Vegas Baby! Joe and Lynda's Road Trip 2002.

Joe and Lynda's
Road Trip 2002 ~ Vegas Baby!

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Okay, so you wonder what possessed us to consider a trip to Las Vegas in July. Anyone would think us crazy but our friends Leah and Ross (see Joe and Lynda's Wedding Page) whom we hadn't seen in years were going to be there for Leah's sister Gael's wedding. So what the hell -- there's a lot that I wanted to see that's on the way... And it can't be that far a drive. So before you know it, I've agreed that we'll meet them there without realizing that it's 3000 miles round trip just to get there and back. Hmmm, can you say "in over her head"? One good thing is that there were some things I had been wanting to see for a while that we missed on our first road trip the Vancouver to Houston moving trip -- like Mesa Verde and Bryce Canyon. My friend Lada had recommeded them to me and many others I had talked to concurred that these are not to be missed. So... plans were made and the countdown to trip began. Before we left Mindy suggested Taos, so that was added. One good thing about the way we plan these things (no reservations except for Vegas, AAA trip book in hand and lots of maps) is the flexibility. Three days before leaving we dropped Oklahoma City and added Taos. Cool.

Day 1&2: Saturday morning we got up kinda early and finished packing -- grabbed two bears (it was Dove and Purdy's turn for a 'big bed tour') and under rainy skies set off. Wichita Falls, here we come. We passed through both Sunrise, TX and Sunset, TX that day, but weren't on the road for all that long. Just a quick stopover on our way to Taos, and the next morning we headed out -- out of Wichita Falls, out of Texas, out of the flat! We did get to see the famous sculpture by Ant Farm at Cadillac Ranch on I-40 and our first of many dust devils. We stayed on the I-40 for quite a while until we headed up to Las Vegas, NM on our way to Taos. As we started on the highway we were to take, it looked like more of the same flat, but before we knew it, we were heading into foothills and then mountains. Then it began to rain, making me homesick for BC -- lots of rain and mountains there. We forget when we spend a lot of time in Houston how much we miss the scenery of mountains and ocean, until we get into a scenic area. It was a lovely way to start the vacation part of the trip (getting out of Texas isn't vacation!). The trees and mountains continued to climb and soon we were up in the passes of the Sangre de Cristo mountain range -- with cool windows and temperatures in the 50's. Aaaaaah. The rain made everything green and cool and beautiful. We got settled in for the night at the Sagebrush Inn, finally on vacation after 894 miles! The Sagebrush Inn was particularly attractive to me because Georgia O'Keefe once lived and painted there.

Day 3: The next morning we headed out to see Taos. Now, right up front, I have to say that Joe's not a big 'walk around galleries and browse' kind of guy. We did do some of that and walked around Taos plaza and some of the nearby streets. I saw some lovely artwork, but all way out of our price range. There were quite a few cool stores and a couple of places that we would have like to try for lunch but were very busy. We found a little cafe for lunch (Mainstreet Bakery Cafe) which had really good food for a good price. I dashed off a few postcards then we headed out to Taos Pueblo. North House detail

Taos Pueblo, a World Heritage Site is a continuously inhabited community of Tiwa speaking Pueblo people, or as they call themselves, the Red Willow People. We went on the tour and found out a lot. Their homes (the picture of Lynda, below is in front of the North House) have been continually occupied for about 1000 years. Each door in the photo below represents one family home. The homes are passed down from one generation to the next. The homes once built require maintenance in the form of yearly re-plastering with adobe, woodwork and roof repair. Although these homes (and those of the South House as well) have been continually inhabited for 700-1000 years, few people live there now as there are no modern conveniences. These homes are just as they were gererations ago, no TV, no lights, etc. So most Red Willow People live outside the walls of the village. Some of the homes are now used by the owners to sell their artwork.

