled him out (in Hebrew, of course, so David didn't know EXACTLY what she was saying, but he did catch something about olim chadashim, new immigrants!). Shimon gave me the keys after that without charging me the 33 shekels that he had initially told me I would have to pay. By the way, if you did send us any mail at any previous address that I might have given out, it will PROBABLY still get to us, since our names should be tied to this address. Still, this IS Isarel, so, who knows?

The last thing that we needed to do in town was to pick up a crock pot that Meir (a different Meir), the one at the appliance and furniture store, had included in our last purchase but which had not been in stock at the time. We went over there, picked it up, and called Asher to pick us up and take us home, both because the crock pot box was quite large and also because it was raining.

In fact, it was raining or at least drizzling all morning with fairly heavy fog, as well. By afternoon, it cleared some, but I think it's only a lull in the storm. The bad weather is still supposed to continue for several more days, from what I have heard. There was even a prediction of snow possible for tomorrow, but locals seem to doubt that it will actually snow this time.

13 January 2006


This morning we got up and were actually able to take a nice, much-appreciated, hot shower! Then, after a good breakfast, we went into town to get some things before Shabbat.

We got a couple of nice challot (braided bread for Shabbat) at our favorite bakery, got a few other miscellaneous supplies for the house and some milk, and headed back home. The bus back was a little crowded, but at least we did both get seats.

When we got home, they were busily working to get the sinks installed in our upstairs bathrooms. Kitty Katom stayed in the bed under the blanket all day, which he actually does quite often. Today, though, was particularly scary, with strange voices, and loud, frightening noises. But just as he had hoped, no one even noticed the strange lump in the bed! :-)

Today started out nice and mostly sunny, although it later got overcast and threatened to rain. I don't think it actually rained much, if any, right here at our house, though I did hear a bit of thunder late in the afternoon and even saw a flash of lightening out of the corner of my eye.

Just before Shabbat started, I swept the whole house, something which we had not yet done since we have been here. It really does make the place look much nicer, I think.

We had a wonderful Shabbat dinner this evening. Besides the challah, we had baked potatoes with butter, fake chicken shnitzels with something called bulgarit (I think that's the right transliteration) that seems about half way between sour cream and cream cheese, and a fruit salad containing orange pieces (with their skin), apple pieces, raisins, and canned pineapple pieces, all in pineapple juice. It was a delicious and unusual fruit salad. I really felt stuffed and satisfied.

14 January 2006


Well, we made it to services this morning, and I followed a bit more than I had when we were last there, 2 weeks ago. The service was more straight-forward (and there were less people there, too), since last time it was the Shabbat during Khanukah, whereas this Shabbat was just a regular Shabbat.

At one point, one of the leaders came over and asked us if we were kohanim (priests)! Of course, we said, "Lo" (no). Then, later he came and motioned for us to come up to the Torah. Since only one of us could go, it just happened to be David. Somewhat to his horror, he found out that he was getting an aliyah (being called up to bless and witness the reading of a part of the Torah reading for the week)! They were very patient, helpful, and respectful, and they helped him read the Torah blessing, which were printed on a plaque in the area where they read Torah (near the middle of the room), so it all went off fine. What a nice honor!

We had 3 nice, delicious meals today, which we prepared cooperatively (as we generally have been doing here).

The rest of the day was just a bit boring. It was too cold, and there was too much chance of rain for us to take a walk. Still, we had a restful day, and David also got a nice long nap. This is important, since tomorrow we will have to get up at about 5:40 a.m. in order to be sure that we get to our ulpan in Karmiel by 8:00. Of course, we'll also go to bed quite a bit earlier than usual! So a new phase of our adventure begins tomorrow as we begin to learn Hebrew very much in earnest!

15 January 2006


The day began at about 5:35, the time we had set the alarm to go off. Of course, we were already awake a little before (I hate alarms going off when I'm sound asleep!). So we got up, ate breakfast, gathered our notebooks and the directions to the ulpan, and left the house at about 6:25. The walk to the bus stop takes about 10 minutes, then we waited for 5 or 10 minutes for the next bus, and then we rode to the main station, which only takes about 5 minutes. We got there in plenty of time to catch the next bus #361 to Karmiel, which left the station promptly at 7:00.

When we got to Karmiel (at about 7:40), it was raining. We had only one umbrella, because the small one that David had had fell out of his pocket somewhere on Friday. So we took a taxi to the address for the ulpan class. It actually was a good thing that we did, because I would have gone the wrong way based on the directions I had! The taxi only cost 12.1 shekels (about $2.70).

We got to the building way early (about 7:45), and it was still locked. Luckily, there was a small area under cover and out of the rain where we could wait. Karmiel is not as cold as Tsfat because it's at a much lower elevation.

Eventually, everyone got there, the building was unlocked, and the class began. The teacher, of course, was expecting us, and she is VERY nice. Her name is Tovah (which is the feminine form of the Hebrew adjective that means "good"). She is very good with the class, which is almost all beginners or nearly beginners. David will learn a lot. I, however, already know essentially all of what she is teaching now, which is not surprising, since I spent 4 weeks last summer in the intermediate ulpan class. So Tovah is arranging for me to be in a more advanced class, which I will start on Tuesday (on Monday, we won't be able to go to class because we have an appointment at 10:00 with Emma in the absorption office here in Tsfat). I'm going to miss the people in Tovah's class, though, because it's quite an interesting group. We didn't meet all of them formally, but I think we're the only ones from the U.S., although certainly not the only English-speakers. There is a couple from India, at least one couple from Brazil, and at least one person from each of the following countries: Argentina, Uruguay, Holland, Surinam (although he was most recently also in Holland), and Ukraine. So there are quite a few Spanish-speakers in the class, and it's a very international and diverse group of people, all of whom have only recently made aliyah to Israel!

After class, we walked back towards the bus (the rain had cleared several hours earlier, and the sun was shining). We stopped at a falafel place to get some falafel for lunch. It was fairly good, but not the best we've had. As I looked out the back window of the falafel place, I saw that there was a store selling umbrella. It was in a shopping plaza on a lower level. So when we finished eating, we went around and went down the stairs to get an umbrella. They had lots of pretty and inexpensive umbrellas. We found a rainbow one and decided to get 2 to match. They were only 10 shekels each. It was an interesting shop with lots of school supplies, games, and toys. So we also got a set of dominoes, a set of playing cards, and a battery re-charger (I brought one that I bought here in Israel last summer, but I don't know where it is -- I think I may have packed it into the shipment rather than putting it into our suitcases to travel on the plane with us). There were several other shops in the same plaza, and we browsed a bit more and bought a few more items. Then we headed on back and caught the bus back to Tsfat. The local Tsfat bus (#4) was waiting at the station when we got there, so we hopped right on and got home quite quickly.

After supper in the evening, I helped David with his Hebrew writing. He is used to only the printed form of the letters, such as one would see in books or on most signs. But many of the letters look very different in the standard form of writing by hand, which is the form we must use for our homework, of course, and is also the form that the teachers uses when writing on the board and in hand-outs. So it's absolutely crucial for him to be familiar with the hand-written letters. I sat down with him, and we went through the letters one at a time. I showed him how to write the letter, and them he wrote a whole row of just that letter, saying its name each time he wrote it. We also discussed some of the similarities between different letters and how to distinguish them from each other.

Then we played a few rounds of dominoes, just for fun. After that, David taught me how to play Rummy, and I proceeded to trounce him thoroughly in every round! Beginners luck!

16 January 2006


Well, we went over to the absorption office today, but the appointment was actually for 10:30 rather than 10:00 as I had thought. Anyway, we did get in, and now we are all set up to receive our sal klitah (absorption basket) payments in our bank accounts. Later, we also went to the bank and arranged it so that David will be able to transfer money from his account to mine, since the mortgage payments will come out of my account (which we also signed for today). There's still some more paper work to be done for the mortgage, and I still need to arrange for the required life and property insurance. We will get some assistance from the government on our mortgage, since that's one of the rights of olim chadashim (new immigrants). The exact amount depends on some point system, so it has yet to be determined.

This afternoon, 2 different sets of workers showed up at the house. The first set consisted of 2 men (both very easy on the eyes, by the way) delivering the railings for our balconies. Tomorrow, they will return to install them, but for right now, they're all in our living room. They do look very nice. The second set of workers came to start installing the A/C units. They should have been here at least 2 weeks ago, but at least they're finally beginning. We will have 7 different A/C systems, one in each room. They are also heating systems, so we are really looking forward to having them. They only worked on the biggest one, for the living room/kitchen area, and they didn't even quite complete that yet, either. However, we won't actually be able to use any of these units until we are connected to the regular electricity. Fortunately, that should happen any day now. ... We hope....

17 January 2006


The day started again at 5:30 this morning. Again, I awoke well before the alarm went off. Again we ate breakfast and left the house at about 6:25, caught the #4 bus into town, and caught the #361 bus to Karmiel. This morning, it left at about 6:50, so we got to Karmiel plenty early. It wasn't raining, so it was pretty easy to get to our classes. My new class is in a building that is much nearer to the bus station. I found it quite easily.

The director of the ulpan talked to me and then placed me in a class with the book that actually comes BEFORE the one that I used last summer. But the class will be very good for me, since the teacher gives us lots of practical examples and practice in useful Hebrew words and phrases. The class actually has 2 different teachers, and I haven't met the other one yet, but the only other American in the class told me that the other teacher is also excellent. So I'm very happy in the new class.

Most of the students in the new class are from various parts of the former Soviet Union. One group is preparing to study at Ort Braude College, an engineering school located in Karmiel. I visited Ort Braude College last summer and talked with a faculty member of the mathematics department there. He is Israeli, but he said ALL of the other faculty members in the math department there (including the chair) are Russian!

When the students in my class found out that I was a math professor in the U.S., they immediately hoped that I could help them with math. Of course, I will, but only for pay. It may be a good source of some income for me at some point. I had thought that tutoring might be a way to earn money here, and this may definitely provide me with some connections.

Meanwhile, David is being more than challenged in his class. I certainly understand the feeling, because I had a similar feeling last summer at the beginning of my ulpan at the University of Haifa. I told him to be very patient with himself and to try not to panic, because he'll actually learn more than he thinks. Of course, he has LOTS of homework, but I'll help him with it, and it, too, will help him learn more.

After class, David & I met and ate falafel again at the same place that we ate on Sunday. Then we headed for the bus station and took the bus back to Tsfat.

At the Tsfat bus station, I inquired and found out that we can buy a ticket that will give us 5 rides on the intercity bus for the price of 4, and also we can get 10 rides on the local Tsfat busses for the price of 8. I bought the local tickets (for 10 rides) for each of us when we got on the local bus to return home, and tomorrow morning we'll each get a ticket for 5 rides on the intercity bus. Emma, at the absorption office, had told us that they will reimburse us for 90% of the bus tickets we use to get to ulpan in Karmiel, but I don't know which price they calculate that from, and I also don't know if that will include reimbursement for the local rides, something which I rather doubt.

When we got home, we found that all the railings on the balconies had been installed. They look really nice! As I write this (at about 4:46 in the afternoon), the A/C guys have not yet returned to continue their installation work.

18 January 2006


Another day of ulpan. We had a test right at the beginning of my class today, which I had not realized was going to happen. Still, it wasn't hard, and I think I only made a few minor mistakes. I always do quite well on WRITTEN tests! It's the conversation that I have trouble with.

After the test, we had the first break of the morning, which lasts half an hour. During that time, Zion happened to call me, saying the the electric company person was out. He put the guy on the phone so I could give him some information, including our mailing address and my teudat zehut (identity) number. So, I thought that maybe the electricity would be hooked up by the time we got back. Of course, it wasn't. I called Zion, he didn't think it would be hooked up until maybe next Sunday. Hmmm. Well, EVENTUALLY it really will happen, I'm sure! LOL

After the break, we did some work on declining prepositions (that is, the different forms one uses depending on the gender, person, and number), only a very small amount of which was actually new to me (I had a couple of vowel sounds wrong). But, more importantly for me, the teacher also had lots of illustrations of practical, everyday phrases and situations where we would use these forms, and we practiced many of them in class. Now THAT is useful to me!

After eating our daily falafel after class, we did just a bit of shopping. We got a pad of small pieces of paper for David to make vocabulary flash cards, we got a ruler, we got some plastic protectors to carry our school things in, we got some tape, we got a couple of coffee cups, we got some pens, and we got a mirror (we had NO mirrors in the house!). Then we headed home. I was a little tired, and David was exhausted. So, he's taking a nap, and I'm writing this.

No more work that we could detect, at least, was done on the house today. Although it was foggy and raining when we left early this morning (the worst weather yet!), it is sunny and clear, with a beautiful view of the Hula Valley from our house this afternoon. There is quite a cool breeze outside, though. Right now, it's 4:33, and the sun will set in about 20-30 minutes. Then I'll roll all the blinds down to try to conserve what little heat we might have picked up during the day.

19 January 2006


Today was a beautiful sunny day all day with only a few clouds in the sky, both in Tsfat and in Karmiel.

Yesterday, when we were riding the bus, a guy got on at Meron (a small town along the way) and dropped some coins. After that, he sat down just across the aisle from me and we started talking and found out that his aunt owns a gas station near Cal State San Bernardino and that he had lived with her for a while and even taken some classes at Cal State! His name is Pascal, and he lives in an even smaller town called Gush Khalav. Today, he got on the bus again and we talked some more. He rides the bus all the way to Haifa, where he is taking a course to get a license to drive a taxi. When I asked some questions about his family, it became apparent that he is a Christian Arab-Israeli. We already knew that he loves this country and that he speaks fluent Hebrew. When he asked about how we were related, I told him that we were a couple. It took him just a half a second or so to get it, and then he was fine with it. We'll look forward to seeing him on the bus every weekday morning.

Today we completed our first week of ulpan. David says that his Spanish has improved even more than his Hebrew. This is because there are so many students in the class that he is in who are from Latin America, and they are always talking to each other in Spanish. Yesterday, when David told the class about himself, one of the things he told them was that we have 35 snakes. So they asked him to bring one to class. He did exactly that today. We took one of our prettiest, a yearling name Gavnoni (which basically means "bumpy", a name we chose because he had some bumps in his back, which seem to have gone away now), and he was a big hit in David's class. We both were carrying all our things in big blue plastic bags today, and it makes me chuckle just a bit to think of all the people on the various busses we rode today who had no clue that there was a snake on board!

Although nearly everyone else in MY class speaks Russian, I haven't learned any of that language at all! But I know that MY Hebrew is definitely improving. Today, I met the other teacher, who teaches usually on Monday and Thursday. Her name is Aznat, and she is also a very good teacher (as is Shuli, the teacher I had already studied with on Tuesday and Wednesday). Both of them often spend some time on a particular grammatical point and then do lots of examples where we learn about practical, everyday uses of the words or expressions we have learned, and we also get to practice them in class. Aznat also does something really unique and interesting after the main break. She has us take a passage of text or dialogue from the book and translate it into our native language. Then she has us come up one by one with our translations and with the book open to her but not to us. Then we look at our translation but say the original Hebrew back to her. It sounds a little strange, but it does seem to actually be very helpful. I'm happy to say that I did my passage very well. It was about the menorah as a symbol of Israel.

When we came back to Tsfat, we went to Hiperneto, the largest grocery store that we have found in town, to get things on our grocery list. Because they wanted us to leave our bags by the door and we really didn't want to leave Gavnoni unattended, David waited outside while I got all the things on the list and got through the line at the kupah (the cash register). The woman in front of me must have had a very large family because she had a LOT of groceries. The lines move more slowly in Israel because everyone has to bag their own groceries. I eventually got through. I called both taxi drivers whose numbers were in my phone, but neither was available, so we just hailed a taxi that happened to be hanging around in front of the store (there are taxis EVERYWHERE here in Israel!). It cost us 18 shekels instead of the 12.5 that Asher charges, but we were just glad to get home, and there was no way that we would take the bus with so many bags to carry, especially since we would have had to take 2 different busses from there.

Zion had called me while I was waiting in line and had told me that the regular electricity was finally hooked up, and, sure enough, when we got home we found that it was. We also found that they had unplugged essentially everything in the house, including the refrigerator. Luckily, we discovered this pretty much right away and got everything plugged back in.

20 January 2006


No ulpan today! So we slept in and got up late. We did need to go into town to get challah for Shabbat, and we knew that if we got there too late there might not be any really good challah left. So we took the bus into town and got there by about 9:00, I think, and got some good challah. Then we went on down the street to get some other things we needed. We got a funnel, yams and a coconut from a little produce store, an electric radiator with oil in it (2000 watts, the same power as the little one we already have but a completely different system), more thermal underwear, a bottle of sweet red wine, and some spices (including curry powder) from a little store that specializes in spices, nuts, beans, and grains.

I decided it was past time for me to get a haircut, so Zion came along and took us to a shop where his cousin, also named Zion, is a barber. I had to wait a little while, but I got a really good haircut. Then Zion took us home, so we didn't need a taxi.

The wines we had gotten for previous Shabbats here were, quite frankly, vile! So David decided to mull them yesterday. He put orange rinds and pieces of orange, both with cloves stuck into them, and cinnamon sticks and a cup of sugar and the bad wine from 2 different bottles all together into the crock pot and heated it all night long. Then, today, he added the bottle of wine that I got today (which, ironically, was very good all by itself despite being one of the cheapest I could find!). The result of this was a very sweet and delicious wine for this Shabbat (and probably about 3 more, too!).

So, we ate well today, and we were just a little warmer from running BOTH heaters in the kitchen area. Tonight, we'll run both of them in our bedroom, and it should be considerably warmer in there.

This afternoon, a real storm came up, and it is still continuing (it's about 8:00 p.m. as I write this). There has been rain and fog and a strong, whistling wind. We are very thankful that we don't have to go anywhere! We certainly hope that it will clear by morning so that we can go to services. If it doesn't, we'll have to stay home because we'd get soaked by the time we got to the synagogue!

Both last night and tonight, we used the jacuzzi that is in the bathtub in our upstairs hall bathroom. It's really just a bit small for 2 people at once, but it feels so good! Not only do the jets stir the water vigorously, but it also has a built-in heater with a thermostat, so the water stays nice and hot for as much time as we want to spend there. When we get thoroughly warmed through and through, we get out and feel warm for quite some time. It's one of the few real luxuries that we have, and now that we have a good supply of electricity, we can take full advantage of it.

21 January 2006


With both heaters in our bedroom, we finally had a really good night's rest last night. I stayed under the blanket, but I could put my ears or hands out without them getting cold. David had thrown the blanket completely off by morning. We were so thankful for the second heater (and for enough electricity to power it). Actually, the electricity did get knocked out briefly during the night, probably by the storm, but not enough for us to get cold.

When we woke up and opened the blinds this morning, we saw that it was clear and sunny, a dramatic change from last night. The storm had passed. There was even more snow on Har Khermon (Mt. Hermon), which was clearly visible even though it's up near the point where Israel, Syria, and Lebanon meet.

We got to synagogue quite early this morning, and I was able to follow a bit more of the service than I had before. I knew when they were doing MiChamocha and Ashrei and El Adon and the Barchu, and the Amida, to mention a few. I also followed essentially all of the Torah reading. At this synagogue, they always read the entire Torah portion for the week, as well as the haftarah reading. Several people shook our hands and bid us Shabbat Shalom today when the service was over.

The rest of the day was a day of rest. After we came back from services, we just stayed home. Even though it was sunny out, there was at least some wind, and the air was quite cold. We watched several episodes of "Friends" and of "The Benny Hill Show" on TV. This evening, I listened for a while online to Weekend Edition (on Saturday morning California time) on KVCR, the NPR station in San Bernardino that we always used to listen to when we lived there.

22 January 2006


It was another bright, sunny day this morning, although it became overcast by afternoon.

It was a rough day today for David in his ulpan class. He had so much trouble that he was just about ready to quit and forget it all. But he got a nice nap this afternoon, and this evening I helped him with his homework, so now he doesn't feel quite so lost.

In my class, we spent some time today in the computer lab doing grammar exercises on the computer and in the listening lab listening to readings on cassettes and answering written questions about what we had heard.

This morning, during our half-hour break, I called to confirm an appointment I had made last week for someone to come and install our washing machine. They weren't able to find someone to speak English, so I cobbled together enough Hebrew to confirm the appointment and to give them Zion's number so that they would be sure to get in. Sure enough, by the time we got home, the washer was all installed. So, I guess I AM making progress!

This afternoon I called and made an appointment for David to see the doctor tomorrow (both the doctor and whoever it was who was making the appointment speak fluent English). It was surprisingly easy, at least once I had the right telephone number.

We took another soak in the jacuzzi this evening, and we're still feeling quite warm from that, even though we've been out for maybe 30 or 40 minutes now.

This afternoon, shortly before sundown, I took some pictures from the balcony just outside our office (actually, the third upstairs bedroom). Here's a view of Har Khermon (Mt. Hermon), the highest point in Israel. In fact, it's right on the border between Israel and Syria, and it's also very close to Lebanon. Of course, it's covered with snow.

Picture of HarKhermon  

23, 24, and 25 January 2006


Wow! I missed 2 days, and now it's the 3rd day. We really have been busy. We've hardly even had time to get all our homework done. On Monday (the 23rd), David had his doctor's appointment. But it was at 5:00, so, before we went there, I went to Bank Tefachot, the bank from whom we'll be getting our mortgage. Although we're getting it from their main branch in Jerusalem (because that's where our mortgage broker is), I needed to go into this branch so that they could calculate the amount of government help that I'll get. I thought everything had been done, but the next day I found out that there was an application form that needed to be filled out that they had not done. So I'll have to go back in on Thursday, because Monday and Thursday are the only days that they are open in the afternoon (4:00 - 7:00). Sigh!

Anyway, after the bank, we walked over and found where the doctor's office is. He saw David, asked about his illnesses and medicines, and wrote him a prescription for one of them that he has already run out of. At least one other of his HIV medicines is not available anywhere in Israel, so this could be a problem. Either we'll have to figure out a substitute, or we'll have to find a way to get it from the U.S. The doctor seemed fairly nice, but he didn't really seem to know much about HIV treatment, and he had the typical Israeli laid-back attitude, even though he's originally from South Africa.

The next day, we took the prescription to the pharmacy nearest to us. First, they didn't have any in stock, which was hardly surprising. So I asked if they could order it. Of course, they could. But apparently it's not on the approved list for our HMO, Maccabi, so we'll have to go over to their office and get them to put it on. This may be routine, or it may be a big struggle; we don't know yet which.

We had our first guests here last night (Tuesday)! Three friends of Jim Potter, a friend of ours from BCC, had written e-mail to us about a week ago, letting us know that they were in Israel and would be visiting in the North sometime. Of course, we wrote back and invited them to visit us. A few days ago, they had written that they were heading north and wouldn't have e-mail access, so they gave me their cell phone number. I was supposed to call them on Monday, but I was so busy that I forgot all about it. When I was checking my e-mail Tuesday evening, I was reminded to call them. So I picked up the phone right away. It turned out that they were driving around, somewhat lost, in Tsfat at that very moment! After a bit, they happened to go by the Hiperneto, so I knew where they were. I wasn't sure I could get them accurately through all the traffic circles from there to the bus station, but we did manage, and, from there, it was quite easy for me to talk them all the way to very near our house, where I simply went out and met them! What a fun visit we had! It was really great to talk with Americans and laugh a little about some of the Israeli quirks. And we enjoyed showing off our house. They took some pictures, including one with all of us (except the photographer, of course!) at various point all the way up and down the stairwell. Quite a artsy picture, I think. So that was a really serendipitous surprise, and we thoroughly enjoyed their visit.

This morning, we went to the lab as soon as they opened (which turned out to be 7:30 rather than 7:00, which was when we got there, or 8:00, which was what the sign said). After that, we caught the bus to Karmiel and arrived there about an hour late for our classes. David had arranged it with his teacher the day before, but I hadn't known for sure that we'd be going in today, so I had not arranged it. Still, it was no problem, and, as a matter of fact, I don't they I missed much anyway.

When we got out of class today, it was raining quite hard (the previous 2 days had been mostly sunny). It let up by the time we finished our falafel and went to catch the bus. When we got back to Tsfat, we went down to the shuk (which, you may recall, only happens on Wednesdays) and bought some fruits vegetables. We had planned to take the taxi home, but we couldn't get ahold of our taxi driver (maybe he was out of town), so we took the bus (after a rather long wait). There was some rain and wind on the way home from the bus stop, and it blew David's umbrella inside out, but, other than that, we got home okay.

So, some homework, a nap for David, some supper, and a soak in the jacuzzi, and now it's time for bed. Hopefully, it won't be 3 days before I write here again!

26 & 27 January 2006


Well, it hasn't been 3 days, but it HAS been 2 days! Oh well.

Thursday was quite a good day. Our classes went well. I had prepared a text to read to Oznat, my teacher on Mondays and Thursdays. This time, she had copied a text from the more advanced book, which I had actually studied last summer at the University of Haifa. I understood the text quite well, so making the translation to English was not hard at all. What I had to practice was to be able to say the Hebrew back to her at a good speed while looking only at my English translation of it. I was so proud that I did it well, and she seemed almost stunned. It really felt good!

David had some fun in his class. One of his fellow students had complimented him (in Hebrew, with some help from the teacher, of course) on his nice haircut, so he wanted to compliment her back. He was trying to tell her that her clothes looked nice, but what he actually said was that she looked good in her clothes (with kind of the implication that he had seen her without her clothes!). Oh the complexities of language! LOL

Next week, 2 of David's classmates, the couple from India, will be visiting us here in Tsfat, and they'll be bringing his parents, who are visiting from India but will be making aliyah next year, with them. So we decided that we had better get a few more things for entertaining. We stopped at the dollar store (so named because everything there costs a dollar; well, actually slighty more than a dollar) and got salt & pepper shakers, some small serving dishes, and some cups to serve tea in. We also went to the little market in town and got a few more supplies.

While we were waiting at the bus stop, Zion (our builder) called. When he heard that we were waiting at the bus stop to go home (and it was raining), he said he'd come and give us a ride, for which we were very thankful. He also wanted to show us the progress they had made on the house. The most important thing was that they got the A/C/heater unit in the living room working! We have been running it constantly since then, and it really makes a difference in the house. I had sent Zion e-mail the day before listing the things that needed to be done to finish the house and the smaller things that also needed to be touched up or fixed. So I think he realized that he had better get busy on things.

In the evening, I had to go back into town to Bank Tefachot to get my teudat zachaot (which will give me a discount, paid for by the government, on our mortgage). It was raining and cold, but I had no choice but to get down to the bus stop and wait for the bus.

At first, the woman at the bank didn't think that she could do it because we are getting our loan from the Jerusalem branch and not the Tsfat branch. She tried to call her manager (the woman who had done part of the job for me on Monday) but couldn't get ahold of her. She asked me if I could come back in about a half hour, and, of course, I agreed. She also took my cell phone number. So I headed up to the Internet Café to get the application for insurance that the agent in Jerusalem had e-mailed to me printed. While I was still doing that, the woman from the bank called and said that she would be happy to help me. So I went on back down there, and some time later and 60 shekels poorer, I left, with the application done. She said that it will take a week to 10 days to actually process it.

