Tuilik Making

A few pictures of my process for making a Neoprene Tuilik

(These just show the general process and are sure to leave you with questions on the finer points of tuilik making, I hope to sometime include more detail)

The pattern was devised by Shawn Baker and is available for sale (actually a $15 donation) on the QajaqUSA Website.  This pattern can be easily modified to fit you and your boat.  I made my gray one shown in the photo below to fit a keyhole cockpit and pull out and tie off the bungee a little tighter to fit a smaller traditional cockpit.   I have had good results using black neoprene glue to stick the pieces together, however, this is not the only way to put neoprene together.  Shawn Baker has done some very nice work using Aquaseal on his tuiliks (he applies the aquaseal after first sewing the seams).  Here's how I've done it:

Here's the finished Product

I start by gluing together the body pieces on one seam only, after which I glue the grippy strip along the bottom of the body pieces,

I start with the strip a little long, then trim it to length after gluing.

And, then I glue the other body seam,

After gluing the side seams of the body together, I sew a reinforcing stitch on the bottom of the tuilik.  I use a blind running stitch on the inside of the tuilik a distance of 6-8 inches up from the bottom of both side seams.  After that I glue the folded over bungee casing.  I unfortunately didn't get pictures of this part, but the picture below shows the same thing being done on a sprayskirt.  Note the glue strips of equal width on either side of a central glueless strip with a width slightly greater than the bungee circumference.  Also note the folded over seam overlaps the casing to body seam.  Be sure to be generous with the glue on this step -- the fabric facing on the neoprene really sucks the glue.

Now comes the harder part -- the hood.  I start by gluing the under-the-chin seam, and then gluing the hood center strip to the top of one of the hood pieces for a length of only an inch or two.  I do this so the hood pieces will be flat for the attachment of the face-cord casing.  I start with extra length on the casing strip and trim after this step.  The helping hand of assistant can help keep the glue surfaces from premature contact,

To ensure the inward tapering of the face seal, I stretch the casing slightly as I glue it to the hood during this step.  Notice in the next picture my right thumb stretching the casing as it is glued to the hood.   It is a good idea to double check that the hood will fit your face by measuring across your forehead, down the side of your face, under your chin, and back up the other side of your face, and then to make sure that the face seal casing as glued is close to this measurement.

The next step is to glue the fold-over for the face cord casing.  This is the same sort of folded over seam as on the bungee casing. Notice the folded over glued seam overlaps the casing-hood seam. 

I don't have pictures of the remaining steps, but I've already shown the hard part.  For some reason the camera wasn't out during the final steps.  I promise to get the camera out next time and will add more pics of the rest of the process.

The next steps are:

-Glue the rest of the hood center strip to the hood piece

-Glue the other hood side to the hood hood center strip
-Glue the hood to the Body (make sure the face opening is facing the right way!)
-Glue the Sleeve seams (i.e. to get the Sleeves pieces into the "tube" shape)
-Glue the Sleeves to the body
-Thread the face-cord and the bungee.
-Hand stitch reinforcements at the stress points (around the hood, armpits, shoulders, or, just stitch the whole thing, it really doesn't take very long)

I use black neoprene glue (I purchased mine from John R Sweet - www.johnrsweet.com )  I put it on with two applications, 1) apply a first coat, wait at least 5 minutes, 2) apply the second coat, wait 10 minutes, then stick the glued surfaces together.  Especially on the folded over casing seams, make sure your first application is generously applied.  If the glue gets overly thick & sticky, you can thin with a little toluene.  I always wear my respirator when using this glue.

You might also want to check out my presentation on making a neoprene sprayskirt .  It has more detail on the general gluing process and describes some of the other materials used.

-John Doornink - Jan 2005