We visited the St. Jerome chapel which was built in 1850 and is a National Historic Landmark. It was built to replace the ruins of the St Jermome Chapel , construced in 1619. It is now a sacred area, as all that is left after the US army distroyed it durning the Mexican Amercan war. The US army attacked the Pueblo in retaliation for the murder of the local governor -- believing that the Taos Indians had participated. They shelled the church in which men, women, and children saught sanctuary.

Back in the living area, we saw drying racks, used for drying food in season; and small dome-shaped structures called hornos, used to bake bread. Interestingly the Taos people were taught to make this bread by the Spanish -- before the Spanish influence they made fry-bread. The Taos People speak a language called Tiwa which varies from that spoken in some other Peublos, Tewa. At one point in our tour, our guide (I wish I'd got her name!) showed us a home that had not been kept up -- we could see the adobe bricks since the adobe plaster had crumbled away. It was a fascinating tour and our guide told us much more than I can relate in this forum. There is a cool Taos Pueblo FAQpage you can check out. As we were walking around a wicked windstorm picked up so we took a few more photos, then hustled back to the hotel.

Day 4: Well, this was a travel day again, so we got up early and had a delicious breakfast and then hit the road. Before leaving town we checked our email and stopped at the post office to mail our postcards and get more stamps. As most of our friends know, we are pretty good about sending our postcards from our trips. We wanted to do the "Enchanted Circle" around Wheeler Peak (at 13,161 feet it dominates the area) so headed up highway 64 to Angel Fire. Stopped in town for a look around (quite small and I expect much more bustling in ski season!) and an ice cream at The Copper Steamer. Then off to see the Viet Nam Veterans Memorial. It is an elegant structure outside Angel Fire -- a white wing-like shape rising from the side of a hill. Built by the family of slain soldier David Westphall in 1968, it was declared a national monument in 1987. The visitor's centre had lots of information on the Viet Nam war and notes from veterans and their families. The Chapel, open 24 hours a day, always has David Westphall's picture along with 12 other men and their biographies. It's very touching and sad to think of these men dying so far from home at such a young age. Lynda with forest sign

Back on the road again we picked up the Enchanted Circle on highway 38 through EagleNest, Questo and Arroyo Hondo. As we were driving over Bobcat Pass (9520 ft) we noticed that they had no runaway lanes on some very steep gradess. We are used to seeing them on our travels in BC. We also noticed that the signs din't show the % grade either. Along the way we noticed the Carson National Forest (it's all around Taos) and their signs -- they looked very 50's as if Yogi and Booboo would step out of the forest at any second! Then we took US 64 west towards our next destination, Cortez Colorado.

It wasn't long before we crossed the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. Wow -- this bridge is 650 feet above the water of the Rio Grande river. First, let me say that I never realized that the Rio Grande originated so far north. it is so associated with the southern border between Texas and Mexico. But it's there and been carving a canyon for a very long time! Joe refused to venture out to the centre of the bridge to enjoy the view! But, engineer that he is, he checked out the superstructure! The land around this part of the trip was very flat with mountains barely visible in the distance. This was the summer of fires, and all the smoke from fires in Durango CO and Shiprock, NM and all the other fires burning in the west that summer meant a lot of smoke in the air, and obstructed views. As we were travelling we often wondered how the views would be in a less smoky time.

We stopped in Chama for some lunch at the High Country Restaurant -- then accidentally got on the wrong road (highway 17). We wouldn't have noticed except for the Welcome to Colorado sign! We knew we weren't supposed to be in Colorado yet.... Ooops, fault the navigator (Lynda). Back to Chama and then to the road we wanted -- Hwy. 64/84. We split off the 84 into Colorado heading for Pagosa Springs then took the 160 through Durango to Cortez. Just after we crossed the Continental Divide we crossed into Colorado and witnessed a cow-escape! There they were, trotting down the highway on their way to who knows where. Does that make them free range? As we passed through Durango, we could see that there was quite a lot of smoke in the air but we never saw any fire or where the smoke was coming from. Once we found Cortez, we found a little Travel Lodge and got settled in. We were very distressed to hear that part of Mesa Verde had been closed due to the extreme fire hazard when we checked in, but the night clerk gave us some ideas of what else there was to see.