Today, Friday, we had several things to do. First, we had a LOT of laundry, since we had not yet done any since coming here. Almost all of it actually was white socks and thermal underwear. Since the washer is quite small, it took 3 loads to get it all clean. The washer and dryer here are both VERY different from any that I have ever seen or used before. The washer has a side door and turns vertically instead of a top lid with horizontal agitation and spinning. Although it was made in Germany, the instruction booklet and all the words on the machine itself indicating the settings are in Hebrew! With a little help from my handy pocket electronic dictionary, I was able to figure them all out. It's actually a very nice machine, and it washed our things well. The dryer is not as different from what I'm used to, and it did have some instruction pages in English. Both machines make quite a few strange noises, which are amplified by the hard walls, floors, and ceilings in the house (which is all made of concrete, of course!). I'm sure kitty must have been terrified by the strange sounds, and he definitely stayed hidden under the covers the whole time, which was just about all day!

We went into town to get our weekly challah and Shabbat pastry. We also got some rubbing alcohol (mostly for cleaning my glasses) and some food at the market. When we returned, several people were busily working on various minor things in the house. Zion came by and said that he had gotten some different people who will be coming next Monday to install the rest of the A/C/heating units.

In the early afternoon, we decided to walk to the local market (about a mile away) and get some falafel at the stand next to it. On our way, it began raining, and it was quite cold, so we decided to try the pizza place there instead, since it has a place to eat inside. However, although we got there before 2:00 in the afternoon, everything, including even the market, was already closed! I think they keep Friday afternoon here even better than the Adventists in Loma Linda! So, we walked back home and ate lunch here. It actually was quite a good lunch.

After lunch, David took his nap, and I did my now-traditional Friday afternoon sweeping of the entire house, literally from top to bottom. All the floors are tile, so sweeping them makes them all look much better, a nice reward for all that work.

28 & 29 January 2006


Darn, I missed another day! I had intended to write last night (Saturday night), but I got busy with homework, and, before I knew it, it was bedtime.

We went to services again at the Sephardi synagogue, and I think I followed even a bit more than before. It is always fairly easy to follow the Torah reading because the chanting goes more slowly than most of the prayers. The service was a bit shorter than usual this time, mostly because there was no sermon and they didn't have the usual auction of the aliyot (the privilege and honor to stand and observe part of the Torah reading and to say blessings before and after that part of the reading). I don't have any idea what the reason was for either of these two differences, since really NOTHING is actually announced (not even in Hebrew!).

Today we started our third week of ulpan. Both of us are progressing well, I think. Today, my class spent time practicing grammar on the computers and listening to audio tapes and answering questions about what we heard.

After we got back to Tsfat, we went to Zion's office and printed out several copies of our resumes. Then we went to the post office (and waited 15 minutes for them to open) and bought stamps and envelopes. After that, we went to the kupat cholim (our HMO) to request them to approve the refill of one of David's medicines that the doctor had prescribed. They needed a letter from the doctor (who knows why? After all, he DID prescribe the medicine!), but they agreed to call him and have him FAX it to them. So, hopefully that will go well, but it's by no means certain as yet.

Tomorrow, I am supposed to present an essay to the class that I wrote describing out aliyah process (MUCH shorter than THIS lengthy tome!). I know that if I tried to read from the Hebrew I would go too slowly and read like a first grader. So I translated it into English, and, sure enough, I can look at the English and say the Hebrew at a pretty good speed. It seems totally counter-intuitive, but I can actually read and translate Hebrew (at least with a passage that I know) faster than I can just read Hebrew.

After that, I helped David with some of his homework. We went briefly over some the the vocabulary that the teacher had given them today, and then we filled in a table of verb forms, and I helped him see and understand the underlying patterns, which are really very elegant. Even he had to agree on that point. :-)

30 & 31 January & 1 February 2006


Time must really be flying; I missed 2 days in a row again. So, let's see... On Monday, we had expected that the A/C/heaters would be installed, but when we came home, we were disappointed to find that nothing had been done. When I talked to Zion, he said that they had indeed come out but had discovered that some critical part was missing.

Sure enough, on Tuesday, when we came home, all the indoor units were mounted on the walls in the various rooms, and the guys were still working. In fact, they worked until about 8:00 that evening. There were 2 guys working, the cuter one of which spoke English fairly well. Later, they were joined by 2 additional guys. They all spoke to each other mostly (if not entirely) in Russian. They were good workers, and they were courteous, as well. And we were SO happy to have all our heaters!

On Tuesday evening, David's doctor, Dr. Gold (who will also be my doctor), called and said that the kupat cholim (the HMO) had given an initial approval of the medicine that the doctor had prescribed for David and had said that the doctor needed to refer David to an AIDS clinic. This is good news, because this will help to ensure that David gets proper care. We will find out on Thursday, when David has an appointment with Dr. Gold, where the clinic is and, probably, when he'll be able to go there.

Today, Wednesday, I got a call from the movers telling me that the things we shipped had arrived. They wanted to deliver tomorrow, but we both have doctor's appointments tomorrow afternoon, so we wouldn't have been able to stay here the whole day. They also needed to FAX me a sheet summarizing the additional costs and telling me how to deposit money into their account. So, our shipment should be delivered on Sunday. It will be very nice to have the rest of our things!

We came back as soon as we could after class instead of eating lunch in Karmiel first. I think we wasted less time waiting for the bus that way. Then we ate in Tsfat, picked up the FAX that our movers had sent us (at Zion's office), and walked down to the weekly shuk, where we bought various fruits and vegetables.

We had Asher, our favorite taxi driver, pick us up at the shuk when we were done. He brought us home and then waited briefly while I put our bags in the house. Then he took us over to the absorption office (misrad haklitah) to meet with our counselor, Emma.

The ulpan had not yet FAXed our attendance records, so I'll have to make sure that Efrat, the director, does that tomorrow. We found out that we will get reimbursed 90% of the cost of a monthly pass on the local Tsfat busses (which we bought just the other day for February) and also 90% of the full fare for the trips we make to Karmiel on the intercity bus. The really good part is that we buy tickets for 5 rides at a time on that bus and thereby save 20% off of the full fare. So we may actually MAKE a little money that way. Furthermore, I think the money will be deposited into our accounts fairly soon, rather than several months down the road, as had been rumored.

2 & 3 February 2006


Thursday (the 2nd) was really busy because we both had appointments with Dr. Gold. By the time that we got home from school, it was only about half an hour until we had to head back into town. David's appointment was at 5:00, and its main purpose was to get the referral to the HIV clinic. We won't find out, though, until Sunday where the clinic is and when he may go. My appointment was to have the doctor check an itchy rash that I've had on my ankles that actually started months before we left the States. I'd just been too busy to have it checked out. He gave me some cream that may help, but if it doesn't, he told me to go to the skin clinic, which occurs once a week at the Maccabi kupat cholim (HMO) and for which I do not need a referral.

After our appointments, we went on down to the Hiperneto. Well, actually we first went to the hardware store that is right next to the Hiperneto in the same building. There, we got some more efficient light bulbs to try out, and we also got a shovel and another digging tool (it has 3 prongs and will be useful for digging out weeds, of which we already have plenty!). Then I went in and got a few things at the Hiperneto (the biggest grocery store in town), and we called Asher to take us home.

Today, Friday, was a bit more leisurely. We did have to run quite a few errands, though. We went to the bakery for our weekly challah and Shabbat pastry, we got a cool rolling rack to keep our vegetables and fruits on, we got my prescription filled, we went again to the doctor's (because I had forgotten to bring the list of all of David's medicines yesterday!), we got a prescription for a medicine to substitute for one of David's that is not available here (and, it's very expensive, too!), and we bought a couple of rose plants to plant. Then we took the bus back home.

After lunch, we planted the roses. Then I got caught up on my e-mail, David started heating a delicious-smelling mixture in the crock pot for Shabbat, and I did my weekly sweeping of the whole house. After that, we moved the snakes out of the large room and down to the basement. We plan to use the large room to store a major portion of our shipment when it arrives until we can sort it out and figure where to put everything.

I've taken a few pictures of the house and of scenery we see from the house. I've uploaded them to snapfish, and, hopefully, the following URL will let you view them. If this doesn't work, let me know, and I can send you an e-mail that should let you view them. Here's the URL:

http://www.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=36677934/a=43876740/t_=43876740

Enjoy!

4 February 2006


It was beautiful and sunny when we got up this morning, so, after breakfast, instead of going to services, he decided to go for a walk. I took my camera with me, and I took lots of pictures. Many of them were pictures of wild flowers. After a while, though, the threatening clouds began to gather, so we decided we'd better head back home. As we approached our house, I took a progression of pictures, first showing the cluster of all 5 houses from a distance, and then walking through between them to our house. This is the least muddy route home.

In the afternoon, I uploaded all the pictures from the camera into my computer. Then I uploaded some albums of pictures to Yahoo, including the 4 pictures that I had uploaded yesterday to snapfish. The advantage of Yahoo is that I can publish them to a page of pictures that anyone can reliably access from a fairly simple URL. "So," you may be asking, "what IS that URL?" Here it is:

http://photos.yahoo.com/arlanwareham

There are 3 different albums there that you can view. The first album is entitled "View from late Jan 2006". These are 4 pictures that I took on several different days. The first picture is of the sunrise from our balcony, with the side of the house framing it on the right. The second is a rainbow, taken from the same spot but looking more northeast instead of southeast, as the sunrise was. The other 2 pictures were taken at dusk. In one, you actually see more of our neighbor's house than ours, and you can also see him, Rabbi Mordechai Nathanson. The last picture has only our house in it. In both of these last two, if you look closely, you can see Har Khermon (Mt. Hermon) in the background, covered with snow.

The second album is entitled "Shabbat nature walk 4 Feb 2006". It consists mostly of wild flowers, but there are also 2 or 3 pictures of crows. As you will see, the crows here are gray and black instead of solid black. But they sound the same and behave pretty much the same. They're also about the same size. In one of these pictures, I got very lucky. I was taking a picture of a crow sitting on the side of the dirt road, but when I actually snapped the picture, I caught another crow in flight! I didn't even know it until I had gotten home and was looking at the pictures on the computer! All of the crow pictures and most of the flower pictures were taken making good use of my camera's zoom feature.

The last album is entitled "Our house 2006-02-04". This is a selection of the pictures I took as I approached our house. The 2 darker, reddish colored houses are NOT our house but are the house next to ours and the one the other side of it. Even without having been here, you may be able to see how we went through. In the first 3 pictures, you really can't see any of our house at all. Then, in the 4th picture, you begin to see our house through the gap between other houses. In the 5th, 6th, 7th, and 10th pictures you see mostly our house, with parts of others serving as framing. In the 8th and 9th pictures, you see only our house. Enjoy!

By the way, the crock pot lunch was VERY delicious. We even had some more for supper, as well!

5 & 6 February 2006


We didn't go to ulpan on Sunday, because our shipment was scheduled to arrive, and we didn't know what time of day it would be. When I called the shippers in Haifa in the morning, they said it would be between 12:00 and 3:00. At about 12:30, they called and said that it would be between 3:00 and 5:00. So we actually COULD have gone to class. Oh well.

David also needed to go into the kupat cholim (HMO office) to get some more blood tests. The doctor is trying to find out why he is anemic. When David came back from town, he brought 2 trees with him (small ones, of course!), a dwarf lemon and a kosher Yameni etrog tree (yes, they are not all automatically kosher!). It cannot come from a planted seed, and it can't be grafted, in order to be kosher. So we look forward to some WONDERFUL etrogs for Succot (but probably not for a couple of years)!

The guys in the truck bringing our shipment from Haifa first called here about 3:30. I told them which way to come up to Tsfat (through Meron, not through Rosh Pinna). But when they arrived in Tsfat, it was quite difficult to get them headed in the right direction. I eventually walked about a mile, to the main road through town. I met them there and rode back to the house in the truck (an open flatbed truck; i could see my desk and many of our other things on the back as it approached me; it's a good thing that it was a bright sunny day, not a rainy day!). Then the 4 guys unloaded the truck and brought everything into the house. Most things went into one large room that we have, filling it about 3/4 full! Now we have the HUGE job of unpacking and figuring out where to put everything. It will take months to do that. It's nice, though, to have all our things here, safe and sound at last (well, at least everything APPEARS fine, so I don't think anything will be broken).

The cutest of the 3 movers was quite excited when he saw the snakes. He wanted to hold one, so, when they had finished unloading, we brought out Khalud, our beautiful male brindle black rat snake who is also one of our largest snakes, for him to hold. He really enjoyed that, and he also liked teasing one of the other guys who was not nearly as excited about snakes! :-)

After the movers were finished and had left, we decided to walk over to the kanyon (shopping center), where the nearest market and the office of absorption are, to get some pizza at the pizza place there. We had never tried it before, but it was very good. We got a delicious pizza for two with olives, mushrooms, tomatoes, and corn, and 2 Diet Cokes. The whole meal cost only 40 shekels for BOTH of us, which is less than $10. Not bad at all!

On Monday, it was back to ulpan for both of us. On Mondays and Thursdays, I have my favorite teacher, Oznat (although the other teacher, Shuli, is also excellent). Oznat is the one who has us translate a text into our native language (English, in my case, but Russian for most in my class). Then we have to look at our translation but say the original Hebrew to her. I had worked hard on the last text she had given me. Translating it was not difficult, but remembering the phrasing and wording was quite tricky. The Hebrew is of a higher level than the simple beginning texts. I was so happy and relieved that I did it very well, and Oznat was very impressed, too! Now she's going to start giving me passages from ulpan level gimel (the 3rd level) and from one of the regular, big newspapers here, Y'diot Acharanot (Latest Information). So I stopped by and bought today's paper at the newsstand after class today.

David is also progressing well in his ulpan, though he had several insulin reactions (low blood sugar due to too much insulin relative to the amount of carbohydrates he had eaten and also probably caused by a little more exercise than he had anticipated, since he had to walk back up to the building where my class is rather quickly).

When we got back to Tsfat (at about 2:25), we mostly had to just wait. I needed to meet Zion, our builder, at the bank to sign papers so that the mortgage will go through and he will be able to get the rest of his money for the house. The banks close at about 12:30 or 1:00, well before we can get back to Tsfat from Karmiel, and don't open again until 4:00. And some of them only open again at 4:00 twice a week! Talk about "bankers' hours"! Luckily, all of that seemed to go relatively well, so Zion will very soon have his money.

As I was waiting at the bank, Zion came by but couldn't find a parking place (they are VERY few near there!). He spotted David out by the road, so he got out of the truck and had David take it and park it up near Zion's office, not too far away. So David got to drive here in Israel!

After that, we went downstairs in the same building to the office of the kupat cholim (HMO) to get directions to the HIV clinic. It turns out that the clinic is in Haifa, and that David's appointment is TOMORROW at 11:00. So, we'll miss another day of ulpan (there's no WAY that I'm sending David to Haifa alone!). Anyway, that will be our adventure for tomorrow.

From the kupat cholim, we walked down to the hardware store, next to Hiperneto. We bought 3 plastic cabinets, 3 plastic shelving units, a hoe, and a rake. I arranged the whole deal, including delivery either next Friday or next Sunday, depending on when they get the other 2 shelving units in, in Hebrew! By the way, all of that cost only 2395 shekels, which is about $532, including tax. We will use the cabinets for storage in the kitchen, in the bedroom, and in the office, and we will use the shelving units to put the snake terraria on in the security room in the lowest level of the house. We had measured the room, and we measured the shelving units, and this should be a very efficient way of arranging the terraria.

I did stop and buy a few things at the Hiperneto (our favorite supermarket in Tsfat), too. We could have taken the bus home, but we would have had to go on 2 different busses, and it would have taken quite a long time, so we called Asher, our taxi driver, to take us home. On the way, I practiced my Hebrew by chatting with him in Hebrew, even though he speaks excellent English.

7 February 2006


We did the big trip to Haifa today! From the main bus station in Tsfat to Merkazit HaMifratz (The Gulf Center) bus station in Haifa takes about 1:35 to 1:40 on the #361 bus. Then we had to wait a while for the #108 Haifa bus to the Rambam Hospital. I think it took about 20 or 30 minutes to make that trip, even though it's not really very far, since there is a lot of traffic on the roads in Haifa, especially that part, down near the port and the ocean.

When we finally arrived at the Rambam Hospital (about a half hour before our 11:00 appointment) we found that it is a HUGE complex, with multiple buildings. All the signs are only in Hebrew, and they're not very helpful anyway. Finally we managed to locate the right building and go up to the 1st floor (which would be the 2nd floor in the U.S.; Israel uses the really more logical European system) on the correct side of the building. We actually got to the office where we needed to be right at 11:00, and they were expecting us and welcomed us warmly.

We talked with the doctor, the nurse, and the social worker, all of whom spoke fluent English. They were all very friendly and very competent. After talking together, all 5 of us for a while, the nurse and the social worker took me into the next room to talk further, and the doctor did a physical examination on David. It's clear now that David is going to get top-notch care for his HIV. And I found out from the nurse that all his HIV medicines will be free by law! So we were VERY relieved.

We found a more direct way out of the complex and back to the bus stop. Along the way, we stopped and ate falafel at a place right next to a beach. Then we got on the #108 back to the big bus station, caught the #361, and returned to Tsfat uneventfully. You'd think that riding on busses would be quite restful. After all, one just sits there. But, somehow, it's quite tiring, so we were both pretty worn out. Nevertheless, David wanted to go up and check if a certain shop up past the banks on Y'rushalayim Street was open. He had seen a little chest on display in their window there that would be perfect to display his thimble collection. But the shop had always been closed whenever he had checked before (at least 3 or 4 different times!). This time, though, it was open! The price was marked at 65 shekels, which is very reasonable, but, even without my asking, the woman gave it to us for only 60 shekels! So we were delighted as we headed over to wait for the #4 bus home.

When we got home, David took a nap, and I wrote a couple of e-mails to check into possible jobs for me. After his nap, we ate supper, did some homework, worked for about 40-50 minutes on sorting things out from our shipment, took a little soak in the jacuzzi, and then got onto the computer to write this. Now it's after 9:00, which means that we'd better head for bed. 5:30 comes very early in the morning!

8 February 2006


During the first break from ulpan this morning, I went over to a nearby car rental agency to reserve a car for tomorrow, which I will also keep over the weekend and turn back in on Sunday. The reason is that I have an interview tomorrow evening in Jerusalem! There is a company there that produces some kind of educational materials for the U.S. market, and they need a math editor. It may be quite short-term, but I should be able to do it from home, and it could provide some income for us.

After class, we ate at our usual falafel stand and then headed to the bus station. Since the falafel had been already cooked when we arrived there, we got it more quickly than usual, which allowed us to catch the bus the leaves about 35-40 minutes earlier than the one we usually catch.

When we got back to Tsfat, we went to the shuk and got some fruits and vegetables. Then we called Asher to take us home.

After doing a bit of homework, we headed back to town on the bus. We had planned to send some registered mail back to the U.S. from the post office, but, when we got there, we discovered that Wednesday is the one day when there are not open at all after 1:00 p.m. So we'll have to mail it tomorrow or the next day.

We then went to the nursery, where we bought a couple more roses to plant. After that, we went to the furniture and appliance store (our favorite one, where Meir works) to get a freezer (for the mice that the snakes eat) and a desk for David. We also got a chair for his desk and an iron. All of these together cost less than $1000. A quick stop at the market, and we were all set to head home. We caught the #4 bus, but it only went to the central bus station. So we walked a short distance to a nearby bus stop and waited for another bus. The #3 came along first, so we took it to the pizza place at the kanyon (where we ate for the first time a few days back). We got the same pizza as before, except that we got black olives instead of green this time. Again, we only had to pay 40 shekels.

While we were at the pizza shop, on the TV there they were showing an awards show of some sort for the best male and female Israeli singers of the year, kind of like an Israeli grammies award, I guess. When they announced the best male singer, the camera of course showed the winner getting up from his seat in the audience. Before he left to receive his award, he gave a rather long kiss to a man sitting next to him. I rather think that they were a couple!

The weather has been rather cold all day today, and it kept threatening to rain, both here in Tsfat and in Carmiel. Luckily, the whole time we were out today, I never actually had to use my umbrella. Not long after we got home this evening, though, the thunder began, and then it began to hail! We were very thankful that we were home and didn't have to go out anymore tonight!

After quite a bit of hail had fallen, we peaked out and saw that it looked almost like snow out there. So I took some pictures. I have posted them, together with some others of the sunrise that I took a few days ago, at:

http://photos.yahoo.com/arlanwareham

I created a new album called "Sunrise and hail". With the sunrise pictures, I used the rail of our balcony as a frame. The first 2 hail pictures were taken looking out from our front door. The other one was taken looking out onto the balcony from the middle bedroom door. I used flash for all of the hail pictures.

9 February 2006


This morning, there was still slush from the hail left on our front porch. And it was raining as we left the house, too! On the way to the bus stop, the wind picked up, and we got pretty soaked; our umbrellas were only minimally effective. My jeans didn't get completely dry until half way through the morning, and my feet didn't get completely dried until about the end of class, i.e. around noon. David's feet were still wet until the evening.

Although I didn't see any snow in Tsfat or on the way down the hill, I did see a little bit of snow near the road, between Meron and K'far Shammai, which was rather strange, since that's at a considerably lower elevation than Tsfat. All I can figure is that it's more sheltered in that area, so there was probably much less wind.

After class, I went over and picked up the rental car that I had reserved yesterday. Then I went on down and picked up David, and we headed for Jerusalem for my interview there. We left Carmiel at about 1:00. On the way, we went through numerous thundershowers and some hail. Just as we were approaching a MAJOR junction a ways southeast of Haifa, lightning struck quite close to us, and, when we got to the junction, the traffic signals were out. Now, in California in a situation like this, everyone is so timid. They're all sure that they're going to get into a major crash if they so much as inch out at the wrong time. This rapidly causes HUGE backup of traffic waiting to get through. Here in Israel, it's just the opposite. Everyone pushes their way through the intersection and honks at everyone else! Unfortunately, this ALSO results in traffic problems, mainly gridlock within the intersection! However, we did get through fairly quickly, probably mostly because we got to the intersection very soon after the signals went out. Of course, I'm NOT a timid driver! :-)

I had checked with the clerk who rented me the car and found that I could drive as much as I wanted on Highway 6 (the Trans-Israel toll way) for only $10 extra. This saved my quite a bit of time each way, since it's a real turnpike with no traffic signals or cross traffic, and also since it's a shorter distance. They take pictures of the license plates of cars as they pass, and mail the bill to the registered owner of the car. This is why one has to check about driving on this highway if one rents a car in Israel. In a couple of places, near Tulkarm and near another of the Palestinian towns, the separation barrier (constructed to keep suicide bombers from entering Israel) runs right along the eastern side of this highway since it runs right next to the Territories (the other side of the so-called green line).

We got to Jerusalem around 3:30, and I managed to find a place to park the car (in the parking garage of a kanyon), and we found the place where my interview was (31 King George Street, for those of you who know Jerusalem) quite quickly. The company is called Lambda (hmmmm, I wonder if they have any idea??), and they produce educational materials (printed books and software) for math education for elementary students. They have already developed these for the Israeli market, the British market, and the French market. Now, they're working, with an American partner, to develop materials for the American market, particularly for students who have fallen behind. There are really 2 different jobs that I might be doing: either developing the units, including materials for the teachers, or editing units that someone else has already written. The editing involves more than just correcting or improving the English. I would also help them sharpen the focus and get rid of material not related to the current topic. Also, they want to change things that are too British and make it more American.

For the interview, they described all this too me briefly, and then they had me sit in a room and actually write a unit to introduce students to fractions and make sure that they understand the meanings of "numerator" and "denominator". They gave me some of the materials that they had previously done, so I didn't have to work totally from scratch. After I had finished, at least 3 different people looked at what I had done and gave me feed-back on it. They seemed quite impressed, which is good, since this is hardly the type of math that I'm really familiar with teaching. Before I left, they gave me a unit that had previously been edited, including both the pre-edit and post-edit versions, so that I could see what kinds of changes they were looking for. Then they also gave me another unit to edit and also sent it to me by e-mail. I'll go through and edit it and send it back to them by Monday morning.

So, we'll see what happens. For the first job (actually creating lesson units), they would like me to come to Jerusalem once a week. If I have to do that, I'll have to buy a car, since renting one every week would be too expensive. Also, I'm just not sure that the job would pay enough to be worth it, since, at least initially, I can only work part-time because I need to finish my ulpan. The second job, the editing, could be done almost entirely by e-mail, so that may work out better. If they want me to work for the long term, and if they are willing to pay enough, I may eventually do some of both jobs, especially after I finish my 5 months of ulpan. We didn't discuss money or any other terms of employment yet.

After the interview, David & I walked down the Ben Yehuda pedestrian mall, and off just a little ways to a restaurant called Rimon Restaurant & Cafe, where I had eaten when I was in Jerusalem last summer, and had a very nice dinner. Then we walked back to the car, paid the 40 shekels for parking, and headed home. We hit only a little rain on the way back. We filled the car with gas (about 160 some shekels) in K'far Tavor and came up to Tsfat from Rosh Pinna (the east side).

We got home about 9:30, so we headed for bed rather quickly. In fact, I'm actually writing this on Friday morning, although it's still Thursday night for you people in California!

10 & 11 February 2006


Friday we made very good use of the car. In the morning, we went to the post office and mailed the deposit registered mail to my credit union in Loma Linda. Then we drove down to the hardware store and Hiperneto, where we bought lots of things, loaded them into the car, and drove home.

At about 11:00 or 11:30, we got in the car and headed for IKEA, which is in Natanya. We got there about 1:00. We did a lot of looking around and we ate there, but we didn't buy anything. Mostly, we just needed to get a good idea of what they had and what they charged for things. We had hoped to see an old-fashioned rocking chair there, but they didn't have any. We also looked at armoirs, but we hadn't measured our spaces, so we weren't sure exactly what would fit. Still, we did get a pretty good idea of what is available.

IKEA closes at 3:00 on Friday afternoon and doesn't open again until an hour after sundown on Saturday night. We actually left a little while before 3:00 and headed for Tel Aviv, where we were planning to attend Friday evening services at Tiferet Shalom, our favorite synagogue in Israel, which we had not been able to get to since we arrived here because we had no car. We arrived way early, which was good, because we needed to find their new location. I had written ahead to Rabbi Lazar that we were planning to be there, and he had given me their new address.

The service was really WONDERFUL! It was so good to hear and be able to sing some familiar melodies. And Rabbi Lazar has a way of making quiet, almost poetic, comments (in Hebrew) that help one get into the right kavanah, the right frame of mind, for a really spiritual and emotional experience. The fact that I was able to understand a fair amount of what he was saying was also very moving for me.

We left northern Tel Aviv (Ramat Aviv, where the University is) at about 7:30 and arrived back home in Tsfat at about 9:30. We were tired, but we had had a wonderful day. Now we're quite certain that we need to try to somehow get a car.

Today (Saturday), we again made good use of the car. We left the house at about 8:30 or 9:00 and headed north along the western rim of the Hula Valley. We stopped at several places, and I took LOTS of pictures of wild flowers, scenery, and cattle. I haven't had time to post them yet, but I will try to get them up onto Yahoo soon.

