Mount Belford - Mount Oxford

PEAK: Mount Belford/Mount Oxford
DATE: 8/8/93
TEAM: Mark R. Vanderbrook

I was thankful for the spacious parking area when I arrived at the Missouri Gulch trailhead at 6:00 — there were 17 other vehicles already there. Fresh from disappointments in the Tetons, I was hungry for a summit. Or, better yet, two summits.
The drive up from Buena Vista had been a familiar one. I had used the same trailhead to climb Missouri Mountain the preceding year, and had climbed both Huron and La Plata from Winfield, just a couple of miles further up the valley. Also familiar were the pre-dawn clouds which hung over much of the central Sawatch. Rain had been an element of each of those earlier climbs, and I was concerned that the weather might cost me Oxford.
I set a smart pace up the switchbacks as light grew in the sky. Checking my altimeter after 30 and 60 minutes, I was pleased to be maintaining 1400 vertical feet per hour.
Shortly after 7:00, I caught up with another climber pausing beside the trail. Alfonso S. Sanchez, 59, a retired electrical engineer from Minnesota — and probably the most organized fourteener climber I have ever encountered — had the same goal as I: Belford and Oxford. After a short stop, we set off together.
Al was an engineer through and through. His homemade walking staff, constructed of a fiberglass shaft, golf club grip and cane tip, was equipped with a quick-disconnect fitting, as were his gloves and his home-brew fanny pack. Any of it could be conveniently attached to the rest of it. And an elastic strap connected his glasses to the collar of his shirt: easy on, easy off. But it was when he pulled out his hand-drawn charts and tables crammed with fourteener statistics, and his 10-year plan for climbing them, that the full measure of his organization became apparent. This was a man on a climbing mission.
Together, we followed the trail past the remains of an old cabin at about 11,300 feet, and on toward treeline. We passed several tents. The steep, forested switchbacks of lower Missouri Gulch had been left behind, and the steep northwest slopes of Mount Belford lay ahead; we made good progress on this relatively flatter ground.
After a short while, we came to the cairn-marked fork where those bound for Missouri Mountain turn right, and those enroute Mount Belford bear left. Presently, the trail began to climb onto Belford’s grassy northwest shoulder. Al set and maintained a good pace, despite the steepness and looseness of the terrain. As we gained elevation, the clouds broke up somewhat, encouraging us, and revealing fine views of La Plata, Huron and Missouri.
As we continued to climb, however, the clouds began to build again. At last the slope became less steep, and we hurried up the last couple of hundred feet onto Belford’s rocky summit. It was 10:15. By this time, a thick, brooding layer of clouds had begun to lower, and a brisk, cold wind was gusting from the northwest. We were disappointed to discover the remnants of a broken summit register container.
I took some pictures, had Al take my picture, then we had some food and water. The weather continued to worsen as we pondered our chances for a traverse to Oxford. The summits of Mounts Elbert and Massive wore dark, ominous cloud-crowns; thunder — not too close, but not too far — reverberated among the peaks. At 10:30, unsure we would make Oxford but certain we didn’t want to stay atop Belford, we started down the connecting ridge.
Shortly before we had descended to the broad, gentle saddle suspended between the two peaks, the snow pellets caught us, and the wind stiffened to make conditions that much more miserable. Quickly, we donned raingear, then discussed our options. The thunder had stayed to the north of us, and had moved eastward past us; we decided that the brunt of the storm must be upon us, and that conditions were likely to improve rather than worsen. Thus resolved, we pulled our hoods tightly about our faces to shield ourselves from the wind-driven snow, and set off again.
At 11:45, with the snow finally beginning to taper off, we trudged onto our second summit for the day. Here we found a summit register, which we quickly signed — I without removing my soggy gloves from my chilled fingers. Although we had experienced no electrical phenomena during our ascent, we prepared to set off again at once. No sense tempting fate.
As we made our return trip to Belford, the snow stopped, and the solid layer of clouds began to fray, revealing small patches of brilliant blue. The brisk wind which had buffeted us on the eastward traverse stayed with us however, until we regained Belford’s summit, at about 2:00. Here Al decided to head south, then west toward Elkhead Pass and a possible stab at Missouri Mountain; having already climbed that peak I wished him well, and started back down the trail into upper Missouri Gulch. Having climbed comfortably together, we exchanged phone numbers before parting company.
It was becoming apparent that the improvement in the weather was to be short-lived, so I made an effort to make reasonably good time down the steep, loose trail. It was not long after I had descended below treeline that the rain started, then the thunder. The remainder of the trip back to the trailhead was in a steady rain, with rivulets of muddy water racing along beside my boot tracks. At 4:30, I crossed Clear Creek, unlocked my truck, and tossed my soggy pack inside.
As I was preparing to start the drive home, Al came hiking across the parking area. He had wisely chosen to leave Missouri Mountain for another day.
After discussing the possibility of climbing Mount of the Holy Cross together, I set off, toward Buena Vista and home. I was happy to have made two summits — doubling my count for the summer, to four — and to have set a personal, one-day elevation gain record: 5,910 feet. And, having climbed my 25th and 26th fourteeners, I was one peak shy of the halfway mark.

Warning:

Mountain climbing entails certain risks and can be a dangerous activity. Many Colorado peaks have seen climbing fatalities. The most common factors in mountaineering accidents are poor judgement, inadequate physical conditioning and improper equipment. When faced with bad weather, fatigue or terrain that may be beyond your abilities, turn back. The mountain will still be there when you’re stronger, more experienced or better-equipped for another attempt. And remember: the summit is only the halfway point. Many accidents occur while a party is descending from the summit.

If you climb, do not rely solely on the information contained herein. Do not assume that the route descriptions are completely accurate. The route descriptions were written after-the-fact from memory, and human memory is fallible. In addition, many factors (especially weather) can cause a route that is normally a “walk-up” to become a serious, hazardous proposition. Thoroughly research your route, have appropriate equipment, anticipate sudden and drastic changes in alpine weather, and know your abilities and limitations. Seek professional instruction before climbing, and build your climbing skills gradually: climb several easier peaks before attempting a more difficult route. Don’t become a statistic!