We found the Cortez Menu Guide in our room which led us to Main Street Brewery where their slogan is "Avoid Heart Attacks, Drink Beer!". Sounds good to us! It was easy to find, right on Main Street! Inside the heritage building, we found a large room with murals all around. We were unsure if they were still serving dinner (it was after 9) but the owner, Rudy, came right up to us, and assured us that they were. He was extremely friendly and nice -- he knew everyone in the place and they all knew him too. He took us into another room opening to the side of the first, with big booths and more murals and a pretty great wine list on one wall. The ceilings were about 20 feet high! We sat down and had a look at the menu and the beer! Joe tried the Black and Tan while I just had a sip of his (this time!). We headed back to the hotel after a very satisfying meal with over 1200 miles on the car. Been quite a trip so far!

Day 5: In the morning we got up late (since we knew we weren't going to Mesa Verde) and had lunch in town at the El Grande Cafe -- a place worthy of Joe's friend, Andrew, a connaisseur of greasy spoons. On our way from the car, we ran into Rudy from the Main Street Brewery who recognized us right away! After a good breakfast, we headed out to the Colorado Welcome Center where we found a very helpful retired Texas to help us figure out what to see. We then headed up Hwy 145 - 184 to the Anasazi Heritage Center in Dolores. The word Anasazi is a Navajo word meaning "ancient ones" or "our ancient enemies" -- but this doesn't really tell us who the Anasazi were. They are now referred to as the ancestral Puebloans, they were the forebearers of the Modern Pueblo Indians, the Zuni, and the Hopi. There are a lot of ancient sites suviving to this day in the Four Corners region, and interest in these people is high as they did a lot of building, then seemingly 'disappeared'.

Joe on the Great Sage Plain In the Anasazi Heritage Center we were able to learn quite a bit about the ancestral Puebloans and the people pre-dating them, the Basketmakers. They have lots of interactive exhibits (Joe found the computer ones right away) and I even tried using a grinding stone to grind corn (harder than it looks!). Then we headed out to see Lowry Pueblo. We found the way okay -- although we were a little worried -- we knew that it was going to be a dirt road for a lot of the way, but we didn't realize how far from everything we were going! Luckily we had a full tank of gas! It's pretty hot and dusty to run out of gas on the way. When we got to Lowry Pueblo we were surprised at how many people were there. A group of archeologists were doing some work and taking notes.

We were also amazed at how dry everything was. Mesa Verde had been partially closed due to the extreme fire hazard and we could really see how tinder dry everything was here. We were right in the middle of the 'Great Sage Plain' an area more than 1500 square miles, deeply scored by canyons and covered with sagebrush and piñon / juniper forest. It's a dry rolling plateau. As we made our way around the site, we were astounded by how dry it was -- the ends of the sagebrush bushes were so dry that they literally crumbled if you touched them. You can see in the picture to the right how dry the earth is below Joe's feet.

We were surprised at the size of the Great Kiva. We had seen kivas on our trip to Houston in 1998, but we didn't really have the context for them at that time. Now we know that kivas are gathering places, usually for family and used for ceremonial purposes. Lowry Pueblo's great kiva is 47 feet across and was probably used as a gathering place for Ancestral Puebloans for hundreds of miles around and was built around 1086.

Lynda at the Great Kiva at Lowry Pueblo ruins

Next we headed over to Hovenweep National Monument which consists of several sites, the largest of which is at Little Ruin Canyon, crossing into Utah to get there. The name Hovenweep is a Ute word meaning deserted valley, which seemed very appropriate when we got there. Yes, there was a lovely visitor's centre, but once we got out on the trail, I had to ask Joe, who would have looked around and said, "Okay, let's stop and live here."??! It seems so isolated and far from anything -- 'course in 1000 AD, it's no more isolated than anywhere else! Still for someone used to mountains, ocean or at the very least, lakes and valleys, this seemed desolate. Except for the evidence of the people who constructed the buildings here between 1230 and 1275. The buildings here were constructed at a later time than at Joe at Hovenweep

Lowry.