We drove all the way up to Metula, which is right next to the Lebanon border, at the northern end of the Hula Valley. In fact, I think the area of Lebanon north is really an extension of the same valley, known to them as the Bekaa. I also took a lot of pictures of Metula and Lebanon, showing how close the houses and orchards are to the border.

After that, we drove up to the Golan, where I took pictures of Har Khermon, the highest point in Israel, which is covered with lots of snow. There was also snow along the road where we drove. Then we went up to Har Bental, one of a pair of peaks in the Golan which we can see from our house. Up there, one can see so much in every direction. One can also see the fortifications that were built to secure the area after it was seized from Syria during the war (the war where Syria had attacked Israel). We had some wonderful deserts at the restaurant there, and, again, I took LOTS of pictures. Then we drove home, getting back here at about 3:30 in the afternoon.

12 & 13 February


Sunday (the 12th) was a pretty regular day for us. We did get to get up a half hour later than usual, since we had the car. The agency was not open before 8:00, so I parked the car in a kanyon (shopping center) parking lot next to the mercaz klitah (where my class is), and then I turned it in during the half-hour break (9:30-10:00). In the evening, I had some work to do for Lambda, the educational company that I may be going to work for. As you may recall, they had given me a sample of a lesson before and after editing and then another lesson to be edited. So I did that, and I do think I made some good improvements. I sent it off to Stephanie before I went to bed.

Today (Monday), it was back to the busses. Shortly after arriving at school, David's pump sounded the alarm letting him know that it was out of insulin. He stayed at school until the break, but by that time his blood sugar levels had risen to well over 300 (they shouldn't get above about 126), so he really needed to get home and get some insulin into his system.

I stayed at school, however, but I left on the 1:10 bus rather than eating in Karmiel and leaving 40-45 minutes later like we usually do. When I was nearly back to the Tsfat central bus station, I called our friends, Pat & Sue, who were already in Tsfat. I joined them for some more tourist sightseeing, and then they and I and their guide, Rafi, piled into his car and drove over to our house. They were, of course, delighted to see us and we them, and they also really liked our house. It had been raining some, but it stopped long enough for us to plant 2 of the 3 trees that we had bought last week. David had already dug the holes for them, so it went quickly. Pat & Sue had fun helping David plant trees in Israel on Tu B'shvat, the New Year of the Trees!

14 & 15 February


Well, the 14th was a very regular day. There's really no celebration of Valentine's Day here in Israel, although the stores do stock some stuff. Apparently, Valentine's Day is as big in Russia as in the States. We did take time to do just a little shopping in Carmiel, though. You see, David had a big glass elephant with folded paper cranes in it that broke while being shipped over here. So we needed to find a new home for the cranes. We found a perfect bottle in a shop in Carmiel. The cranes are precious because they were made for David by a very good Chinese friend of his when David was quite sick. According to Chinese tradition, if someone folds a thousand paper cranes for a sick person, the person will get well.

This morning, there was a Tu B'shvat seder for all the ulpan students in Carmiel. My teacher, Shuli, thought that it was at the same place where they had had the Khanukah party (before we got here), so that's what she told the class. Since I didn't know where the place was, Shuli offered to give both me and David a ride there. But when we got there, all of my class was there, but no one else! She called and found out that the party was actually in the same building where David's class meets. Fortunately, that was not far away at all, and we just walked down there. So, were we late? Ha! They didn't start until after 9:00, which is a lot later than 8:00!

The seder was really nice. There were also 2 classes of 6th grade students from a local school. Several different groups of them sang and played recorders for us all. One of the most moving parts, for me, was when Efrat, our ulpan director, spoke. She compared new olim to the young trees that people plant on Tu B'shvat. With this kind of training in school, no wonder people here are universally welcoming of us new olim!

During the course of the seder, both ulpan students and 6th graders read various passages telling about the meaning of the seder. We drank grape juice and ate walnuts, dates, raisins, figs, and almonds. It was a nice experience for all of us.

Today, the winter weather returned (as predicted -- the weathermen do a MUCH better job of predicting the weather here than in SoCal). Luckily, it wasn't raining much in the morning, so we got to school, to the seder, and back to the mercaz klitah easily. But after class, it was coming down steadily. David & I ate our usual falafel and then went to the nearby kanyon to do a little shopping (and to be inside and dry until it was time to catch our bus!). David got a really pretty kufi-style kipah and a computer magazine, and I got a little notebook to keep track of new words that I read in the newspaper.

When we got back to Tsfat, it was cold, raining, and blowing. So we just called Asher and got a ride home. Then we worked a little on the house, David took a nap, and we had a dinner of curried vegetarian duck (the cans came in our shipment!) and baby corn.

16 February 2006


SNOW! This morning, when we opened the blinds before leaving for school, we saw snow. Well, it wasn't enough to cover the ground much of anywhere, but there was SOME on the ground in places. Of course, I rushed to take some pictures. When we actually left the house, we had to be VERY careful, because the snow on the walk and stairs made them VERY slippery. But we made it without incident. Once we got a ways from our house, we didn't see any more snow on the ground. But some flakes did fall and even a few stuck on our jackets as we walked to the bus stop.

When we got to Carmiel, it was raining and very cold. We bundled up good and trekked to class. It quit raining after a while, but the rain retuned periodically throughout the morning. About an hour before class was out, there was a bit of sunshine and then some HEAVY rain with hail. I was glad that I didn't have to be out at that particular time!

When we got back to Tsfat, we caught the #6 bus (which we had never ridden before) down to Hiperneto. But first we went to the hardware store next door and bought another plastic cabinet, this one only half height. We will use it as a stand for David's printer/scanner/copier (once we locate and unpack it). We will be able to access it from any computer on the network.

After that, we shopped at Hiperneto (now changing its name to SuperSal, which is a major grocery chain here in Israel that Hiperneto probably merged with, I'm guessing) and stocked up a bit on groceries. Then we called Asher, and he took David and all the things home. I stayed there, because I had an appointment with the Dr. Gold, just a short ways from there, to get my prescription refilled (apparently, here in Israel, one always has to visit the doctor to get a prescription refilled!).

I got to my appointment about 40 minutes early, so, of course, the doctor was not there yet. So I explored the neighborhood where his office is located. It's a residential area with lots of apartment buildings, not terribly interesting, but it was better than just sitting there on the wall. The air was cold, but at least the sun was shining!

After that, I walked up the hill to the Tsfat branch of the bank from whose Jerusalem branch we got our mortgage. I was supposed to get them to stamp my teudat oleh (my immigrant certificate) to show that I had exercised the right to government help with the mortgage. I think that this is done so that people don't try to get another mortgage on some other property, since one can only do it once. Anyway, when it was finally my turn, the woman helping me didn't know English. Luckily, I was able to explain well enough in Hebrew that she could look things up and make the necessary stamp, so I accomplished my mission. Then I caught the #3 bus to the pharmacy nearest our house, got my prescription filled and walked home after that. I got back about 5:45, in time to wake David from his nap, close all the blinds, and eat supper.

17 February 2006


Friday. The weekend. We got up late this morning, and we didn't go anywhere all day. I only left the house to take the trash to a big trash bin not too far away. We did get a LOT of work done, though. We have now sorted through most of the boxes that we had just piled into the big room. Many of them are now dispersed throughout the house, hopefully in the room where their contents will mostly end up. So the kitchen area is piled high with boxes, the middle upstairs bedroom has quite a few, and the office is just barely usable. But we've located all our computer equipment and both of David's sewing machines. This is important because, for some of these things, we will need an electrical transformer, since they require U.S. standard 110V power, and we need to know how many transformers and what size we will need.

We also found some of the canned food that we had brought with us: peanut butter (natural, NOT Skippy!), FriChik, California olives, pepperoncini, white asparagus spears, Grey Poupon, hot honey mustard, BBQ sauce, chili radishes, vegetarian chili, vegeburger, Heinz' Vegetarian Beans! So, for supper we had beans and weanies using Heinz' beans. Strangely enough, though, we both agreed that the vegetarian weanies we get here are better with the canned beans we got here!

The sunset was beautiful on Har Khermon this afternoon. I took several pictures, which I'll try to get uploaded to Yahoo later.

Shabbat Shalom!

18 February 2006


It was a very beautiful day out today, but neither of us felt like going out. It was cold out there, despite the lovely sunshine, and we just wanted to stay in and stay warm. We didn't even go to services.

We did both work on our homework, though. Usually, I try not to do school work on Shabbat, but this time it just seemed like the best thing to do. Osnat had assigned us to write an essay about our profession, using terminology from our profession. So I described how I prepare for my classes and teach them. I think it was a good learning experience for me. In particular, I learned the Hebrew words for "skill" and "skills", which (in transliteration) are "myumanut" and "myumanyot", respectively. What a mouthful!

I took quite a few pictures today, and I uploaded them, as well as many others, including some from our trip last Shabbat. The URL is:

http://photos.yahoo.com/arlanwareham

For some of the less obvious pictures, I have included titles, which you should be able to see if you view them individually or in a slide show. Enjoy!

19 & 20 February 2006


Sunday (the 19th) was a rather regular day. My teacher, Shuli, was sick, so we had a substitute, Hannah. She was really good! She spoke slowly and distinctly, she really commanded the class so that even the young, usually noisy Russian kids were quiet, and she really taught us some good things, too.

When we got back to Tsfat, we stopped at the nursery and bought 4 more lemon cypress trees (so that we now have 5 of them). We plan to make a row of them along the edge of our property on the side that is undeveloped now but that will eventually be developed. It will give us some privacy when they grow tall. Also, they are on the west-northwest side of the property, so they will shade the house from the hot summer afternoon sun (admittedly, it's been a little hard to think about being too HOT here lately!).

The nurseryman said that they could deliver the trees (and a couple bags of compost that we also bought there), so we just went out and waited for the bus. While we were still waiting, the delivery guy called me and wanted to know where our house was. According to the nurseryman, this guy had grown up in Tsfat and knew how to get everywhere in town, but, of course, our house is in a completely new area on a completely new (and still unpaved!) street. And NONE of the streets in the area even have names! Not even on the map! And certainly there are no street signs! So there was just no way to describe to him how to get to the house, even in English. Fortunately, I mentioned that we were still waiting for the bus right in front of the nursery. It turned out that he was right there, only 15 or 20 yards from us! So we just went over there, hopped into his little truck, showed him the way to our house, and got a ride home that way, too. Actually, the amount that I tipped him (15 skekels) was more than I pay Asher, out regular taxi driver, but it was worth it to get the things delivered and also to get home so quickly. And, of course, the delivery guy was pretty easy on the eyes, too! ;-)

Today (the 20th), we decided to walk about a mile and a half or two miles in Carmiel to a large, suburban style strip mall. It's at the next intersection along the main highway that goes by Carmiel, but we walked there along a parallel road in Carmiel itself. It was quite a long walk, and we had to stop part way because David's blood sugar was running low. I went into a nearby bakery that I spotted and bought him a couple to pastries to help bring him back up. Across the street from where we had stopped, David spotted a musical instruments store with the word "Yamaha". I have a Yamaha keyboard, and I wanted to find a transformer that I could use to power it from the electrical system here (220V) instead of the one that came with it which, of course, was for the U.S. system (110V). I found one and bought it (for 60 shekels, which is less than $13). So I was very happy about that!

When we got to the mall, the first order of business was to eat lunch. We went to a coffee shop called "Aroma" (but transliterated to Hebrew letters), and had a delicious salad and sandwiches. There was also bread that came with the salad, but we were full, so we brought that home with us in a sack. The menu was only in Hebrew, but I managed to figure it out well enough and to communicate our order in Hebrew, mostly (the worker, of course, also spoke English!).

After that, we checked out some other stores there, including Office Depot (yes, the same as in the U.S.!), Home Center (it's an Israeli chain called הום סנטר for those of you whose computer can display Hebrew letters; for the rest, that is simply a Hebrew transliteration of, you guessed it, "Home Center"!), the largest supermarket I've seem yet in Israel (it would put even our old favorite Stater Brothers in Colton to shame!), and a store whose sign said that they carried, among other animals, SNAKES! It was lying, though. They had no snakes at all and not even any sign of snake supplies or cages. Oh well!

By then, we were both rather exhausted. We caught the #361 bus back to Tsfat (of course, there is a bus stop right along the main highway near the mall!). The #4 came fairly quickly after we arrived in Tsfat, and we were home. David took a good nap, we ate supper, and now it's just about time for bed. We definitely got our exercise for today!

21, 22, & 23 February


Well, another 3-day stretch. I hope none of you out there are going into withdrawal (I know at least a FEW brave souls have been following this SOME of the time!). :-)

David has been having a rather strange problem. He'll be walking along, and, suddenly, one or both of his knees gives way. It's basically like the electrical system cut out briefly and then kicked back in. Sometimes, he'll be holding something and a similar thing happens with his hand or arm, and he'll drop or spill something. It may have a little to do with low blood sugar levels, but it doesn't correlate that well, so there has to be some other main cause, most likely an improper level of one or more of his meds. He was planning to go into Haifa to the HIV clinic on Wednesday to have it checked out, but, when he called, he was reminded that they only operate on Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday. So he'll go in on Sunday (and I'll go with him). The problem really worries him, because he could fall and get hurt, especially on our marble staircase. So far, he's always been able to catch himself well enough to prevent any injury. Today (Thursday), though, he stayed home, and I went to ulpan by myself.

The weather here has warmed up quite dramatically. By today, it was so warm that I didn't even take my jacket with me at all. Of course, I WAS still wearing thermal underwear (top and bottom) and a sweater. By afternoon, though, I even took the sweater off.

I came directly home today, without eating in Karmiel, so that I could catch the earlier bus back to Tsfat. After I got back, David & I walked over to the pizza place and enjoyed a pizza sitting outside in the warm sun. After a rather long wait, the bus finally came, and we rode it back up the hill (of course, we still had to walk from the bus stop).

I took some more pictures today near the house, including some of the house itself, some of kalaniot (gorgeous red wild flowers, of which we now have 3 right in our own yard, although the pictures are of one just across the street), and several of Mt. Khermon. You can see some of them on Yahoo, as usual, at:

http://photos.yahoo.com/arlanwareham

Enjoy!

24 February 2006


Today Victor, the plumber, came and fixed the leaks in all 3 of our bathrooms. Two of them were minor, but the one in the master bathroom put so much water on the floor that we effectively could not use the bathroom. There was no danger of flooding outside the room, though, since there IS a drain in the floor, and, also, there wasn't THAT much water. Anyway, hopefully they will all quit all their leaking now.

I walked into town after Victor had left. I think it's about 2 miles, and it's downhill or level just about all of the way. I went to the bakery, bought 2 challot and some pastries for Shabbat, and then I went over to the pet store to tell them how many mice of various sizes we will need. The girl there who speaks fluent English and is very friendly and helpful wrote down what we need, and she'll check on the prices and let us know before she actually orders them. After that, I waited at the nearby bus stop (by the nursery) for the #4 bus, which I rode home (walking 2 miles downhill is one thing; walking back UP is another!).

After lunch today, we planted 5 lemon cypress trees, 2 rose bushes, and 7 gladiolus bulbs. It actually went surprisingly easy, and it was very pleasant out today. I took some pictures of the trees and roses after we had planted them. I've uploaded some of them to a new album on Yahoo, together with a picture of the sun just as it rose this morning and another picture of it just before it set this evening.

Well, I guess that'll do for today. Shabbat Shalom!

25 February 2006


Today was not sunny for the most part, but it was also not cold. We took a fairly long walk, going part way down the canyon (I believe it's called "Nakhal Rosh Pinna") towards Rosh Pinna. There are wild flowers EVERYWHERE now: red ones (kalaniot), yellow ones, purple ones, blue ones, lavender ones, even pale orange ones. I took the camera with me and took about a hundred pictures. I've uploaded 16 of them and created yet another album on Yahoo. It's called "Shabbat walk 2006-02-25". Enjoy!

That's really about all that we did today. I did spend some time with "Google Earth", a free program that I downloaded from Google. It's AMAZING! Not only can one travel to any place on earth, one can also change the tilt so that the view is more horizontal and less vertical. Not all places are shown at maximum resolution, of course, but it is still astounding what one can see. I highly recommend checking it out. Just be sure that you have a high-speed internet connection. I don't think it would be worth even trying with only a dial-up connection. But if you have DSL or a cable modem (as we do), it's reasonably fast almost all of the time and very entertaining. Okay, well it's entertaining for ME, at least. But, then again, I get entertained by many things that no one else would even find interesting....

26 & 27 February


Sunday morning, we got up at our regular time and caught all our regular busses, but we traveled on to Haifa instead of getting off at Carmiel. Then we went over to the HIV clinic at Rambam Medical Center there in Haifa. They gave David his test results (all quite good, especially the fact that his viral load is undetectable), and they gave him a month's supply of HIV meds.

Just after we left the clinic, we sat down to check David's blood sugar levels and discovered that his insulin pump was behaving erratically. We went back up to the clinic to get some alcohol to clean the battery contacts (it seemed to be some kind of problem with the batteries). After we rode the bus back to the Mercaz HaMifratz bus station, we went over the nearby kanyon (Lev HaMifratz - Heart of the Gulf). There, we got Q-tips and alcohol to clean the battery contacts better. Then we stopped and ate some pizza. The pump seemed to be behaving better after that.

The Jewish Agency in Carmiel had found "buddies" for us there last week, and our buddy, Emil, had talked with me several times on the phone. We had arranged for them to meet us in person for the first time on Sunday afternoon at the Carmiel Central Bus Station when we returned from Haifa. So that is what happened. Emil made aliyah to Israel when he was only a baby (he's 58 now, and he came in 1948). He was a purchasing agent for El Al Airlines and speaks good English. He's retired now. His wife, who is younger, is from Russia. She made aliyah as a young woman with an elderly mother and a small daughter. She understands quite a bit of English but only speaks a very little. They are both wonderful people. She cooked a delicious vegetarian meal for us. After that, they took us to a place with a wonderful view, although, unfortunately, it was a very overcast day, and we couldn't see anything. Still, it was a lovely place up high on top of the hills back of Carmiel. After that, they brought us back home to Tsfat, not long before dark. We all had a really wonderful time together, talking Hebrew and English and even a bit of French.

When we got home, though, we discovered that David's pump was really not working. We managed to get a hold of a MiniMed representative (the maker of the pump) who speaks English, and she scheduled a visit with us for Tuesday morning. But David also needed to get some slow-acting insulin, which he does not need when the pump is working. So we called his doctor here in Tsfat and made an appointment for first thing Monday morning (it was already too late to get an appointment for Sunday evening).

So this morning (Monday), David rode over with me on the local bus to town, but he continued on to his doctor's appointment while I traveled to Carmiel for my ulpan class. As it turned out, not only was he able to meet his doctor, the MiniMed representative, Tali, came THIS morning, met him as the Central Bus Station, and took him back to our house. She determined that the problem was merely bad batteries and gave him some good ones. So that problem seems to be solved now.

Meanwhile, at the ulpan, I was learning so much. On Mondays and Thursdays, our teacher is Osnat, and she is SO excellent! I always go away feeling that I've really gotten things into my head better than before class. For me, the most important thing is to get the language onto my tongue and up to speed. My vocabulary is not so bad (although, of course, there's always room for improvement), but I have trouble coming up quickly with the right word and the right verb form. Osnat is particularly good at helping me with this.

When I returned to Tsfat after class, David met me at the Central Bus Station, and we went to eat at the Mountain View Cafe in town, so named because of its wonderful view of Mt. Meron, to the west of Tsfat. Zion had taken me to this restaurant several times when I was here last summer, so I knew that the food was delicious, and we were not disappointed.

After that, I took David on a little walk down from there to the area where all the tourists go and where most of the shops that sell tourist things are located. I wanted him to see the kinds of things they sell and to think about whether we might find a way to sell the kippot that he crochets somewhere there.

Next, we proceeded to the Pelaphone store (where we got our phones - "pelaphone" is a word made from the word for "miracle" and, of course, "phone"!). I had used up my minutes and needed to get a re-charge.

The other thing that we needed to do in town was to arrange to get mice for our snakes. We had to wait a while for the girl there who speaks English well and who was arranging the mice for us. She wasn't able to get all that I wanted, but there will be enough to get the snakes started when they will be ready to eat in about 2 weeks. She had live ones, so they needed to be frozen, and we had to help her figure out how to do it. With some tsuris (and a mouse or 2 that nearly escaped!), we managed to get the job done, and I paid for the mice. In a couple of days, I'll go over and pick them up frozen.

While we were waiting for the pet store girl (is that anything like a Pet Shop Boy???), we went to check out what aronot (closets) were available at the furniture store. There seems to be a standard size, and, without exact measurements, I'm afraid that it's slightly too wide for the spots that are available in the master bedroom and in the adjacent bedroom for closets. We'll have to measure exactly and see. As you may know, houses in Israel usually do not have built-in closets!

By the time we finally got home, it was nearly dark, and the wind was blowing and making me rather cold. Because of the warm day, I only had my sweater but no jacket with me (of course, I WAS wearing my thermal underwear, top and bottom!). Still, I was very glad to finally get inside the house and out of the wind!

28 February & 1 March 2006


On Tuesday morning (28 February) David did not feel good. In the morning, he vomited just before we left the house. Since he had already taken insulin to cover the breakfast he had eaten, we had to quickly grab some food that he could eat on the way to avoid having a severe insulin reaction (low blood sugar due to insulin entering his system without carbohydrates available to digest). By the time school was out, we were at the point of deciding whether to go to the hospital in Carmiel or to return to Tsfat and go to the hospital here. He was feeling dizzy and even had some tingling. He also got some wildly fluctuating blood sugar readings from his meter, leading us to believe that it might not be working correctly. However, on the bus on the way home, as he began to cool off (it was the warmest day we've had here yet), he began to feel better. I had already called and gotten an appointment with Dr. Gold for 4:45 in the evening.

When we got back to Tsfat, he felt quite a bit better. We ate lunch (delicious falafel at a place in downtown Tsfat where we had never eaten before - there are LOTS of falafel stands in that area!). We needed some groceries, so we got some at the convenient market near the bus stop, called Asher, the taxi driver, took the groceries home, put the milk in the refrigerator while Asher waited, and had him take us back to town to the doctor's office. We hoped that the doctor would give us a prescription for a new meter. Instead, he didn't seem to even understand the meaning of the readings (standard numbers that ANY NURSE in the U.S. would immediately comprehend!). He told us that we would have to see the Maccabi (our HMO) diabetes nurse, who would be at the Maccabi office downtown from about 9:00 to sometime in the afternoon. We didn't say much to him, but we actually left his office furious at his incompetence and lack of caring at all! Strike one for Dr. Gold!

We decided to get some supper at the pizza place in Sharei Ha-Ihr (gates of the city), the small kanyon not too far from our house. By now, the guy there knows what we order (although it turned out that he had forgotten the tomatoes). They always have a music channel playing on the TV. The host is this young guy who is always talking to a smaller-than-life-size papier-maché horse as though it were real. And they pretty much seem to play a relatively small selection of music videos over and over, all, or nearly all, of them in Hebrew. There is one that we've now seen 2 or 3 times that is the story of the Wizard of Oz, except that it's all in Hebrew, Dorothy is this sexy young girl in a very short miniskirt who is always dancing provocatively and showing her undies, Toto is a pug who raps and sings, the scarecrow and the lion and the tin man are all cute young hunks who rap (remember, this is all in Hebrew!), and the Wicked Witch of the West is a slinky girl all in green who would make Elvira look matronly and who melts into a green puddle after a bitch fight with Dorothy! The Wizard doesn't appear at all! I really can't pick out many of the lyrics, but it's still a very funny video.

Today, David felt MUCH better. His class also went much better.

After class yesterday while we were waiting for the bus in Carmiel, my main teacher, Shuli, called me on my cell phone. The entire conversation was in Hebrew. She told me that she and the other teacher, Osnat, and the director of the ulpan, Efrat, had discussed my situation and my progress in Hebrew and were recommending that I move to a more advanced class. I had already been thinking along the same lines, so I readily agreed.

So, today I began in a new class with a new teacher, Naomi. Actually, several students were reshuffled, so really they formed a new class. This is going to work really well for me. All of the students are serious, none are really beginners any more, and Naomi really knows how to get us to learn and, more importantly, to use what we are learning. Now I should be able to progress even faster. This is exactly what I need!

We returned to Tsfat today on the first bus we could catch rather than eating in Carmiel and catching the later bus. As soon as we got here, we headed straight for the Maccabi office to visit the diabetes nurse. That was when we discovered that the entire office was closed and would not re-open until 4:00. Strike two for Dr. Gold!

So we headed over to the same falafel shop where we ate yesterday and had another delicious falafel. Then we headed down the other side of the hill to the shuk (remember, it only happens on Wednesdays). We only bought some nuts and a couple of yams this time.

After stopping to buy and drink a couple of Pepsi Max's to keep ourselves hydrated, we headed up to the barber shop to see if I could get a haircut before Maccabi opened again. Alas, the barber was also closed! After resting and talking a bit while enjoying the warm afternoon and the view across towards K'naan (another hill in Tsfat), we went back over to the Maccabi office took get in line to see the diabetes nurse. When they opened, I told the nurse sitting at the desk, in Hebrew, that we were there to see the diabetes nurse. She said that the diabetes nurse wasn't there but gave me her number. Strike three for Dr. Gold! He's out! I called the diabetes nurse, Nora, at the number given me and found out that she was at the Maccabi clinic next to Sharei Ha-Ihr, the kanyon not far from our house. She spoke English quite well and seemed nice on the phone, so we set out to get over there.

While we were sitting waiting for the bus, along came Zion and gave us a ride over to the Maccabi clinic. Sure enough, Nora was there and was very nice, very knowledgeable, very caring, and very helpful. Her English wasn't perfect, but I'll be happy if my Hebrew EVER gets as good as her English! She gave us a number to get an appointment next Wednesday with an endocrinologist who is at that clinic once a week. She also recommended a good doctor at the Maccabi downtown clinic who speaks English.

Finally, we returned home, just before dark, ate some supper, and did some homework. It's been a long but productive and encouraging day.

Kitty Katom is getting more and more comfortable here in the house. He's playing with string and rubber bands that he finds, and he's purring a lot. He really enjoys hanging out near wherever we may be in the house. He came down to meet us right after we came in the door today.

2 & 3 March 2006


The title for Thursday (2 March) is "Where's the post office?" Melissa had sent us a package with 2 skeins of yarn that David had requested, to make kipot. We got the notice in our PO box that it had arrived on the 28th of February. So we planned to pick it up at the post office. We knew that they didn't open until 3:30, so we waited patiently (and also got a few other things done in town). When David went in to get it (since it was sent to him), they informed him that it was at the OTHER post office. Only when he told me this did I remember that someone had mentioned something to us about another post office, over near the college. So, we headed over there. When we got there, they didn't have the package either; it was at yet ANOTHER post office! About that time, Zion happened to drive by. Apparently there are at least FOUR post offices in Tsfat! He pointed out that it said "k'naan" on the slip that we had gotten. We found out that there was a post office in Sharei Ha-Ihr, the kanyon nearest to us. Now we had never NOTICED one there before, and, even when we went all over the building (and asked several people), we couldn't locate it. Finally, I managed to find it. It opens ONLY to the parking area, which is on the second floor. Cars can drive into there from the BACK side of the building (on a side street). Anyway, the package was there, and I managed to pick it up.

