"Operant learning" is the way you will be teaching your dog to learn:

The technical explanation?  It occurs when the dog understands that the behaviors of an operator (the dog, in this case) have an effect on the environment.  The dog sits (the behavior) and it is marked (the click) and rewarded - therefore increasing the likelihood the behavior will occur again.  There is a behavior - a operation - which has occurred and changed the situation.  You are applying operant conditioning - rewarding certain operations (behaviors) and ignoring others. 

What the heck does that mean?  You are the gumball machine that the dog must operate in order to get a treat.  He may not understand why you work the way you do, but he will soon gain a certain skill to make you work!

The contrast is Pavlovian, which might be thought of as reflex.  Ring a bell, the dog drools.  He doesn't consciously drool to get fed; he doesn't consciously think, "last time I drooled, I got fed, so I think I'll drool again."  It *is* a conditioning; one is operant and one is Pavlovian because one is a conscious action of the dog to gain something, the other is a reflex.

This class will introduce you to the theory and practice of operant conditioning using a clicker to mark desired behavior.  You will learn to use a few simple tools rather than memorize rote routines.  You will learn to recognize that "behaviors are just behaviors," not intrinsically good or bad.  If you don't like the one being offered, you can define another and train it instead.

The nice thing about clicker training is that the only limitations are the dog's physical capabilities and the trainer's ability -- and training ability can be taught.  Timing and observation, which are extremely important here, are skills which can be learned.  Students will learn to chain complex behaviors from basic responses and to create a training plan.

For the students who want to do more training with their dogs, the next step is learning to take full advantage of the clicker, learning how to shape, and to track sessions/errors/ progress/etc.  Many people don't realize that basic obedience classes cannot possibly train their dogs in six, seven or eight weeks.  Getting the dog to sit several times isn't the same as having a trained sit; getting a behavior fully trained involves generalization and distraction training, which students will be introduced to in this class.

Some people stop right here and ask a few pointed questions: 

"So,  I have to train with food for the rest of my life?"
 No, you don't.  In training sessions, you use the clicker and food to reinforce behavior, but once a response or chain of responses is established, it is put on cue and the click/food faded out. A verbal reward or pat is then used for everyday use or competition.  Just as you continue to use a lead and lead pops in traditional training sessions, so you use clicker and treats in operant training sessions.

"Do I have to train everything twice -- once by capturing or shaping a behavior, and once again with a word or gesture?"
No.  With operant conditioning methods, you capture or shape (click a behavior as it happens or when the dog comes close to the response you want) a response or chain of responses, then label it when it is complete, rather than assuming your dog speaks English and "commanding" it up front then physically helping the dog into the desired position.  However, it's a short and seamless process.  An experienced trainer can capture a simple behavior in an untrained dog and put it on cue in short order -- often less than 30 minutes from the first click to the cued behavior.  Of course, as with any method of training, you will have to reinforce that first session   to make sure the response is solid.  A more complicated behavior chain such as the retrieve (up to twenty or thirty steps!) might take a week of concentrated effort with an unknown or distractible dog.

"What happens if I don't have a clicker or food with me?  Will my dog ignore me?"
In the training stages this can happen, especially if your timing has been a little slow, or your powers of observation are still developing.  Your dog is as likely to start "throwing" behaviors at you: sitting, lying down, standing, offering tricks you've trained, etc -- this is the superstitious behavior of a novice, happy dog who isn't afraid to try new things.  It's a good thing, because it means that your dog is learning to think about what will work.  You can select from among those many behaviors the ones you want, to help your dog understand which word or signal goes with which action.

"How can my dog tell which is "his" clicker in a class?"
If you switch clickers with another trainer, there is a small chance that your dog will glance in that direction once or twice, but it's more likely that because your dog is paying close attention to you, trying to figure out what will make you click and treat,  he will concentrate on only you.  Even in a gathering when several dozen clickers are going off at once, the vast majority of dogs only focus on their handlers.

• Classes begin the first Tuesday of each month.
• First session of each class is 2 hours long, without dogs.
• Weekday classes consist of  7 additional one-hour sessions, offered twice a week for four weeks.
• Saturday classes are offered if there is sufficient demand; they are 1.5 hours long and  run for five weeks.
• $80 per class includes handouts, clickers and sample treats.
• Dogs must wear flat collars.  Premier collars or martingale collars are preferred; use and fitting will be demonstrated during the first class.  If you feel that your dog cannot be controlled without a slip or prong collar, email me to discuss alternatives.
• Handlers are encouraged to bring high value treats such as minced boiled chicken, diced hotdogs, freeze-dried or boiled liver, Charlee Bears, or peanut butter in a small lidded pill case.  Kibble or regular dog food not encouraged!