| Discover Morgan Horses | Equine Medical Care |
"The term "backyard horse" is in common use today, but the average backyard needs some alterations before it will be suitable for your new horse. Besides protection from the weather, a horse needs a place to exercise, and you'll need room to store hay, grain, bedding and tack. Your first step will be to check your local zoning ordinance to be certain horses are allowed. The zoning ordinance will also alert you to any limitations on the size, location, and type of structures permitted in your neighborhood.
All the love (and good intentions) in the world cannot sustain your horse. There is no substitute for a thorough knowledge of the needs of your Morgan, and a realistic approach to meeting these basic requirements. Before you go shopping, consider each of these points carefully to be certain you are ready to dedicate the time and resources that horse ownership entails:
Seek out a quiet, mature Morgan well trained for its intended use. Until a horse is 7 or 8 years old, it is still in the learning stage of life. Though a Morgan can live well into its 20's, bear in mind that a slow crippled horse is no better than a young untrained or "green" horse. Avoid both, and seek out a mature animal that has been well trained.
A mature and healthy Morgan should consume at least two pounds of good hay per 100 pounds of live weight daily. To avoid serious digestive problems, be certain the hay you purchase contains no dust or mold. It is a good idea to buy your hay from a reputable grower. Grain consumption will average 6 to 7 pounds per day for the average Morgan. Grain mixtures should not contain more than 5% corn or barley by weight. If oats are substituted for a grain mixture, be certain your horse always has a salt block available. (Besides hay and water, salt is the only supplement a horse absolutely needs.) Be certain your horse always has an abundant supply of cool clean water.
Pastures need to be fenced with board or vinyl fencing. DO NOT EVER allow your horse into a pasture with metal fence posts and barbed wire. I know many horses are pastured this way, but I guarantee if you ever see a horse who has reared-up and impaled themselves onto a metal T-post, you will understand my fears of this type of fencing! If you are faced with having to use T-posts, there are protective PVC "caps" that slide onto the top of each post, making them safer. (I haven't had to use these yet...I hope they stay on well!)
Also on the subject of pastures, be vigilant about watching for poisonous plants. Deadly nightshade and yew are two common offenders. Another potential danger? Lawn grass clippings, (a classic case of "killing with kindness"). The high nitrogen content of fresh lawn grasses can cause founder, colic, and other serious problems. Compost your clippings instead, and feed your Morgan good quality hay.
Whether you're constructing a brand new building to house your horse, or are converting an existing structure, there are a few key principles to remember.
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Click on any area of the horse above to view appropriate grooming tips. |
As a child I would often walk past a neighboring horse farm and was quite amazed at how frequently I would see horses being brushed, combed and fussed over. Though I didn't realize it at the time, these horse owners were performing a very important task for their keep. If you want your horse to have a clean healthy coat, grooming is a daily necessity.
Use a rubber currycomb to remove deeply embedded dirt and dust, followed by a soft brush to whisk it away. Sturdy combs are available for manes and tails. You'll discover that frequent combing keeps manes and tails manageable, and encourages them to grow strong and full. Also, be prepared for spring! Each winter your horse grows an extra thick coat that sheds in the spring. Extra grooming is needed at this time of year.
Proper hoof care is critical to your horse's health. Use a metal hoof pick to remove stones and debris from the bottom of each hoof before each ride. If you notice your horse favoring one leg over another, stop immediately and check for stones or other sharp objects embedded in the hoof. (If you ever find a nail deeply embedded in a horse's hoof, call your vet to give a tetanus booster and check the wound.) Hooves need to be trimmed regularly by a professional farrier ("blacksmith" is the more popular terms in some parts of the country). A good general rule is to have the farrier trim your horse every 6 weeks during the summer, and every eight weeks in winter when hoof growth is slower due to shorter daylight hours.
"Tack" is the name given to devices that you attach to your horse in order for them to perform work. You use different tack for riding and driving. Bits, bridles, reins, saddles, halters, harnesses, and ropes are all pieces of tack, each with specific designs and uses. The very best advice is to have tack (especially saddles, bits and bridles) fitted to your horse by a professional. Each horse will respond differently to different styles of bits. Until you become familiar with your horse and suitable tack options, seek out advice from a knowledgeable horse-person.
It has been my experience that a "good deal" on tack is often no good deal at all. Buy quality saddles, bits and bridles, you very well may own these for a lifetime. A good quality leather cleaner/conditioner will keep tack from drying out and cracking. You can greatly extend the longevity of your tack by storing it in a clean and dry tack room.
This site is maintained by Rich Horejsi who currently enjoys breeding, training, showing (and loving!) Morgan horses with his partner at Arroyo Morgan Horse Farm in Santa Fe, New Mexico, and welcomes your questions and comments.
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