Meanwhile, during the whole afternoon, Yehuda, the guy in Jerusalem who makes transformers to convert Israeli electricity to U.S. electricity, had been trying to get us connected with the company with whom he had shipped our transformers. Finally, we managed to get the package (VERY heavy!) and get it home.

After that, we were pretty tired, so we decided to treat ourselves to a nice dinner in town. Of course, this meant another wait for the bus, but it was worth it. We ended up eating a wonderful meal of ravioli in alfredo sauce (sinfully delicious!) at the Mountain View restaurant (so named because of its beautiful view of Mt. Meron, to the northwest of Tsfat). We were the only customers there during the whole time.

In the U.S., you thank G-d for Friday because it's the last workday of the week. Here in Israel, it's already the weekend! So we slept in (well, actually DAVID slept in -- I woke up at about the usual time, a little after 5:00). I did get a lovely picture of the sky somewhat before the sunrise. We had a leisurely breakfast of scrambled eggs and peanut butter sandwiches (with natural peanut butter that we had shipped with our things, not the Skippy which is the only kind we can get here!). Then we set out for town. We got our weekly Shabbat challah and pastries, and we went over to the furniture store to get some armoires. Remember, we have NO closet in the house. This time, we had measured, so we knew what our size limits were. We ended up ordering two 3-door armoires (the maximum size that will fit in the master bedroom and the bedroom next to it) and a 4-door armoire, which will fit with no problem in the big bedroom, which is 5 steps up from the living room level.

This afternoon, we planted more plants. David had gotten several herbs, some of which we planted in a couple of window boxes sitting on the front porch near the front door (the northwest side of the house), and the rest of which we planted along the edge of the patio (on the east side of the house).

We now have at least 15 kalaniot flowers blooming in our yard, 11 in the yard next to the front porch and 4 more in the yard next to the patio. They are the most beautiful WILD flowers that I have ever seen! In addition, there are several other kinds of wild flowers blooming in the yard.

This evening, we put together the second of the 3 plastic shelving units that we had bought to put the snake terraria on. This is a big pain, because there are places in the holes where the plastic was not properly trimmed at the factory, so we have to cut plastic out painstakingly with a utility knife. Even then, it hard to get everything to fit together properly and get the shelves all level. Anyway, we got it together fairly well. We need to keep working on this so that we can get the snakes set up in their cages with heat so that they will be able to begin eating again. Breeding season is coming up fast!

4 & 5 March 2006


On Shabbat morning (4 March) we decided to go for a walk since it was a beautiful sunny day. We walked to Park HaPsalim (Park of the Statues, or, if you're a bit impish, "Park of the Idols"!). There are some interesting statues there, and I took a lot of pictures of them when I was here last summer. When we got there on Shabbat, however, the gate to the park was locked shut! Of course, we could still see the statues, we just couldn't get very close to them. Anyway, we continued our walk along the main highway in the direction of Rosh Pinna. This way, we got to see an area of town that we hardly ever pass through, even though it's not far from where we live. It was an enjoyable walk, with beautiful flowers, a photogenic synagogue, and several lovely houses. We also heard a bird song that we haven't heard before. It is a very insistent song, short but repeated over and over in rapid succession. It reminded David of the barker at the shuk (he actually RECORDS his shpiel and plays it over and over, very loudly: shtaim v'khetzi, shtaim v'khetzi, shtaim v'khetzi (2 and a half, 2 and a half, 2 and a half). So we nicknamed this bird (we didn't see it, so we have no idea what it looks like) the "shtaim v'khetzi bird".

In the afternoon, I began unwrapping all the snake terraria that we had shipped. We already knew, from the glass rattling sound, that one of them was broken. I discovered that another had a small crack that I taped easily allowing it to be used, and a third one had the end glass piece shattered due to the plug-in cord that was taped to the end of it (as the cords were to the ends of ALL of them, though, thankfully, that was the only one that shattered). I also set up all the cords (each terrarium has an electric heating pad at one end) connected to the one U.S. (110V) outlet from the transformer in the snake room (way down at the lowest level of the house). We have another transformer up in the study that we will use when we set up our computer network (so far, I only have my laptop, which I can run from the Israeli electricity directly using a world travel kit that I bought from Apple last summer for my ulpan trip).

In the evening, we began the process of putting substrate, hide boxes (mostly empty cereal boxes), and water bowls in each cage and bringing the snakes back up from their winter naps. Two of the 35 snakes didn't make it through the winter: Yitzkhak, one of our babies from last summer, and Batya, one of our girls from 2004, who was always small for her age. The rest, though, were fine. We got 22 of the 33 put into cages Saturday night, and the rest we did tonight (Sunday evening).

This morning at ulpan, after the first break, they split all of the ulpan students from all of the classes up into 3 groups for lectures about Purim. The lectures were in Russian, Spanish, and English. Of course, I don't know what happened in the Russian and Spanish groups, but for the English-speakers they had the rabbi from the Masorti (Conservative) synagogue in Carmiel to talk with us. His name is Tzvi Landau, and he made aliyah from New York 10 years ago. He asked us a lot about ourselves and our reasons from coming to Israel, and he related the story of Esther to the experiences of Jews in the diaspora throughout history. He also explained the many customs surrounding Purim and told us about observances that will be happening in Carmiel.

During the second break, my teacher, Naomi, came up to me and told me that each class will be making a presentation at the ulpan Purim party, which will be on Thursday morning. Her plan is for our class to present the Swan Lake Ballet, in tutus! Well, she didn't have to ask ME twice! LOL

6 & 7 March 2006


We had our first "Swan Lake" rehearsal Monday (6 March). Our ballet troupe consists of 6 guys. Four of them are basically a chorus, and the other 2 are the white swan and the black swan (you see, these Russians know the story, whereas we Americans have only heard the music!). Guess who gets to be the white swan: yep, yours truly! LOL Ivan, the 20-year-old from Russia, will be the black swan. This will not be beautiful, but it WILL be VERY funny!

Today, Tuesday, we had a substitute teacher named Michal in my class. She was really good, and we spent most of the class learning about how to form adverbs from nouns to describe HOW some action is done. It was also good for building vocabulary.

After class, David & I ate falafel in Carmiel, caught the bus to Tsfat, and caught the local bus home, arriving here shortly after 3:00. After drinking a glass of Diet Coke, David lay down for his nap, and I headed back into town to pick up the frozen mice from the pet store. I came home by taxi so that the mice would not start to thaw on the way. When I got home, I put them right into the little freezer that will be only for mice.

After supper, we showered, and I helped David with his homework. I don't think I mentioned it, but last week they finally got the sliding glass door installed to divide the shower from the rest of the master bathroom. Before that, if we showered, the entire bathroom floor got wet. Now it's wonderful! The shower area, which is quite large, is all that gets wet, because we have nice, clear sliding glass doors. We had to pay 2200 extra shekels for them, but they are definitely worth it!

Since there's not so much news today, perhaps this would be a good time to tell about the latest addict in our household. First, a little background. Here in Israel, in the dairy section, they have cartons of something called "bulgarit", which just means "Bulgarian". What it is, though, is a slightly salty cross between sour cream and cream cheese. Several weeks ago, David was cooking eggs, and I was fixing toast. When we turned back to the table, there was a certain feline who lives here (that would be Katom!), licking right out the open bulgarit container on the table! Well, needless to say, we don't leave the container open any more. But we did start giving him a little bit on our finger each morning. Now, he can hardly wait. Any time we sit down at the table, he sits on a chair right beside David and hopes that he'll get some bulgarit. If I take the container out of the refrigerator, his pupils immediately dilate! We may have to send him to Bulgarit Addicts Anonymous! He such a sweet kitty, though.

8 March 2006


My teacher, Neomi, was back today. After class, we had another rehearsal for our fabulous (ha ha ha!) Swan Lake ballet tomorrow. She brought the paper tutus for the chorus "girls" today, and tomorrow she'll also brings tutus for the white (me) and black (Ivan) swans. I'm going to bring a few other costume goodies in case anyone wants to use them.

Other than that, not too much to report today. I did get the printer plugged into the transformer and found, to my relief, that it works fine. I even managed to print out my Hebrew resume, which Neomi has promised to check for me. We were worried about whether the printer would work since ink leaked out of it through the side vents while it was in transit here. Fortunately, this doesn't seem to have caused any problems with its functioning at all.

9 & 10 March 2006


On Thursday morning, it was very windy here at our house, but, luckily, the predicted rain had not yet started. When we got to Carmiel, we headed on down to the building where David's class is held, since that is where the Purim party was to be.

The first hour and a half or so, we were mostly making cheesy costumes: funny paper hats and masks with glitter and bright dots. Then the program began. The first class to present was David's class. They presented a short play, giving the highlights of the Esther story. Then my former class did a funny play with Dr. Ivan, a psychologist, seeing the king, Haman, Esther & Mordecai, and a very pregnant woman who seemed to have some difficulty identifying who the father of the baby might be.

After those presentations, there were some games while the 6 of us guys from my class got into costume for our ballet. Our teacher, Neomi, was the emcee for the whole morning. So when we were ready, she gave us a huge billing as "the world-famous Carmiel ballet company". It was really hysterical. We only followed what little choreography we had at a distance. After we left, the audience demanded an encore, so we came back out and did it again, with even less attention to choreography!

If you would like to see pictures (I KNEW you would!), I've posted 46 of the best pictures that we got from the whole Purim party. David took most of them (including ALL of the ones of our wonderful ballet troupe!). Just go to:

http://photos.yahoo.com/arlanwareham

and check out the album entitled "Ulpan Purim Party 2006". Enjoy!

After the party, David & I walked up and got some falafel. We sat down to eat at a table on the sidewalk, but after a while, a light rain started, so we moved inside. That was only the beginning. It wasn't too bad while we were in Carmiel. By the time we got back to Tsfat, it was worse, and, of course, it's always colder in Tsfat because of the much higher elevation. By the time we got off the number 4 bus for the walk home, it was AWFUL! The worst part was the wind, which guaranteed that we would get soaked, which we certainly did.

We were both so tired, that we cranked up the heat in the bedroom and lay down, both of us, for a nap. But we couldn't sleep too long, because David had his first appointment with the endocrinologist, Dr. Adawi, at 5:20 at the Maccabi clinic near Sharei Ha-Ihr. When we left the house, at about quarter to 5:00, the weather was even worse: still lots of wind and now a bit of small hail, as well. Stupid me, I didn't even THINK of calling the taxi until we were already soaked and nearly to the bus stop anyway. By then, there really wasn't much point. Then we had to wait quite a while at the bus stop, too. It's fairly well sheltered, so we didn't get much wetter. Finally, the bus came, and we got over to the clinic without further incident.

The doctor was running late. And, in typical Israeli fashion, there's no such thing as a line. People just barge right on in whenever they can. While we were waiting, two younger women and an older woman arrived. When the doctor was free, the older woman, who was the LAST to arrive, tried to just walk right on in. David went in and told the older woman, in very fractured Hebrew, that he was first. Finally, she backed off, but even the doctor wasn't very helpful. He didn't seem to be that great a doctor, either. At least, unlike Dr. Gold, he knew what the blood sugar numbers mean! But he seemed more worried about the fact that David's blood pressure was slightly higher than it should be. Duh! Do you think the rude woman just MIGHT have had something to do with that!

After that, we went over to the nearby New-Pharm pharmacy to pick up a prescription that we had left there last week and to get the new one filled. We also picked up 2 or 3 other items that we needed. Then we called Asher, the taxi driver, to take us home. It had been an exhausting day!

Today (Friday), we mostly took it easy. We finally walked out to catch the bus, but we saw it go by while we were still walking down the hill. We figured that, instead of going into town, we might as well just walk over to the market at Sharei Ha-Ihr and get the things we needed there. Sure enough, even though we were walking along the #4 route all the way, no bus passed us. So we got what we needed at the market there (including a delicious large challah). Then we did wait and catch the #4 home (which saves us from having to climb most of the steepest part of the hill).

The rest of the day, I uploaded and titled pictures, showered, transferred some clothes from the over-crowded middle bedroom to the new aron (closet) in the big room, and began to get ready to set up our computer network. David mostly slept, we he really needed to do. We did have a good lunch and a delicious but simple supper.

I called Emil, our Israeli friend in Carmiel, today. Tomorrow, he and his wife, Lena, are going to drive up here to visit us, and then we may go somewhere else in their car if all of us (or even SOME of us) are so inclined. It should be an enjoyable visit in any case.

11 & 12 March


On 11 March, Emile and Lena arrived here sometime a little after 11:00. We showed them all of the house, including the snakes. Actually, in fact, we started in the snake room (at the lowest level of the house). Lena knew more about snakes than Emile, so she was explaining to him how they spend the winter.

After that, we sat down to a simple but delicious lunch. Lena had brought a wonderful Russian salad, and we fixed tea and some corn shnitzels. Then we just sat and chatted about all kinds of things. Lena understands quite a bit of English, especially when David is talking, since he speaks more slowly and distinctly. I also found that I could pick up most of what Lena and Emile said in Hebrew, and David also understood quite a bit. All in all, it was a very enjoyable experience for all of us. I found out that Lena likes to go on the computer and on the internet a lot, so I got her e-mail address, and we have already exchanged a couple of e-mails, in Hebrew.

Today, 12 March, we went on the ulpan tiyul (trip) to Rosh Pina and Tel Chai. Now, I had certainly been to those places before, but not to the specific parts that we went to. More significantly, I didn't know that either was important in Israeli history. Those of you who know this history better than I did until today will just have to forgive my ignorance. Anyway, here are the stories.

Until the 1880's, there really were essentially no Jews living in the Land who actually earned their living FROM the land. A group of Zionist Jews in Romania decided to find a place here where they could move and work the land (do agriculture). They sent a delegate here, and in February, he found a lovely place with plenty of running water and everything green. They were able to buy some land, and they came and founded a town, one of the very first Zionist settlements in the Land. But there were some serious problems. First, none of them really knew ANYTHING about agriculture! Also, by July or August, there was no water at all coming from the springs that fed the creek, and everything was dry and brown instead of green. Eventually, Baron Rothschild, a very wealthy European Zionist, helped them, and they were able to learn enough agriculture to make a living from the land, but it was not at all easy. And where was this town? Rosh Pina, on a few short kilometers down the hill from our house, further down the same valley where we walked a little over a week ago! I had no idea about this history until today! The name of the town, by the way, comes from the psalm that says, "The stone that the builders rejected has become the chief cornerstone." Rosh Pina means "chief cornerstone".

Tel Chai is also important in Israeli history. After World War I, much of the Middle East, including all of what is now Israel, Jordan, Lebanon, and Syria, went from the control of the defeated Ottoman Empire to the allies, in this case, the British and the French. This much I knew before. I also knew that the British got "Palestine" (which included almost all of what is now Israel) and that the French got Lebanon. I had assumed that the current line between Israel and Lebanon was drawn at that time. It turns out that that is not exactly the case. In particular, the extreme north of Israel, the Khulah Valley and the mountains west of it, were an area where it was not yet clear whether the British or French would control it. The Jews had settlements in this area, including Tel Chai, but the British were not interested in protecting them. The Arabs began to attack more and more. To make a long story short, they attacked Tel Chai, and 8 Jews died. The most famous was Trumpledore (whom I DID know a little about). His famous quote just before he died was, "It is good to die for our country." The fact that the Jews were able to defend themselves eventually in this region had a definite effect on where the boundaries were eventually drawn, which ultimately led to Jewish control of the strategically important Khulah Valley and the mountains directly above it. The city of Kiriat Shmona ("Town of Eight") is named in their honor. Near Tel Chai is a memorial to these 8 people, a statue of a roaring lion. Their deaths occurred on 11 Adar, so yesterday was their 86th yahrzeit (anniversary of their death). So today there was a big ceremony at the memorial, which speeches, a troupe of soldiers, singers, and VIPs laying wreaths at the statue. It was quite impressive and moving!

After that, we drove on the highway that goes through the mountains west of the Khulah Valley instead of returning through the valley. Near the kibbutz of Menara, the road goes right along the Lebanon border. This is the same road that I had been on twice before, first last summer, and second on the weekend when David & I rented a car. Also at Menara is the mountain station of the cable cars (the valley station is just south of Kiriat Shmona. The view there was very spectacular, since the air was quite clear today.

On the way back, the bus dropped us off at the junction where the road goes up to Tsfat. We waited there about 20 minutes, until the next #361 bus came by and rode back up to Tsfat for only 7.6 shekels each (as opposed to 21.5 from Carmiel to Tsfat). Most importantly, we saved a lot of time and thus got home MUCH earlier.

This evening, I got our computer network up and mostly working. There are still a few problems to be ironed out, which I will work on tomorrow (we now have Mo, Tu, and We off from school, for the Purim holiday). I can't access the internet through the network, but I CAN access from my desktop Mac (instead of from my Mac laptop, which is all I have had up until now).

13, 14, & 15 March


Monday started out fairly slowly and restfully for us. After all, it was our first day of holiday from school! In the afternoon, I called and connected with tech support from the cable company. I wanted to get our computer network hooked up so that all of the computers could access the internet simultaneously. It took quite a while (and cost me an additional 49 shekels), but it was well worth it, and there's no way that I could possibly have done it by myself.

On Tuesday, we planned to go to Carmiel (I know, we just COULDN'T stay away!). First, we had noticed a tall building there that said "Call Center" up near the top of it. David wanted to go there and apply for a job. Second, Tsvi Landau, the rabbi of the Masorti (Conservative) synagogue there, was having a Purim party at his house, and he had invited us. He also agreed to meet us at the large shopping area there next to the building with the call center at 4:15 to pick us up and take us to his house.

So we left home early, ate lunch in town here in Tsfat, and headed for Carmiel. When we got to the call center building, the guard, who apparently spoke no English, was just going to take David's resume and dismiss him. Of course, this was not acceptable to us. Fortunately, several people in the lobby jumped to help us and talked to him in Hebrew. He then gave us a phone number to call. We went over to the Office Depot nearby, sat in a couple of the comfortable office chairs there, and called the number. Elite, who answered, was very nice and invited David to come right on up!

It turns out that the call center is the on-line help center for an on-line gambling company! She set up an appointment for David to return on Wednesday (today) for some tests to see how suitable he might be for the job.

After that, we had plenty of time to browse the stores of the shopping center. We spent a good part of the time in the Steimatzky book store. I didn't end up actually buying anything, but David found a multi-language speaking translator that he decided to get.

We also went over to the Super-Pharm store and got a blood-pressure machine to use at home. We want to find out if David is really having high blood pressure much of the time or if it's only an occasional occurance, such as happened at the last doctor's visit.

Finally, I had to take David in to see the HUGE supermarket there. It's really bigger than most of the markets I've seen in the U.S., and it's very well stocked, too! We looked around quite a bit, but we didn't buy anything, since we already had quite a bit to carry and we still had a party to go to.

Tsvi picked us up as planned, and we went to the party. It was really a party of mostly Americans, except for 2 Russian girls who were there. I worried a little that they might feel left out, since almost all of the conversation was in English and they clearly spoke only Russian and Hebrew, but they seemed to have a great time. I was careful not to drink too much (because it's not a pleasant feeling for me), but I still did drink a bit more than usual. I was certainly still far from being drunk, of course. We left fairly early, and Tsvi's wife, Julie, drove us over to the Carmiel central bus station, where we caught the #846 to Tsvat. Then we took local bus #4 home and went pretty much directly to bed. We were tired, but it had been a good day.

Today, we got up about an hour and a half later than on a school day, since David's appointment at the call center was at 10:00. While we were eating breakfast, the rain and hail began, so I called Asher to arrange for him to pick David up from the house and get him to the Tsfat bus station in time for the 9:05 bus to Carmiel. This actually gave us about an hour of extra time, since we didn't have to allow for the vagaries of the #4 bus.

Meanwhile, I was preparing to feed the snakes for the first time since early December. Since our snake setup here is very different, and the house is also very different, I needed to develop an entirely new routine for feeding. I was able to work it out quite well. The only problem I had was that the electricity went off, so I need to open window blinds for light. It wasn't until afternoon that I found that it was merely a circuit breaker that had switched off (I thought that none were off, but apparently I didn't look closely enough!). Anyway, most of the snakes ate well, and all of them seemed to be fine.

At the call center, they gave David 3 e-mails such us one might receive from customers and had him write responses to them. They said he could use their suggested answers, but they encouraged him to be creative as well. Afterwards, they said that they would call him, but, so far, they have not. Probably they'll contact him tomorrow sometime.

In the afternoon, I unpacked a whole stack (4 or 5 boxes) of my things, mostly books, in the office. If I can keep doing this, little by little the house will get in order and things will all get put away.

Over all 3 days, I did numerous loads of laundry, so that nearly all of our clothes are clean now. The washer and dryer are smaller here, so the load size is only about half of the size in the U.S.

16 March 2006


Back to school today! We started my class with the teacher putting us in pairs (generally pairs where Hebrew would be the only language in common!) and having each one tell the other about what he/she did during the holiday (3 days off from school plus, for some of us, also Sunday on the tiyul). Then, of course, we had to relate to the class what the other person told us. Mostly, Neomi (my teacher) used all of this as an opportunity for us to practice the Hebrew we knew and, maybe even more importantly, to learn new words and expressions. I just hope that I can manage to remember at least a few of them!

They called David today from the call center (while he was napping, of course!) to schedule an interview for him on Sunday at 10:30. So, the likelihood of him getting the job is increasing! We both hope that this will prove to be a good opportunity for him (and for us!).

We went into town again this evening to pick up our bank debit cards so that we'll be able to access the money in our accounts. Until now, money went into our accounts (from the sal klitah), but only a little went out (in automatic payments to the kupat cholim and, so far, one mortgage payment). We have been living almost entirely on money from the U.S., but it's about time to start using a little of our money here, as well. Like ANYTHING involving any office here, doing business at the bank is a slow and tedious process. Once we got to see Meir, our English-speaking guy at the bank, he checked and found that our cards were indeed ready, but we had to go to a different station to actually get them. So, that meant more waiting. But at least we did eventually get them.

After that, we ate at the Mountain View cafe (delicious, as always!), picked up a few things at the market, and headed home. One game of dominoes and a few quick checks on the computer, and now it's time for bed!

17 & 18 March 2006


The weekend! On both Friday and Saturday, I spent quite a bit of time unpacking boxes, mostly of books. Some went onto the bookshelves here in our office, some were cookbooks that went down to the kitchen for later shelving, and many were various other books. The last category went to one of the 3 bookcases that line our hallway. These are the old-fashioned kind of bookcase, which is hard to find nowadays. They were mostly my Mom's bookcases that we shipped here, and they are just deep enough for actual books and are NOT designed to house things like VCRs or stereo systems.

I also got the one remaining problem with the computers fixed so that my MIDI (Musical Instrument Digital Interface) system works properly. Basically, this means that Digital Performer, the sequencing program on my Mac, can play the digitized pipe organs that play by means of Hauptwerk, the digital organ program that runs only on my PC. Also, I can play the organs from my Yamaha keyboard, and I can use the Yamaha to enter notes into Digital Performer. So everything is now set up like it was in San Bernardino.

Other than a quick trip to Shaarei Ha-Ihr on Friday morning for a few groceries, we didn't leave the house at all this weekend. This morning (Shabbat morning), I looked out and saw that the cows were grazing just across the street from our house. So I grabbed my camera and took a whole bunch of pictures, some from the patio and some from the upstairs balcony (right next to the 3 bedrooms on the second floor). When I stood still on the patio, it was so quiet that I could actually hear the cows eating! I picked 10 of the pictures I took and posted them in a Yahoo album entitled "Cows on Shabbat morning" at:

http://photos.yahoo.com/arlanwareham

David spent some time this weekend preparing for his interview. He's put together questions he wants to ask and also answers to questions that they may ask him.

19, 20, & 21 March 2006


Wow! Three days again. Sunday morning, David had his interview at the call center. It seemed to go well, but they didn't call, and their training class was scheduled to start today. So, unless they're much more screwed up than we think, he apparently didn't get the job. Who knows what happened? Oh well, maybe it wouldn't have been such a great thing anyway.

On Sunday, while we were waiting for the bus in Carmiel, I noticed a cute soldier who was also waiting. Now, of course, this is NOT unusual at all; there are LOTS of cute soldiers everywhere here! What was interesting and unusual was that, when he got on his phone, I heard him talking in fluent French! When we got on the bus, he rode all the way to Tsfat. We were in the very back of the bus, and he was only a couple of rows ahead of us. Several times I saw him glance back towards us rather furtively. Was he cruising, or just checking out the 2 strange-looking Americans with our giant sunglasses (they are big because they fit OVER our regular glasses)? Anyway, he WAS very easy on the eyes!

On Monday, we took the taxi (with our favorite driver, Asher) home from the Tsfat bus station. We wanted to get home quickly so that David, who was very tired, could get a good nap before the guys arrived to put our new armoires (aronot) together. They had delivered the parts Sunday night but hadn't had time to assemble them then.

I had to leave before they were finished, because I needed to get to the post office (now that we know which one to go to!) before they closed at 6:00 to pick up another package of things that we had asked Melissa to send us. David stayed at home until they were done, then he walked over to meet me at Shaarei Ha-Ihr to eat pizza there. But it was quite a long time, so I took a walk up the road that goes off from the main road right next to the kanyon. I had never been up that road at all before. It turns out that it is very scenic and goes all the way up to the Canaan Spa, a large, beautiful, and luxurious hotel that we can see from our house (and from many places in Tsfat!). It's up at nearly the very highest point in Tsfat on Har K'naan (Mount Canaan). Anyway, there were some really wonderful views in all directions from way up there, and I enjoyed it so much that I didn't even mind that it was uphill all the way. Of course, coming back DOWN was easy!

Today, David was just too tired and discouraged to go to school, so he stayed home. I went and had a good class. I returned as quickly as I could to be back with him. But, in the evening, I had to go to Hiperneto (now called SuperSal, having been bought out by that large chain). It's the largest grocery store in town, and we needed some things that we can only get there. But, when I tried to call Asher to bring me home, I couldn't get ahold of him. I finally got another taxi to bring me home. I had to pay a little more, but at least I and all the groceries got home okay.

The last few days I've been checking out the used cars for sale. There are quite a few of them parked in the kanyon parking lot, right next to the mercaz klitah (where my classes are in Carmiel). They always have signs giving the phone number to call, but very rarely do they give prices. Two old Peugeots, however, that have been parked there every day, did have prices. For one they are asking 10,000 shekels and for the other 5000. I looked closer today at both of them. They are very similar: they are both from the early 90s, and they both have about 217,000 or 218,000 kilometers on the odometer (that would be about 136,000 miles). So the 5000 shekels (around $1100) seems like a pretty good deal. I even entered the phone number into my phone today, but I didn't actually call. It really would be nice to have a car here!

