Introduction

I will list how I care for my swords. This is a guide on care/maintenance and cannot be considered a guide to restoration. While certain swords will benefit greatly from good care, it is by no means a substitution to restoration. The tips listed are intended for a sword already in good condition. I will not cover cleaning, as I feel that certain aspects cannot easily be understood without seeing them first hand. Even such a term that is commonly used, as patina is very difficult to explain without seeing what is patina in the first place. Many have a difficult time discerning between patina and old dirt. In photos it is often hard to tell, but first hand the difference is like night and day.

Maintenance Thoughts and Tips

Dramatic temperature changes as well as humidity changes can be very detrimental to both the organic and non-organic materials that make up a Moro sword. Controlling these factors will lead to extended life, and ease in maintenance. I am not suggesting that you go out and equip your home with thousands of dollars worth of machinery. Of course that would be ideal, but most of us do not have the kind of funds to make our homes into a mini-Smithsonian.

For those of us living in less than ideal humidity (such as Minnesota), investment in a de-humidifier for humid summers and a humidifier in dry winters will alleviate many problems that may arise due to humidity changes. These things can easily be gotten at any local hardware store and are now relatively inexpensive to purchase. If you are un-comfortable with the humidity levels then your swords are as well. However don’t force rapid changes in humidity, but instead try maintain constant comfortable levels. Remember in winter most heaters will cause humidity levels to drop, and in summer cooler air retains less moisture than warmer. This is a common practice for those who own antique instruments to prevent cracking of wood.

Again try and keep the temperature where your swords are kept at a constant level. This is a simple matter of turning the heat on when it gets cold, and the air-conditioning when it is hot. It’s not rocket-science, but simple basic common sense. It’s also a great excuse to stay comfortable at home.

I have heard a myth that Moro Swords do not need oiling since their etching will keep them from rusting. I must stress that this is a completely untrue myth. I have found no written reference to back up this myth, and in my own experience, as well as the experiences of numerous other collectors, a Moro sword will rust just as easily as any other steel object. In actuality I have found, as well as other collectors, that an etched sword will be more prone to rust. While constant humidity will go a long way in preventing rust, it is still necessary to either oil or wax your sword. When oiling you sword use a good oil such as pure mineral oil, cednana oil, breakfree clip, or choji oil. However, you must check your swords periodically as even the best oils will eventually dry up and/or become gummy. Dust can also penetrate the protective barrier of the oil, so your sword should be periodically cleaned of old oil and then re-oiled. I suggest a minimum of at least once a month, if not more. A good wax such as Renaissance wax provides longer lasting protection and is used in many museums/larger collections where maintenance cannot be given on a monthly basis. However again I would suggest some periodic inspection. For organic materials Renaissance wax can be used as well. For my swords for the parts made of wood I use a violin polish that is made of linseed oil, natural turpentine, and tung oil. This polish has been used to maintain 300+ year old violins worth many thousands of dollars so I figure it is good enough for my swords. However lemon oil is a good alternative as it will still nourish and protect.

One thing to remember is that you are only a temporary custodian of your sword. With proper maintenance it will last to be enjoyed for generations. Please do not neglect your swords.