As we walked along the trails (in the blazing sun at approximately 6000 feet above sea level) we noticed again how dry everything was. Hovenweep is also part of the Great Sage Plain. And the solitude is almost complete -- there is certainly a reverence in the air as we looked at the ancient ruins and marvelled at the fact that much of them still stand after 700+ years. Also there weren't many people there, we only met a few along the way so you really got a sense of how serene and sacred it is here without masses of tourists.

As we walked further along, we got to see our first 'check dam". Naturally Joe had to make sure we saw it since it's an engineering thing. A check dam is made by blocking the route excess water takes with rocks to capture the water. The checkdam can also bring topsoil, or slow water in a flash flood or allow water to gather there and then seep into the rock below, replenishing the springs. Whatever the reason for them, they are all over the area and were certainly of use to the ancestral Peubloans. Then we headed back to the Hovenweep visitor's centre to pick up some more postcards (I really am quite compulsive!) and some WATER!!!! Silly us, we forgot to pack water with us and sunscreen as well. But luckily there was a machine at the visitor's centre for people like us and best of all it was cold! Aaaaaaaah, water.

After negotiating our way back to Cortez we headed out for another evening at our new favorite eating/drinking establishment, Main Street Brewery. This time I tried the Boomerang Blend (mmmmmmm...) and Joe tried the Doppelbock and the Porter. We had the Bratwurst Burritos (you wouldn't think it would be good but it was) and enjoyed our beer.

After our delectible dinner, it was off to the Cortez Cultural Centre to see some Native American Dances. Ute family demonstrates Native dances

The Cultural Center is right in downtown Cortez with infomation on the peoples of the area and informative evening programs in the summer. We found a good spot in the back of the centre with a good view of the back of the building (which is a tromp l’oiel paintingof a pueblo). A Ute family was performing that night, the father was the drummer and singer, the three daughters and son performed the dances and their uncle was also a dancer. It was very cool. The dad explained each of the dances to be performed and the history behind them. The girls were very good as was the son, but he really wanted to drum too, and his dad was having none of it! It was interesting to watch the little power struggle going on there! The program of dances was varied and well explained. At the end the family invited us all to join them in a 'friendship' dance. Joe was content to watch, but I really wanted to join in so did. There is something so poweful about drumming, that it was irrisible to me. I would definitely be interested in attending a Native American ceremony the next time we are in the area if one is going on.

One last errand before bed -- off to Safeway to pick up some supplies. As we're walking into the store, we notice a bird flying towards us. Now, a lot of large stores get birds inside them so we weren't that surprised at first. Then we thought, 'wait a minute, that's not a bird!' After our visit to Carlsbad Caverns and the bridge in Austin, we finally get to see a bat in the Safeway in Carlsbad?! I hope the poor thing got out okay. Joe is still unshaved at this point -- I've taken to calling him my fuzzband!
Mileage: 1404.3

Day 6 (Thurs. July 4): This morning we got up earlyish and breakfasted at the hotel to save time. Then we were off to Mesa Verde. Our first stop after entering the park was Park Point elevation (at 8572 ft). You could see views all around the park and supposedly to Shiprock and other points distant, but with all the fires in the region, our views were limited by the smoke. Joe enjoyed taking out the binoculars anyway and scoping out what he could see from that height. From there we headed over to the Far View Visitor's Center to find out what we could see that day. Chapin Mesa was still closed due to the risk of fire. Fire is a very dangerous thing at the park due to the narrow roads that travel a long distance into the park. Were a fire to start there while tourists were at the Cliff Palace at Chapin Mesa, they would be stranded. And so we got our tickets to the Long House tour on Weatherill Mesa so we could see the other large cliff dwelling in the park. Cliff Palace is more famous, but Long House has as many rooms (150) and only 2 less kivas. We were still a little early so we stopped in at the Gift Shop to stock up on postcards, fridge magnets (you should see our fridge!) and the like and then to the cafeteria for some lunch.