22 March 2006


Today, I went to school alone, and, when I got there, I asked Efrat, the director of the ulpan to call David (as he had asked me to do). She didn't actually call him until after the morning break, because she wanted to talk first to Tova, his teacher. She's still not understanding very well what his problem is with learning Hebrew or why he feels like he's wasting his time. Tomorrow, he promised to talk to her in person, and I will go in with him.

I talked on the phone today with Emil, our Israeli buddy in Carmiel. He called me because he had found a driving school and found out what we have to do to get our driver's licenses. I still haven't called the guy at the driving school, though. I also talked to Emil about him helping us to find a cheap used car and gave him the number on the one that I saw (the one that is for sale for 5000 shekels). He called the number and left a message, and he'll tell me what he hears from them (if anything!).

When I came home, David met me in town, and we went out to eat again at the Mountain View restaurant. Their spinach ravioli with alfredo sauce is such a nice comfort food! Then we just came home and pretty much chilled for the rest of the day. For some reason, I've been rather tired today, as well. So, I'm going to wrap this up, and we'll go to bed.

23 March 2006


Many developments today. David & I went in together and talked to Efrat first thing this morning. She really listened to what he had to say, and she understood the problems. Now he will be able to continue his studies, knowing that he can get whatever support he needs in order to feel comfortable with his progress.

I called the driving school guy today, and he told me how to get to his office, where I would be able to get all the information on getting our drivers licenses here. After class, I met David and we walked over there. The process is incredibly complicated, but I was able to understand the whole description in Hebrew, and also to ask questions and get answers. The first step is to go to an office (just up the street a short distance from the driving school) called Memsi (it actually a Hebrew acronym for something which I didn't bother even trying to figure out). When we got there, their computer system, nationwide, was down. The woman suggested that we come back after a few minutes, so we decided to go across the street to the mall and just sit and rest a while, since David's foot has been hurting a lot recently.

While we were sitting there resting, who should walk by but Emil, our Israeli friend! We talked for a while, and then he walked out with us to see the car that we are interested in buying, which is parked right there in the mall parking lot. He called the guy's number again and this time talked to him in person. They talked for quite a while, and Emil said that the guy seems honest. Later, on the bus on the way home, Emil called again and had found a garage to check the car out (for a fee, of course). He will pick us up tomorrow morning, we'll go to Carmiel, we'll meet the owner of the car, we'll test drive it, and we'll take it to the garage to be checked. After that, we will probably buy it! The cost will be somewhere around $900-$1000. It's a 1988 Peugeot, so it won't be fancy, and it won't last a long time (since it already has about 136,000 miles on it), but it will be good basic transportation.

After leaving the car, we went back across to the Memsi office, but the computer was still down, so we didn't wait in Carmiel any longer and instead headed back to Tsfat.

When we got back to Tsfat, David was very tired, so he headed home. I walked over to the college to look into possibly getting a job there. I was able to locate the office, tell them why I was there, and leave my resume, all completely in Hebrew! The woman who took my resume turned out to be the same woman we see nearly every morning waiting for the #4 bus. She lives not far from us!

After that, I went over to the bank. I got in as soon as they opened at 4:00, paid the water bill and the property tax (both to the city of Tsfat), and withdraw enough money to pay for the car tomorrow in case we really are able to get it. I did all of this in Hebrew also! So today was a big day for me in feeling confident about speaking in Hebrew. Did you notice that I'm just a bit excited?

24 & 25 March 2006


Well, Emil picked us up, we went to the garage, and we got the car tested. Unfortunately, the mechanic found oil in the radiator water, which most likely means that the engine block is cracked. So the engine will be failing before very long, and the cost of fixing that would be as much as the price of the car. We decided that it would not be a good buy after all. The young guy who was selling it was disappointed (and maybe a little mad), but we suspect that he may not have been totally unaware of the problem. We certainly were glad that we had gotten it checked! Still, we were disappointed that we won't have a car, because it would be SO convenient. On the other hand, we can take a LOT of taxi rides for even the price of a cheap car, so maybe we just need to do that more often.

The weather Friday was downright HOT, though not so much in Tsfat. This is a weather pattern known here as a khamsin (an Arabic word, I think, which is nevertheless used in Hebrew also) or a sherav (the proper Hebrew word, I guess). I thought that it might be something like the Santa Ana winds of Southern California, but instead, the air was calm and the visibility was poor. Oh well!

The sherav usually only last a day or two, and, sure enough, today (Saturday), it was cool again. In the morning, there was dense fog here at our house, but it cleared to partly cloudy later. I think it was windy out most of the day, but we didn't go out at all today.

I fed the snakes today, even though I really didn't have enough mice, and the ones I had were mostly smaller than most of the snakes would normally eat. Still, everybody got a chance to eat something, so it was a good feeding. I hope that we'll be able to find a better source of mice soon. Otherwise, our snakes will not be getting enough food. We're thinking of the possibility of raising hamsters, since we really don't want to raise mice again because they stink so much.

So that was our weekend. Mostly, we were just lazy. Tomorrow, though, we have to travel again to Haifa for David's appointment with the HIV doctor there.

26, 27, & 28 March 2006


So we traveled safely to Haifa to visit the HIV doctor. We also got them started on helping us find a diabetes doctor (also in Haifa, but near Checkpost instead of at Rambam) and a psychiatrist (hopefully in Tsfat, but it may not be possible). Before returning home, we stopped and browsed a little at the Lev HaMifratz kanyon, which is next door to the Mercazit HaMifratz bus station, one of the 2 major hub bus stations in Haifa. Then we came back to Tsfat, ate supper at the Mountain View cafe, and returned home (after dark).

On Monday (27 March) we went back to our classes. They moved mine to a different room, which I think is actually better. In the morning, when I left the house, for some reason I completely forgot to take my backpack, which was all packed with my textbooks and notebook and ready to go. I didn't realize it until we were nearly at the bus stop, and, by then, of course, it was too late to go back and get it. Luckily, I got along just fine without it.

During the first morning break, I walked over to the nearby rent-a-car place and reserved a car for Thursday through Sunday. On Thursday evening, Nefesh B'Nefesh, the organization that helped us make aliyah, is having a dessert reception for all NBN olim (immigrants) in Jerusalem, and we will be attending that. Then, of course, we will also have the car for the rest of the weekend.

After class, we went to the kanyon and ate pizza, and then we went over to MEMSI, where they took our pictures for our drivers' licenses. They print them out on a form, which we must take to a family doctor and to an eye doctor. After that, we must go to an office near Haifa (but NOT near the bus route!). They stamp it, and then we go to a driving school, take as many lessons as we think we need, and then take a test. After that, if we pass, we will get our drivers' licenses (hopefully!). Just another typical Israeli bureaucratic maze!

In the evening, we got a delivery from the pet store: 44 frozen mice and 4 new members of our household, together with their cages, water bottles, and food. And who are these 4? They are ogrim (the singular is "oger"). No, this is NOT Hebrew for "ogre"; it's Hebrew for "hamster"! It also means "collector" or "hoarder", which is appropriate because that's exactly what hamsters do with their food. The reason we got them is to breed snake food. We don't think that we're going to be able to get a steady enough supply of mice to feed the snakes, and we believe that hamsters will produce less of a nasty odor in the house than mice would.

The pet shop girl said that she was sending a white male and 3 brown females so that we could tell which were which (we had, of course, ordered 1 male and 3 females). The male is really more of a silver grey, but, as a kind of double joke, we decided to name him "Snow White" and to name the 3 females "Bashful", "Doc", and "Sleepy" (nothing like a little gender reversal!).

We left all 4 of them together for the night, but today (Tuesday), we set up another rack and 4 separate cages for them. When female hamsters have their babies, it's important that there be no other adults in the cage with them, so this is why we need the separate cages. So, anyway, they're all set up now.

Today was election day here in Israel, so nonessential government offices and schools, including ulpans, are all closed for the whole day! So we got a much-appreciated vacation. More importantly, we got to vote in Israel for the first time! We found the polling place more easily than I had thought we might. It was quite exciting to go there and have our names on the list of voters!

Elections here in Israel are quite different from in the United States. Here, we don't vote for candidates, we vote for a party by selecting a piece of paper with that party's name on it and sealing it in the envelope provided. Of course, this is done in a booth so that it will be a secret ballot. The seats in the Knesset will be apportioned to the various parties in proportion to the number of people who vote for each party. There are LOTS of parties that one could vote for, but the 3 main ones right now are Likud (right wing), Kadima (the centrist party formed only a few months ago by Ariel Sharon before he suffered a stroke and went into a coma), and Avodah (labour, the left wing, of course). We both voted for Kadima because we think that they have the most sensible plan for this country. They are also projected to get the largest number of votes, though they will still be quite a ways from having a majority. They will probably end up forming a coalition government with Avodah and several minor parties.

After voting, we walked over and had a nice pizza before heading back home. We had walked over, but we were waiting for the bus to return (since it's uphill coming back home, of course). Before the bus arrived, Zion came by, so he gave us a ride home.

Spring is in full swing here now, and the number, variety, and sheer beauty of the wildflowers is absolutely breathtaking! I must be sure to take some time this coming weekend to take some pictures. Even many of the trees have lovely flowers of various shades on them. One kind of tree that we see all over the place, especially along the highways, has branches covered with yellow flowers. The general effect reminds me of streaking fireworks!

29 March 2006


Today, we had quite a bit of talk about yesterday's election in my ulpan class. Although Kadima didn't do quite as well as expected, they still got more votes than any other single party. The main surprises were that Likud, formerly the lead party in the government, got only 5th place. They were passed by another new party, Yisrael Beitenu (Israel, Our Home). Another surprise was that a party of retirees, who had expected to get only about one seat, got about 6 seats! In any case, it shouldn't be too hard for Kadima to form a government without any parties that will oppose their main plan: "disengagement" from the Palestinians and the establishment of permanent borders for Israel.

For the last hour and a half of class today, we again broke up into various language groups (English, Spanish, and Russian) for lectures about the upcoming holiday of Pesach (Passover). The lecturer for us English-speakers turned out to be none other than my ulpan teacher, Neomi. Although her English is quite good, I could tell that she didn't feel very confident speaking English, and she kept wanting to make it into a Hebrew lesson, though she did resist fairly well. It was also difficult because most of us knew LOTS about Pesach, but there were a few, including a non-Jew from Germany, who knew very little. For me, the most important thing was to make sure I knew what will be closed when and what will be available when, which she explained well when I asked about it. Basically, the first and last days of the khag (holiday) will be like Shabbat, with everything closed and no bus service, and the days right before these two will be like Friday, with stores closing early and bus service stopping well before sunset.

And for those of you in the U.S. who observe Pesach, na na na na na na! We only have to eat matzah here for SEVEN days, instead of EIGHT, as in every other country. Just another reason to make aliyah, nakhon (right)!

30 & 31 March & 1 April (no fooling!) 2006


Thursday, after class, I picked up the rental car that I had reserved, a black Hyundai Getz (not sold in the U.S.) with a manual transmission (yes!). Since it was still only a little after 1:00 and we didn't need to leave Carmiel for Jerusalem until 4:00, we went for a little driving tour of the Galil. First, I went up the road through Rama (a X-ian Arab town that we also go through on the bus but only a short ways from the main highway). The road we drove on goes up the along the hills and crosses over to the other side. That was an area where I had never been before and it was quite lovely, so I enjoyed the drive. We returned by another road that comes down the hill a little further west, right north of Carmiel. We still had plenty of time, so I drove up the road where Emil and Lena had taken us a month or so ago. That time, however, there had been so much fog that we didn't get much of a view at all. This time, though, it was very clear, so from the viewpoint up there I could see most of the middle and lower Galil, including some of the Kinneret (David was sound asleep, so I didn't wake him up because I knew he'd rather get the rest than see the view). When we got down to the "Big" kanyon (yes, that really IS its name!), we went to the huge supermarket there and got some challah for Shabbat and some cold Diet Coke to drink right then because we were thirsty. Then I checked the maps, and we headed over to pick Betsy up at 4:00 at the Mercaz Klitah (where she lives and where my ulpan classes are). We were on our way to Jerusalem! The trip went smoothly, we found the hotel with no trouble, and we were about an hour early (6:30 instead of 7:30). So we just hung around the lobby of the hotel (a very fancy hotel!) until it was time for the Nefesh B'Nefesh dessert reception and program.

The desserts were delicious, and the program was also very good and inspiring. Particularly good were a duo of young guys who sang a variety of songs. The younger of the two (I think) was named Roger, and he was very easy on the eyes (what David & I call a CYD: Cute Young Dad). Before one of his songs, he told us how he & his fiancee had thought of making aliyah but had not considered it a serious option. Then they talked about getting married in Israel, and ended up not only getting married here but also making aliyah. This was his introduction to "Somewhere Over the Rainbow". It gave a whole new meaning to that song for me! This really IS like getting to go somewhere over the rainbow, but it's much nicer here than in Oz! Betsy got to talk to several people about her dreams of living in a rural setting. I think somehow these connections will help her realize her dream. Afterwards, we drove back to Carmiel, dropped Betsy off there, and drove back up to Tsfat. We didn't get home until after 1:00 a.m., but we were very glad that we had gone!

Needless to say, we didn't get up very early Friday morning! When we did, we got into the car and headed down to Rosh Pinna. We had a delicious omelet at a nice little restaurant outside under a canopy. Then we went on up the road (highway 90) past Kiryat Shmona. We turned right and went up towards Har Khermon (Mt. Hermon) to the Nimrod Fortress. This National Park includes the ruins of a medieval castle built and enlarged by various Muslim rulers in the 12th and 13th centuries. Of course, a major reason for its construction was to defend against the X-ian Crusaders. The part still standing is quite impressive, and the views from there are nice, since it's set high up on a strategic ridge in order to defend the road that used to run from Tyre, on the coast, inland to Damascus. The day was quite clear; I think that, if I'd had a good pair of binoculars, I might have been able to see our house, although it's quite a long ways away. I did take quite a few pictures, but I haven't posted any of then yet, at least.

After climbing up and down all the stairs at the castle, we were both very thirsty, so we stopped by the kanyon at the north end of Kiryat Shmona and got a couple of bottles of cold Diet Coke. We also went to the market there and got some milk so that we wouldn't run out on Shabbat. Then, of course, we headed right home so that the milk wouldn't get too warm and spoil. We were also quite tired from being up so late the night before, so we needed to rest a bit, too. We got to bed quite early.

This morning (Saturday), I got up fairly early. But it wasn't as early as I had thought. Someone had alluded Thursday evening to something about losing an hour (that is, daylight savings time starting). I had quite forgotten about it, but this morning I noticed that the time on my computer was an hour later that on the bedroom clock. So then I remembered. I wonder how many people will be an hour late to class tomorrow, since nobody mentioned it in class?

We decided today to drive over to the Druze villages on Har Carmel (Mt. Carmel) southeast of Haifa. Some people I met last summer in Haifa at the Masorti synagogue had taken me there one Saturday afternoon, so that's how I knew about these villages. We ended up buying some very nice things at very good prices. We got a rattan coffee table with a smoked glass top and two matching end tables; a very nice pair of slippers for David; a beautiful seder plate with several matching pieces, including 4 kiddush cups, an Elijah's cup, and two serving dishes (for Pesach); a large maroon rug for our living room; a gorgeous piece of hand-woven Druzi cloth; and a beautiful amethyst mounted on a wood base. We also ate a delicious lunch of falafel wrapped in Druzi bread (kind of like a large thin flour tortilla) and a sampler of the wonderful salatim ("salads", but the name hardly does them justice!) that are so good here in the Middle East: hummus, babaganoush, labaneh, tabouli, Turkish salad, carrots, and one or two others. Then we headed home. The return trip, from our parking spot in Dalia Al-Carmel to our driveway in Tsfat, took only an hour an a half. We got everything out of the car and into the house just before the thunderstorm began in earnest!

When we got home, I prepared to feed the snakes. I am gradually getting a better routine for this. Since our supply of mice is still not really adequate, I didn't thaw a mouse for each snake (although I did have enough to do that). Instead, I simply set the breeding males aside without food and waited to see which of the others might not eat. In the end, I think the only one that didn't get any opportunity to eat was Khazir, our male hognose snake who doesn't eat very often anyway. And I only had to flush one wasted mouse down the toilet.

So, I guess that's about it. I've got to help David now. He has to give a short presentation to his class tomorrow on the Abuyudaya, the Jews of Uganda. He's written it in English, so my main task will be to translate it into Hebrew for him. Wish me luck!

2, 3, 4, & 5 April 2006


A new record: 4 days between updates. Not so good; I guess we've just been busy, or lazy, or some combination of the two.

So, let's start where I left off. I translated David's presentation for him quite easily and helped him understand it. The Hebrew actually turned out to be quite simple. He presented it on Sunday, and it was well received, especially by the teacher.

Well, that's about all that I can remember about Sunday, so let's move on to Monday. After the morning break (some time a bit after 10:00), all the ulpan students gathered together in the dining room of the Mercaz Klitah ("Absorption Center") for a seder (of course, technically not a "real" seder, since it's not Pesach yet). Still we did go through the whole order, drinking wine and eating all the traditional things. We even had an afikoman hunt, although the prize was a haggadah, not the million dollars promised. :-) It was really quite enjoyable. Furthermore, we got out early enough to get back to Tsfat before everything closed. This allowed us to get cat food and cat litter at the pet store before they closed. They delivered it the next day to our house. Then we ate lunch at the Mountain View cafe (in Hebrew its name is "Mul HaHar", which means "opposite the mountain").

Tuesday, I had my oral exam (mivchan baal pei). Efrat, the director of the Carmiel ulpan, and another woman were the examiners. They asked me questions about myself and then asked me to tell the story that I had prepared. The entire exam must be done with no notes (not even in English) and no dictionary. I told about our arrival in Israel and our trip by taxi to Tsfat. It went quite well, and they asked me questions about the story. I was able to answer fairly well, I think. Then I drew a card from a stack. Each card describes a situation, and we are supposed to say what we would say in that situation. My card said that I was inviting friends to a restaurant, and I was supposed to call and reserve a table. I think it was one of the easiest of all the possibilities, and I did it easily and quickly. I found out today (via e-mail from one of my fellow students, that I got 100 gimel, which I think means that I got the top score of a level gimel ulpan, although I don't know for sure.

This morning, we got up early to get to Haifa, because David had understood that he had an appointment with the psychiatrist there. However, when we got there and found the building and the office, we discovered that she is only in on Sundays, and that his appointment isn't until the 23rd, the same day that he also has an appointment with the endocrinologist in the same place. The building is quite near the Mercazit HaMifratz ("Center of the Gulf") bus station (the Haifa end of the line for bus #361), which is next to the Lev HaMifratz ("Heart of the Gulf") kanyon ("shopping center"), so we went over there to browse (and shop!) a bit before returning to Tsfat. David bought another computer magazine at the Steinmatzky store, and we got a beautiful maroon table cloth that should look nice with our new living room rug.

When we got back to Tsfat, we went to the shuk, since it had just stopped raining, and bought lots of fruits and vegetables for Pesach. We will be hosting two families from the ulpan for Pesach. Victor and Rosario are from Mexico, and they have two daughters, ages 11 and 5. Both parents were in David's class, although Rosario is now in a different class. Mendel and Paula are from Brazil, and they also have two daughers, ages 5 and 1. Both parents in this family are still in David's class. Since there is no bus service on the first day of Pesach (as on Shabbat), they will all come up here the day before (Wednesday) and return to Carmiel on Friday. So we've ordered 6 fold-up beds so that everyone will be able to sleep here for the two nights. We are so excited to be able to have all these people at our house for our first seder in Israel!

This evening, we both had appointments with our new family doctor, Dr. Nechmad. He seems to be really nice. His English isn't perfect, but it's better than he thinks it is. So now we have done the second step toward getting our driver's licenses. The next step will be to visit an optometrist. Then we must go to Misrad HaRishui ("Permits Office"), after which we go to the driving school, take a lesson or two, and attempt the test. Whew!

After our appointments at the doctor's, we went and got some more groceries at the market. It was raining and we really had too many bags to carry easily from the bus stop home, so we called Asher one more time to take us home (we had also gotten him to take us home from the shuk and from home to the doctor's office!).

Good news for all you folks in the U.S.: you can now call us for the same price as if we lived in the 909 area code. Or, if you just a little more adventurous, you can call us for FREE! We have Skype on my computer. If you download Skype and install it on your computer, you can call us for free. Our user name is ArlanDavid. It works very similarly to Yahoo IM, except that you can actually talk rather than merely typing (you can do that, too, just like Yahoo IM). But I paid $38 for a year of Skype In service, which means you can call us from any telephone by dialing 1-909-581-9623, just as though we were in the 909 area code! If I'm not at my computer and logged in, your call will be routed to voicemail, just like an answering machine, and I can listen to your message later and call you back. I also have Skype Out, which allows me to call numbers in many different countries, generally for only about 2 cents a minute, by deducting the appropriate sum from money that I have prepaid. One thing you may want to remember is that here in Israel we are 10 hours AHEAD of California. So, for example, when it's 7:00 in the evening here, it's 9:00 in the morning there.

Well, I guess that does it for now. We're now on break from the ulpan, for the Pesach holiday. The ulpan resumes on April 23 (although we won't be back until April 24 because of David's appointments in Haifa on the 23rd). So, hopefully, I'll be able to update you more frequently (don't hold your breath, though!).

6, 7, 8, and 9 April


Well, it's a good thing that I warned you not to hold your breath! Another 4 days -- where did time go? Anyway, let's see, what has been happening? On Thursday, the technician came (again!) from T'veria to install our dishwasher. Unfortunately, when he got here he had to inform us all was STILL not ready for the installation. There needed to be holes for the pipes to run from under the sink to the place where the dishwasher is to sit. When we called Zion about it, he tried to insist that all was ready; we just needed to remove one of our kitchen cabinets and all of the hook-ups would be right there available. But we had already removed all the screws and found out that the cabinet would NOT come out. So we went into town to talk to Meir, our friend the salesman at the furniture store, who had sold us the dishwasher way back when we first got here. He said he would call Zion, too. We happened to mention to Meir that we had bought Nutella, one of the chocolate spreads that is very popular here in Israel (they use it more or less like peanut butter or jam). He told us that the "Shachar" brand is much better.

While we were there, we got matzah shmurah, the special handmade matzah that is only used at a seder, for 1500 shekels. They also threw in a free TV table and a free DVD player. For those of you who didn't feel a tug on your leg, it was, of course, the other way around: the matzah was actually the free gift. Still, it's nothing to sneeze at; even just those 3 pieces of matzah shmurah would not have been cheap to buy!

On Friday, two guys spent most of the afternoon, working on getting the hook-ups installed for the dishwasher. When they left, though, we STILL could not use the dishwasher, because there was no plug to plug it into the wall! One of them showed this to me, but I couldn't understand what he said. We thought they must have cut it off, but I couldn't figure out why they would do that. Today, we checked back with Meir, and he said that it is delivered that way and that the installer also attaches the plug to the wires. On Tuesday, he will be back up here (for the THIRD time!) to do just that!

Also on Friday, we took most of the empty cardboard boxes, which we had been storing in the basement, across the street, put them into a pit surrounded by rocks there, and burned them. In a country where wood products (including cardboard) and so rare and expensive, I really hated to do that, but I simply don't know how to recycle them here. So they just went up in smoke!

On Shabbat, we rested quite a bit, but we also began the work of getting the house ready for Pesach, and, more significantly, for guests. The middle bedroom (next to ours), the "big room" (5 steps up from the living room), and the living room area next to the kitchen all still had many boxes in them with books, family memorabilia, sewing and crocheting materials, kitchen things, and even clothes. So we began the long process of sorting through these things and getting most of them out of the rooms. A few boxes will remain in the "big room" since it is so, well, BIG. :-) This was actually the main reason that I needed to get rid of all those cardboard boxes: I needed all that space in the basement to store things that really can't be stored anywhere else! We made good progress, but we still have a ways to go. I also took a but of time to take some pictures of wild flowers in our yard and just across the street. I've posted the best of them at:

http://photos.yahoo.com/arlanwareham

Today (Sunday) we spent all the morning continuing the work of sorting through boxes. We found many things that will be very useful to us in celebrating Pesach, from kettles, serving dishes and recipes, to candle holders and haggadot (books from which to read everything during the seder). Just before 2:00, we walked over to Shaarei Ha-Ihr and ate pizza. Then we continued by bus into town, where we bought 8 pillows, walked down to Hiperneto (now SuperSal), and did some MAJOR shopping for food for the holiday. We got most of the things on our list (including that "Shachar" chocolate spread!). There are several spices, though, including bay leaves, sage, and thyme (we'll substitute rosemary, which is used as a ground cover all around town), that we couldn't find. We'll check tomorrow with the spice shop in town and see if we can find any of these missing ones. We saw no canned milk, and cottage cheese only comes in tiny packages. Finally, there seems to be some problem with certain kinds of cheese which MAY not be kosher for Pesach. This has DEFINITELY gotten beyond me! It's CHEESE, for heaven's sake! It's not made from one of the 5 kinds of grain, and it's not likely to have vinegar in it, I think! Mi yodea (who knows)?

Now I'm working on being ready to lead a seder, something which I've only done once before in my life, and not too well that time, either, since it was about 6 or 7 years ago, and I knew even less than I do now. :-) Anyway, this will be a good experience, and I'm not too worried about it.

10 & 11 April 2006


I'm so proud of us! The house is actually beginning to get into shape now. Both guest bedrooms (the middle upstairs room and the "big room") are all set up, each with 3 beds (the fold-up roll-away kind) all made up with sheets and blankets, and with towels and washcloths set out on them for all the guests to use. In each room we put 2 of the beds together and the 3rd separate. All of the blankets, sheets, towels, and washcloths are ones that we brought from the U.S., but we laundered them here, together with many other that we also had shipped. The washer and drier have been running almost constantly!

On Monday we went into town and bought a few more supplies, including most of the spices that we had not yet found. We also ate lunch at our favorite falafel stand near the bridge in town (well, actually there are at least 3 or 4 falafel stands near the bridge, but one is our favorite!). Then we headed back home and got to work in earnest.

This morning, Yaakov, the appliance installer, returned and easily got the dishwasher all set up for us. He also sold us a water filter, rock salt, dishwasher soap, and a rinse that makes the dishes shine. So we are very well supplied. He is so nice and so helpful (and also very easy on the eyes!), and he explained exactly how to operate the dishwasher. It's somewhat different from the ones we had in the U.S., since it's a German brand (AEG). And it works WONDERFULLY! The dishes really do shine! We've been running it all the rest of the day, getting everything clean for Pesach (and we'll be running it all day tomorrow, too!).

Even the living/dining/kitchen room is beginning to get into shape. I burned more cardboard boxes today (including the big ones that the beds came in), and that alone cleared up a lot of space in living area. There's still more work to do, but I'm confident that we'll be able to get it done tomorrow and have the house in quite good shape for guests and for the holiday.

David's got a pretty good start on preparing the food, as well. I helped him cut up fruit for the charoset today, so that's all ready (and it's going to be DELICIOUS, as his always is!). Of course, we tasted it, but it will be even better by tomorrow evening after it's had a chance to thoroughly blend for 30 or 40 hours. Yum yum! He also prepared a nice appetizer spread of various dried fruits stuffed with nuts, and he made lentil roasts based on my Mom's recipe, although it had to be altered somewhat (and we didn't have the directions, only the ingredient list!). Still, it is also going to be delicious. Tomorrow he will prepare the rest of the food, including cottage cheese and peanut loaf, another of my Mom's staples, it will be closer to hers except for the tomato gravy, for which we don't actually have her exact recipe (or at least we don't know where it is!).

So we're well on our way to a good Pesach, I think. With guest here, who knows whether I'll find time to write here for all of you or not. We'll just have to see how it all works out. So, to you all: chag sameach v'kasher (May you have a happy and kosher holiday)! :-)

12, 13, & 14 April 2006


What a wonderful Pesach! Everyone managed to arrive here one way or another. Our favorite taxi driver, Asher, though, was not available to bring anyone here, since, as they found out when they called him, he was on his way to Jerusalem! This definitely complicated matters. I had to try to explain to 2 different drivers, in Hebrew, how to get to here. The first one, bringing Rosario & Victor and their kids, did finally manage to get here. I met the second one near the bus stop, and Mendel & Paula and their kids just walked with me from there (there was no room for me to get into the taxi with them and direct the driver that way).

The dishwasher ran nearly nonstop on Wednesday, and I managed to get the house reasonably clean and orderly. We set up the table (our new maroon tablecloth was just barely big enough), and got everything ready for the seder. I led the seder, and it went quite well. There are many songs that I can sing if someone else leads but which I don't know well enough to lead. So we read quite a few things instead of singing them, and I even left out some. But I think it was dignified, orderly, and not too boring.

On Thursday, we all got up late and had quite a leisurely day. David was feeling pretty tired, so he took a nap while I took everybody on a little walk around Neve Oranim, our neighborhood. It wasn't quite clear enough to really see Har Khermon, but it WAS clear enough to see the Kinneret. I kept the walk fairly short, since I knew that the little kids would get tired. Also, it was quite a warm day.

Victor was anxious to get back home to work on a project that he is doing, so I checked and found out that some Egged busses (the intercity bus company) would be running in the late afternoon and evening. So I ordered a taxi and walked with Victor, Rosario, and their 2 daughters to the bus stop, where the taxi picked them up and took them to the central bus station.

Mendel, Paula, and their 2 kids, Arturo (5) and Ilana (1), stayed another night here. Mendel, Paula, and I stayed up late talking, but David and the kids went to bed quite early. Today, I walked with them down to the bus stop and waited until the #4 bus picked them up and took them into town to catch the #361 bus to Carmiel.

It was SO great to have these 2 families here! It made it seem like a real holiday. And they are all wonderful people. It was fun to have kids playing around the house, too, and it was amazing how much they enjoyed the toys we have, including quite a few that go clear back to when I was a kid! Arturo particularly enjoyed making things with the old Tinker Toys.

Today, I was generally pretty lazy, other than cleaning up a bit, folding the big dining room table back down to its usual library-table size, and generally tidying up a bit. The dishwasher had run almost as much yesterday as the day before, so most of the dishes and pots and pans were already clean. Some had, in fact, been washed several times!

Today we had a sherav שרב, which means that it was actually hot. I opened almost all the windows in the house today for a good part of the day, and the gentle breezes and fresh air really felt great.

Tomorrow, we'll mostly laze around, I think. I do need to feed some of the snakes, though. I don't have enough mice to feed all of them, so I'll do a bit of triage. They'll all be okay, as long as I can eventually get a better supply. I think about the worst that is likely to happen is that they may lay less eggs this year, which might actually be good, since we may have trouble selling very many baby snakes!

15, 16, & 17 April 2006


On Shabbat, we really just rested. We needed the quiet break after all the excitement of the holidays and guests, so it really worked out well. The sherav continued until about 11:15 a.m., but then it broke with a cool but persistent breeze. I shut the windows to keep the heat in.

On Sunday, I fed the snakes (or at least as many as I had mice for, since I only had 19 mice). I also did some more clean-up so that the house is in quite good shape now.

Today (Monday), we went to Haifa. David had an appointment with his new psychiatrist at her house in Haifa. We left home quite early so that we'd have plenty of time to find the place. Before leaving Tsfat, we stopped by the pet store to order as many mice as they could get for us. Then we got on the #361 bus and headed for Haifa.

I had checked on the Egged site (the intercity bus company which is also the local company in Haifa) to find out which bus to take to get to Einstein Street (the address that Dr. Natanel had given me over the phone and whose location in Haifa I had determined by checking my map of Haifa).

We got off at Mercaz Khorev, a kanyon (shopping center) with which I am very familiar, since it is the one closest to the University of Haifa, where I studied last summer for 4 weeks. We got some glidah (Israeli ice cream) and headed up to Einstein Street, which begins just half a block from Mercaz Khorev. What I did NOT know was where #101 might be. It turns out that the numbers begin with #1 and #2 and go up as one goes up the hill. So #101 was quite a ways up (and it really is UP, even though it's not too steep!). Anyway, we finally got there and even managed to find her apartment, with the help of a couple of little signs. We were 45 minutes early, so we waited for about half an hour before ringing the doorbell.

She turned out to be very nice, a fairly typical Israeli who can seem abrupt and just a bit off-putting at first but who will do anything to help you once they get to know you a bit. She'll be able to help David and will be good for him.

After the appointment, we walked back down to Mercaz Khorev (it sure seemed a shorter distance going downhill!). We decided to grab a bite to eat there at Broadway Bagel. Now, if you're thinking, you're going to say, "What can they serve at a bagel eatery during Pesach????" We just assumed that they must not be kosher l'pesach but that we could just order a salad. It turned out that they ARE kosher l'pesach (certified by the Haifa rabbinate!). We did order salads, but we also got some very delicious (albeit somewhat flat-looking) pieces of bread (like eclaires but without the filling). I'm definitely beginning to like Pesach here!

Then we just headed home. When we got here, we ate a bit more, and watched some television: "Just Shoot Me" and a couple of episodes of "Friends". It wasn't until I got on my computer that we heard about today's bombing in Tel Aviv (in an e-mail from Maggie making sure that we were okay, bless her heart!). For those of you who would like to be able to contact us more quickly, I guess I should give you our phone numbers. The cheapest is Skype In. You just dial 1-909-581-9623, the same as though we were actually in the 909 area code. This one actually comes through my internet connection, so if I'm not at my computer, I won't hear it ring. But you CAN leave a message for me (just like on an answering machine), and I WILL be able to retrieve it when I log back in. Remember, we are 10 hours ahead of California time, so we might be sleeping when it's daytime there! You can also call our cell phones directly. For mine, dial 011-972-50-309-2050, or, for David's, dial 011-972-50-300-4861. I generally turn my phone off at night (and I don't know how to retrieve messages), but it's usually on and with me at other times. David's is usually with him, but sometimes he forgets to charge it, so then it doesn't work, of course.

Okay, I think that's enough for now. We love and miss all of you!

18 & 19 April 2006


Two pretty lazy and uneventful days. Yesterday afternoon and evening we watched quite a bit more TV. We even watched just about a whole episode of an Israeli comedy program called HaR'tsua (The Strip). I still only catch a few words here and there, but this program is even funny without understanding the dialog, although I'm sure if I understood it all, it would be even funnier. There are about 4 people that seem to be in every episode, and there are always some guests, as well. One of the 4 regulars is a giant dog (obviously with a man inside, but all we EVER see is the dog, who talks quite a bit). His name seems to be just "Kelev" ("dog"). There is one woman who sometimes is the "straight guy", more or less. There is a man who sometimes wears an awful wig but who sometimes is also kind of the "straight guy" for the humor. There is another guy who usually (maybe always!) wears some kind of outrageous outfit, such as a Roman toga with laurel, or a short red sleeveless strapless gown, which shows off his bulge and his chest hair (and he doesn't shave his moustache, either!). His character is always VERY pompous and speaks as though he were the final authority on whatever he may be talking about.

In at least a couple of episodes, there were two characters dressed as extreme ultra-orthodox rabbis (complete with tsitsit and an obviously fake beard and moustache). In one skit, the junior rabbi picks up various objects off of a tray he is carrying and pronounces a blessing. For example, the two that I caught were: "Baruch ata Adonai, Eloheinu Melekh HaOlam, borei ha-Pokemon" and "Baruch ata Adonai, Eloheinu Melekh HaOlam, borei ha-comdom". Even those of you who know NO Hebrew should at least recognize the last word there, and, yes, he picked up exactly what it says! I don't think I ever ran across those particular blessings before! :-)

So, Pesach is over here, and we can eat BREAD again! Of course, first we have to either make some or get to the market. Guess where we're going tomorrow...

20 April 2006


Well, we went to the market, but they didn't have any bread that was worth getting. We did get some nice brown whole wheat buns. For lunch, we had ravioli alfredo at Mul HaHar (the "Mountain View" coffee shop, although the Hebrew really translates to "opposite the mountain"). We checked at the pet store and found out that she will have about 40 mice frozen and ready for us to pick up tomorrow. Then we returned home, and we both napped a bit.

David has gotten a new program for creating web sites, and he has been keeping himself busy learning to use it. I've done part of the sample ulpan exam that they gave me just before the break, but I'm having a hard time getting myself motivated to finish it, for some reason. I read and understood the text, but I haven't answered the questions about it yet. I did the grammar section (because that's FUN for me!), but I haven't written the essay yet. Maybe tomorrow...

Today, we had a sherav שרב, so the weather was quite warm. The high for the day was in the lower 80s. The next 2 days are supposed to be a little cooler but not cold. On Sunday, the prediction is for an even hotter day than today, so summer is definitely on its way!

For supper, we had chocolate sauce and charoset on the buns that we bought this morning. It was delicious, but somehow it seemed almost sinful to eat charoset on bread! We still have about the third of the charoset left, though, and it would definitely be sinful to let that much delicious (and nutritious!) food simply go to waste.

21 April 2006


I went into town by myself today. Both directions, I was lucky and the #4 bus arrived only shortly after I got to the bus stop. I got challah and pastries at the bakery, bread and tomatoes at the market, and 41 frozen mice at the pet store.

The weather was very pleasant today, though not quite as warm as yesterday. Towards evening, it got quite clear, and we had a beautiful view of Har Khermon. There's only a very little snow left up there now.

21 April 2006

I went into town by myself today. Both directions, I was lucky and the #4 bus arrived only shortly after I got to the bus stop. I got challah and pastries at the bakery, bread and tomatoes at the market, and 41 frozen mice at the pet store.

The weather was very pleasant today, though not quite as warm as yesterday. Towards evening, it got quite clear, and we had a beautiful view of Har Khermon. There's only a very little snow left up there now.

22 & 23 April 2006


We were quite lazy Shabbat morning, but after lunch we went for a nice walk. We walked along the dirt road (it's fairly rough but it would probably be passable for a regular car) that goes north from our house. We walked all the way to the edge of Ebicor, which is part of Tsfat although it seems like a separate town. We have quite a good view of Ebicor from our house, since it's north and a little west of us. It's really on the highest part of Har K'naan (Mount Canaan) and therefore includes probably the very highest spot in Tsfat. We didn't go THERE, however, just to the edge of Ebicor. Of course, there IS a paved road to Ebicor. In fact, I think there are 2, but they go up by completely different routes. The one that I know goes up there from next to Sha'arei Ha-Ihr.

Anyway, I took quite a few pictures along the way, mostly of wild flowers. I also saw a very interesting bug. It was some kind of a grasshopper, but it looked like some alien creature. The most amazing thing was that it was the EXACT color of the dirt so that when it stayed still it looked like just another dirt clod! Needless to say, I didn't even bother trying to photograph it, because you'd never be able to spot it in the picture! I've posted 8 of the best pictures that I did take in a new album on Yahoo entitled "2006-04-22 Shabbat walk". You can view it, together with all the other albums that I have posted there, at:

http://photos.yahoo.com/arlanwareham

In addition to wild flowers, there is one where you can see 2 bugs on a flower, there is one picture of our house, and there is a picture of our first rose just starting to open up! I continue to be ASTOUNDED by the abundance and amazing variety of wildflowers that we see blooming all over the place here in the Galil. It is truly STUNNING!

Today (Sunday) we went to Haifa. David had appointments with his psychiatrist and his diabetes doctor there in Checkpost, the area of Haifa near Mercazit Ha-Mifratz (The Gulf Center) bus station. So we got up at about 5:15. Asher, our faithful taxi driver, arrived here at 6:10, as I had prearranged, and took us to the Tsfat central bus station. We caught the 6:25 bus and arrived in Haifa just in time to walk over to the building where David's appointments were and be on time for the first one, at 8:30!

We had met his psychiatrist last week, when he had had an appointment at her house, which is up not too far from the University of Haifa. This was his first time meeting the diabetes nurse and doctor and the dietician (all women). The doctor was rather busy and had a hard time focusing on us, since she kept getting so many phone calls. The nurse and especially the dietician were not as rushed and had the time and the ability to focus on our concerns and needs. So, overall, it was a pretty good experience. They gave him a new blood glucose meter from which they will be able to upload the records of all his tests to their computer when he returns for his next appointment (in 6 weeks). This way, they will be able to give him even better advice on controlling his blood sugar.

When we got back home, David was exhausted, so he lay down for a nap while I went to the market to get some much-needed groceries. We're almost resupplied again with chametz now after Pesach. Our favorite kinds of bread (the dark, heavy Russian breads), though, are STILL not back in stock in the markets! At least I was able to get bran flakes and Heinz ketchup (though I didn't check carefully and thereby accidentally got the "hot" variety!).

So, we'd better get to bed now, since we've got to return to ulpan tomorrow. It actually started back up today, but, of course, we had to go to Haifa.

24 April 2006


גשם קל (geshem kal), that was the weather prediction for both Sunday and Monday. It means "light rain", but on Sunday (yesterday, when we went to Haifa as described above), there was no rain at all. Today, though, there was HEAVY rain for much of the day, including when we walked from the house to the bus stop and when we returned to Tsfat after ulpan (we called Asher and rode home from the central bus station by taxi!). So, I guess, "on average", we had "light rain" for the 2 days!

To make matters worse, David somehow lost his umbrella on the bus to Carmiel, so we had to walk, in the rain, from the bus station to the Mercaz Klitah with only one umbrella. I sent him on to his class with my umbrella, since it's some distance down the road from the Mrecaz Klitah, where my class is. During the first break, I walked over to the kanyon (it was almost not raining at all right then) and bought 2 umbrellas. It was raining hard enough that I used one of them on the walk back to class, though.

Today in class, we talked quite a bit about the Shoah (the Holocaust), since tomorrow is Yom Ha-Shoah. We will have a special ceremony tomorrow during the ulpan to commemorate this solemn day when we remember the 6,000,000 Jews who died as a result of the Nazi's program to exterminate the Jews. Some of us were given passages to read during the ceremony in various languages. I was assigned to read a text that N'omi's husband translated into English. N'omi is my teacher, and her husband is an "oleh vatik" (an immigrant who's been here a long time) from the U.S. Nearly everyone in our class had stories about relatives who died in the Shoah. In addition, we read a text about Chanah Senesh, a very famous poet who was born in Hungary, made aliyah to Israel, returned as a spy to try to save Jews in Hungary from the Shoah, and was caught and executed by the Hungarian military. Tomorrow during the ceremony, several of us who know it will sing the song "Eli, Eli", which was written by Chanah Senesh. Our homework is to read a text in our book about Anna Frank and to answer questions about it (as well as to do some grammatical exercises related to the text).

25 April 2006


David felt nauseated when he sat up this morning, so he lay back down and didn't even try to get up and eat and go to ulpan today. I explained all of this to Efrat (the ulpan director) in Hebrew, and, of course, she was very supportive and said that health comes before everything.

Today was Yom Ha-Shoah or, as it is now called, Yom Zikaron La-Shoah v'la-G'vura ("Day of Remembrance of the Holocaust and of Heroism"). At 10:00 a.m., sirens sounded throughout the whole country for a minute, and everyone stopped and stood for about a minute in remembrance of all of the worlds lost to the Shoah (our sages taught that each person's life is like an entire world). At 11:30, we had a special memorial ceremony at the ulpan. Efrat read a short introductory passage in Hebrew, I read the English translation; another member of our class, Ivan, read the Russian translation; and yet another, Daniel, read the Spanish translation. There were several other short readings and songs, including yours truly leading a small group of us singing "Eli, Eli" by Chanah Senesh. After that, everyone was invited to come up and gives names of people from their families who perished in the Holocaust. Only a few actually did come forward, but I'm sure there were many more names in people's hearts. We closed the ceremony by singing "Ha Tikvah" (The Hope), the Israeli national anthem.

Although we have class tomorrow, our teacher, N'omi, will not be there because she has a medical appointment that she was unable to change. So she bade us all farewell today, but not without leaving us with her name, address, and home and mobile phone numbers. She encouraged us to keep in touch and to visit her. After the ceremony today, she stayed and talked especially with me, encouraging me to continue in my job search and emphasizing her invitation to visit her and to keep in touch. In my book, this is DEFINITELY beyond the call of duty!

26 April 2006


David didn't even plan to go to class today. He felt quite nauseated all morning, but in the afternoon he gradually improved. We had appointments with Dr. Nechmad (our family doctor now) at 5:15 (and 5:30). He was able to prescribe most of the medications that David still needs, although there are still a few problems to be wrinkled out. The chief pharmacist, Musa, helped us and really did do a good job within the constraints of the system.

I didn't get the name of the substitute teacher we had today, but she was very good. We spent most of the class talking about שנוי (shinui, "change") and all kinds of things connected with it. I think it was time well-spent. Tomorrow, I only go in for the exam, and it is in the afternoon instead of the morning.

27, 28, 29, and 30 April 2006


Wow, 4 days! Let's see, back to Thursday. I went in and took my final ulpan exam. I think I did quite well. The exam was in 2 parts, an hour and a quarter for each, with a 15-minute break between them. For the first part, there were 3 readings each followed by questions about it. I read each of them without much difficulty, albeit somewhat slowly. I answered all the questions about the first 2 readings, but I ran out of time before finishing all the questions about the 3rd one. I did answer some of them, though.

The second part consisted of several grammatical exercises, such as transforming a sentence from one tense to another or switching between singular and plural, and an essay to write, with a choice of 4 topics. I did all of the grammar right, I think, except for one question where we were supposed to use 2 of 4 given connecting words to complete a sentence, and unfortunately I only remembered the meaning of 1 of them. I guessed on a second one, so I might possibly have gotten it right, too. For the essay, I chose to right about why a longer school day would be better (of course, I could have defended the other side instead). I think I did that quite well.

I was also informed that there will be an ulpan class meeting 3 days a week (it's not yet certain which days, but probably Su-Tu-Th) that I an welcome to join. It will begin on Tuesday. I will at least try it out because I want to take every opportunity that I can to improve my Hebrew, especially my conversational ability.

Friday was a pretty quiet day. I did go to Sha'arei Ha-Ihr to get a few things at the grocery store, including challah and some pastries for Shabbat, and I did my usual Friday sweeping of the whole house.

Shabbat was also quite restful. We did get some visitors, though. Four guys, probably about high school age, were walking by our house but had run out of water and were thirsty. So they knocked on our door and asked for some water. Of course, I was happy to get them some. I refilled their bottle with cold water from the refrigerator, and they went on their way after bidding us "Shabbat Shalom!"

Later in the day, we went for a walk, too, since it was a nice warm day. I took the camera with me but only actually took a few pictures, all of wild flowers.

Today (Sunday) we had expected that Roy Liebman, from BCC, would be traveling up from Tel Aviv, where he is visiting friends, to also visit us. Unfortunately, he threw his back out yesterday and so was unable to make the long bus trip up here. Perhaps we will meet him tomorrow in Haifa, which is a shorter trip from Tel Aviv (and which can be made by train rather than by bus).

I did go into town and get my hair cut, as I had planned, though a bit later in the day than my original plan. David went with me, and afterwards we ate lunch at Mul Ha-Har, after which we returned home. David took a nap while I did some work on a piece for string orchestra that I composed 31 years ago (when I was a senior in college). I'm transcribing it for organ, though only to be played via MIDI not by an actual organist (unless there is one with 3 or even 4 hands!). I already had the piece in a MIDI sequence, so I only need to play around with things like registration and expression.

In the evening, we went back into town to visit the optometrist (at an "optika") to get our eye exams as required in order to get drivers' licenses. We also bought some dried apricots and dried figs, and we ate supper at our favorite falafel stand.

A little over a week ago, when I was feeding the snakes, I stopped to take pictures of several of them. I have posted the best 13 of these pictures in an album entitled "Snakes (April 2006)" on Yahoo at:

http://photos.yahoo.com/arlanwareham

So, enjoy! Tomorrow, we will definitely be traveling to Haifa to pick up David's HIV meds at Rambam. Hopefully, we'll also be able to see Roy there, if he is feeling up to that much travel.

1 & 2 May 2006


Hooray! We DID get to meet with Roy in Haifa! We traveled there by bus to pick up David's HIV meds at Rambam and then returned to Lev Ha-Mifratz, the mall next to the bus station in the Checkpost area of Haifa. Roy traveled up from Tel Aviv on the train, and I met him when he got off at the mall. We spent the entire afternoon with him and enjoyed it immensely, even though we never even left the mall. We walked around some and sat some in the food court. He bought a couple of cute little outfits for his granddaughter, who will be celebrating her 6th birthday soon. Then he returned on the train to Tel Aviv, and we returned by bus to Tsfat. It was a very enjoyable day, and it was so nice to get to see Roy and talk with him.

When we got back to Tsfat, we decided to eat pizza at Sha-arei Ha-Ihr before coming back home. Then we caught the bus home. As we were walking home from the bus stop, it was 8:00 p.m. and the sirens sounded once again all over the country marking the beginning of Yom Ha-Zikaron (Memorial Day), the day when we remember all the soldiers who have died in all of Israel's wars and all of those who perished in terrorist attacks. We simply stood still for about a minute in solemn remembrance. From where I was standing, I could see a good portion of the Galil, including much of the city of T'verya (Tiberias), which is right by the Kinneret (the Sea of Galilee).

This morning (Tuesday), I traveled again to Karmiel to continue my ulpan there. I will be once again in Shuli's class, but they will only be meeting 3 days a week: Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday. I asked about David and found out that his class is actually still continuing, although only Sunday through Wednesday (no class on Thursday). He hasn't decided yet what he will do. In fact, we might both opt for the evening class, which will only meet 2 days a week, although we don't know yet which 2 days. Anyway, my class was very good. We talked a lot about Yom Ha-Zikaron and the wars in Israel's history, all the while learning new vocabulary, of course. At 11:00 a.m., there is another country-wide siren for 2 minutes. It also marked the beginning of a special ceremony of remembrance at the Mercaz Klitah (where my class is held). After that, I returned home.

During the break this morning, I stopped to buy the current issue of Sha-ar HaMatkhil (a weekly newspaper for beginners that comes out every Tuesday and to which I used to subscribe in the U.S.). When I paid the 4 shekels for it, the man also handed me a package as a gift. I could see immediately that it contained the Israeli flag, so I was really excited! When I got home and opened the package, I was even MORE excited. It is not just ONE flag but SIX flags all connected together. I immediately took them out and tied them to our balcony, where they all flapped furiously in the wind. Later, I took some pictures of them with Har Khermon in the background. I haven't even uploaded them from the camera, but tomorrow I'll probably take some more and load them all into the computer. Perhaps I'll post a few of the best on Yahoo then.

We walked over again to Sha-arei Ha-Ihr for lunch today. This time, we got falafel. Then we decided just to walk back, as well, since it was a nice warm, sunny day with a pleasant cool breeze. On the way home, we saw that the police were blocking the main highway and making people turn left just before Park Ha-P'salim (The Park of the Statues). This is the road that we turn onto to go home anyway. We wondered why the highway was closed. When we got there, we decided to go over into the park, since David had never actually been IN the park (although we go by it on foot or on the bus every day). As we entered the park through the open gate, we noticed that some kind of remote controlled vehicle was traveling along the highway below the park from a police van towards a bus stop on the other side of the highway. This is a bus stop that is really not used much, since nobody lives right by it, and most people living in that area would use the bus stops up on the other road, and more busses, including our #4, go up there rather than on the highway at that point. At first, I thought that it was repainting the yellow line that marks the side of the road. We sat down to rest, and the robot stopped, but there was a small tree directly in our line of sight to where it stopped, right by the bus stop. Then the police began stopping the traffic further up the highway, not even letting them get to the road to turn on. Suddenly, we heard gunshots! That was when I figured out what was really happening. As we verified a bit later, there was a suspicious package (maybe a small cooler like one might carry a lunch in, although I was too far away to be sure of that) at the bus stop. The robot was actually a remotely controlled rifle. After they fired several shots at the package and nothing happened, the robot pulled the package away from the bus stop and onto the shoulder of the road next to the bus stop. Then it fired at it a couple of more times, again with no explosion. At that point, a policeman with a full head helmet, including a clear hard plastic face piece, approached the package and investigated it. Obviously, it was harmless, so he took his helmet off and walked back towards the police van. Although we really were not very close, we were probably the closest people to the bus stop when all of this happened. So, a little excitement, and a little reminder of how important and necessary security is here!

This evening, we watched the ceremony on Har Hertzl (in Jerusalem) that marks the end of Yom Ha-Zikaron and the beginning of Yom Ha-Atzma'ut (Independence Day). It was a very beautiful and well-choreographed program, with a multitude of colored lights, projected photos, dignitaries and soldiers, honored citizens lighting torches, speeches, singing, and dancing. I'd say I understood somewhere between about a third and a half of what people said in their speeches. For the most part, they tended to speak fairly slowly and distinctly.

We left the blinds open, and, sure enough, we saw some fireworks way across the valley, in Katzrin, I think, which is actually in The Golan. We also saw a few much closer over towards the center of Tsfat. We had already decided not to make the trek into town to see the fireworks there up close (and to deal with the crowds of people!).

3 & 4 May 2006


Independence Day יום העצמאות (Yom Ha-Atxma'ut) itself was a pretty quiet day here. It was a beautiful, clear, warm, windy day. We did get to meet some new people, though.

Some time back, Lee, the girl at the pet shop, had told us that there was a woman who lived out on this side of town who had a king snake. Lee had told her about us, and she had wanted to meet us. Lee asked us if it would be okay to give her our number. Of course we told her that it would. But the woman had not called us. Yesterday, she did! Not only that, she invited us, total strangers, to her house! Naturally we agreed to go. She gave me directions over the phone, and we walked there (downhill virtually all of the way) and found the place easily. The whole family welcomed us warmly. She (her name is Karmit) has a husband and two boys, ages 8 and 11. The younger boy was especially nice. And if we were around him enough, we would certainly improve our Hebrew and he would learn a lot about snakes (and probably English, too!). We had a great time visiting them.  Karmit offered to take us home in her car, since it would be quite a climb back up here. We readily agreed, and she and the younger boy both got to see some of our snakes and to hold 2 or 3 of them, too. The whole family is going to come up and visit us on Saturday! Karmit speaks English quite fluently, since she grew up on a kibbutz founded by people from England.