When we got to Weatherill Mesa, (taking the park bus so we could sit back and gawk without running off a cliff) we took one of the walks on the Mesa and headed over to a trail to overlook of Nordenskiöld #16 Ruin. The trail guide to the overlook tells of the abundant trees and wildlife, but when you actually walk it, there isn't that much anymore due to a fire in 2000?

First stop @ Park Point elevation: 8572 for views all around (though obscured by smoke).

Mesa Verde

Up to Far View Visitor's Center for tickets for @ Weatherill Mesa.
Gift shops & Lunch. 45 min bus ride to Wetherill on schoolbus. Walked to Trail to overlook of Nurdenskiöld #16 Ruin. Very cool. Then tram to Long House Trail. 120 ft. down to ruin: tour led by Lisa Kenyon. She told us that the fractured rock was caused by heat of fire & called 'spalling'. The plantlife are oaks (called Gambrel Oak), Prickly Pear cacti & yucca, Juniper & Piñon Pine also fed Ancestral Puebloans.
Saw seep spring, (shaly conglomerate between layers of sandstone) swifts & mourning doves. Long House 2nd largest in Mesa Verde & so 2nd largest in NA. Only 2 kivas less than Cliff Palace: both 150 rooms. Probably not all occupied ~ maybe 25 families for control over water & stored food. Took tram to Badger House walk ~ with annoying (to the nth degree) boy, Zachary. Ugh. Tram back to main Wetherhill area. Walked down (down, down) to step house. Nice older (tolerant) ranger & white trash family (asking ranger questions from the guide, stating that ancestral pueblo people bad artists!!). Back up (ugh!) & bus back to far view.
Dinner @ MSB - Mrs Heavyfoot not our waitress tonight (very nice but clogs on a wooden floor?). More yummy beer: Boomeranq & Honey Raspberry Wheat, Joe: Brown Ale & Crystal Wheat. Quesadilla starter (yum) & Joe: Trout (he really liked) & me: Supreme Pepperoni Pizza - delish. Could only eat 1 piece 'cause had to have dessert-Chocolate Raspberry blast! Yowza! Got picture w/ Rudy. Laundry & organizing.
Mileage: 1454.7

http://www.nps.gov/meve/fire/

Day 7(Friday - 4 States Day!):
Up @ 8, shower etc. & pack car (fill ice chest). Breakfast @ hotel & off. Hwy 666/160 - 160
4 Corners monument. Navajo Nation w/ lots of artists & kiosks. Bought t-shirts & postcards + my first new charm in ages. 160 - 191 (to Mexican Hat). Stopped @ Mexican Hat for pee/ice-cream break. stop in Monument valley for pictures, lunch is leftover pizza in car. 163 - 98 to Page. From Page to Kanab 89 - 89 Alt. through Vermillion Cliffs National Monument. Stop @ Soap Creek for photos: 'Those rocks rocked!!'. Dust devil!!
Behind slow-poke Winnebago w/ car in tow in Kaibab as approach hwy 67 to Grand Canyon. 'take the turnoff. You love the GC. These are not the droids you're looking for.'
89 - 14 to Cedar City. Thru Dixie Nat'l Forest.
Mileage: 1907
Dinner @ Sullivan's Steak House ~ Beautiful filet mignons!
Called Leah, Treasure Island to book for Sun night, ans. machine, & Mom.

San Antonio |Ottawa | New Orleans* | Newfoundland
BC 2001 | Vegas Baby!

*coming soon

Last Updated: 020823