Today, it was back to ulpan for me. We will be having a different teacher on Thursdays. She taught the class once when I was in N'omi's class, but I didn't catch her name. She's quite good, though. I inquired from Efrat, the director of the ulpan, again about the evening class. It has still not been finalized due to complications with 2 different sources of funding and the logistics of getting a teacher. It will definitely meet on Monday nights, and also either on Wednesday or Thursday nights. I think this may be a better option for both David and me. He will do better in the evening than in the morning, and I may get more opportunity for conversation in this class than in my current one. So, stay tuned!

5 & 6 May 2006


A pretty slow weekend. On Friday morning, I walked over to Sha'arei Ha-Ihr to pick up some medicines from the pharmacy for David and to get a few groceries. Then I caught the bus back. On Friday afternoon, we watched a whole bunch of episodes of "Friends" on TV, most of which (or maybe ALL of which) we had not seen before. We also watched some of an episode of "HaRatsua" ("The Strip"), a very funny Israeli comedy show. The woman on the show was doing her character who is a very ditsy Russian girl with HUGE tits who speaks in a very high, squeaky voice. As usual, I couldn't catch most of the dialog, but there was something about an Oscar for her. When they showed a clip, she was dressed as a Palestinian girl who was making her video before her terrorist mission, complete with her saying, "Alahu akbar!" (Allah is great). There are definitely NO sacred cows on that show!

Today, I fed the snakes, and we watched some more TV. I don't know why, but Karmit didn't call, so she and her family didn't come up to visit. It was a beautiful, clear, warm day today, and the view across the valley was about as good as it gets.

Tomorrow morning, it's back to ulpan for me. So I'd better wrap this us and get to bed.

7 & 8 May 2006


Two fairly uneventful days. I went to ulpan on Sunday and returned as early as I could. The weather was the warmest we've had yet, since there was a שרב sherav. We walked to Sha'arei Ha-Ihr and had a פיצה משפחתית pizza mishpakhtit (family pizza) for supper. Then we actually walked back home instead of riding the bus.

Today, I took my bills from the city, the arnona (property tax) and water bill, to my bank in town where I paid them from my account. Then I walked down to Hiperneto (well, actually it's now called SuperSal) to do some grocery shopping. I was pleased that they once again had Caffeine-Free Diet Coke, since they didn't have it the last time I was there and they are the only market in town where I have ever found it. I also picked up some good dark Russian bread (our favorite kind here), some nuts, some shnitzels, some milk, some blue cheese, and some Sweet & Low sugar substitute. It is labeled "Sweet & Low" in English, but the Hebrew says מתוק וקל (matok v'kal), which actually translates to "sweet and light" or "sweet and easy". Anyway, we use it to sweeten our coffee and tea.

Asher was not available to bring me home, and I certainly wasn't going to try to ride the busses with 4 bags of groceries plus two 6-packs of 1.5 L cokes! So I called another number I have to order a taxi in Hebrew. The cab got there quickly, but when we got home the driver wouldn't bring me quite all the way to the house, complaining about the lack of pavement. Worse yet, he charged me 20 shekels, whereas it's normally about 17 or 18 shekels and Asher only charges 12.5 shekels. Oh well! No other taxi driver has EVER complained about the lack of pavement, even when it was wet and muddy, which it was NOT today!

9 & 10 May 2006


How many of you in the U.S. know when VE Day is (Victory in Europe)? Just as I thought; I bet NONE of you did. Well, at least in Russia (and the rest of the Former Soviet Union), it's 9 May! Accordingly to my fellow students (most of whom are from the FSU), it's a big holiday there with parades celebrating the victory of the Red Army over the Germans (the American, French, and British role is apparently downplayed there!). Here in Israel, it's not a formal holiday, but it IS noted. There was a ceremony just across the street from the Mercaz Klitah in Carmiel, next to the WW II memorial, at 10:00 on Tuesday, and those of us in the ulpan went over to it. It was really quite interesting. They had set up a tarp to shade the area (although it really wasn't a terribly hot day). The white plastic chairs (quite a large number of them) were mostly filled with elderly people, who, I'm sure, were mostly from the FSU. About 60% of the talking was in Russian, nearly 40% in Hebrew (much of which I understood), and there was one rabbi (with a black hat) who spoke in Yiddish (some of which I understood). Not ONE word was in English! There were several choirs, some with soloists, who sang enthusiastically. All of the words were in Russian, except for part of one number, which was in Hebrew. There was a band, consisting mostly of young people with a few older ones, that played very professionally. Overall, it was interesting to note how strongly WW II is still remembered. Of course, so much of the war was fought on the territory of the FSU, and the loss of civilian lives was even greater than the 6 million lost in the Shoah (of course, there is definitely some overlap there; many of the people killed in the FSU were Jews). Also, one speaker noted that the percentage of decorated Jews in the Red Army was greater than that of other people.

Today we were going to meet Rafael to pick up some frozen mice in Haifa. But he had phone problems and so was unable to contact us and also didn't make the trip to Haifa (he lives not far from the airport, east of Tel Aviv) because he was dealing with the phone problem. Luckily, we didn't just get on the bus and hope that we'd connect with him! Finally, this evening I got a hold of him through another number on his web site and found out what had happened. He has someone in Haifa from whom we will be able to pick up mice as needed on a regular basis. So, within the near future, we should finally have enough suitable food for all our snakes, and they will cost less than half of what we now pay (and more in line with what we paid in the U.S.).

Well, I guess that'll do for now. It's just about time to go to bed so that I can get up early and go to ulpan in the morning.

11, 12, & 13 May 2006


Well, we really didn't do anything special that I can think of on Thursday or Friday. They were just pretty much regular days.

On Thursday during the morning break from ulpan, I went over to a small music store in Carmiel and bought 3 CDs. They were having a sale on Naxos disks, offering 3 for 69 shekels (about $18), so I picked out 3 that interested me. One has Bach Flute Sonatas, another has a Brahms piano quartet (piano plus string trio) and a Schumann piano quintet (piano plus string quarter), and the third has several suites by Shostakovich. These are the kinds of classical CDs that one can generally only find in the largest record stores in major cities in the U.S. Here, I found them in this small music store in a city that is definitely NOT one of the major cities in the country! We probably have the Russians to thank for this fact.

Today (Saturday), Karmit came over with her younger son, Liv. She also brought a friend of hers and her 3 kids (2 daughters and an son). Except for the oldest daughter (and, to some extent, her mother), all the kids were interested in the snakes. Liv, Karmit's boy, and the middle kid (one of the other mother's daughters) wanted to hold the snakes, and of course I was delighted to bring several of them out (1 at a time!) for them to hold. Karmit and Liv are planning to come up here on Tuesday evenings. David will help Liv with English, and Liv will help David with Hebrew. Karmit will help ME with Hebrew conversation.

14, 15, & 16 May 2006


Sunday, we went to Checkpost in Haifa to see David's psychiatrist, Dr. Natanel. She was very helpful and proscribed some new medicine for him to help him sleep better. It seems to be working quite well, too.

Monday evening and Tuesday was the holiday of Lag B'omer here. Lag B'omer means "33 in the Omer", and it is the 33rd day of counting the Omer, which begins the day after the first day of Pesach. One of the traditions is to make bonfires, so we saw several of those from our house. The big center of celebration, though, is in Meron, a small town at the foot of Har Meron (Mt. Meron), which is along the route we travel on the bus from Tsfat to Carmiel. They had been making preparations there for about 2 weeks BEFORE the holiday, including traffic barriers and a re-routing of eastbound traffic on a special bypass around Meron that is only used at this time of year. When we went through Meron on Sunday, there were already dozens of police cars in the area. Thousands of people attend the celebrations in Meron because there is a tomb of a famous Tzadik (righteous person) there. Actually, there are numerous tombs around this whole area of Tzadikim, but I guess there is one in particular that is associated with Lag B'omer. I believe that it's because he died on this day. Anyway, quite an interesting time around here!

I have been saving more and more phone numbers on my cell phone, and I was beginning to worry that, if something happened to it, I'd lose a lot of important and useful information. So I inquired at the Pelephone office about a cable to transfer the info to my computer. They of course had one, and I bought it. But when I got home, there was no software with it, and I was unable to find it on-line. So I went there again to ask about the software. They gave me a website and a number to call for help. I ended up calling the number and got someone who guided me to the correct website (a different one!), helped me download the program, and got it running properly. So now I can backup all the numbers in my phone. We can also back up David's phone, although he has many less numbers than I do.

Beginning Wednesday evening, David and I will be in an evening ulpan class on Wednesday & Sunday evenings. Hopefully, this schedule will make it easier for David, since he often does not feel well in the morning, especially recently, since there seems to be something in the air that activates his allergies. This causes his sinuses to drain which, in turn, upsets his stomach, sometimes causing him even to vomit. If he does not have to get up very early and hurry off to Carmiel, he won't have as much trouble, and he can take it easy and lie down when he does have sinus trouble. By later in the day, he has usually stabilized much more.

17, 18, & 19 May 2006


The new ulpan class is going to be very good for both of us, I think, but especially for me. The class consists mostly of older people who have a fairly good foundation in Hebrew. They asked us a lot about what we wanted to get from the class, and many of them seemed to have the same priorities that I do: to learn to speak Hebrew better and to learn to understand spoken Hebrew better. So I think I'll get some good help with the very skills that I need to improve the most. But David will also pick up quite a bit of Hebrew just by listening in class.

Thursday was a pretty bad day for David. We had an appointment with Dr. Nechmad, our family doctor, at 9:00. David had quite a bit of trouble with nausea and, in fact, vomited on the walk over there. I was able to explain quite a bit to the doctor in Hebrew, and the rest we did in English. But there was a lot of waiting while the doctor, the nurse, and the pharmacist (where we went after the doctor) tried to figure out how to get the diabetic supplies that David needs. Eventually, we got what we needed (and at least one thing that we DIDN'T need), but it was quite an ordeal. Then we had to go over to the Maccabi office in town to get an x-ray of David's sinuses. The Russian rad-tech not only didn't speak English but was also very surly about it, even when I offered to try to interpret. Finally, after David blew up at her, she did get someone in there who could communicate with him in English (since I had to wait outside the x-ray room).

We tried out a restaurant in town (after all this tsuris) that we had not been to before. The food was very good, but the service was lousy, they took only cash, and they included a service charge right in the bill. Needless to say, I didn't add any additional tip, and we're not likely to return there, either!

We've been watching more TV in Hebrew recently. We especially like הרצוע HaR'tsua ("The Strip"), a comedy show that I've mentioned here before. We learned a new Shabbat song on this program. Of course, I didn't get most of the words, but the refrain that keeps coming back begins:
    עוד שבת של קדורגל
    Od Shabbat shel kaduregel...
    Translation: Yet another Shabbat of soccer...
Okay, so maybe that's NOT one that you can use for Friday night services. Maybe Saturday afternoon?? <grin>

One of the episodes of HaR'tsua that we watched this evening (Friday) featured an appearance by Golda Meir (well, at least that's what they claimed!). Although I didn't get most of what was said, I did pick up that she had formed a new political party, of which she was the head: מפלגת המיתים Miflagat HaMeitim (The Party of the Dead!). Of course, this was a reference to the surprisingly good showing of the party of retirees in the recent elections here. They actually got 6 or 7 seats in the Knesset.

Tomorrow, we are planning to walk to services at the Masorti congregation here in town. They only generally have services one Shabbat a month, and this is it for May. They are located in town, so it will be quite a walk to get there. However, I have been assured that someone there with a car will be willing to bring us home, since it's uphill most of the way back! It should be interesting. I've already talked on the phone with a couple of the women who are members, and they were most welcoming.

20, 21, & 22 May 2006


It looks like 3 days is becoming the norm now. I'll try not to let it get to be more than that.

We did indeed walk into town and attend services at the Masorti congregation on Shabbat morning. We got there at about 9:10 or 9:15 (rather than the scheduled starting time of 9:00), but the only person there before us was the cantor (who leads the services). Nevertheless, once we got settled, he started the service. The next people didn't get there for quite a while, so at the beginning we literally had a professional cantor leading a service just for us! By the time for the Torah service, we were STILL one short of a minyan (and they, of course, count women, too!). We waited for a little while and then proceeded to chant from the chumash (the book containing Torah and commentary) rather than taking the scroll out and reading from it. So there were also no aliyot. After each section (which WOULD have been an aliyah), the woman who did most of the chanting (and very well, too, I might add) commented on what we were reading. At first, she only commented in Hebrew (which I understood moderately well), but then she switched to English to make sure we could understand her. Although, like a typical Israeli, she apologized for her English, it was actually excellent (again, quite typical!). She is actually a rabbinic student who lives with her husband and daughter on the kibbutz in the Khulah Valley north of Rosh Pinna where she was born and grew up. After services, she and her husband gave us a ride home, which we very much appreciated.

Sunday evening, we attended the second session of our new evening ulpan class (which will be only on Sunday and Wednesday evenings). There were several new students, most of whom had missed the first session because they were on the ulpan-sponsored tiyul to Jerusalem. There were at least 3 from N'omi's class (the last class I was in before the exam): Gustavo, Daniel, and Y'hudit. It was also a very good session, and I do think that it is helping me already to improve my Hebrew.

Today (Monday), we made a quick trip into town to run some errands, and then later we walked to Sha'ari Ha-Ihr for pizza, taking the bus back, mostly because the sun was rather hot and I was wearing a black shirt.

I took some more pictures today. This morning, a baby donkey and its mother and 5 horses were grazing near our house. We've been seeing these donkeys nearly every day recently, and the baby is SO cute. Late this afternoon, I took a short walk south of our house and a little ways down a small valley. On the walk, I took pictures of flowers, of a butterfly on one flower, and of the Kinneret (the Sea of Galilee). I also took a zoomed picture of T'veriya (Tiberias), the city original built by the Romans on the shores of the Kinneret, which was the home of the Sanhedrin (the chief legislative body and supreme court for all Jews) for many years in the early part of the common era after the destruction of the Temple. I have posted 10 of the best of these pictures on Yahoo in an album entitled "2006-05-22 Horses & Flowers" at:

http://photos.yahoo.com/arlanwareham

So, enjoy! Tomorrow we travel again to Haifa to the HIV doctor (Dr. Shakhar). We will also be meeting someone from whom we will get frozen mice enough to feed all of our snakes for about 10 weeks. Finally, they will be getting enough food of the proper size!

23 May 2006


Today was such a busy day that I though I'd better write about it before I forgot it all.

The main thing was our trip to Haifa. We went first to see Dr. Shakhar, David's HIV doctor at the Rambam Medical Center. To do this, we left home around 7:25, caught the #4 bus into town at about 7:40, caught the #361 at about 8:10 from Tsfat to Haifa (arriving at Mercazit HaMifratz in Haifa at about 10:00), and caught the #108 bus from there to Rambam, another half-hour ride. By the time we actually got to the office, it was about 10:40.

Dr. Shakhar is not only up-to-date on all the latest treatments, he is also a very compassionate doctor who listens to what the patient has to say and gives personal care, and all of this despite the fact that English is NOT his native language! So David got prescriptions for better antihistamines and antibiotics to clear up any possible infection in his sinuses. This should help him feel better in a short time.

After the doctor, we took the #108 bus back to Mercazit HaMifratz bus station, one of Haifa's central bus stations, and a VERY busy place -- busses are going in and out all the time, and the security is very tight, especially these days. The station is surrounded by high, strong fences. Everyone entering on foot goes through the equivalent of airport security, and most if not all busses entering are boarded by security agents who walk down the aisle from front to back, visually checking all passengers.

Before leaving the Rambam area, I had called Abigail, the woman from whom we would be buying enough frozen mice to supply food for all our snakes for 10 weeks. She said that it would be at least an hour before she got to the Lev HaMifratz area (next to the bus station). So, when we got there, we went over to the mall (Lev HaMifratz -- Heart of the Gulf), got new batteries for David's glucose meter, got some glidah (ice cream) to hold us over until supper, and visited a musical instruments store next to the mall that I had spied earlier to drool over the pianos a little.

Then we met Abigail and Sammy and got the mice. Most were in a styrofoam box, and the rest were in a smaller cardboard box. There was enough insulation to keep them frozen until we got home. I carried both boxes with me as we approached the bus station. First, I came to the guard who pre-screens people before they get too near to the electronic security area. Naturally, I expected questions! But when I told him (in Hebrew) that both boxes contained frozen mice, he waved me on through. It was similarly easy with the people at the electronic security area. I guess they figured that terrorists probably wouldn't be likely to be able to say עכברים קפואים (akhbarim k'fuim -- frozen mice) with an American English accent!

The ride back was uneventful. The busses are not as full on Tuesday as on Sunday. Just before we got back to Tsfat, I called Asher, our taxi driver, and he picked us up and took us home. After putting all the mice in the freezer, we took the bus back into town and had our favorite, ravioli alfredo, at Mul Ha-Har, our favorite restaurant.

Today was one of the hottest days we've had so far, but the highs were still only in the low 80's, so it wasn't too bad. Hotter weather is on the way though...

24, 25, 26, & 27 May 2006


Oh no! FOUR days. Sorry....

Yes, summer is definitely here now! But we kinda like it, except, of course, when we have to go out and actually walk in the sun. Seriously, though, Tsfat is one of the coolest places in the country, and this warm weather sure beats the bitter cold of winter (well, at least to this native of SoCal!).

Wednesday morning, I was up quite early. As I was sitting here at my computer, I heard a cow bellow, so I got up and looked out to see where she was. I actually saw 2 of them. One was over on the brand new sod lawn next door (well, actually it includes the yards of 2 houses). The other was in the driveway of the house next door, which is just below the window in this room. Then I saw her walk up the 3 stairs onto the porch! At that point, I headed downstairs, figuring I could get a close look at her just outside our back door, because that's the direction she was headed. When I opened the door, I saw that they had built the frame for a fence (which I had not yet seen until that moment) between our house and the one next door. But when I stepped a few steps over and peaked around the corner, there was the beautiful, creamy white cow with horns, ... ... ... eating the potted plant on our neighbor's porch! I said to her very quietly (she was only a few yards from me), "You might not want to do that...". She looked at me, and slowly turned around and headed the other way, back down the 3 steps to the driveway. Somehow, this whole thing struck me as very funny. At little more on that in the next paragraph...

We were supposed to write a story for our ulpan class, so I decided to write this story about the cow eating the potted plant (in Hebrew, of course). Well, it wasn't quite as fancy a version as the one above, but it was better than a 2nd-grader might write (I hope!). In the evening, I showed it to our teacher (although I don't think she had even remembered that we were supposed to write anything). She only found one minor mistake in my Hebrew, so that was good. More interesting, though, was her reaction. She didn't seem to take it as a very humorous story. In fact, she thought it rather peculiar that I talked so nicely to the cow. According to her, and I'm inclined to believe it, Israelis would say something (well, actually they'd SHOUT) more like this: "Hey, get out of there! Go away!" Well, I guess I'll just have to get more acculturated. But I really WASN'T mad at the cow; it wasn't even my potted plant, and, besides, I just thought the whole thing was rather funny. She was just doing what is normal for a cow.

Today (Saturday), we rode with Margaret to services in K'far V'radim, about 40 minutes from here. Margaret was actually the person who answered my e-mail about the shul here in Tsfat because she is the web master for their web site. However, she likes to go over to the congregation in K'far V'radim. It is somewhat larger than the one here, and they have a rabbi. And, besides that, they have services every week, not just once a month. We enjoyed the services there. For the first part, they met in a large room that is a gan (kindergarten or day care center) during the week. When they got to Shochen Ad in the service, they stopped and had a presentation about Ruth, the megillah that we will read on Shavuot (which is next Friday). The guy who was presenting was very interesting. He gave a handout, too, so we can study more on our own. Even though it was all in Hebrew, I got quite a bit of it. Apparently, there is some midrash about Orpah, Ruth's sister who went back to her family in Moab instead of going with Ruth and Naomi to Beit-Lechem. According to this story, Orpah later went to the Philistines and became the ancestor of Goliath! This means that David and Goliath would actually have been distant cousins! What an interesting twist on an otherwise very familiar story!

After the presentation, we moved over to the synagogue next door. It is an orthodox shul, but, when they were finished with their service (we had to wait a few more minutes), they left and we took over the place, removing the mekhitzah (the curtain separating the women's section from the rest of the room). There we began at Shochen Ad and continued with the rest of the service, which included a bar mitzvah celebration. This was a REAL bar mitzvah, not the huge party that one so often sees these days in the States. The boy chanted Torah and haftarah, and they did throw candy at him when he was done. But he was not dressed up particularly special (NOBODY wears ties, and some were even wearing jeans!), and there was only a simple kiddush after the service. This seems much more sensible to me.

On the trip over and back, we got a chance to get better acquainted with Margaret. She is a very interesting woman, originally from England, although she has been in Israel for more than 2 decades. She has 2 doctorates and is always interested in learning new things. Right now, she's in a 2-year program in librarianship, and she also has studied voice and khazzanut (what cantor's do: chanting prayers, Torah, and haftarah). We're already cooking up plans with her for Friday evening services at the shul here in Tsfat, something they have not done in some time. Even if it's just the 3 of us, it will be fun. The shul here is actually on the ground floor of her house, and the congregation rents the space from her.

Okay, I'll really try not to let so many days slip by before I write again.

Okay, I'll really try not to let so many days slip by before I write again.

28 & 29 May 2006


Sunday was fairly uneventful (or so we thought until I read the news today!). We went to ulpan class in the evening, and it went quite well. I made sure to sit right next to David to make sure that he didn't get lost (not physically, silly!).

Today, I think I've got a touch of some kind of flu. I'm achy, my chest feels congested, and I think I may have had a slight fever, although I didn't actually measure it. I'll probably feel better tomorrow. Anyway, I basically just lazed around and didn't do anything today.

When I read the news this morning, I was surprised to find out that there had been some clashes along the Lebanon border on Sunday. It apparently started when hizzbollah shot a Ketyusha missile at the Israeli base on Har Meron (the second highest spot in Israeli, located west and a little north of Tsfat). This means that the missile had to fly right over the road that we traveled on just the day before, to Kfar Vradim. Of course, Israeli retaliated and bombed several command sites in Lebanon. There was also a small gun battle (or at least a shooting) near Menara, right next to the border and the location of the mountain station for the cable cars. I've been there 3 times and, in fact, have quite a few pictures of Lebanon from that area. For a while, all the people living in Nahariya and Kiriat Shmona were ordered into their bomb shelters, but, luckily, no rockets were fired at either of those two cities near the border. By the time the UN managed to negotiate a cease fire (at the end of the day), 2 Israeli soldiers had been injured, no one was killed on our side, and several militant leaders in Lebanon were killed by the air strikes.

Does all this frighten us? No, it really does not; it just makes us more determined to be right here!

30 & 31 May & 1, 2, & 3 June 2006


Five days? How can this be? Hmmmmm....

I had a pretty nasty cold this week. Both Monday & Tuesday were almost lost days for me. I had a slight fever and just had no energy, which is quite unusual for me. On Wednesday, though, I felt better and we went to class in the evening with no problem. On Thursday, it turned into a regular head cold, with runny nose and clogged sinuses. I didn't feel as tired, though, and I managed to get to the market and get us supplies for the long weekend.

Although neither of us actually remembered it until evening, Thursday, 1 June, was the 10th anniversary of our wedding at BCC. How time flies! There's no WAY we could have imagined back then where we'd be now! What a wonderful adventure together it continues to be!

Friday was Shavuot, and we went again with Margaret to morning services at Kfar Vradim. One of the things that is done on Shavuot is to chant the entire book of Ruth. Margaret chanted chapters 1 and 3, and the rabbi there chanted chapters 2 and 4. We again enjoyed the service very much. This time, they stayed in the gan room for the whole service, rather than moving to the orthodox shul for the last part.   There was a group of young men there who had just enlisted in the army (which is, of course, mandatory for all young people here when they finish high school). They had a big group aliyah and all stood together under a very large tallit. There must have been 15 or 20 of them. There were also special blessings for them, and each received a small prayer book as a gift. No matter what happens to them during their national service, they will all know that there are people praying for them; people who are grateful for the work they will be doing to make us all safe.

After services, we returned home, where we had invited Margaret to eat lunch with us. We not only had a nice lunch, we also had a most enjoyable conversation, all of us getting to know each other better. Margaret is definitely going to be one of our best friends here; she is such an intelligent and interesting person!

Since Shavuot is hardly distinguishable from Shabbat, it felt like 2 Shabbats in a row here, a rather strange and disorienting feeling. We decided NOT to go to services today, even though Margaret was going and had invited us to come along. My cold is still not gone, although I'm definitely feeling better today than yesterday, and, besides, I needed to feed the snakes. When I did, I discovered 3 good eggs! It was K'tanah, one of our 2 female amelanistic Emory rat snakes, who had laid them. So, these are the first eggs of the year, our first in Israel (in fact, almost certainly the first amelanistic Emory rat snake eggs ever in Israel!), and the first from K'tanah, since this is the first year that she and her sister, Y'karah, were big enough to breed. If all goes well, this means that we'll have our first baby snakes sometime during the first half of August.

Tomorrow, we have a LONG day. David has appointments with the diabetes nurse and the dietician (in the same office) at Checkpost (in Haifa) at 11:30. Rather than returning to Tsfat and then turning around and heading back almost immediately to Carmiel, we'll simply ride from Haifa to Carmiel, getting some lunch there and hanging out until class, at 5:30 in the evening. But, it will make for a long day, with no naps. At least we don't have to get up too early!

4 June 2006


We had a good trip to Haifa. As we were riding along on the bus, I noticed that a girl just across the aisle and forward of us had a small calico kitten in a soft bag. She was petting the kitten very gently, and every so often the kitten would look up at her with big, soulful eyes and say a soft "meow". It was so cute!

Although David only had appointments with the diabetes nurse and the dietician, he also got to see the diabetes doctor briefly. It seems that his kidney function has gone down some, so he'll be taking some medicine for that, and he'll have to start limiting his intake of potassium. This is rather tricky, since many healthy fruits and vegetables are high in potassium, and nearly everything has SOME potassium. Still, all of this should make him start feeling better and give him more energy.

We did go to Carmiel afterwards, ate lunch there, and went to class. The class was good, but not particularly remarkable. The #501 bus was somewhat later than usual (and it's ALWAYS behind the schedule on the bus company web page). Then, after we passed Meron, we were stuck behind a slow-moving military convoy all the way up to Tsfat. The convoy turned left to go to the Tsfat military camp at the same intersection where we turned right, but by then we were just about to the central bus station. It was quite windy out but not cold, so we walked home from the bus stop quite comfortably.

5, 6, 7, & 8 June 2006


Monday (5 June) we took it quite easy, since we knew that we had another long day ahead of us on Tuesday. We did get our second clutch of eggs on Monday, though. Not surprisingly, this one was laid by Y'karah, K'tanah's sister. They are both housed this year with their brother, Mikhael, who is, of course, the papa.

Tuesday, David had an appointment again with Dr. Shakhar, the HIV specialist at Rambam Medical Center in Haifa. Since we knew that we would be traveling to Haifa, I arranged to pick up a big sack of vermiculite in HaBonim, a moshav south of Haifa along the coast of the Mediterranean. So, here's the story of 8 busses, 2 private cars, and a taxi:

First, we traveled on the Tsfat #4 bus from near our place to the Tsfat central bus station (about a 5-7 minute trip). Then we went on #361 to Merkazit HaMifratz (The Gulf Center) in Haifa (a trip of 1.5 to 2 hours). Next, we went on the Haifa #108 bus to the Rambam Medical Center (about half an hour). After David's appointment, I called the woman at the factory in HaBonim to make sure that everything was in order. Then we took Haifa local bus #103 from near Rambam to Merkazit Khof HaKarmel (The Carmel Beach Center) still in Haifa (only a few minutes along the main highway in Haifa). I had been to Merkazit Khof HaKarmel once before, last summer when I traveled from the University of Haifa after my ulpan there was done to Jerusalem. It is a really nice, new bus station which also includes a kanyon (shopping mall). From there, we took the #921 bus south to where the road to HaBonim leaves highway #4 (a trip of maybe 15-20 minutes). From there, we hitchhiked the 2 kilometers to the moshav itself. A nice lady who spoke English picked us up and took us right to the office where we needed to be. The lady there was waiting for us (I had called right after getting off the bus) with the big 100-liter bag of vermiculite, which we use, soaked with water, beneath our snake eggs to keep them from drying out. We also use it to make "swamps" for the snakes so that they can get more moist and shed their skin more easily. In the U.S., I got vermiculite at The Home Depot in 3.3-liter bags for something like $2 each. So the bag I got here is equivalent to about 30 of those bags in the U.S., but I only had to pay 70 shekels. This means I paid about a quarter of the price. Of course, on the other hand, I had to travel to the factory here!

Another lady in the office took us in her car back to the bus stop along the highway, we caught the #921 bus back to Haifa, took the #103 from Merkanzit Khof Ha-Karmel to Merkazit HaMifratz, and returned to Tsfat on the #361 bus. When we got back here, Asher was not available, but we took another taxi home. The 100-liter bag is not very heavy, but it's a little bulky. On the intercity busses, we simply put it in the space underneath where people put luggage.

On Wednesday, we ran a few errands and stocked up a bit on groceries in the morning. Then we went to class as usual in the evening. The walk home from Park HaPsalim (The Sculture Park) was pleasant with a cool but not cold breeze and a nice clear night view of the twinkling lights of T'verya along the way.

Today (Thursday) we picked up a couple of items from the post office (from the life insurance company who will pay off the mortgage if I should die), got David's prescriptions filled (at Sha'arei Ha-Ihr), bought some nuts at the spice shop in town, got some cash from the ATM, ordered more cat food and cat litter (to be delivered this evening), and went and did some more grocery shopping down at Hiperneto (now SuperSal) in the south part of the town. Again Asher was not available, so I ordered another taxi, and we got a pleasant ride home in a Skoda Fabia station wagon.

When I checked, I found out that we have more eggs! Khumah, our caramel corn snake who is heterozygous for amelism (and so is her mate, Khum) had laid these. There were 17 of them, but at least 2 of them are not good almost for sure. Unfortunately, she seems to have another one stuck, and if it doesn't get out of there very soon, she will die!

This afternoon, we traveled into town again to have late lunch (or early supper!) at Mul Ha-Har, our favorite restaurant in town. This was to celebrate the 10th anniversary of our wedding, which was actually a week ago, but we hadn't had a chance to really celebrate it yet. So we had a pleasant and delicious meal (parmesan ravioli with alfredo sauce and cheese, a side of bread, water, and a glass of white wine). After a brief chat with Meir and Aharon at the furniture and appliance store, we got on the #4 bus and headed home again.

9, 10, & 11 June 2006


I took Khumah, the egg-bound snake, to the vet on Friday morning, because the egg was still stuck. Even though she was the first snake they had ever had as a patient in their office, the vet was able to get the egg, as well as 3 others, out of her by massaging them back to the cloaca. So, she should be fine now. These 4 eggs are probably not good, but one can't tell for sure, so we'll certainly keep them and see. The vet and his assistant were both very nice, and their office is within walking distance from here, not far from Sha'arei Ha-Ihr.

On Friday evening, we had agreed with Margaret to lead services together. Earlier in the week, we had gotten together and figured out what tunes we knew. There was only one other couple there besides the 3 of us, and they came in quite late. Still, we really enjoyed leading a Friday night service once again, and this was actually the first kabbalat Shabbat service we have ever been to in Tsfat, the city where this service actually originated!

After the service, all 5 of us went upstairs to Margaret's apartment and had a delicious supper that Margaret had fixed. The other couple, Yaakov and Liz, are also members of the congregation (in fact, Liz is the president) and good friends of Margaret. She had known that they were planning to be there and had also invited them to supper.

On Shabbat morning, we again traveled with Margaret to services in Kfar Vradim. They stop the service just before Shokhen Ad and have the Torah discussion at that point. This week it was led by the rabbi himself, Zvi Berger. Even though it was, of course, all in Hebrew, I picked up quite a bit of what people were saying, though not enough to actually make any comments of my own. After that, we moved over next door to the orthodox synagogue, although we had to wait quite a while for them to finish. There was another bar mitzvah this week (in OUR group), and, in fact, most of the people at the service were obviously there because of their connection to the bar mitzvah boy. I think this is the first time I've heard a 13-year-old boy whose speaking and singing voice had already changed. One of the neat things about being here in Israel where everyone speaks Hebrew is that even very secular relatives who know nothing about Jewish services or chanting can still read the Torah blessings fluently and thereby have an important part in the ceremony.

Today (Sunday) I fed the snakes and cleaned out all their terraria. Some are still gravid (that is, they still have eggs in them), but no one else had laid any eggs yet.

As I write this, it's only early afternoon. In about an hour, we'll leave the house, go into town and eat at Mul Ha-Har, and catch the bus to Carmiel for our evening ulpan class.

12 & 13 June 2006


Our class was good, as usual, on Sunday evening. It was so cool out when we got back to Tsfat that I was glad I had brought my sweater.

Monday, we walked over to Sha'arei Ha-Ihr. We went first to the pharmacy to pick up some prescriptions, and then we did a little shopping at the market there. We waited and rode the bus home. In the evening, we watched TV: Friends, Seinfeld, Just Shoot Me, Malcolm in the Middle, Married with Children, and a little CNN & BBC news. A train going north from Tel Aviv to Haifa struck a pickup that had apparently stalled on the tracks. At least 5 people were killed, and many more, of course, were injured. It is believed, though, that this was NOT an attack, merely a tragic accident. Helicopters were going in and out of the base just north of us all day. I don't know if this was related to the train wreck or not.

This morning (Tuesday), I went into Google World after not having opened that application in some time. If you haven't yet discovered this really COOL program, available for free download from Google, you certainly should check it out right away! What was really exciting this morning was that I discovered that the resolution for this area (and much though not all of the rest of Israel) has improved considerably since my last visit. Previously, one could only make out the most important features and some rather fuzzy lines showing some of the streets and roads. Now, one can see individual houses and vehicles on the roads! The really NEAT thing about Google World is that not can you get views from directly overhead, you can also change the view to non-vertical, slant angles, almost down to horizontal. Although these are all actually computed from the overhead views (so buildings can look rather weirdly flattened), they really give you much more of a feel of actually being in the place you are looking at. The horizons are amazingly accurate, and you really can sense the "lay of the land".

So I looked at Tsfat from many different angles and at many different zoom levels. Using a program on my computer called "Grab" (which comes free with the Mac OS!), I captured 10 of these views. Then I went into Graphic Converter, added some notations to most of them (including showing where our house is, where several other places I have mentioned frequently are, and the route that we walk when we go to Sha'arei Ha-Ihr), saved them as JPEG files, and uploaded them to a new album on Yahoo called "Tsfat from Google World" at:

http://photos.yahoo.com/arlanwareham

If you do a slide show there, even at slow speed, you won't have time to see all the things on each picture. So, instead, click on the first picture, and from there you can click to move to the next picture when you are ready. The description there are really too brief, so here are more complete descriptions of what you are seeing in each picture:

1. View of Har Khermon. This is the view of Har Khermon and other peaks in the Golan from our house (or really just a little above our house in the air). You might compare this with some of the actual photographs that I have previously posted of Har Khermon. Remember, this picture is actually computed by Google from photographs that were taken from a satellite!

2. Aerial view of Neve Oranim. This is a view of Neve Oranim, our neighborhood. All of these pictures were taken before construction had even started on our house (meaning they are a least a year and a half to 2 years old). Nevertheless, I have marked the approximate location of our house. I have also circled and labeled Park HaPsalim (the Sculpture Park). The road just to the left of it is the main road through Tsfat. If you went south (down on the picture) on this road, you would get to Rosh Pinna (probably 7-10 kilometers, and WAY down at a much lower elevation), which is probably only about 2 or 3 kilometers directly east of our house. It's so close to the hill, though, that we can't see it from here at all.

3. K'naan and Neve Oranim. This picture is zoomed out more, so you can see more of Tsfat. This still, however, does not show ANY of the old city area or downtown Tsfat. On this one, I have marked and labeled our house and Sha'arei Ha-Ihr (Gates of the City), the nearest shopping area to us. I also drew a black line showing the route that we walk to get from here to there.

4. Our house to Sha'arei Ha-Ihr. This picture is from more of a slant angle and looks almost straight west with our house in the foreground and Sha'arei Ha-Ihr in the background. Again, I have marked and labeled both and have also drawn in our walking route.

5. Our house to downtown and Har Meron. This picture is zoomed out more than the previous one so that you can also see the downtown area of Tsfat and Har Meron in the distance. Here, I have labeled our house, the downtown area, and Har Meron. One comment: because of the slant view (and the fact that the downtown hill is lower in elevation) downtown looks MUCH closer to Sha'arei Ha-Ihr than it actually is.

6. Downtown Tsfat towards us. For this picture, it's as though we have traveled to the far side of downtown Tsfat. In this view, we are looking east, with downtown Tsfat in the foreground and our house in the background. I have labeled our house, and I have circled and labeled the central bus station and Sha'arei Ha-Ihr.

7. Downtown Tsfat. This is an aerial view of downtown Tsfat from directly above. On this picture, I circled and labeled the central bus station, and I also drew a line showing Y'rushalayim Street, the main street in the downtown area, which goes all the way around the hill. The green area that you see just to the right of the center of the picture is a park at the very top of the hill. At the leftmost part of Y'rushalayim Street in this picture, it actually goes under an arch. Palmach Street goes OVER the arch!

8. Downtown Tsfat looking northwest. Now we have moved around the hill a little and are looking are a slant angle towards the northwest. Again I have circled and labeled the central bus station and have marked the route of Y'rushalayim Street.

9. Tsfat from directly overhead. This picture is zoomed out quite a bit, so that you can see both the downtown area and our house in the same picture. I have labeled our house and have circled and labeled Sha'arei Ha-Ihr, the bus station, and the downtown area.

10. Tsfat. This picture is zoomed out even more, so that you can see almost all of Tsfat. I didn't label anything here, but, by now, you can probably figure out where most of the things I have mentioned actually are.

This evening, we are going to a picnic in the forest just down the hill from Tsfat, which is sponsored by Nefesh B'Nefesh, the organization that helped us make aliyah. All of the people in the northern part of Israel that they have helped are invited to this picnic, so we may well meet quite a few other Americans and Canadians who have also recently made aliyah. It should be very enjoyable.

Well, I guess that's enough for now.

14, 15, 16, & 17 June 2006


Four days! Oh well.

The picnic on Tuesday was indeed very enjoyable, and we did meet some other interesting people from the U.S., including a few who live here in Tsfat (of course, in the old city area, not near us).

Wednesday was a good day, with our usual good class in the evening.

Thursday, David had an appointment with Dr. Nechmad, and it was a good thing, too, because he wasn't feeling very good that day. He finally got a prescription for fexofenadine (Allegra in the U.S.), which works much better for him at clearing the sinuses than any of the other 2nd generation antihistamines. We also went over to Margaret's to help her clear books off of the tables and onto the newly installed shelves of the library in the shul beneath her house.

Friday evening, Margaret came over here for supper and then took us to Kfar Vradim for Friday evening services. As always, we had a very enjoyable time visiting with her, and we also enjoyed the services.

This morning (Saturday), I found that another snake (Sarah) had laid her eggs. This means that 6 of the 9 who may lay eggs this year have already laid theirs.

We walked to services this morning at Shalvah, the synagogue at Margaret's house. There were visitors from the U.S. there today, so there were more people than last time. In particular, we had more than a minyan (10 people), so we had a Torah service. Afterwards, Zohar, a student rabbi who helps out there, and her husband gave us a ride home, as they did last time.

18, 19, 20, 21, & 22 June 2006


FIVE days! I've really got to mend my ways! :-)

On Monday afternoon, we rented a car in Carmiel for 2 days. This was because we needed to travel to Jerusalem on Tuesday to apply for jobs. A company called IDT Global, whose main office is in Jerusalem, had been considering opening an office here in Tsfat. They had told me that they have open recruiting every Tuesday at noon, so we wanted to go and check it out. They are basically a call center, that is, they accept calls from and place calls to people in the States and other countries. This includes sales, fund raising, debt collection, and customer service. Their largest client is AOL. They accept calls from people who want to cancel their AOL accounts, and, in that case, their job is to try to convince the people to stay with AOL.

We (David; our ulpan friend, Betsy, who made aliyah from Florida; and I) filled out the application, took the simple computer literacy test, and waited our turns to be interviewed. It turns out that the company had already decided NOT to open an office in Tsfat in the near future, so it really won't be a job possibility for us after all. Nevertheless, it was a good experience.

We picked Betsy up in Carmiel (she still lives at the absorption center there) and traveled to Jerusalem via Highway 6 (the toll road). After the interviews, though, we decided to return via the Jordan Valley, a completely different route. We also brought Betsy up here to our house in Tsfat, since she had not been here before. Then I took her home to Carmiel and returned to Tsfat. On Wednesday, we returned to the car to Carmiel and then went to class there later in the evening.

As we were walking home from where the bus let us off last night (Wednesday night), we met 3 lost cows! There's really no other explanation for 3 cows wandering around in a vacant area between houses later than 9:00 at night. Unfortunately, we were not able to help them find their way. For one thing, we really don't even know where they belong.

Today, we had to travel to Carmiel once again. David had an order for a bone density test, and, apparently, Carmiel is the nearest place where they do that. So, we road the bus down, I stopped at the electric company office there and paid our bill (I'm sure there's also an office in Tsfat, but I haven't bothered to try to locate it, since I know where the one in Carmiel is), and we proceeded to Mercaz Big (yes, that's really its name!), where David's test was to be done. It turns out that his bone density is generally normal other than a slight reduction in the hips. After that, we ate at the Aroma restaurant there, had a little glidah (Israeli ice cream), and headed back to Tsfat. When we got to the central bus station, we took the #6 bus down to Hiperneto, did some grocery shopping, and took a taxi home.

23, 24, 25, & 26 June 2006


Time is just FLYING by! We really didn't do much of anything on Friday. On Shabbat, we went again with Margaret to Kfar Vradim for services. Another boy was becoming a bar mitzvah, and, as always, it was great to see a family celebrating together.

As you may have read in the news, there was an attack early Sunday morning in southern Israel. The Palestinians had tunneled under the border fence and attacked an Israeli military outpost. Two soldiers were killed and a third, Gilad Shilat, was kidnapped. Today, we received an e-mail from Rabbi Zvi Berger of the congregation in Kfar Vradim telling us that Gilad became a bar mitzvah at that congregation 6 years ago and that his best friend is the son of a good friend of theirs. So, although we have not personally met him, please pray with us for the safe return of Gilad. As of this moment, no one knows exactly where he is or what has happened to him.

Over quite a bit of time recently, David has been having more and more trouble with nausea. It got so bad that yesterday he wasn't able to keep anything down. Of course, he didn't go to ulpan with me. This morning, we called Carcom, the nurse at the HIV clinic at Rambam in Haifa about it, and she told me to get him to the doctor here in Tsfat today. So I called the appointment line. I am now able to schedule appointments with the doctor in Hebrew, since often the person does not speak English very well. This time, I found out that our regular doctor wasn't working today, so I got David an appointment with a different doctor.

At about 9:40 I got an appointment for 11:00, so I called to order a taxi (our favorite driver, Asher). Unfortunately, his car broke down, so he had to call us at 10:45 and let us know that he couldn't take us. This meant that we HAD to walk. It's about a 15-20 minute walk from here. Fortunately, along the way Zion, our builder and next-door neighbor, stopped and gave us a ride the rest of the way.

When we got to see the doctor (Dr. Darmon), he was obviously an orthodox man (kipah, black slacks, white shirt, with tsitsit (prayer fringes) hanging out from under his shirt). I'll admit that I was just a bit prejudiced, but, in the end, he turned out to be a good and compassionate doctor. He called both the HIV nurse (Carcom) and the HIV doctor (in Haifa) on the phone to consult with them while we were there. He prescribed anti-nausea medication in both pill form and suppository form (in case David couldn't keep the pills down). Fortunately, the first pill worked really well, and David is already feeling much better. Tomorrow, we will be going to Rambam (the medical center in Haifa) as we had already planned last week to pick up meds there. So David's HIV doctor (Dr. Shakhar) will also see him at that time.

Dr. Darmon spoke some English, but he was obviously not too secure in it. My Hebrew was definitely helpful, and I was able to use it fairly well, too!

27, 28, 29, & 30 June & 1 July 2006


Oh no! FIVE more days! I've got to get some better habits. Oh well.

We did see Dr. Shakhar, and he also brought in his boss, the chairman of the department, as well. It seems likely that one cause of David's nausea may have been the very small dose of medicine that he was taking to help his kidneys. One of its main affects is to lower blood pressure, and David's blood pressure has been running so low that this may be one cause of the nausea. Luckily, his kidney problem is probably not very advanced, so the best solution for now is to go off that medicine. He did do that, and he has been feeling steadily better.

On Wednesday, we went down to Carmiel early because I wanted to get some sandals. I have tended to have trouble with sandals previously because they often rub my feet and create sore spots. But I wanted some shoes that I could wear without socks, and my thongs, though quite comfortable for short distances and around the house, are not really good for walking longer distances. We ate some pizza at a place where we have eaten several times before, on the lowest level of the kanyon (mall) that is next to the absorption center in Carmiel. Then I went to the shoe store right by there and found some excellent sandals for only 50 shekels (about $11). So, I'm gradually beginning to look a little more Israeli (nearly everyone here wears sandals without socks in the summer, even to services), and my feet are staying both dry and comfortable, even when walking quite a bit.

The last several days, I have been working more intensely on my Hebrew. At the Haifa bus station, they hand out, to each person getting off an arriving intercity bus, daily newspapers specially prepared for bus and train riders. The first two pages of the issue I picked up on Tuesday when we were there were almost ALL about the capture of Israeli soldier, Gilad Shalit, and Israel's response. So, I've been going through the articles, circling words I don't know the exact meaning of, looking them up in the dictionary, and making flash cards. In this way, I will build my vocabulary, and it is less taxing since I am actually interested in the contents of the articles. I have learned that Israel will not release prisoners in exchange for information of Gilad's whereabouts, that Israel knows what to do and will do it (according to the prime minister), that Gilad is also a French citizen (which prompted a visit to his family by the French ambassador and promises of French help), that Hillary Clinton has called on the international community to help get him released, and that his family has written an open letter and believes that his captors also have families and can understand how they feel.

Last night (Friday night), we went and ate supper with Margaret, and afterwards the 3 of us went downstairs to the synagogue and had our own little kabbalat Shabbat service. Then she took us home.

This morning, she picked us up again, and we all went to services at Kfar Vradim. There was another boy celebrating becoming a bar mitzvah again this week, and there were many people there who were obviously his family and friends, most of whom, I believe, were from very secular backgrounds. The most moving moment, though, for me was when the rabbi read a special misheberach (a prayer of request during the time when the Torah is out of the ark) that he had written especially to pray for Gilad Shalit and his safe return to his family. As I mentioned earlier, Gilad had celebrated his bar mitzvah in that very same congregation about 6 years ago.

After services, Margaret stayed and ate lunch with us, and then we talked, and I showed her some of my music on my computers, playing examples for her. I also showed her some photographs that I had taken while still in the States, including Death Valley, the Living Desert, and scenes from the Inland Empire.

2 & 3 July 2006


We went down to Carmiel early yesterday (Sunday) and tried out a new restaurant called Art de Coco. It's located right across from Mercaz Big. We had a very delicious fettucini primavera and a scrumptious dessert, and it wasn't too expensive, either. Then we took the local Carmiel bus to the main station and walked over to our ulpan class.

Today, I fed the snakes. The 15 of them who are almost 2 years old are growing really fast. They had been eating only juvenile mice, but they all seemed so hungry that I fed them all adults today, and they all ate them, too, even though quite a few of them were in shed.

Tomorrow, I travel to Nahariya to meet with the representative in the North of the Division for the Absorption of Scientists. Actually, their work is to help people with advanced academic degrees (doctorates) to find work in Israel. Emma, at the local absorption office, gave me the e-mail address of the central Jerusalem office of this Division. I wrote them a short cover letter and sent my resume, both in Hebrew. They called me back the same day. We talked only in Hebrew on the phone, setting up this appointment in Nahariya. So, I'll be traveling on bus #367, which is a Nativ Express route instead of Egged, the company that runs most of the busses in Israel. Nativ Express (which means "express lane") is also the local bus company here in Tsfat.

4, 5, 6, & 7 July 2006


Well, I did make the trip to Nahariya on the 4th. It was rather interesting since the bus went off the main highway and all around in the city of Maalot. It's quite a lovely place, with parks, sculptures, and nice houses and public buildings. Since many of the streets are one-way, I got a somewhat different tour on the returning trip. We also detoured to Tarshikhah, an obviously Arab town right by Maalot. There, we only went through a few blocks of the downtown area. It's also quite a nice and prosperous town.

When I arrived in Nahariya, I looked around the central bus station a bit and then asked the guard (in Hebrew) where Keren HaYesod Street was. He didn't know, but he asked a merchant nearby and then pointed in out to me. When I got to the street, I wasn't absolutely certain (since there were no signs), so I asked a passer-by, who confirmed that it was the right street. Then I easily found #14 where the office is located. Since it was an apartment building, I called to find out where to go.

The guy I talked to, Reuven Weisz, was nice, but the discussion was not too encouraging. I don't really have any skills that they need here in research and development. He will be referring me to the department that deals with education, although working in the schools is difficult, doesn't pay very well, and would require re-training. He did suggest that I also contact the various colleges, some of whom I have already gotten in touch with. I guess that generally I mostly learned what I already knew. Anyway, I still don't think the visit was wasted.

When the visit was over, it was only about 11:30 or so, and the next bus back to Tsfat wouldn't leave until 3:15. I had checked the schedules from my computer at home before leaving, so I already knew this. Even though it was rather hot and very humid, I walked along the main street towards the sea. The beach area has been very nicely improved, with walkways, shaded places to sit, and a short jetty out into the ocean. So I was able to sit in the shade, and I even worked a little on my Hebrew, having brought my pocket translator and my all-Hebrew dictionary with me.

Then I began walking back towards the bus station. Along the way, I took plenty of time to browse in various shops. There were LOTS of them, but I spent more time in the air-conditioned ones! I ate at Aroma, which is in the same chain as the one at Mercaz Big in Carmiel. I had a nice cheese and vegetable sandwich. Afterwards, I also stopped and got some very delicious glidah (ice cream, but better than in the U.S.!).

As I was riding the bus back, David called while I was on the second grand tour of Maalot. We arranged to meet at the bus station and went to eat at Mul HaHar. I wasn't very hungry, of course, so I just had a salad.

On Wednesday, we again went down to Carmiel early. This time, we ate pizza in the kanyon (mall) next to the absorption center (where our class is). Then I took my sandals, which I had only bought a week before, back to the store because the bottom of one of them was separating. They wouldn't exchange it, but they did agree to fix it. I bought another pair of sandals (more expensive but of better quality), and David got a pair of athletic shoes, since his old New Balance shoes that he bought a couple of years ago in the U.S. are just about worn out and were beginning to hurt his feet. He's very happy with his new shoes.

Other than that, not too much of great interest has been happening. Tonight, we'll make Shabbat quietly at home. Then tomorrow morning we will travel again with Margaret to Kfar Vradim. This time, she will be reading part of the Torah portion.

8, 9, & 10 July 2006


We had a GREAT time on Shabbat with Margaret. Services at Kfar Vradim were enjoyable, as usual. There was a bar mitzvah again, and the boy's mother, who, of course, didn't know me at all, invited me for an aliyah (going up to witness and bless part of the Torah reading). Of course I agreed, and I felt very honored. After services, Margaret again joined us for lunch and lots of good conversation. David made curried vegetables and mock duck, and it was delicious. We spent quite a bit of time talking about how to develop and promote the library at the shul here in Tsfat. We all felt that we had a better idea of what needs to be done to make it into a real library.

Sunday (yesterday) was a very LONG day. We had to leave the house at 7:30 in order to make it to David's appointment with the diabetes nurse at Checkpost in Haifa. He also had appointments in the same office with his psychiatrist and the dietician. The diabetes doctor also saw him even though he did not have an appointment with her. After all that, we walked over to the mall, had some pizza, and did a little shopping. I got some new flip-flops (we called them thongs when I was a kid; I don't really know WHAT they call them here) at the supermarket which is in the mall there. I thought they were 30 shekels as the sign said, but when I actually paid for them, they apparently were 50% off because I only had to pay 15 shekels, which is really cheap.

Then we caught the bus to Carmiel, arriving there 3 or 4 hours before our class. We could have traveled home first and then back to Carmiel, but then we would have spent practically all that extra time on the bus, and, of course, we would have spent more money on bus fares. Anyway, we decided to take the local bus over to the "new" kanyon, which I had never been to before. It was interesting to see. Although it's not that big, it's quite busy and popular. After browsing there for a while, we traveled back to the area of the absorption center. We ate some falafel for supper and bought 3 CDs before heading for class.

Today I went over to the post office in Sha'arei Ha-Ihr to pay the cable bill (which also includes our internet access). Then I bought a few things at the supermarket there and came back home. Most of the rest of the day was spent feeding snakes. Then, just before 5:00 we left and traveled into town to eat supper at Mul Ha-Har. The Festival of Klezmer Music is happening here now (yesterday, today, and tomorrow). The main streets in town are closed in the late afternoon and evening, but virtually ALL the stores were opened, and there were also lots of people up and down the streets selling things to tourists at tables. It was quite a festive atmosphere. As we were walked along, who should we see coming towards us but D'vorah, our ulpan teacher! We chatted briefly with her, and she introduced us to the other two people who were with her. We walked over to the area where the concert would be later, next to the Wolfson Community Center. There were lots of plastic chairs set up for the audience to sit on and an elaborate stage, with all kinds of sound and lighting equipment. We decided not to stay for the concert, though, partly because it was already rather on the cool side, even though the sun was not quite set yet. But mostly we were worried about getting home afterwards, since the local busses don't run all that late, and it's a long, uphill walk to our house from town (probably a good 2 miles!).


Note: the entries after this date continue on a separate page, which contains all the entries during the war of July/August 2006. You can go there by clicking here.